THE CRUISE OF THE 
POKT KINGSTON 



THE CRUISE OF THE 
PORT KINGSTON 

BY 

W. RALPH HALL CAINE 



LONDON 

COLLIER & CO. 

2 TDDOR STREET, E.G. 
1908 



Tfcw volume enjoys copyright 
in all countries signatory 
to the Berne Treaty, and is 
not to be imported into the 
United States of America 




o 



WY 1 4 1934 



PREFACE 

THE pages of this book are divided into four definite 
sections. Those sections deal with history, com- 
merce, religion, and the social relations. * 

Our Cruise had Kingston for its ultimate point. 
Jamaica, therefore, is the chief concern of my 
narrative. 

There have been many books about the West 
Indies. Taken together they represent a library 
of considerable size. Jamaica figures largely in all. 
Some of the books I have read with care, at most 
I have at all events glanced, and all, or nearly so, 
1 have found worthy of attention, every writer 
garnering some sheaves worthy of a place in the 
storehouse of our accumulated information. 

I have not, however, chanced upon one in the 
whole group, telling the plain tale of life as it is, as 
it was presented to my own wondering eyes, as it 
was presented to me through the eyes of those who 
have made in the West Indies a life-long residence, 
and whose knowledge is as deep and profound as 
is their affection for the home of their birth or 
adoption. 

In some of the books which I critically examined, 
with a view of discovering if I had anything to say 
that had not been said a thousand times already, 
I remarked with some measure of astonishment 
how one book had been written out of others, how 
an accidental error in one is put forward as an 
historic fact to the generation next succeeding. 



PREFACE 

The contribution of 100,000 when Napoleon 
threatened our peace is shown to be 1,000,000, 
and the so-called " Rebellion " of 1865 is occa- 
sionally dealt with in a way that would suggest 
that no authority but a British Government yield- 
ing to popular clamour would have hesitated to 
reinstate Mr. Eyre in the office of Governor. 
Public memory must be indeed short when the 
findings of a Court of Inquiry of unimpeachable 
integrity can be so readily obscured. 

Of a more recent episode in Jamaican history it 
so chanced that I should have some direct and 
personal knowledge. Once more was a British 
Government accused of yielding to popular clamour, 
as expressed this time in journals like the Times 
and Daily Telegraph, who spoke in their leading 
columns with an earnestness, force, and dignity 
befitting the urgency of the occasion. Yet 
critics were not wanting ready to charge the 
Imperial authority with the crime of tendering an 
apology where one should have been exacted. 

Beyond the cable I had occasion to send from 
Kingston shortly after the earthquake, I have taken 
no part in the public discussions that have fitfully 
taken place round the details of the international 
episode alluded to. If I have yielded to the 
temptation now of setting down the facts as I 
understood them on the spot, and at the time, and 
in personal contact with certain of the chief figures 
in the historic incident as it was then in process of 
formation, I have done so with no other object 
than that of once and for all clearing from the 
public mind (so far as lies within my power) any 
suspicion of wrong or misconception. 

Thus much I have felt to be my plain duty as 
between man and man, nation and nation. Yet I 
would not urge any mere excuse of that kind, 

vi 



PREFACE 

laudable as it might be made to appear. More 
than half the unhappiness of the world is due to 
acts prompted by a mistaken sense of duty, and 
few of us in the long run fail to realise that 
elementary fragment of wisdom. I have tried 
therefore, deeply and profoundly as my sympathies 
were touched at the time, to blot out of my nar- 
rative any unnecessary or acrimonious word. It is 
no part of my purpose to give pain. It is no part 
of my purpose to colour or extenuate any wrong. 

History is the lesson of experience, the gift of 
prophecy. My book begins with history and ends 
with history. It begins with history because in 
that way alone can we get at the heart of things and 
understand the religious and spirit life of the native, 
untrammelled by 'any prior prejudices of our own. 
Kingsley, I remember, was deeply interested in 
the subject. But his robust faith admitted of no 
serious effort to appreciate the exact quality of the 
barbaric rites he was privileged on one occasion at 
least to be a witness of, and it is not remarkable 
that in that one instance he should have lapsed 
into confusion and error. 

Obeahism and Voodooism were to Kingsley so 
much chaotic jumble. The time, however, has 
long since gone when we can afford to pass over 
all these manifestations of belief in single, double, 
or black magic and serpent-worship as unworthy 
of attention and careful examination. Behind all 
these rites we have the deep well-springs of human 
emotions, a craving on the part of mere mortals to 
realise spirit life, to influence or control the terrify- 
ing powers of darkness. With these traits, hopeful 
in their main essence as I claim them all to be, we 
must assuredly lay our account in our self-appointed 
task of up-lifting the negro race. 

I do not consider, therefore, any time misspent 

vii 



PREFACE 

that has been devoted to the effort of understanding 
the dark influences that lurk behind the negro's 
mental vision, to understanding what serpent wor- 
ship really is among the transplanted people of the 
West Indies, what are its rites, what is its purpose, 
what is the kind of god, if any, they would thus 
propitiate. 

In this way alone are we enabled to appreciate 
the attitude of mind of that part of the negro 
family which, while accepting Christianity with a 
gladsome heart and every evidence of sincere con- 
viction, still retains beliefs that link it at one step 
to the wild, untamed, sacrificial orgies of the West 
African forest. 

The legends and traditions of the negro race are 
so full of coincidences as to show that certain of 
our most common superstitions had with theirs a 
common ancestry. But, however that may be, they 
help us too to realise the curious and indeed 
remarkable social relations that prevail at this hour. 
Problems of race, tradition, and religion have sprung 
up in bewildering profusion, until now one-fourth 
of the entire population of Jamaica may be classed 
as "coloured" as distinct from "black." This is 
one of the most saddening features of all West 
Indian life. It represents an offence to our own 
race, a wrong to the other, a pain to-day, and an 
ugly foreboding. 

In England itself there is an appalling lack of 
intelligence rather than refined feeling on the sub- 
ject. We are content to receive the negro in our 
universities, our medical schools, and inns of court. 
There he imbibes the worst of all possible lessons 
a contempt for his own people. By a not un- 
natural process of educational evolution it becomes 
his ambition to marry an English girl, and, worse 
luck! he of lighter tinge usually succeeds in his 

viii 



PREFACE 

purpose. The overwhelming sorrow of these ill- 
assorted unions, the bitter, burning tears of the 
English girl in her social isolation and physical 
abasement, the unhappy legacy of such unions to 
succeeding generations, are sometimes passed over 
with a shrug of the shoulders and the remark, 
" One of the prices of empire, I suppose." There 
the question is allowed to rest. 

But these pages will not have been written in 
vain if in centres like London, Bristol, Liverpool, 
Glasgow, and Edinburgh, where " black " and 
" coloured " students of law and medicine most do 
congregate, I have succeeded in producing a clearer 
apprehension of physical facts as they are, a healthier 
aversion to degrading taint, and yet at the same 
time, in all charity let me add, a truer and more 
proper pride on the part of the negro himself in his 
own history and blood and service to the world, a 
higher appreciation of the ancestry of his own race, 
with its immemorial instincts, at once gentle, 
generous, and sincere. 

From the moving episodes described in the latter 
part of my narrative a year now separates us. A 
paternal Government has made a grant and offered 
a liberal loan. A grant is easily distributed, but 
the loan could only be advanced to those provided 
with guarantees as to security. Few there be, alas ! 
in Kingston to-day, who can meet this imperative 
condition. 

Meanwhile the city lies in ruins, very much as 
we left it. The warfare with the insurance com- 
panies goes on apace. A local corporation settled 
its claims on a 30 per cent, basis, but the English 
companies, on the strength of the plain words of 
their policies, which relieved them from all liability 
from fire caused by earthquake, have resisted all 
compromise. 

ix 



PREFACE 

In the trials which have resulted in Jamaica, 
juries have found on evidence that fire preceded the 
earthquake. In that event it would seem that the 
companies are liable wherever the earthquake left 
a structure in an insurable state before it was 
reached by the flames. Questions of fact and 
questions of law arise in such a multiplicity of 
detail as to keep the lawyers busy for many a day. 
I believe the issue will be subjected to a further 
test, on appeal, or, in the alternative, on a fresh 
trial, if, as I have half a suspicion, a question of 
fact is not open to appeal to the law courts at 
home. May justice be done. 

My final word is that Kingston is not Jamaica, 
and that no visitor from England or America need 
hesitate to pack up his traps and make off straight- 
way to this land of luxurious warmth and temper- 
ing breezes. I speak with an affection born of a 
kindly remembrance when I add that a generous 
welcome awaits all who come among the people of 
Jamaica white, black, or coloured with love and 
charity in their hearts, willing to be entertained 
and amused, and ready to glow with admiration 
and appreciation over scenery of unrivalled tropical 
beauty and sport which, in certain of its features 
at all events, cannot be excelled in the whole of 
the wide world. 

W. R. H. C. 

December 20, 1907 



CONTENTS 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 

Sir Alfred Jones his anticipations for the voyage a drive through 
London departure of the " Avonmouth and West Indies Special" 
from Paddington " valedictions " hospitality of Sir Alfred Jones 
the questionable comforts of a " steamer train " welcome on board 
Dr. Neville Williams the Port Kingston stands out to sea rumour that 
the captain wanted time in hand for contingencies and was pushing her 
slackening speed a leisurely yachting cruise children on board 
my imaginative and chatty little friend the lonely sea wanted a book 
with " killing in it " or a real hero in love with a beautiful princess in 
a dungeon 1 Pp. 1-7 



II 
GUESTS AND FELLOW-PASSENGERS 

Sir Alfred Jones his personality and popularity Lord and Lady Dudley 
Mr. Arnold-Forster, M.P. Mr. J. Henniker Heaton, M.P., and his 
work in Post Office reform Mr. Jesse Collings, M.P., and his book Sir 
Oliver Lodge Mr. W. Howell Davies, M.P. Sir Thomas Hughes of 
Liverpool Mr. Alderman Adnitt of Northampton The Hon. Evelyn 
Ellis Viscount Mountmorres and his book on the Congo Mr. William 
Cleaver and his recollections of Lord Wolseley Mr. Charles Lancaster 
Captain J. E. Mackenzie Mr. Alexander Crum-Ewing Mr. James 
Lawrence Lieut. Ward Captain W. W. Rhodes Mr. A. McDowell 
Nathan Mr. Ralph Sidebottom Mr. E. Bicker-Caarten Mr. J. 
Arthur Hutton Mr. E. Lomas Oliver Mr. Tod Mr. F. Swanzy 
Mr. H. Cotterell Mr. C. H. Rugg Mr. M. C. Solomon Mr. H. 
Berger Mr. A. Pawsey Mr. A. N. Dixon Mr. H. J. Rudolph Mr. 
P. G. Austin Mr. Lloyd Owen Mr. Picton Hughes-Jones Sir Hudson 
Kinahan, Bart. Mrs. James Lawrence Mrs. A. A. Pearson Mrs. J. 
A. Hutton Miss Armitage the Hon. Mrs. Sidney Trench Miss 
Crum-Ewing Mrs. Ward Miss Bles Miss Leigh Miss Mabel Coul- 
born Miss Margaret A. Rae Miss Landale Miss Carter. Sports 
on deck Bridge always in season Pp. 8-16 

xi 



CONTENTS 

in 

BARBADOS COTTON, SUNSHINE AND SHADOW 

The Port Kingston reaches Barbados a first sight of Bridgetown my 
chatty little friend again dreams of gory fights and wild Indians 
with tomahawks an early meeting in the House of Assembly the 
Hon. F. J. Clarke, M.C.P., as Chairman Sir Daniel Morris speaks 
presentation of gold medals by Sir Alfred Jones some good yields in 
cotton the Antigua and Nevis awards heat of Bridgetown black- 
faces "if it isn't the sun?" I am demolished new passengers 
departure from Bridgetown Harbour " man overboard I "one of 
life's dramas the boat returns lost the sense of submission the 
Angel of Death passed her finger over the waters . . Pp. 17-24 



IV 
HISTORY : (I) JAMAICA : SPANISH SETTLEMENT 

Discovery of the island by Columbus Washington Irving's description in 
" Life and Voyages of Christopher Columbus" peoples of Jamaica 
account by Peter Martyr the Caribs Sir S. D. Scott his "To Ja- 
maica and Back " Spanish methods of extermination peaceful policy 
of Columbus, Diego and Esquiros anecdotes from Arthur Helps's 
" Spanish Conquest in America" scene between King Ferdinand and 
the Dominican Father Antonio how Jamaica "fell into the pos- 
session of the English Seeley's description . Pp. 25-29 



HISTORY : (II) ENGLISH COLONISATION 

Condition of Jamaica on the advent of the English hunting of the 
Maroons with bloodhounds Seventeenth-century plantation manners 
the buccaneers Sir Henry Morgan early Governors of the Colony 
Colonel D'Oyley Lord Windsor Sir Thomas Modiford General 
Bannister his present to Lord Arlington Lord Windsor summons 
the popular assembly attempted restrictions under Lord Carlisle 
Sir Thomas Lynch the Duke of Albemarle Sir Hans Sloane his 
botanical researches invasion of Jamaica by Du Casse John Benbow 
the Great Earthquake of June 1692 Scott's account of the ruin of 
Port Royal loss of the official documents and records of the island 
the seat of commerce shifted to Kingston invasion of Jamaica by 
Count de Grasse Rodney's victory his statue at Spanish Town 
the work of colonisationSpain's failure England's blunders her 
" West Indian Period ". . . , , . . Pp. 30-37 

xii 



CONTENTS 

VI 
HISTORY : (III) SLAVERY 

Decay of slavery in England Dr. Ingram on the system of colonial 
slavery England's part in the slave trade slaves of the Spanish 
mines Treaty of Utrecht the Asiento granted to Great Britain 
trade done by English ports in slaves European " factories " on the 
African coasts Dr. Ingram's article in the "Encyclopaedia Britannica" 
mortality among the slaves inequality in the numbers of the sexes 
condition of the slave his hopeless existence Bridges's " Annals 
of Jamaica "punishments under the Code Sloane's " Voyages etc." 
quoted treatment of the female slave marriage conditions the lot 
of the West Indian and West African slave compared descendants 
of Irish and Scottish warriors in Barbados value of the negro to the 
planter death by burning advocates of Freedom the Abolition 
Bill of 1807 the apprenticeship system cost of compensation 

Pp. 38-46 



VII 

HISTORY: (IV) REBELLION "EXIT THE 
OLD CONSTITUTION 

Governor Eyre causes of the rebellion Gardner's account the House 
of Assembly its lessened reputation grievances of the emancipated 
negroes G. W. Gordon his connection with the outbreak death of 
Baron Ketelhodt martial law proclaimed punishments by Colonel 
Hobbs and Captain Hole trial and death of Gordon reception of 
the news in England the special commission of inquiry report of 
the commissioners punishments " excessive " the punishment of 
death " unnecessarily frequent " flogging "reckless" "barbarous" 
Mr. Cardwell's despatch in reply to the report Governor Eyre is not 
restored to the Governorship Sir John Peter Grant succeeds him 
Jamaica virtually becomes a Crown Colony ... Pp. 47-51 



VIII 
NOTABLE BOOKS, AND SOME OTHERS 

Books on Jamaica in the British Museum MSS. of Long's Histories 
Richard Hakluyt's "Divers Voyages, etc." and "The Principall Navi- 
gations," etc. Histories of Jamaica Vernon's " New History of 
Jamaica" Long's "History" Bryan Edwards's "History of the 
West Indies" Bridges's "Annals of Jamaica * Carlyle's "The 
Nigger Question" Gardner's "History "Arthur Helps's "Spanish 
Conquest in America " and other works Washington Irving's " Life 
and Voyages of Christopher Columbus " record of missions and 
mission work in Jamaica Carlile's story by "One of his Sons" 

xiii 



CONTENTS 

Moravian missionaries books on the natural history of Jamaica 
Gosse's "Journal of a Naturalist in Jamaica" and "Birds of Jamaica" 
sundry volumes Mr. Alfred Chichele Plowden's "Grain and Chaff" 
novelists and romancers Mr. Alfred Caldecott's "English Coloni- 
sation and Empire " Prof. J. B. Seeley's " Our Colonial Expansion " 
Froude's "English in the West Indies" his inaccuracies Mr. Frank 
Cundall his bibliography of Jamaica Grant Allen Mr. Frankfort 
Moore Miss Dolf Wyllarde G. D. de Montmorency's " A Memory of 
the Old Slave Days " . Pp. 52-61 



IX 
A MIXED MARRIAGE 

Effect of the climate of Jamaica on the complexion and carriage of an 
Englishwoman a fiancee on board the love-story of an English girl 
and her lover of sombre skin their reunion at Kingston the girl's 
consternation on beholding her future husband's dark relations she 
bravely shakes their black hands the matter of luggage and Customs 
examination the " brotherhood " of the black man as taught, and in 
practice position of the coloured man and his wife in Jamaican 
society the hastened wedding ceremony the honeymoon at Port 
Antonio a glimpse of Paradise our English rose more beautiful 
than ever she seems to hesitate a chastening sorrow that knows 
no end questions that find no words "Why this conspiracy of 
silence ? " a wife's fears a gaiety more touching and pathetic than 
tears Pp. 62-67 



COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES : (I) THE LAND 
OF THE BANANA 

Agriculture a means of making a fortune in Jamaica success of the 
planter dependent upon his methods evil effects of the Jamaica 
climate on English and Creole constitutions a mild fever which 
attacks new-comers bad reputation of West Indies due to high rate 
of mortality among the white troops conditions which cause this 
high rate sanitation of Kingston mosquitoes a cause of malarial 
fever evil reputation of Port Koyal the burden of the water tax 
Kingston's immunity from disease fertility of Jamaica long training 
unnecessary for the planter London men who beome planters the 
"Handbook" as a source of information schemes of Sir Daniel 
Morris, K.C.M.G., D.Sc., to aid the planter with the results of his 
scientific knowledge Barbados, the headquarters of Sir Daniel Morris 
Honourable Francis Watts, C.M.G., D.Sc. return published by 
the Revenue Department for year ending March 1905, showing the 
proportion of acreage devoted to the several commercial products of 
Jamaica report of the Honourable A. H. Miles, Collector-General of 
Jamaica, for year ending March 31, 1906 Customs Imports Exports 
trade of United Kingdom and United States with Jamaica the 

xiv 



CONTENTS 

trade in fruit effect of the abolition of the bounties on the sugar 
trade depreciation in the quality of the banana bananas of Puerto 
Rico the quantity of bananas exported cattle-raising Pp. 68-75 



XI 

COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES: (II) SUGAR 
AND COTTON 

History of the sugar-cane mentioned by Herodotus Sanskrit origin of 
the word brought by the Crusaders from Syria carried by the 
Moors into Spain and by the Spaniards into the West Indies raising 
from seed reproduction by cuttings experiments of Sir Daniel Morris 
with the seedling canes hints for the planter the new Canadian 
tariff on sugar the preferences to British grown sugar continued 
the manufacture of beet sugar a hindrance to the development of the 
industry Napoleon's prize Chaptal's manufacture of beet sugar 
the Continental system of sugar bounties another hindrance effect of 
the abolition of the bounties Sir Edward Grey's announcement con- 
cerning the Brussels Convention increase of acreage given to cultiva- 
tion of fruit future of lime juice present loss of citric acid rice 
rubber in Tobago and Trinidad experiment in tobacco opinion of 
Sir Daniel Morris concerning a blend of Jamaican and Virginian leaf 
Jamaica tea the demand for Cassava starch a list of dessert 
fruits of Jamaica and their prices Jamaica vegetables cotton grow- 
ing ousted by the sugar industry reversion of the position Mr. 
James Lawrence of Chorley superiority of Sea Island cotton effect 
of the war between North and South on the cotton trade effect of 
syndicates establishment of the British Cotton Growing Association 
Sir Alfred Jones objects of the Association West Indian industry 
re-opened under auspices of the Department of Agriculture and this 
Association value and amount of exports in lint and seed since 1902 
views of Sir A. Jones and Mr. J. A. Hutton Sir Wm. H. Holland, 
M.P. returns for years 1903 to 1907 from the Agricultural News 
work of the British Cotton Growing Association in finding a market 

Pp. 76-83 



XII 

COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES: (III) SETTLERS 
WANTED 

Capital required for cultivation of cotton advice of Sir Daniel Morris to 
prospective settlers plantations of the Honourable Henry Cork on the 
Rio Grande cost of residence on a plantation the cost and reward 
of a 50-acre plantation extent of unoccupied Crown lands in Jamaica 
Barbuda facilities for growing cotton on the Leeward Islands 
available land in Antigua St. Kitts unoccupied land in Nevis cost 
of rent and labour profits on the sugar industry cost of growing the 
canes per ton proportion of cane to the sugar yield rum as a by-pro- 
duct of the sugar industry coffee of the Blue Mountains of Jamaica 

XV 



CONTENTS 

the yearly output suitable land for growing coffee at a shilling per acre 
climate of the Blue Mountains steady price of Blue Mountain coffee 
the answers to Lord Rosebery's complaint tobacco-growing in Ja- 
maica every facility ready for the grower deterioration of the 
Havana cigar banana cultivation danger of its too rapid advance 
capital required prices paid to the planter by the United Fruit Com- 
pany of Boston story of the United Fruit Company Captain Baker's 
venture Messrs. Elders & Fyffe of Covent Garden a glowing prospect 
for the grower the fruit trade Jamaica rum coffee tobacco 
Cassava starch cotton growing demand for Sea Island cotton goods 
rubber photographs by Mr. Noel B. Walker . . .Pp. 84-90 



XIII 

THE RELIGIOUS AND SPIRIT LIFE OF THE NATIVE: 
(I) A MODERN MESSIAH 

Proportion of blacks and whites in the population of Jamaica in 1673 
divisions of the population in 1837 decrease in the number of whites 
increase in the number of coloured people and blacks the problem 
of government chiefly concerned with the native the Chinese element 
in Kingston irresponsibility of the native in Jamaica "Quashie " 
sympathy wasted on the " poor benighted blacks " an illustration of 
native laziness old folk-tales the negro's love of sound his anger 
against theft his love of the Christian hymns the women's work 
lightened by hymn-singing the Bedwardites of Hope River story of 
Alexander Bedward his influence at Port Limon question of his 
personality belief of the Bedwardites in the miraculous healing 
properties of the waters of Hope River Bedward a " Free Baptist " 
his sale of the waters of Hope River arrest of Bedward failure of 
the charge against him his release establishment of Bedwardism at 
Kingston . . - . . . . . . , .Pp. 91-96 



XIV 

THE RELIGIOUS AND SPIRIT LIFE OF THE NATIVE: 
(II) THE BEDWARDITE BAPTISM 

Description of Bedward and his wife a neighbour's account of Bedward's 
doctrine his claim for the power of the water the monthly baptismal 
ceremony procession of the congregation from Kingston dress of 
the converts ritual of the ceremony fees for the communion service 
the great feast and service of January 13, 1907 the assembling of 
the congregation on the eve of the feast scene on the early Sunday 
morning Bedward his appearance and his influence the "dipping" 
process the service a travesty of the Christian rite scenes after the 
Baptism Mrs. Bedward's office subsequent service in the Free 
Baptist Church, August Town return of the congregation to Kingston 
another immense gathering Bedward's cynical interest in white 
converts his way with unruly members of the congregation a 
disturbance averted Pp. 97-102 

xvi 



CONTENTS 

xv 

THE RELIGIOUS AND SPIRIT LIFE OF THE NATIVE: 
(III) CHILDREN IN MIND 

Missions and missionaries West Indian Convention of Seventh Day 
Adventists in Kingston tenets of Adventism work of the Church of 
England Archbishop Nuttall, his "memorandum" his inclusion of 
the black as well as the coloured native in the priesthood the Rev. 
C. C. Douce his tact and success the black man's faith, a religion of 
ceremony and show his evil propensities Sunday morning in a West 
Indian village the negro's love of dress the woman's love of colour 
preference for white among the women of Barbados . Pp. 103-107 



XVI 

THE RELIGIOUS AND SPIRIT LIFE OF THE NATIVE: 
(IV) THE FIRST COMMUNION 

Solemnity of a first communion in a French village vanity of the child 
of Jamaica the priest's hopeless task experience of a father in St. 
Lucia the negro's religion as a means of social distinction influence 
of his former superstitions worldliness of some London congregations 
the negro's sensuous exaltation his propensity for stealing device 
of a pastor for discovery of a thief the Church's struggle against 
polygamy Pp. 108-111 



XVII 

THE RELIGIOUS AND SPIRIT LIFE OF THE NATIVE: 
(V) A WEST INDIAN WAKE 

Death superstitions in Jamaica the calf with the dangling chain customs 
observed in the cabin of the dead man prolonged singing of hymns 
the interment customs attending the burial the Ninth Day Feast 
compared with an Irish wake pacification of the "duppy " ritual of 
the Bella-Bella or Jumbi dance efforts of the Government to suppress 
these dances the function begun by the hostess wild music and 
frenzied movements the hostess visits the grave of the " duppy" 
killing of the black cock Kingsley's "At Last "his description of 
the Jumbi dance the use of a fetish mot employed in any rite of 
Obeahism distinction in ritual superstitions attached to the silk 
cotton tree the natives' fear, of cutting one down legend of the 
" duppies " the "little people" of Jamaica Manx and Norwegian 
^ superstitions . . . . . . . . Pp. 112-117 

xvii b 



CONTENTS 



XVIII 

THE RELIGIOUS AND SPIRIT LIFE OF THE NATIVE: 
(VI) THE LEGEND OF THE D1ABLESSE 

Mamadjo of the silk cotton tree her appearance peace offering to Ma- 
madjo " Hags " and their " Sabbats " loogaroo superstitions habits 
of the loogaroo means of defeating the vampire derivation of 
" Nancy " a " Nancy story " Norwegian superstitions the legend 
of Huldren legend of the DiaUesse the supposed duppy of a child 
her captivation of the lonely wanderer " Fair Maids " of the West 
Indies Celtic folklore spells the "Arabian Nights" "command- 
ing " the spirit story of the Rolling Calf influence of Obeahism on 
the native opinion of a Roman father . . . Pp. 118-123 

XIX 

THE RELIGIOUS AND SPIRIT LIFE OF THE NATIVE : 
(VII) OBEAHISM 

West African element in the population of Jamaica derivation of the 
term " Obeah" the serpent-worship of Egypt the Honourable Hes- 
keth J. Bell his book quoted Max Miiller 'quoted derivation of the 
term "Voodoo" the two sects of Voodooism ritual of the Vodun 
ritual of the Vidu Mr. Livingstone's " Black Jamaica " description 
of the Obeahman his powers his implements practice of poisoning 
employed by him his hold on the people the Obeahman often only 
an imbecile negro the temple of Obeah the ritual the white 
planters' use of Obeahism the effect on the negro Obeahism turned 
on the white planter indications of the condemnation Pagan super- 
stitions and Christian faith commingled in the black native the 
experience of a Baptist missionary .... Pp. 124-129 



XX 

THE RELIGIOUS AND SPIRIT LIFE OF THE NATIVE : 
(VIII) A VOODOO CANNIBALISTIC FEAST 

Serpent-worship in the West Indian islands experience of a resident of 
Granada procession to the Grand Etang secrecy as to its ultimate 
object order of the procession propitiation of Mamadjo a descrip- 
tion of the sacrifice artifices of the native to keep secret his voodoo- 
istic superstitions Voodoo worship in Hayti a law above the law 
death of Cora Geffard the two sects of Voodooism rites of the two 
sects serpent worship in Hayti a sacrifice at Jacmel snake dances 
death of the black cock the more terrible aspect of Voodooism 
sacrifice of "the goat without horns" hopeless task of the missionary 
Not to my bedimmed eyes the vision of the distant shore 

Pp. 130-134 

xviii 



CONTENTS 

XXI 
WHEN NORTH JOINS SOUTH 

Racial distinction of colour Christian teaching unable to break down 
prejudice an unbiased Englishman his first appreciation of " the 
difference" various grades of colour on board he settles in Jamaica 
and falls in love with the daughter of his father's friend her father's 
opposition Herbert's marriage to Marie life at River Bend a 
quenchless honeymoon birth of a boy the child is black I a man's 
anger and a woman's agony " I hate it I I hate you ! I hate myself 1 " 
a mother's conquering love " Dear mother of Jesus help me ! " 
a night of rage and remorse her father's sin the seeming forgiveness 
of nature amendment and atonement " God's Acre " the Church's 
latest bride blotting out for ever a sin that was not hers Pp. 135-144 

XXII 
HOME PROBLEMS 







An ever-increasing burden of complexity population of Jamaica dispro- 
portion between the number of blacks and whites during the slave 
period evidences of the Spanish occupation the old palaces the 
Englishman's attitude towards JamaicaJamaica only his temporary 
home varied climate of Jamaica effect of temperature on an English- 
woman's habits the man's avocations the baby the determining 
factor in the Colonial home opportunities for the young man in 
Jamaica the too forceful effect of the climate on child life return 
of mother and child to England position of the lonely planter 
conditions that set a premium on deviation from moral code life of 
a hill station Mr. Plowden's "Grain and Chaff" ennui amid a 
never ending summer the pain and monotony solace of the planter 
in his wife's absence the Englishwoman's attitude of acceptance 
diverse effect of the Jamaican climate on the man and on the woman 
the question of condoning the licence claimed by the white man in 
a warm climate the aloofness and deadly dull monotony accommo- 
dating himself to the conditions in which he is cast . Pp. 145-150 



XXIII 
THE NATIVE WOMAN: (I) MARRIAGE 

Conditions of life in Jamaica woman the worker her swinging step and 
her heavy load her love of gossip her passion for personal adornment 
great strength of the native woman a walk of seventy miles with a 
load of 80 Ibs the man's position an encumbrance on the woman 
" marriage hab teeth " the marriage yoke evaded by the negro 
woman some incongruities " Ethiopia in Exile " circumstances in 
extenuation of the negro's mode of life incident showing the dangers 
which threaten negress virginity preparation for the wedding negro 

xix 



CONTENTS 

marriage etiquette love and kisses for one whole week early mother- 
hood the negro wife's heavy labour her husband's idleness house- 
keeping in the cabin Blue Island coffee the simple menu of the 
wattled hut . . . . . . . . . Pp. 151-156 



XXIV 
THE NATIVE WOMAN: (II) EDUCATION IN SEX 

Conditions of life in the cabin all absence of privacy the native girl's 
early education in sex a generous supply of schools in the island 
poor condition of the ^country schools a tribute to the coloured 
schoolmistress the school house often a hut of wattled hurdlings 
absence of sanitary arrangements evil practices among the children 
work of the boy and girl on leaving school a primitive laundry on 
the Rio Grande the negro girl's ambition to become a mother 
superstitions attaching to a maiden's death like superstitions nearer 
home Shakespeare H. Carey " The London Prodigal " a mission- 
ary's estimate of the danger of the negro woman's dying childless 
necessary questions put to candidates for Confirmation Confirmation 
often delayed in order to first satisfy the ambition of motherhood 
character of the effort early maturity in the tropics Pp. 157-162 



XXV 

THE NATIVE WOMAN: (III) GODDESSES IN 
CHOCOLATE 

Physical beauty of the black girl her pride and our despair her dream 
of becoming the mother of a white baby her subsequent position 
among her own people her pride in the white child her loyalty to 
the white man the return^of the " white lady " wages and perquisites 
of the household servant her " commissions " a story of two sisters 
their idea of being a lady " one at a time " fine clothes the position 
of the other sister their mutual privileges recalls stories of the old 
Italian novelists Pp. 163-168 



XXVI 
THE NATIVE WOMAN: (IV) FORBIDDEN DANCES 

Marriage and the negro woman's position in the Jamaican household 
cultured extravagance of the Orient not introduced into Jamaica 
dancing a natural vehicle of experience to the negro revival of the 
Calenda dance prohibition of dancing under English rule dance of 
the Congo negroes the Belair lasts throughout the night the song 
which accompanied the dance dress of the dancers appreciation of 
dancing by some early settlers a feminine Bluebeard description of 
Rose Hall the Hon. John Palmer Rosa Witter, his first wife the 
second Mrs. Palmer her licentious cruelty terrible death of the slave 

XX 



CONTENTS 

girl Mrs. Palmer's death at the hands of her slaves the power of her 
personality admixture of races in Jamaica the "coloured" popula- 
tion characteristic instances girls of English feature and black of 
skin white faces and negro features .... Pp. 169-174 



XXVII 
THE NATIVE WOMAN: (V) THE CREOLE WIFE 

The black woman in the white man's house her loyalty her attitude 
towards her own people her scrupulous cleanliness the West Indian 
household relative status of its members the black woman no part 
of the household at night acknowledgment of coloured unions 
an English clergyman's experiences loyalty of the negro to the 
planter slavish devotion of the female servant allowance now 
claimed by the black mother against the black father the white man's 
immunity Mrs. "Alice Spinner's " " A Study in Colour " the black 
woman's pride in the white child magnitude of the question of " race 
fusion " the undisguised favour of Sir Sydney Olivier aversion from 
such unions and to many tolerated in England a native proverb 
" de Devil made de brown man " let us escape to the pure atmo- 
sphere of an English gerttlewoman's home . . . Pp. 175-181 



XXVIII 

THE STORY OF AN ENGLISH BRIDE IN HER OWN 
WORDS : (I) " MY BRIDAL MORNING " 

Our little home on the sunny shores of Green Island out of the beaten 
track my husband myself and the man-servant and the maid- 
servant and the stranger within our gates love of England love and 
home " a woman's existence " my husband was my choice as I was 
his a birthday I'm 23 life in London and Jamaica compared 
furnishing a home in London for the tropics the wedding in Kings- 
townreal orange-blossoms Half- Way Tree Church mosquito bites 
travelling by train fruit sellers en route midday heat Pp. 182-190 



XXIX 

THE STORY OF AN ENGLISH BRIDE IN HER OWN 
WORDS: (II) "MY HOME-COMING" 

End of the train journey the black driver the drive home flying past 
hopelessly uncared for shops and cabins tears of joy ? my all per- 
vading sense of security and peace the driver and his song a 
welcome cup of tea David and the racing ponies love-making 
Morden Grange Merryfields the welcome to the white missis a 
bouquet presented by "Mabel Guy Mannering" my first and only 
speech I hasten indoors to explore .... Pp. 191-199 

xxi 



CONTENTS 



xxx 

THE STORY OF AN ENGLISH BRIDE IN HER OWN 
WORDS: (III) "OUR HOME" 

Spanish foundations in Jamaica a grandee's house life in the open 
air " first catch your cook " Justina's apprehensive nervousness 
the combined lady's maid and house-maid the mystery of Clemen- 
tina's hat dressed for Harvest Festival Sunday Jamaican news- 
papers a husband's annoy ingly conciliatory mood marketing terms 
dollars and the days of paper money the meat problem soup- 
making peculiarities of native servants practice of leaving sub- 
stitutes during their absence "spicing" the coffee a sketch of 
Solomon triumph of the white will Conviviality at the barbecue 
David above such familiarity the native servants' sleeping pavilion 
habits and conditions of the native labourer the hut tax the white 
mistress as "medicine woman" the black man's fear of internal 
pain making the house look like home negro admiration for the 
white mistress The shrine of the u White Lady " " Massa Edward " 
excursions to Kingston and Port Antonio reviving memories of 
our youth this land of wood and water, of sunshine and song and 
dreams the world without of eager, hungry, unsatisfied and cruel 
effort contrast to our island realm lying in the very lap of the 
gods Pp. 200-213 



XXXI 

THE EARTHQUAKE 

Arrival of the Port Kingston at Kingston Harbour a picture of the city 
before the upheaval atmospheric conditions on the afternoon of 
January 14 the first wave of motion sensation of the dancing 
eatth fall of debris length of time occupied by the earthquake 
the fire collapse of buildings pleading cry of the helpless the 
agonising call for water the decks of the Port Kingston crowded with 
mangled remains the procession to the May Pen cemetery funeral 
pyres in Kingston disposal of the dead fear of pestilence blunted 
sensibilities agony of the bereft wife search for her lost husband 
story of a soldier's despair heroism of the black nurse her devotion 
to her charge a miraculous escape escape of Sir Alfred Jones from 
the Myrtle Bank Hotel mystery as to the fate of Miss F. E. B. Hall, 
Dr. Thomas Savage and Mr. L. O'Connell escape of Mr. Jesse 
Ceilings, Sir Thomas Hughes and Mr. Howell Davies, M. P. Lord 
Dudley, the Governor, Archbishop Nuttall, Sir Daniel Morris, Dr. 
Swaby, Mr. John R. Bovell quietly escape from the Conference Hall of 
the Old Mico building Archbishop Nuttall prevents an ugly rush 
coolness of Lord Dudley wreck of the Jamaica Club escape of 
Mr. Gerald Loder and Mr. A. K. Hamilton Mr. Bradley crushed by 
an iron girder death of Mr. A. McDowell Nathan death of Sir 
James Fergusson his escape reported bravery of Captain Constan- 
tino chaos and misery good fortune of Sir Alfred Jones's guests 
a little friend missing the fall of night aid given by Sir Alfred 

xxii 



CONTENTS 

Jones work of Dr. Evans the bow of the Port Kingston aground- 
work of getting the vessel off anaesthetics exhausted everything in 
his power done by Sir A. Jones to relieve suffering humanity the 
permit to Lady Dudley to secure commodities from the cellars of the 
Myrtle Bank Hotel wreck of Constant Spring Hotel a picture of the 
interior accommodation arranged on the tennis lawn Jamaica's 
extinct volcano the Southern Cross scenes at the hospital a sister's 
care for her dying brother a visit to Admiral Davis on the American 
warship Missouri dead men's fires the future of Jamaica style of 
the new buildings the old Kingston and the new . Pp. 214-231 



XXXII 
THE JAMAICA GAZETTE 

Proclamation, Wednesday, January 16, 1907 . . . .. P. 232 

XXXIII 
AMERICAN AID 

Mission of the Author Mr. Arthur Spurgeon requests of the English 
and American newspapers baldness of first reports cablegram to 
the Author from the New York Times follows him across the Atlantic 
the first cablegram sent by the Author to the New York Times publi- 
cation in London and New York the Daily Mail landing of Admiral 
Davis Sir Alexander Swettenham declines his aid reasons for the 
Governor's action the need for surgical aid professional jealousy 
amazement in England the black danger escape of the lunatics 
outbreak within the asylum influence of Dr. D. J. Williams looting 
in the streets wild statements an incident near King Street grave 
apprehensions the Dreadnought expected arrival of the United 
States torpedo destroyer Whipple impatience of Dr. Ames and Lieu- 
tenant Commander Anderson their requestjto see the Governor their 
meeting with Deputy Inspector-General Wedderburn Major Kershaw's 
post Captain Parsons arrival of the Missouri and Indiana prompt 
landing of the men reception of the American officers at the tempo- 
rary head-quarters of the Government the telegram of Sir Alexander 
Swettenham to the Governor of Cuba Governor Magoon's action 
prompt action of the American men Surgeon McDowell superintends 
the landing of the medical stores work of the men in pulling down 
dangerous walls and preventing looting debris of the Sailor's Home 
hospital established by the American surgeons at Winchester Park 
official promptness at Washington action of Admiral Evans despatch 
of the Whipple despatch from the Navy department at Washington 
"An Act for the relief of the Citizens of the Island of Jamaica," 
passed by Congress the question of international etiquette in Jamaica 
help tendered by the International Brotherhood League of California 
work of the Oteri Mr. W. R. Turner action of guests and em- 
ployes at the Hotel Titchfield Dr. J. Errington Ker scene at the 
General Hospital, Kingston recovery of the anaesthetics from the 
debris use of chloroform in Jamaica fear of typhoid and dysentery 

xxiii 



CONTENTS 

-work of Dr. C. W. M. Castle and his staff Dr. W. D. Neish and 
others recalled from local stations private medical practitioners 
summoned Mr. M. C. Solomon Jamaica's debt to Dr. J. Errington 
Ker , . . . pp. 233-247 



XXXIV 
ACCEPTED AND REFUSED 

The offer of Dr. Christensen accepted the trouble at the Penitentiary- 
despatch of Mr. Douglas to Major Kershaw the Hon. Hugh Clarence 
Bourne appearance of the Governor in the streets of Kingston his 
standard of efficiency " my insubordinates " the proper procedure 
for the indictment of a Governor an appeal to Lord Elgin men from 
the Indiana landed under Lieut. Sticht for special duty at the Peni- 
tentiary moral effect on the prisoners the Author's introduction to 
Admiral Davis personality of the Admiral his feelings on the situ- 
ation suggestion of the Author as to the reason for the Governor's 
action Sir A. Swettenham's assurances in regard to the absence of 
looting opposite opinion of Admiral Davis his offer to the Author in 
regard to cablegrams the Author's message home . Pp. 248-254 



XXXV 

FAMOUS LETTERS 

Letter from Admiral Davis to Sir A. Swettenham appeal of the Author to 
Sir Alfred Jones his hesitation renewed appeal of the Author his 
failure to persuade Sir Alfred reply of the Governor to Admiral 
Davis Driven in response to an inquiry from Lord Elgin the Governor 
holds a court at the Penitentiary to try the ringleaders in the mutiny 
American men deputed by Sir A. Swettenham to escort the 
prisoners . . . . . , . Pp. 255-262 



XXXVI 
THE PORT KINGSTON SAILS 

The Author's defence of an unpopular cause opinion of Mr. Jesse 
Collings the Author's arguments concerning the lunatics, the pri- 
soners at the Penitentiary and the crushed bodies among the debris 
his argument concerning the refusal of medical and surgical aid unde- 
fended an opportunity for strengthening anational friendship wasted 
divergent views on the situation an informal meeting proposed for 
the purpose of putting on record certain expressions of opinion appre- 
ciative of the splendid behaviour of the doctors, officers and crew of 
the Port Kingston during the crisis the Author joins in the movement 
opinion of Mr. Arnold- Forster the Author's contribution the 
tribute to Sir A. Jones Mr. Henniker Heaton's proposal the resolu- 
tions and notice, calling the meeting of the passengers, drawn up by 

xxiv 



CONTENTS 

the Author and Mr. Arnold-Forster condition of the ship between 
Kingston and Barbados the sensation of " waking up to find yourself 
dead " attitude of Mr. Jesse Ceilings towards the proceedings the 
Author presses for unanimity approval of the Bishop of Barbados 
refusal of Mr. Lawrence Lord Dudley as chairman of the meeting 
separations at Barbados Sir Alfred Jones's acknowledgments his 
reply characteristic of the man cables from London read at Bridge- 
town the Mansion House Fund inaugurated by the King the King's 
message cable from the Prince and Princess of Wales Canada's 
sympathy message from President Fallieres to King Edward the 
King's reply messages from Sir H. Campbell-Bannerman, Lord Elgin, 
Sir Edward Grey, and Mr. Haldane tribute paid by the citizens of 
Kingston to Admiral Davis and his men illness of Mr. C. W. Tait 
the appeal written at Mr. Tait's bedside reply of Admiral Davis 
two remarkable points in his letter communication of Sir Frank 
Swettenham to the Times official quibbling death of Mr. Tait*' The 
M issouri and Indiana have left Kingston" . . . Pp. 263-276 



XXXVII 
THE PORT KINGSTON'S RETURN 

Conflicting emotions roused by the cable messages criticisms on Sir 
Alexander Swettenham departure of Admiral Davis return of the 
Cdtic with the gifts of President Roosevelt first edition of the 
Gleaner printed after the disaster the Jamaica Daily Telegraph 
account of the leave-taking of Admiral Davis a tribute to the 
Governor the Jamaica Daily Telegraph's criticism of Sir A. Swetten- 
ham insulting language another side to the picture opinions of 
Sir A. Jones and Mr. Jesse Collings the unmeasured invective of Mr. 
Hamar Greenwood " Yankee bosh "Mr. Henniker Heaton's opinion 
the idea of "confidential correspondence " and "private mission" 
denied what might have happened had Admiral Evans taken the 
place of Admiral Davis an "eye-witness's narrative" by the Rt. 
Hon. H. O. Arnold-Forster, M.P. fairness of the writer's judgment 
his idea of the object of the American marines public opinion 
biased in England the King's speech cryptic references the 
Governor's unwise counsellors Pp. 277-286 



XXXVIII 
THE GOVERNOR RESIGNS 

The dispute in London and Jamaica Mr. Winston Churchill announces 
the resignation of Sir A. Swettenham extracts from the Parlia- 
mentary White Paper giving " Correspondence relating to the resigna- 
tion of Sir A. Swettenham," Lord Elgin's cable to the Governor 
Sir A. Swettenham's telegram to Admiral Davis, withdrawing his 
letter his accompanying telegram asking permission to retire com- 
munication of Mr. H. E. Cox, Cnstos of St. Ann, to the Morning Post 
the address to Lord Elgin the appointment of a new Governor 
makes it inadvisable to send it the valedictory address proposed by 

XXV 



CONTENTS 

the members of the City Council of Kingstonaccount in the Gleaner 
(April 29) a meeting of the Kingston magistrates proposal of 
Captain Forwood financial policy of Sir A. Swettenham the lesson 
to be drawn from the " incident " ,: . . . Pp. 287-291 



XXXIX 

THE NEW GOVERNOR 

The appointment of Sydney Olivier, Esq. , as Governor of Jamaica return 
of the Port Kingston graceful farewell of Sir A. Swettenham letter 
of Mr. V. H. Metcalfe to the President of the Navy Department, 
Washington, that the issuance of stores by the detached United States 
Atlantic fleet " be approved " the signature "T. Roosevelt" added 
the reply of Sir Sydney Olivier expressing appreciation and thanks 
through Mr. Boot to the American Government . . Pp. 292-2 94 



XL 
TROPICAL SPORT 

Tarpon fishing depredations of the mongoose immunity of John Crow 
ravages of the tick alligator hunting haunts of the alligator bis 
habits shooting and skinning of alligators sport in a mangrove 
forest Mr. Edwin Butler his advice regarding choice spots for 
alligator shooting the Salt River Bowes River Bushy Park River 
Great House Works, Amity Hall and Cherry Garden the Salt 
Ponds and Goat Island the manatee Sir Henry Blake Milk River 
Great Black River Swamp the morass of Savanna la Mar cali- 
piver and snook shooting Pigeon shooting habits of the bird the 
Palisades haunt of the duck coot of the Ferry River snipe and 
paroquet protection of birds during the breeding-season abundance 
of crocodiles tarpon and shark mullet bait conditions of sport 
in Jamaica and England compared .... Pp. 295-299 



XLI 
AU REVOIR 

Colonisation in Jamaica and in Egypt British treatment of the negro of 
Jamaica methods of the Christian teacher in Jamaica the idea of 
whiteness in the mind of the black man his happiness in Christianity 
tares among the wheat production of the " coloured race " the 
black woman's desire for a white child the negro as produced by 
European civilisation influence of Mohammedanism on the negro 
race tributes in Greek and Latin literature to the beauty, strength 
and fidelity of the black race Ethiopia in the Scriptures the Ethio- 
pian in Homer the black man in history and poetry Our Lady 
referred to as a black the Black Virgin in the Chapel of St. Thomas 
of Ville Neuve, Paris the question of labour for the black man his 

xxvi 



CONTENTS 

relations to woman impossibility of Islamism the population in 
1660 at the period of emancipation the first census by duly ap- 
pointed officers in 1844 fall of the white population in census of 
1861 and 1871 first inclusion of coolies and Chinese in census of 1881 
the population to-day William Rat hbone Greg his book "Literary 
and Social Judgments " marriage returns births infant mortality 
rate of mortality between legitimate and illegitimate children com- 
pared the leprosy hospital spread of the disease the disease en- 
demic in Norway and Sweden fish as a cause of leprosy cargo of 
condemned fish seized by negroes fish diet in the Isle of Man the 
English language in Jamaica its modification in the United States 
unsuitability of its sounds to the negro " White Capital and Coloured 
Labour " by Sydney Olivier the Hon. C. A. Lister" Riches and 
Poverty " the new Governor's ideas as to the fusion of the white 
and black races the white woman's objection virility of the Jew 
Rev. Dr. Pentecost some specimens of the commingling of the white 
and the negro Pushkin not a happy instance the elder Dumas 
Toussaint 1'Ouverture Mr. Booker Washington Dr. Edward W. 
Blyden of Liberia a pertinent question for Sir Sydney Olivier 
Fabianism the need for keeping King Edward's personality in the 
minds of the people the idea on the Continent Germany and Italy 
farewell memory-pictures of Kingston morning of our arrival 
sunshine and joy departure in twilight gloom of settled melancholy 
and almost of despair orrow cements human hearts the Author's 
affection for Jamaica rewarded beyond all thanksgiving if he has 
served to point or lighten the path we would tread . Pp. 300-319 



APPENDIX I 
THE JAMAICA GAZETTE, MARCH 7, 1907 

Extracts from the Jamaica, Gazette the Governor directs the publication 
of the Author's letter to him enclosing six resolutions passed at the 
meeting of passengers on board the Part Kingston on January 21 
the Author's letter to Sir A. Swettenham Copy of the six resolutions 
letters of acknowledgment from Lord Elgin the Board of Trade 
Sir Jae. A. Swettenham Dr. A. J. Evans and the Secretary 
Superintendent of the Middlesex Hospital . ; .Pp. 323-327 

APPENDIX II 
THE IMPERIAL TREASURY GRANT AND LOAN 

Archbishop Nuttall and Mr. A. W. Farquharson delegated by the citizens 
of Kingston to proceed to England to obtain financial help for Jamaica 
the Archbishop's zeal and diplomacy whole-hearted support 
given by Lord Elgin Mr. Asquith letter of Lord Elgin announcing 
the decision in favour of Jamaica letter of the Archbishop in reply 
to Lord Elgin Resolution of the Restoration Committee of Kingston 
expressive of the Colony's loyalty and gratitude to King Edward and 
appreciation of the sympathy and support of his ministers and the 
House of Commons Lord Elgin's letter in acknowledgment 

Pp. 328-329 

xxvii 



CONTENTS 

APPENDIX III 
NEGRO PROVERBS 

" Cockroach eber so drunk, him no walk past fowl-yard " a familiar 
phrase the negro's contempt for the brown man " De brown man 
wife eat cockroach in corner, save him money fe buy silk dress " 
the brown man's pride in his own colour "Jim Crow tink him own 
pinkney white" the dog a favourite subject the rat Time the 
cat " A closed mouth catches no flies " Sleep " If there is trouble 
in the bush it will soon be in the house " the monkey the goat 
the cow the black man and the white man the clergyman the 
cotton tree the thief comfort in philosophy " A stone at the 
bottom of a river does not feel the heat of the sun " . Pp. 330-331 



APPENDIX IV 
THE SHIP'S DAILY RUN 

From the log of the R.M.S. Port Kingston . . . .Pp. 332-333 

INDEX Pp. 335-352 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



PHOTOGRAVURE PLATES 

THE AUTHOR Frontispiece 

(From photograph by 0. W. Cowen, Ramsey, Isle of Man) 

Facing 
page 

SIR ALFRED JONES, K.C.M.G. 280 

(From photograph by Messrs. Mowlliand Morrison, Liverpool) 



PLATES IN COLOUR 

ABINGDON, JAMAICA, A TYPICAL " GREAT HOUSE " OF AN 

ENGLISH PLANTER IN THE WEST INDIES 144 

ONE OF THE LESSER ISLANDS OFF GREEN ISLAND, JAMAICA 305 

(Both plates are from sketches lent to the Author by the artist, 
May Goodwin) 

MAP 

THE ALLIGATOR SHOOTING GROUND 2Q8 

(From a drawing prepared for this volume by Edwin Butler) 
PLATES IN BLACK AND WHITE 

ARRIVAL AT BARBADOS 18 

ARRIVAL AT JAMAICA 18 

DIVING BOYS 20 

AN ALARM OF SHARK 20 
STREET SCENES IN KINGSTON : I. ORANGE STREET J II. KING 

STREET 32 

THE RODNEY MONUMENT AT SPANISH TOWN 34 

THE OFFICERS' QUARTERS AT THE UP PARK CAMP 34 

xxix 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Facing 
page 

THE MARKET AT KINGSTON 38 

THE CACTUS AS HEDGEROW 44 

WOOD CARTS EN ROUTE FOR KINGSTON 48 

BECKFORD STREET, KINGSTON 52 

THE Y.S. FALLS, ST. ELIZABETH 56 

CASTLETON GARDENS, JAMAICA 60 

HOTEL TITCHFIELD, PORT ANTONIO 64 

LUNCHING ON THE PIAZZA OF THE HOTEL TITCHFIELD 66 

ON THE STRAND NEAR PORT ANTONIO 66 

PLANTING A BANANA SUCKER 68 

CUTTING A BANANA STEM 70 

THE COOLIE AND HIS WIFE HOEING 72 

NEGROES BRINGING BANANAS TO A STORE SHED 72 

AMONG THE SUGAR CANES 74 
DRYING COCOA-BEANS ON ONE OF ROWNTREfi's PLANTATIONS 74 

PEASANT'S PRIMITIVE SUGAR-GRINDING MILL 76 

BOILING SUGAR ON A PEASANT'S HOLDING 76 

COOLIE CUTTING OFF A BANANA BUNCH WITH A MACHETE 78 

A GROUP OF EAST INDIAN WOMEN AND CHILDREN 80 

EAST INDIAN TYPES IN THE WEST INDIES 82 

THREE COOLIE GIRLS 84 

AN EAST INDIAN BREAKFAST 84 

MARGARET AND HER HUSBAND IN NATIVE COSTUME 86 

THE COOLIE CHILD-WIFE 86 
MARGARET AND HER HUSBAND IN EUROPEAN BRIDAL ARRAY 88 

EAST INDIAN CUTTING COCOA-PODS 90 

ROARING RIVER FALLS 96 

A NEGRO WEDDING 100 

RETURNING FROM MARKET 108 

ON THE WAY TO MARKET 112 

THE BEAUTIFUL SILK-COTTON TREE Il6 

A NEGRO FAMILY 1 32 

NEWCASTLE MILITARY CAMP (NOW ABANDONED) 1 48 

THE MILITARY CEMETERY AT NEWCASTLE 148 

THE NATIVE'S WATTLED HUT ON A LONELY PLANTATION 152 

NEGRO AMAZONS 152 

THE SCHOOL-HOUSE OF A COUNTRY DISTRICT 158 

XXX 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

F 

page 

"YOU LUB ME?'" 158 

TYPES OF NEGRO BEAUTY l60 

LAUNDRY WOMEN 162 

JACK TAR'S DIVERSION 166 

A NEGRO TALE OF LOVE l66 

LIGHT-HEARTED, LAUGHTER-LOVING WOMEN 170 

A JAMAICAN CREOLE 174 

A JAMAICAN LAUNDRY MAID 176* 

ONE OF NATURE'S OWN ENIGMAS IN THE EAST INDIES 180 

" NOT A CARPET COVERS ANY FLOOR " 200 

ROSIE WASHING CLOTHES IN THE RIVER 200 

WAG WATER VALLEY 208 

AT THE MOUTH OF THE WAG WATER 210 

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 210 

KINGSTON FROM THE SEA, AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE 21 6 

APPROACHING KINGSTON FROM THE COUNTRY (DITTO) 21 6 

THE COURTYARD OF MYRTLE BANK HOTEL 218 

AN OPERATION ON DECK 220 

THE BURNING CITY AT NIGHT 222 

THE JAMAICA CLUB IN HANOVER STREET 224 

MACHADO'S CIGAR STORE 224 

CARRYING THE WOUNDED TO THE PORT KINGSTON 226 

KINGSTON RAILWAY STATION 226 

SIDE STREET OFF WEST STREET, KINGSTON 226 

PUTTING OUT THE FIRES 228 
WITHIN THE PUBLIC HOSPITAL AFTER THE FIRST PRESSURE 

HAD BEEN RELIEVED 230 

LIGHTER RECEIVING THE DEAD 230 
BEFORE THE EARTHQUAKE : THE BAND OF THE WEST 

INDIA REGIMENT OUTSIDE THE GARRISON CHAPEL 232 
AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE : THE RUINS OF THE GARRISON 

CHAPEL 232 

A GLIMPSE OF HARBOUR STREET, KINGSTON 234 

ANOTHER VIEW OF HARBOUR STREET, KINGSTON 234 

CONSTANT SPRING HOTEL 236 

PORT ROYAL STREET 236 

THE MARINE GARDENS HOTEL 240 

xxxi 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Facing 
page 

THE STATUE OF QUEEN VICTORIA 240 
AMERICAN BLUE-JACKETS TO THE RESCUE 242 
CENTRAL PARK, 6 A.M. THE MORNING AFTER THE EARTH- 
QUAKE 244 
FAMILIES ENCAMPED IN THE GARDENS OF THEIR WRECKED 

HOMES, VICTORIA AVENUE, KINGSTON 244 
THE OFFICAL RESIDENCE OF DR. SHACKLETON IN THE 

ASYLUM GROUNDS, KINGSTON 248 

(1) BEFORE AND (2) AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE 248 
MEMENTOES OF THE EARTHQUAKE (REPRODUCTIONS OF 

THE NEWSPAPERS FIRST ISSUED) . 250 

HOLY TRINITY ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH 252 

THE OLD CALABAR BAPTIST CHAPEL 252 

WARDS IN THE LUNATIC ASYLUM 256 
A RELIC OF THE EARTHQUAKE (THE COUNTESS OF 

DUDLEY'S PERMIT) 258 

A CROWDED TRAM-CAR 262 

THE RUINS OF A TRAM-CAR AND TANGLE OF ELECTRIC 

WIRES 262 

CROWDS GATHERING ON THE ELDER, DEMPSTER WHARF AS 

THE DIRECT MAIL STEAMER HAILS IN SIGHT 31 6 

THE CLOSING IN OF TWILIGHT ON OUR DEPARTURE FROM 

JAMAICA 319 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 

A GROUP of business men, merchants, brokers, 
cotton-spinners, capitalists, and planters, present 
and prospective, not to mention certain members 
of both Houses of Parliament, and others who 
might assist the object in view, among whom I 
count, happily and appropriately, a number of ladies, 
recently formed an expedition to Jamaica. Of 
this group I was a member. 

Sir Alfred Jones, K.C.M.G., prince among en- 
tertainers, was our host, and in starting on the 
trip he promised his guests a voyage that would 
be unique, inasmuch as it would prove of national, 
commercial, and historic importance. The prophecy, 
so entirely characteristic of the man in its spirit of 
enterprise and singleness of purpose, was destined 
to be strangely realised, though hardly in the way 
he expected. Historic it probably will be in the 
annals of Jamaica; certainly nothing will ever efface 
the experience from our memories. 

To me this narrative seems to begin, as it began 
with many of us, in London. It was five o'clock 
in the afternoon, midwinter, and dark. The tea- 
cups had only just disappeared from the table. 
From outside came the muffled sounds of traffic 
labouring along thoroughfares rendered almost im- 
passable by Father Christmas's too lavish gift of 

1 A 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

snow. The air was keen and frosty, making the 
fire round which we gathered doubly welcome for 
its warmth as well as its good cheer. 

For the journey to Paddington a whole hour 
as an extra allowance for the state of the roads 
was not any too much. In crossing the bridge 
spanning the Serpentine, 1 could see dimly, through 
the coating of snow on the window-pane, the dull 
sheet of ice lying on the placid surface of the 
water below. Dropping the window for an instant 
to take in yet again that striking view from the 
bridge eastward, with its picturesque glimpse of 
Westminster, one of the proudest and best in 
all London, I remember how I comforted myself, 
in the sharp and searching nip of the frosty air, 
with the cheering prospect of other lands where 
cold is not, and snow and ice something read about 
in books but never seen. It was a satisfying touch 
of contrast, and provided me with no small measure 
of consolation for the joy of the blazing fire I had, 
almost hesitatingly, relinquished. 

Paddington reached at last, I soon saw great heaps 
of luggage all embellished with the same blue labels 
with white lettering : " State Room " and " Hold." 

It is always a little curious to look at people for 
the first time with the knowledge that you are 
destined to see a good deal of them later, and 
possibly to know certain of them almost quite well. 
Then every one's behaviour is so distinct ! Some 
people take their places in the " Avonmouth and 
West Indies Special "with no more apparent concern 
than they would if they were leaving the train at 
Westbourne Park, the next station, though we all 
know that much may happen in 10,000 miles 
travel by land and sea, and that it is almost 
inevitable that some voyagers will never see 
England again. A great group of friends come 

2 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 

to see some passengers off; "friends" they all call 
themselves, as they noisily, almost boisterously, 
say their farewells, but I wonder if the compart- 
ment next beyond, in which I note the pallid face 
of a young girl who is making a sea voyage as a 
health trip, has not sounded a richer and truer 
note of friendship ! One old man, who is evidently 
her father I judge it by a certain tender authority 
in his manner and one young man, who is evidently 
a very, very dear friend I judge that by the rather 
nervous hesitancy in which he produced some fresh 
red roses from a delicately piimed-up white paper 
parcel these alone come to see her off. 

Then there are men who seem, by some indefin- 
able distinction, to have been born travelling ; others 
who seem to have been born tired, so weary are they 
of the journey before it has begun, and so convinced 
are they that they will be bored to death before it is 
over. Others have the eyes of the traveller proper, 
eyes and ears for everything. Life is to them one 
prolonged voyage of discovery ; and armed with 
gun-case, fishing-rod, camera, and marine glass, 
they start on this trip with as keen a relish as they 
started on their first and keener, because experi- 
ence means knowledge, and knowledge means in- 
telligent enjoyment. 

And, lastly, there are many girls as well as boys 
who are now returning to the West Indies after 
going through a whole school course in England, 
learning English ways and English speech and 
with these, perhaps, insular littlenesses as well as 
world-wide breadth of vision, by which I mean a 
power to see good everywhere and to forget what 
is ungenerous and unkind. 

The train had barely started before an attendant 
came round with an immense box of chocolate, 
from which, "with Sir Alfred Jones's compliments," 

3 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

I was permitted to help myself. Then came 
tempting grapes and other fruits from the same 
fount of many blessings, and 1 concluded I must 
be in luck's way if I could only keep warm. 
Alas ! I was miserably cold, and all the rugs and 
foot- warmers in the world were imperfect consola- 
tion, Then, welcome voice, " Dinner is served." 

But, woe is me ! shall I ever forget the freezing 
cold of the dining saloon that night ! I am sure 
the dinner would have been quite good if I could 
but have remained to eat it. I had a warm over- 
coat, and a rug over my knees, but the draught 
along the floor was like a breath from an ice-house. 
In vain I appealed to the attendants. Something 
had gone wrong with the works ; so, while I hoped 
my limbs would still bear me up, I decamped to 
my compartment, which now felt tropical by com- 
parison. 

Wonderingly I screwed myself into a corner. 
How do we manage to make our " steamer trains " 
so woefully uncomfortable ? 

But the chilling process has its compensations. 
And the reader may imagine how grateful we were 
to draw alongside our great white ship, the Port 
Kingston, in the Avonmouth docks, and see all the 
bright lights and cheery faces of those who had 
come down earlier or by some other route than 
that of the Great Western "special." I felt so 
hungry, and they all looked so feloniously well 
fed! 

An army of stewards was available to seize our 
luggage, and in a trice I was established, with all 
my belongings, in my cabin. I had met and had 
answered all the kindly inquiries of my host, 
and had made the acquaintance of my " stable 
companion," Dr. Neville Williams, champion of 
Harrogate as a health resort, who was making the 

4 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 

trip with his daughter, whose beautiful complexion 
and fresh colour were a better advertisement than 
the Yorkshire health resort could ever design, 

The hour was already late, and soon most 
passengers were in their berths and asleep, leaving 
master and officers to fume over the delinquencies 
of laggard members of the crew. At Barry, how- 
ever, we picked up the remaining complement of 
hands for the stokehold. Then the Port Kingston 
stood out for the sea ; and though I had not the 
excuse of being ill, I deemed it prudent to remain 
in my cabin for the first day, there to enjoy the 
rest that is always found on shipboard from "a 
world that is too much with us," the luxury of the 
warmth, and a diet at once appetising and 
generous. 

We were ploughing through the sea at great 
speed greater speed than all of us appreciated. 
By touching, however, at Barbados en route for 
Jamaica, instead of proceeding via Turk's Island 
direct, we had some 1100 miles more to traverse, 
without any corresponding allowance in time. 
Some one said perhaps it was the barber the 
barber's shop is always an emporium of knick-knacks 
and information as to the navigation of the ship 
that the captain wanted "time in hand for con- 
tingencies and was pushing her." Rumour has 
many voices on shipboard. As we gained on our 
track, however, we slackened speed from day to 
day, until our progress became as leisurely as any 
idle yachting cruise to anywhere or nowhere. 

Bristol was not left behind more than a day or 
two when all the passengers began to appear on 
deck and exchange friendly greeting. Adversity 
makes strange bedfellows, says the old adage. The 
sea must be a first cousin. It brings out the com- 
panionable qualities of every one, making of every 

5 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

man a brother, but, rather curiously, not of every 
woman a sister exactly a sister-in-law, perhaps, 
for a real brother. 

I noted with interest and pleasure that those 
passengers with children are known to all at once, 
the children being the unconscious means of break- 
ing down social barriers and making people speak 
who never spoke before. That reminds me. 

A sweet little girl with whom I was on excellent 
terms the second or third day out tumbled into a 
big deck-chair near me, and, after silently contem- 
plating the boundless sea, said : 

" Who looks after all this water when we are 
not here ? " 

I was quite puzzled. I had not considered 
the sea in that light. So I simply replied : " I 
really can't imagine. Do you think it must be 
lonely?" 

" Horribly," she said ; and she gave such a shiver 
that in sheer sympathy I felt oceans of cold water 
pouring down my back. 

" No ships, no people, no islands even, or big 
eaves to play about in ! " she said pityingly. 

" Must be dull," I thought, 

" Horribly, beastly dull ! " she said with em- 
phasis, and began her book afresh. 

As the hours passed on, however, I felt her eyes 
were again on the sea, and that she, like the waves, 
or the mermaids gambolling in their midst, or the 
old red-faced, grey-bearded father who lives in the 
sea, was having a " beastly dull " time of it. 

Like your book ? " 1 asked at last, as I saw she 
was skipping pages, trying to find an interesting 
place to begin alresh. 

" No, it is horribly, beastly, stupidly dull ! " she 
said, and she promptly shut it up with a bang. 

That bang startled me. It was so emphatic. 

6 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 

" Can't you tell me of a good book ? " she said. 
" Mother says you can." 

I felt flattered, and said I had noted in the ship's 
library several she might very well read. Among 
all the names I gave her, she thought she would 
like best " A Prisoner of Zenda," particularly if 
there was " some killing " in it, or " A Gentleman 
of France," if he were really a hero and in love 
with a beautiful princess in a dungeon ! 

Now she has one of them from the library 
steward, and has no eyes for me or for any one, 
and only looks up from her enthralling pages when 
the ice or the fruit comes round, or when some 
youngster with particular insistence secures her for 
a deck game of which she has already a proud 
contempt. 

And so, a little jealous of any one named Hope 
or Weyman, I relapse into one of my books on 
the West Indies, or to a survey of our fellow- 
passengers as they pass and repass our chairs on 
their perambulations round the ship. 



II 

GUESTS AND FELLOW-PASSENGERS 

THIS narrative would not be complete if it did not 
record something of my fellow-voyagers, or such 
of them as I chance to know. Sir Alfred Jones, 
our host, is the same prince of good fellows I 
have known since a boy ; and though he is still a 
bachelor, grey hairs are more numerous now than 
black threads. He is beloved by all by the men 
for his ceaseless energy, concentration, and business 
ideals, by the women for his generous instincts and 
chivalrous bearing, and by the children for the 
ceaseless flow of good things he drops into their 
laps, or the books and great boxes of chocolate 
they find on their plates at table. 

" Some nice woman has missed a good husband 
in Alfred Jones," said a lady to me one day rather 
confidingly, and she spoke as one who would have 
married him herself, if her husband and the law 
would have allowed. 

But a sweeter tribute came one day from my little 
chum in short petticoats. 1 found her munching 
a more than fairly large mouthful of chocolate, and 
looking very intently on the sea far away. 

" Are you thinking of the lonely mermaids ? " I 
began. 

" No," she replied decisively, " I have given 
them up." 

8 



GUESTS AND FELLOW-PASSENGERS 

She spoke as a grown woman does of another 
who has lapsed badly and been found out. Perhaps 
the mermaids had been " carrying on " with Father 
Neptune. 

"Then the flying-fish?" I suggested. Every 
moment they were hastening from our path through 
the sea. 

"No." 

" I know. You are thinking how you can gollop 
up all that chocolate without being ill or missing 
your luncheon?" 

" No, indeed. I really don't like chocolate at all, 
and I only eat it for the sake of the sweet feeling 
as it slips down," she said reflectively. Then, 
with a winsome laugh, she went on, " 1 do wish 
one could stretch out one's neck a bit a short one 
for nasty medicine and a long one for chocolate." 

" Was that what you were thinking ? " 

" Of course not." 

"Well, then, a penny for your thoughts," I 
said. 

" I was thinking of a conundrum. * Why is 
King Alfred like a woman ? ' ' 

I supposed " King Alfred " was a new name 
for Sir Alfred " King of the Jammies " (her pet 
name for Jamaicans), she explained. 

" I can't imagine the smallest likeness," I said at 
last. 

" But think." 

" Can't think any more on this voyage ; it's too 
warm," I said despairingly. 

" Why, because he loves being loved." She 
was bubbling over, as she spoke, with grown-up 
roguish merriment. 

" Good ! " I said ; " but your mother told you 
that, or you got it out of a book ? " 

" No, indeed ! I have been half an hour making 

9 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

it up, and eating chocolate all the time to help me 
to think." 

As I fell a- dreaming I remember thinking, "Some 
' nice ' young man will have a troubled time 
before he makes captive the heart of my young, 
fair, and beautiful charmer." 

Then I must mention Lord Dudley, who has 
been Viceroy of Ireland. All fair-minded men 
esteem him because he has views above all party 
differences and little bitternesses. Lady Dudley 
is a clever woman of a clever family. Kind and 
considerate, she has lightened the tedium of ocean 
travel by playing the piano in the music saloon 
occasionally. One of the officers who has a good 
voice is indebted to her for many useful helps in 
his singing, while we owe both our thanks. 

Mr. Arnold- Forster, M.P., has written school 
books for children and a kind of school book for 
the Army or rather for those who are supposed to 
direct or control the Army. He is not like the 
man whom you would think of as a writer for 
children, not a Lewis Carroll, big child himself, 
ready for a romp and a tale beginning " There was a 
merchant of Bagdad," and all the rest of it. He is 
a man of intellect, as distinct from a man of mere 
charm or glow of simple, lovable human nature. 
Yet while the world admires brains, it is won by 
charm. All the "charming" women are happy 
brides ; all the " clever " women are reading prob- 
lem novels in lonely garrets " So much," that 
most dreadful of all creatures, the cynical woman, 
will say, " for men's brains ! " 

Two men of influence are Mr. J. Henniker 
Heaton, M.P., and Mr. Jesse Collings, M.P. Mr. 
Henniker Heaton is a big man and heavy, and not 
unlike a very clever man, a modern prophet to 
whom I used to listen with profound attention 

10 



GUESTS AND FELLOW-PASSENGERS 

years ago Sir Oliver Lodge, at the Liverpool 
University College. I thought Professor Oliver 
Lodge a magician in the realms of science ; now 
he is a philosopher in the realms of high thinking. 

When Mr. Henniker Heaton is near, and I look 
at his great expansive head and small, quick eyes, 
I am on the tiptoe of expectancy. 1 am sure he is 
going to say something amazingly profound. In 
fact, no man was ever so wise as Mr. Henniker 
Heaton can look when he is so minded. But, 
acting upon Kingsley's advice, " Be good, sweet 
maid, and let who will be clever," he is always 
good and agreeable ; his geniality is for every hour 
of every day. 

All the world owes him a debt of gratitude 
for his work in making the Post Office look up 
sharp after its business a debt it has thus far 
very imperfectly recognised. By next Christmas, 
or the Christmas after that, he hopes that the 
English people throughout the Empire, if not 
throughout the world, shall exchange their Christ- 
mas greetings over the cables at a cost of five 
shillings, including the charge for the address. It 
is a pretty touch of sentiment, and my only griev- 
ance is that all these boons and blessings to men 
are making the world steadily smaller. The world 
was quite a big place once, and months and months 
were occupied in covering this journey across the 
mid-Atlantic, which we hope to complete in less 
than a fortnight. 

For Mr. Jesse Ceilings everybody has an affec- 
tionate word. He is like the grandfather of the 
ship, spreading wherever he goes the benign influ- 
ence of a genial personality. And he is the author, 
too, of a solemn book of facts and figures, which 
every one has not the industry to read, nor perhaps 
the intelligence to appreciate. None the less, it is 

11 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

important, not so much for the remedies Mr. Col- 
lings suggests as for the striking way in which he 
has made clear the evil he attacks. The doctors 
sometimes say, when they have a stubborn ailment 
they cannot diagnose : " It is often easy to cure a 
disease, or at all events to relieve it ; the real diffi- 
culty is to discover what is the disease." 

Mr. Collings wonders what on earth is going 
to happen to dear old England if all the people in 
the country flock into the towns, leaving the land 
to go out of cultivation. No kindred misfortune 
could compare with this. So much for the disease ! 

The cure, according to Mr. Collings, was a re- 
vival of the old yeomanry class, and the keeping 
of the labourer on the land ; he advocated various 
measures designed to procure him a healthy little 
cottage, with perhaps the historic " three acres of 
land and a cow." He has a new remedy, or an 
additional remedy now ; but every generation has 
its own particular cure, none of which is ever tried. 
And so the years roll on, and nothing is done. 
While times are good, and food and money are 
plentiful, no one seems to care ; but there is danger 
always in leaving till to-morrow a duty that belongs 
to to-day, as the blood-stained page of the French 
Revolution would show. 

The House of Commons is also represented 
among us by Mr. W. Howell Davies, one of the 
members for Bristol, a man with a sound business 
head and no pride in the mere gift of public speech. 

Municipal life has its representatives in Sir 
Thomas Hughes, an ex-Lord Mayor of Liverpool, 
and Mr. Alderman Adnitt, an ex-Mayor of North- 
ampton, foremost in all good work in the town 
of his adoption, if not of his birth. 

The Hon. Evelyn Ellis is one of the most promi- 
nent landowners in Jamaica, who has rendered the 

12 



GUESTS AND FELLOW-PASSENGERS 

island great service in the introduction at great 
cost of Mysore cattle on his estates at Montpelier. 
He has a quaint humour, and nothing is more 
savagely amusing than his account of how Jamaica, 
with its flock of absentee landlords, trains managers 
into ways that are like the ways of the heathen 
Chinee " peculiar." 

Viscount Mountmorres is another author. He 
has recently written a book on the Congo, and in 
the main it is, I take it, an effort, vain though it 
be, to exonerate the King of the Belgians from the 
accusation of torture and crime. Judgment, how 
ever, has been passed, and, to the honour of Europe, 
the hour of expiation is near. 

Other memories of West Africa are revived in 
the presence among us of Mr. William Cleaver, a 
tiny man with a head that instantly attracts atten- 
tion. Mr. Cleaver has many interesting stories to 
tell of Lord Wolseley's grand march from the 
Gold Coast into the land of the Ashantees in 
1873. The physical contrast is found in Mr. 
Charles Lancaster, who is among the poplars in 
uprightness. He is a merchant in Liverpool, and 
has been on the move in all parts of the world for 
more than thirty years, with few or no periods of 
rest, gathering up all along the way a wealth of 
anecdote and observation. 

Of my immediate neighbours at table, one is 
Captain J. E. Mackenzie in the winter a sugar 
planter in Jamaica, and in summer an indefatigable 
yachtsman around the British coast, of which he 
seems to know every harbour and nook. He knows 
Douglas Bay, and I recall his vivid description of 
coming into the harbour one evening in August 
the dazzling lights of an Aladdin's palace, the music 
of bands, and the gay laughter of thronged pro- 
menades. " I was an unpopular man on my own 

13 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

boat," he said to me, " the day I ordered the anchor 
' up and away ! ' 

Mr. Alexander Crum-Ewing is another planter, 
a Scotsman too, a landowner on both sides of the 
Atlantic. Hard-headed, practical-minded, business- 
loving, progressive Lancashire has its worthy 
representative in Mr. James Lawrence, who in 
Chorley is a spinner of the finest Sea Island cotton. 
Lieut. Ward is an English officer with family 
ties in Jamaica. Captain W. W. Rhodes, after 
valiant work in the South African War, now up 
holds the flag of trade in our western Colony. 

This chronicle of guests and fellow-passengers 
must fittingly include the name of Mr. J. McDowell 
Nathan. The enterprise of this man was one of 
the moving factors of commercial Jamaica. But 
he, and Dr. Savage, of Birmingham, and others 
with us on our outward voyage, disappeared in the 
prevailing sorrow and gloom of Kingston a week 
or fortnight later. 

Mr. Ralph Sidebottom and Mr. E. Bicker 
Caarten were among Sir Alfred's upholders from 
Lancashire who suffered more or less serious injury, 
though each made a rapid recovery. In that same 
category of close friends of our host on the ship I 
must also make mention of Mr. J. A. Hutton and 
Mr. E. Lomas Oliver, both prominently identified 
with the cotton industry, as well as Mr. Tod, who 
is connected with the art of cotton print designing 
and engraving. Mr. F. Swanzy and Mr. H. Cot- 
terell are associated with West African trade ; 
Mr. C. H. Rugg is engaged in London in all the 
mysteries of shipbrokerage, chartering, &c. Sir 
Ralph Moore, K.C.M.G., has acquired fame as an 
administrator in Africa. 

Mr. M. C. Solomon is an encyclopedia of know- 
ledge relating to the Government medical service 



GUESTS AND FELLOW-PASSENGERS 

of Jamaica. Mr. H. Berger is an exporter of log- 
wood, Mr. A. Pawsey, Mr. A. N. Dixon, and 
Mr. H. J. Rudolph are planters, and Mr. P. G. 
Austin is an official of the Colonial Bank in 
Kingston. 

Mr. Lloyd Owen is a gain to the good-fellowship 
of any ship's company. He has seen phases of life 
new to all of us in the chilly gold-mining camp 
of Klondike and in the heated, fever-laden atmo- 
sphere of the rich gem-yielding rivers of the most 
inaccessible parts of Colombia, that South American 
republic whose unexplored wealth is destined to 
be the world-wonder of another generation and 
of all his travels in search of precious stones he 
has stories, quaint, vivid, and amusing. 

Nor can I forget* the invariable courtesy and 
consideration of Mr. Picton Hughes-Jones, nephew 
of Sir Alfred, and to whom, next after our host 
himself, is our comfort due. Mr. Picton Hughes- 
Jones is of Messrs. Elder, Dempster. His coolness 
and capacity served Sir Alfred well in one moment 
of imminent peril. And though the passenger list 
does not show it, and the unintentional secret is 
well kept, my right-hand neighbour is Sir Hudson 
Kinahan, Bart., who is more interested in the 
prospects of tarpon-fishing than in the revival of 
cotton-growing. 

But happily we are not a mere group of men. W e 
have Mrs. James Lawrence, whose pretty frocks 
enhance a kindly grace of nature beloved by all, Mrs. 
A. A. Pearson, whose praise, like that of Mrs. J. A. 
Hutton, is on every one's lips, Miss Armitage, of 
high celebrity in that select world of dog-loving 
ladies where the breeding of a prize terrier is ranked 
above a coronet, the Hon. Mrs. Sidney Trench, 
Miss Crum-Ewing, and the youthful and beautiful 
Mrs. Ward, for whom the rolling billows have little 

15 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

charm. Nor must I forget our universal indebted- 
ness to the gracious and handsome Miss Bles, who 
has played the violin like an inspired tone-poet 
since she was a tiny tot, nor to mention Miss Leigh, 
the daughter of Sir Joseph Leigh, one of the pillars 
of trade and high-minded citizenship in Stockport, 
the cultured and kindly Miss Mabel Coulborn, the 
clever and vivacious Miss Margaret A. Rae, the 
quick-witted Miss Landale, and Miss Carter, the 
daughter of the Governor of Barbados, and I 
know not how many other fair companions of the 
ship. 

I have not said one word of our sports, but they 
are common to all passages of the sea. There is 
the inevitable gamble as to the run of the ship 
during the preceding twenty- four hours, and the 
traditional games on deck, cricket matches and 
quoits by day, and dances by night. Bridge is in 
season at any hour, day or night. I see it played in 
a corner of the music room, in the library, and in 
any niche on deck that affords light and shelter 
from the wind which is quite cool still as we plough 
our way through this trackless waste of waters. 



16 



Ill 

BARBADOS COTTON, SUNSHINE AND 
SHADOW 

FROM Avonmouth to the West Indies is one 
of the long non-stop voyages of the world, and, 
despite all the entertainments of the trip, most 
of us were glad enough to be awakened early on 
the morning of the 8th by the noise beneath our 
portholes. 

I hopped out of bed, and through the porthole 
caught my first glimpse of the tropics. Daylight 
was breaking, stars were fading into nothingness, 
and there before us were patches of white 
strand, with the cocoanut palm growing up from 
what seemed the very edge of the sea. 

This was Barbados ; and the town, a little to one 
side, was Bridgetown, the capital. Our bow was 
headed for the shore, and, coming up from the 
trackless ocean, we seemed to have chanced upon 
the island unawares. 

The moment my head appeared at the port it 
was greeted by a chorus of stentorian voices, each 
admonishing me to come ashore only in such-and- 
such rowing-boat ; all others must be slow or un- 
trustworthy or unsafe. 1 did not get my bath first 
that morning, for every one was up and breakfasting 
early. By 7.30 or 8 o'clock all the passengers were 
on deck, including my little friend. 

17 B 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

" Don't you think it very lucky," she said in a 
tone of great confidence, " we got here in daylight ? 
See how close is the land 1 We would have been 
fast on the shore and quite wrecked if we had gone 
a little further. Think of that ! " 

" But this island is on the map," I said reassur- 
ingly, in defence of our navigating officers. 

" Oh ! everything is on the map,"she wenton rather 
impatiently, " but we couldn't have gone right over 
it on that account, and in the dark any more than 
we could in the day." 

That argument is irrefutable. I left my imagina- 
tive little tutor conjuring up all sorts of fancies, 
disagreeable impressions of wrecked passengers 
hastily making homes in a dark forest and waging 
gory fights with troops of terrifying wild Indians 
with tomahawks. 

We all made for the shore, nevertheless, in one 
or other of the little boats at call. Within the 
narrow basin, and approaching the harbour steps, 
we found every jetty thronged with thousands 
of natives, all white save the faces, which 
gleamed like black satin. As we came alongside 
the din of voices was quite indescribable. Every one 
seemed to be talking at once, and no one seemed 
to listen. The excitement was apparently intense. 
Yet every face was a smile from ear to ear. We 
would never have secured foothold on the land in 
the midst of such a crowd in this wild hubbub, had 
not the mounted police come forward to our rescue. 
They soon made a way for us from the steps to the 
carriages in waiting. 

When we had once got clear of the crowds on 
the edge of the jetties we discovered that the cause 
of all this commotion was the departure of a body 
of labourers to work on the canal at Panama. At a 
moderate guess at least ten if not a hundred women 

18 




ARRIVAL AT BARBADOS 

The harbour of Bridgetown appears to be a kind of Clapham Junction for this 
lower section of the West Indian Colonies. (Seep. 17.) 




ARRIVAL AT JAMAICA 



Both Photts by If. S. Camfibell 



" When we reached Kingston, bunting was spread to the breeze, bands played 
on our decks and on the wharf as we came to our mooring." (See p. 214.) 



BARBADOS 

must have come down to the coast to give each 
husband or brother a send-off. 

Before 8.30 A.M., an hour at which some good 
people at home would think themselves virtuous if 
they were awake, let alone at breakfast, we were all 
gathered in the hall of the House of Assembly, 
listening to speeches about cotton-growing. The 
chairman, in his capacity as the head of the Bar- 
bados Cotton Company, Ltd., was the Hon. F. J. 
Clarke, M.C.P., the Speaker of the House of 
Assembly. Sir Daniel Morris, the Commissioner 
of Agriculture, was now of our party, and he, and 
many of those whose names I have given, harangued 
us, whilst most of the ladies on the ship graced the 
meeting, though I fancy they, like the most of us, 
had small idea of what was doing. Every window 
was thrown open, the indescribable sunshine was on 
trees and houses around us, and the sonorous chimes 
of church belfry reminded us how early we were 
astir, and what good and enterprising Britons we 
all were. 

Sir Alfred Jones presented a number of gold 
medals for cotton-growing to Dr. Gooding, of 
Stirling Plantation, St. Philip, who had obtained 
from 86 acres an average yield of 337 lb. of lint 
per acre (realising Is. 3d. per pound), and to Captain 
G. A. O. Lane, of Sewell, Christchurch, for the 
same average yield from a trial plantation of eight 
acres (realising Is. 5d. per pound). In St. Vincent 
the awards went to Mr. Alexander Smith, of the 
Argyle Estate, for a plantation of 225 acres, yield- 
ing 211 lb. per acre, at Is. 3d. per pound; and to 
Mr. Charles Layne, who on a trial of only 2 J acres 
obtained an average yield of 343 lb. per acre at 
Is. 4d. per pound. The Antigua medal was 
awarded to the Gilbert Estate, and the Nevis 
award to Mr. Crum-Ewing. 

19 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Thereafter we broke up into parties, some to see 
the cotton-ginning, some to take breakfast with Sir 
Gilbert Carter, the Governor ; others, like myself, 
were invited to take another breakfast in the cool 
shade of Sir Daniel Morris's home. 

Many of us inquired our way to the post-office to 
despatch letters home via New York ; and few of us, 
for the joy of young friends left behind, forgot to 
liberally bestrew the envelopes with a beautiful 
variety of Barbadian stamps, not forgetting the 
much-wished-for specimens of the ^d. variety. 

Bridgetown is relieved by a refreshing sea breeze. 
We found the heat in the streets intense notwith- 
standing. No wonder that many of us sought 
out by instinct the Ice-house or Decosta's store, 
there to experience the delight of refreshing 
liqueurs still undiscovered by the temperate zone. 

Then back to the ship. 

Our visit to Barbados was a happy change from 
the monotony of the sea. Yet it was a relief to 
be on shipboard again, and feel the fresh sea breeze 
once more. 

" It was hot in those streets, wasn't it," said my 
little chum, when we were once more comfortably 
settled in our chairs, amid our cushions and our 
books. 

" Yes," I said ; " and yet they call Bridgetown 
cool cool for the tropics I suppose they mean." 

"How can they say it is cool? I call that a 
most shocking story. It must be always hot, very 
hot, awfully, dreadfully, fiery hot ! Why, did you 
ever see such black faces ? I kept up my sunshade 
all the time." 

"Not at Sir Gilbert Carter's breakfast ?* I said 
teasingly. 

Of course not. Silly ! But even in the shops, 
in case I might forget when I got back into the 

20 




DIVING BOYS 




PJtotos by //'. 5. Cantpbtll 



AN ALARM OF SHARK ! 

The nose of the shark is just visible behind the swimmers, a little to the right. 



BARBADOS 

streets. But mother is most neglectful, most 
neglectful," she repeated with assured dignity. 
And then she added in a whisper, as though she 
were communicating a great secret of the toilet, " I 
told Mums she will have a face as black as as 
coal, if she is not more careful." 

" But it isn't the sun that makes their faces 
black," I said. 

" Now I call that una una " 

" Unadulterated," I suggested. 

" Yes, unadulterated nonsense ! That is another 
story you have told me. You do tell some awful 
fibs. Mother says you do." 

My guilty conscience was touched. Who could 
justify himself before so winsome an accuser ? 

" If it isn't the sun," said the little maid as a 
final act of decapitation, " I should like to know 
what it is." 

That was a long story, so I was demolished. 

Many new passengers joined us at Barbados 
Some of them were awaiting our ship at Bridgetown 
for days. The harbour of Bridgetown appears to 
be a kind of Clapham Junction for this lower 
section of the West Indian colonies. Our com- 
panions now included residents from St. Lucia, St. 
Vincent, Granada, and Trinidad, not forgetting 
little Tobago, an island that must ever conjure 
up fragrant, imperishable memories as the home 
of " Robinson Crusoe." 

Then came a period of pain. 

Picture to the mind's eye a beautiful summer 
morning, our decks canopied to shelter us from the 
heat and glare of a tropical sun, a fresh breeze and 
a sea that is not rough, yet far from being smooth. 
I was reclining in an easy-chair on the upper deck, 
and noted that several of the ship's crew, as they 

21 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

passed before me, stopped and leaned over the rail 
to observe two of their fellows at work on the 
ship's side. I too had noted the men, and con- 
cluded that they must be preparing for our landing 
at Kingston. The waves, as we sped on, came 
up rather closely, but no one anticipated danger. 

Suddenly one of the bare-footed men leaning 
over the rail stood up, and, facing the bridge, called 
out in a hoarse, excited voice, " Man overboard ! " 
The book in my hands fell to the deck as I stood 
up and rushed to the side, and that same hoarse 
voice continued the cry to the very foot of the 
bridge, " Man overboard ! " " Man overboard 1 " 

The man's head was instantly visible to me on 
the water, and as he glided on the white foam from 
us, or rather we from him, I heard the hasty 
summons to the engine-room, and its reply back 
to the bridge, as two life-belts were thrown over 
the side in the direction of the man in the water. 
I saw that he passed free of our propellers, and 
that same moment our throbbing engines were 
still. Passengers crowded the deck, and every 
member of the crew was available at some point of 
our ship, which was instantly crowded with eager 
spectators of one of life's dramas. The order was 
given to prepare a boat on the starboard side near 
the spot at which the man was swept from his 
foothold, but before that was ready a boat on the 
port side, which was more sheltered, had got clear 
away in charge of the plucky chief officer, Little. 
Meanwhile our ship was turning on her starboard 
helm, and the course of our way across the water 
was forming the beginning of a large oval. 

Of the man in the sea 1 could now see nothing. 
Never did 1 feel more acutely the lack of the gift 
of distant vision, but then no eye could long 
discern so tiny an object as a man's head amid the 

22 



BARBADOS 

foam and restless waves. Still, I did not even now 
foresee any danger, and had I been myself in the 
water I should have been anxious, but without the 
faintest glimmer of alarm. Not till I found that 
our ship had now lost all way, and that we were 
signalling to the boat far away, did I realise that 
we had lost sight of the dark head, and, having 
lost sight of it, how problematical it was that we 
could ever see it again. 

No one dared to speak. The intense, suppressed 
emotion was terrible. By this time twenty minutes 
or more must have elapsed. " He may be gone," I 
thought, " or he may be still afloat, gently breast- 
ing the wave, keeping up till the hand of succour 
reaches out to him." 

How can I describe those awful moments ! 
Danger, real, imminent, and pressing, was with 
me now in all its dread reality. And when I 
looked for confidence among the faces of officers 
and crew I found their eyes scanning the water 
on points that might have been miles apart 1 

The boat came back to our side, stewards, 
passengers, and seamen lent a hand hauling the 
ropes, and the rescue party was back on our 
deck ; but he whom they had sought was not 
there. He was where ? Still breasting manfully 
and hopefully the cruel sea ? Or was he, as I now 
was made to fear, drifting listlessly on the bosom 
of the water, with eyes wide open, fixed, dazed, and 
dead? 

Our proud ship was a mere log in the water, 
when a moment later the answer came to my 
questionings. The ship's telegraph from the bridge 
to the engine-room rang out over the deathlike 
stillness of the ship in the overwhelming bitterness 
and sorrow. The heavy throb, once as agreeable as 
a lullaby, but oh 1 how cruel now 1 was resumed, 

23 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

and we were again on our way, one soul the less 
than one brief half-hour ago. 

I have been near death in nearly all its forms, 
by fire, by water, by after-damp, and have stood 
near, to my eternal humiliation and regret, at the 
call of duty, while the foul hand of the hangman 
has done its best and its worst. But though death 
has been near me in all its guises, and in all the 
accumulated sorrow of a coal-pit disaster, I never 
remember feeling the same sense of submission as 
at that moment when I went back to my seat and 
my book. 

The Angel of Death had passed over these 
waters; she had been in our midst; I had even 
felt the beat of her wing. She had claimed her 
toll, and passed on. 



IV 
JAMAICA: SPANISH SETTLEMENT 

HEGEL has compared the crossing of the Atlantic 
by Christopher Columbus to the passage of the 
Alps by Julius Caesar. " By both events new 
spheres were opened out for peoples ready to unfold 
capacities which were pressing for development." 

It was on May 3, 1494, that Columbus dis- 
covered Jamaica (Cha-maika, Xaymaca, Xamayca, 
" Island of Springs "), to which he himself gave 
the name of St. lago* Thus was prospectively 
opened up for us English a new chapter in that 
"epic of our history" called colonisation. 

Columbus, that patient, enduring, intrepid man, 
had, of course, no notion at all of benefiting us. 
Gold and a gold-mine were in his thoughts (less, 
however, for himself than as "a means of convinc- 
ing the Europeans that he was no impostor"). 
His sailors had dreams of enormous wealth for 
themselves ; and their anticipations of booty, or 
what not, were so far reasonable that they had 
been following, " God knows where," a leader who 
might, as Fray Boyle said, " hurl them all one day 
over that horrid precipice" which was supposed 
to represent the rim of the universe. Columbus 
discovered no gold-mine, but he had indeed dis- 
covered one of the fairest and most fertile islands 
in the world. 

25 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Washington Irving says (" Life and Voyages of 
Christopher Columbus ") : 

" Columbus had not sailed many leagues " it 
was from Cuba he was sailing " before the blue 
summit of a vast and lofty island at a great distance 
began to rise like clouds above the horizon. It 
was two days and nights, however, before he reached 
its shores, filled with admiration as he gradually 
drew near at the beauty of its mountains, the 
majesty of its forests, the fertility of its valleys, 
and the great number of villages with which the 
whole face of the country was animated. 

" On approaching the land at least seventy canoes, 
filled with savages, gaily painted and decorated 
with feathers, sallied forth more than a league from 
the shore. They advanced in warlike array, utter- 
ing loud yells and brandishing lances of pointed 
wood. The mediation of the interpreter, and a 
few presents to the crew of one of the canoes which 
ventured nearer than the rest, soothed this angry 
armada, and the squadron pursued its course 
unmolested." 

What natives were these ? There may have 
been among them certain of the Caribs (I am told 
that descendants of this fierce race are still to be 
found upon the island), but Peter Martyr, who 
wrote in 1488, tells us that Jamaica was peopled 
by a race of Indians, gentler, more benevolent, and 
more enlightened than any whom discoverers had 
elsewhere met with. The opinion of Columbus 
(and early navigators have corroborated it) was 
that the natives found on the islands of Jamaica, 
Cuba, Hispaniola, and Porto Rico were scions of one 
race, " differing materially from the Caribbean in- 
habitants of those Windward and Leeward smaller 
islands which prolong the great chain of the 
Antilles to the southern continent, whence this 

26 



JAMAICA: SPANISH SETTLEMENT 

fierce race of cannibals probably passed over. The 
more gentle people who inhabited the larger islands 
most likely migrated from the great hive of Mexico, 
Yucatan and Florida presenting the nearest points 
from which they would embark " (Sir S. D. Scott, 
" To Jamaica and Back "). 

Whoever the natives were, the Spaniards in the 
long run exterminated and extirpated them. It 
was their way, wherever they set foot. Columbus 
himself, to be sure, had another method ; and his 
son Diego, who, after the great explorer's death in 
1506, was created viceroy of all the countries dis- 
covered by his father, sent out a governor, Juan de 
Esquiros, by whom the natives were kindly dealt 
with. 

The successors of Esquiros, one by one, gradually 
crushed the aborigines out of existence. " The 
story of the furious and wanton persecution which 
they endured is one of the most horrible in the 
dark annals of Spanish misrule " (" Her Majesty's 
Colonies "). The Spaniards, moreover, seem to 
have done their cruel work in the most light- 
hearted manner. A single anecdote from Arthur 
Helps shall suffice. In the first volume of the 
" Spanish Conquest in America " Helps shows us 
a certain good Dominican, Father Antonio, plead- 
ing before King Ferdinand the cause of the 
persecuted Indians. The monk had with great 
difficulty obtained access to the king, but 
Ferdinand received him kindly. 

" * Say, Father, what you will.' 

"Father Antonio accordingly produced his papers, 
and began to make his statement. In the course 
of it, as an illustration of the cruelty of the 
Spaniards towards the Indians, he mentioned that 
some Spaniards standing together joking, near a 
river, one oi them took up a little Indian child oi 

27 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

one or two years old, and, merely for the amuse- 
ment of the thing, threw it over the heads of the 
others into the water. He was heard to say, as he 
turned back and saw the little creature rising once 
or twice to the surface, ' You boil up, little wretch, 
do you ? ' (' Bullis, cuerpo de tal, bullis ?').... 

" Then the monk went on to say, ' Did your 
Highness command such things ? I am sure you 
did not.' 

" ' No, by God I nor ever in my life ! ' replied 
Ferdinand." 

With or without royal command or sanction, the 
work of extermination went forward, and when 
Jamaica became ours, in 1655, the native race 
" was practically extinct." 

Some writers have spoken of Jamaica as having 
" fallen into the possession " of the English. This 
is not quite accurate, although at a later date the 
eighteenth century it did really seem that, in 
Professor Seeley's words, we had " conquered and 
peopled half the world in a fit of absence of mind." 

Jamaica certainly does not stand for one of our 
most difficult conquests, though it can scarcely 
be said to have dropped into our hands. It was 
among the fruits of Cromwell's attack upon 
the Spanish Empire (in that century, the seven- 
teenth, which witnessed the growth of our colonial 
trade, our Navy, and our Empire), and his seizure 
of Jamaica is described by Seeley as "the most 
high-handed measure recorded in the modern 
history of England." But we had suddenly dis- 
covered that we were a military State, and to a 
stalwart Protestant Protector, who now felt him- 
self in a position not only to bark but to bite, the 
Spaniards presented themselves as the natural 
enemies of our Faith. 

To some extent our capture of Jamaica was 

28 



JAMAICA: SPANISH SETTLEMENT 

accidental, but the accident was doubtless of the 
inevitable sort Cromwell's expedition, under Ad- 
mirals Penn and Venables, was directed primarily 
against Hispaniola, but the commanders botched 
the affair " the attempt proved an utter failure." 
Something must be done to retrieve the disgrace 
and the expedition bore down upon Jamaica. 

For a hundred and sixty years the Spanish had 
been in possession of the island, but by this date 
they had fallen sadly from their ancient high estate, 
and the descendants of those Castilians who had 
added a new hemisphere to the dominions of 
Ferdinand and Isabella almost turned tail upon 
Venables and Penn. In a few days the English 
flag flew for the first time over St. lago de la Vega, 
and from that year Jamaica has been ours. 



29 



ENGLISH COLONISATION 

THE Spaniards having fled, we found the beauti- 
ful island almost empty. The original European 
conquerors had harried the original native popu- 
lation out of existence. There was, however, 
one somewhat formidable remnant of the negro 
horde whom the Spaniards had enslaved. These 
were the fugitive Maroons, who had escaped 
to the interior of the island, and who in their 
own fastnesses were for long an independent 
body, harassing the newcomers down to the very 
end of the eighteenth century. These were not 
delicate days, and at one period our planters 
were accustomed to hunt the Maroons with blood- 
hounds. 

Montgomery Martin ("British Colonies," iii.) 
gives us a singular picture of seventeenth-century 
manners in this typical plantation colony : 

"August 14, 1656. An order signed Edward 
D'Oyley, for distribution to the Army of 1781 
Bibles. 

"August 26, 1659. Order issued this day unto 
Mr. Peter Pugh, Treasurer, to pay unto John Hoy 
the sum of twenty pounds sterling, out of the im- 
post money, to pay for fifteen dogs, bought by him 
for the hunting of the negroes.'* 

It was in the yet unsettled era of the seventeenth 

00 



ENGLISH COLONISATION 

century that the buccaneers * found Jamaica an 
ideal spot for depositing their prizes and plunder. 
They were rather popular, both as free livers and as 
enemies of the Spaniards ; successive Governors of 
the island made them their auxiliaries ; and a buc- 
caneer of eminence, the son of a poor Welsh farmer, 
sold into servitude in Barbados, by name Henry 
Morgan (knighted for a successful raid at Panama) 
was Governor during the latter part of Charles II. 's 
reign. It was our humorous way of attempting to 
put down piracy. 

An earlier Governor was Colonel D'Oyley (the 
gentleman who distributed Bibles to the Army), 
under whom the first regular civil government of 
Jamaica was established. D'Oyley was appointed 
Governor- General in 1661, with an elective council; 
and here, by the way, it may be noted that to 
Jamaica have come as Governors many men of rank 
and ability. D'Oyley, for example, was succeeded 
by Lord Windsor, "a clever and sagacious ruler." 
Next in succession was Sir Thomas Modiford, " a 
man of even greater ability," who gave an impulse 
to agriculture. 

In 1673 was exported to England " the first pot of 
sugar," as a present from General Bannister to Lord 
Arlington, Secretary of State. The population had 
increased to nearly 18,000 in this year. Instead of 
exterminating, like the Spaniards, we were filling up. 
Lord Windsor, under instruction, had summoned 
a popular assembly to pass laws. In 1678, under 
Lord Carlisle, " an attempt was made to saddle the 
island with a yearly tribute to the Crown, and to 
restrict the free legislative power of the Assembly." 



loucaner. to cut into long pieces, salt, and smoke on a bucan, as beef 
a mode of preserving meat formerly practised by the Caribs, 
and afterwards by Europeans in the West Indies)." " Century Die* 
tionary," voj. i. 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Under Sir Thomas Lynch, four years later, the 
privileges of the Assembly were restored. 

The Duke of Albemarle, who landed as Governor 
in 1687 (the year, by the bye, in which Newton 
published his " Principia "), brought in his ducal 
train Dr. Hans Sloane afterwards Sir Hans 
collector, physician, and naturalist. Sloane, an 
Irishman of County Down, had already travelled 
through France, and was at this date a Fellow 
of the College of Physicians. An enthusiastic 
botanist, he may be said to have laid hands in this 
capacity upon Jamaica, which was veritably virgin 
ground. During his visit of fifteen months he 
got together some eight hundred new species of 
plants (what a happy botanist !), and of these he 
published an elaborate catalogue in Latin to say 
nothing of the "two sumptuous folio volumes" 
which recounted his experiences in the island. 

Sloane was one of the fortunate men. He 
succeeded Sir Isaac Newton as President of the 
Royal Society ; and although he contributed less 
than nothing to medicine, and would, in the nature 
of things, have been very soon forgotten as a 
botanist, he enjoys to this day a kind of distinction 
as a founder of the British Museum. To his lucky 
habit as a collector he owes much more than to his 
merit. 

In 1702 there was trouble with the French, 
who, under Du Casse, invaded Jamaica from 
Hayti. But the French had reckoned without 
John Benbow, who was for the second time our 
naval champion in the West Indies. The admiral's 
ship, Breda, gave chase off Santa Marta to the 
French squadron, and, albeit unsupported by his 
consorts, kept up a running fight for five days. 
The French escaped, but the affair cost us the life 
of brave Benbow. Mortally wounded, and with 

32 





Roth Photos by //'. 5. Campbell 



STREET SCENES IX KINGSTON 
1. Orange Si root (outside the Market). 



2. King Street. 



ENGLISH COLONISATION 

one leg completely shattered by a chain-shot, he 
ordered four of his captains to be tried by court- 
martial. Two were shot, one was cashiered, and 
the other died before trial. Benbow himself died 
of his wounds, and his gallant bones lie in Jamaica. 

Hurricane and the darker and more mysterious 
agencies of earthquake have at sundry times dealt 
disaster to the Colony. A dreadful visitation, for 
many years fearfully alluded to as the Great Earth- 
quake, left the island shaken throughout its entire 
length and breadth in June 1692. " In less than 
three minutes,' says Scott, "the gay, dissolute, 
rich, and populous town of Port Royal was a scene 
of desolation and utter ruin. Of the 1500 houses 
which Sloane recorded as existing in his time not 
two hundred were left. Solid wharves loaded with 
merchandise, massive fortifications, the church, 
with all the streets next to the shore, sank to the 
bottom of the sea, the ruins of which are even yet 
visible. The harbour appeared in motion as if 
agitated by a storm, yet no wind was stirring; 
mighty waves rose up and fell with such violence 
that ships broke from their anchors. . . . Two 
thousand people (some accounts say three thousand) 
perished by the effects of this earthquake." 

A malignant fever, occasioned by the vast 
number of corpses floating up and down the har- 
bour, caused almost as many deaths as the earth- 
quake. " One loss is still severely felt that of all 
the official documents and records of the island, a 
disaster rendering its early history obscure and in- 
complete." The greater part of the town of Port 
Royal, built on a shelving bank of sand, sank into 
the sea. In 1712 and 1722 there were terrific 
hurricanes, and the second of these caused the seat 
of commerce to be shifted from Port Royal to 
Kingston. 

33 C 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Just sixty years later, in 1782, Jamaica was 
threatened with invasion by the combined fleets of 
France and Spain under de Grasse. This time it 
was Rodney and Hood to the rescue ; their great 
victory off Martinique, April 12, is one of the 
shining events in the history of the Colony. As 
the enemy's ships were crowded with troops for 
the attack on Jamaica, the slaughter was tre- 
mendous. It was one of the rakingest sea-fights 
on record. Let us have the words of Rodney's 
report to the Governor of Jamaica. 

" After having had a partial engagement with 
the enemy on the 19th, wherein sixteen of my rear 
were prevented by calms from joining in the action 
on the 12th, I had the good fortune to bring them 
to a general action, which lasted from seven o'clock 
in the morning till half-past six in the evening with- 
out intermission. Count de Grasse, with the Ville 
de Paris and four other ships of the line, and one 
sunk, graced the victory. The remainder of the 
fleet was so miserably shattered, and their loss of 
men so very great, from their having their whole 
army, consisting of 5500 men, on board the ships of 
war, that I am convinced it will be almost impos- 
sible to put them in a condition for service for 
some long time to come." 

Rodney was raised to the peerage, and his 
statue has the singular interest of having tried a 
change of air. It was first erected at Spanish 
Town, a proper and natural site for such a monu- 
ment ; but during the last century it was moved 
to the new capital, and for some time occupied 
a prominent position overlooking the Kingston 
harbour. Now it is back again at Spanish Town, 
and there it stands to this day, one of the most 
honoured relics of the heroic past. 

At this date, well on into the reign of George III., 

34 




THE RODNEY MONUMENT AT SPANISH TOWN 
' One of the most honoured relics of the heroic past." (See p. 34.) 




Roth Photos by /F. .9. Campbell 
THE OFFICERS' QUARTERS AT THE I'P PARK CAMP 



ENGLISH COLONISATION 

we had grown into a great colonising Power. 
Providence had " staid us in that felicity," which 
Milton picturing England as standing " with all 
her daughter-lands about her" had so devoutly 
prayed for. From the fifteenth century (with the 
mariner's compass, the printing press, and gun- 
powder as the three supreme instruments in aid) 
European civilisation had been gradually diffusing 
itself over the face of the inhabited and habitable 
world. 

The ambitious task of guiding this world fell 
mainly to five Cations Portugal, Spain, France, 
Holland, and Britain. In later colonial history 
Portugal makes a small figure ; but, as Mr. Cal- 
decott so generously says, " the historian of 
colonisation will always have a warm regard for 
the gallant little pioneer nation the land of 
Prince Henry, of Diaz, of Da Gama, and of 
D'Albuquerque " (" English Colonisation and 
Empire"). 

Spain won for herself in Central and Southern 
America an almost boundless field. Her record in 
this field, "gorgeous with show of wealth, and 
sometimes splendid with heroism," is also " stained 
indelibly with cruelties, and gloomy with almost 
inexplicable failures." But are these failures really 
so " inexplicable " ? In the best of circumstances, 
where could Spain have found a population to fill 
her dominions in the New World ? What products 
of domestic industry had she to exchange against 
products of South America ? 

As for ourselves, we continued to escape all 
kinds of dire possibilities. We had a prolonged 
struggle with Holland, a tremendous struggle with 
France ; but the splendid development of our 
naval power gave us the victory over all European 
rivals in colonisation. Undoubtedly we made 

85 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

blunders, and for these blunders we paid the very 
fullest price. 

We had begun, for example, by regarding and 
treating our settlements in North America and 
the West Indian islands as, in the main, " a part 
of the machinery of trade." While we could get 
something out of them lumber, sugar, wool 
they were useful enough; and they were useful 
also as "sanctuary for religious refugees." We 
subjected them to sundry unjust restrictions of 
trade, our policy towards them was one of " un- 
disguised materialism " ; and in the course of time 
we were not unnaturally called upon to pay the 
price of this indecent treatment. For, at the 
period we are now arrived at, we were just about 
to sign away, by the treaty of 1783, those thirteen 
fine and promising colonies in North America 
which then made by far the greater part of our 
Empire though they are but a small district of 
the United States of to-day. 

The secession of these American settlements 
brings to a close the first chapter in our history of 
colonisation. Upon the second chapter we entered 
with juster notions and with wiser aims. If we 
now clearly perceived that in " fighting for trade " 
and really that was what we had been fighting 
for during all the early days we had acquired a 
boundless dominion, we also perceived not less 
clearly that settlements across the ocean involved 
us in a variety of grave responsibilities, that our 
ancient policy, with its basis of callous materialism, 
would no longer do. 

At this era our dominion in the West Indies 
was almost our sole settled one. This is, therefore, 
peculiarly our " West Indian period." Of this 
period what is the distinctive and dominating 
feature ? It is, alas ! slavery and the slave trade. 

36 



ENGLISH COLONISATION 

We made ourselves or perhaps it would be fairer 
to say that we gradually and more or less uncon- 
sciously became the great slave-trading Power. 

To this subject I must now for a moment turn 
and deal with as frankly as I may, because to this 
period above all others belongs the unenviable dis- 
tinction of creating internal or domestic problems 
which have not even yet produced their full crop 
of bewildering complications. 



VI 
SLAVERY 

IT is not long after the disappearance of serfdom 
in the most advanced communities of Europe (in 
England it decayed and died out with no need 
of any special legislation against it) that the new 
system of colonial slavery comes into view. This 
system, says Dr. Ingram, " instead of being the 
spontaneous outgrowth of social necessities and 
subserving a temporary need of human develop- 
ment, was politically as well as morally a monstrous 
aberration, and never produced anything but evil." 

It is the " peculiar phenomenon " of the history 
of the New World. Seeley describes it as " that 
great disease of the infancy of communities which 
was a kind of incubus upon the Empire throughout 
the eighteenth century"; and elsewhere ("Our 
Colonial Expansion ") as the greatest of our crimes 
in colonisation an " atrocity." 

We had borne our part in the slave trade as far 
back as Elizabeth's reign, but for some fifty years 
from that time we had no colonies in which the 
demand for slave labour could arise. The first 
colonies of Spain, for instance, were mining colo- 
nies, and here, accordingly, we find the slave in the 
very beginning. Many negroes had been brought 
into Spain from the Portuguese settlements in 
Africa, and the colonial slave trade first appears 

38 



SLAVERY 

" in the form of the introduction into the newly- 
discovered western world of children or descendants 
of these negroes." 

Our own participation in the horrid traffic grew 
up gradually in the seventeenth century. The 
Treaty of Utrecht (1713) definitely established it. 
Under this arrangement the Asiento, or contract 
for supplying slaves to Spanish America, was 
granted to the subjects of Great Britain for the 
term of thirty years. Thenceforward the slave 
trade became, in Lecky's words, " a central object 
of English policy." For a period of seventy years 
we took the lead in it ; "and I am afraid," observes 
Seeley, " stained ourselves beyond other nations in 
the monstrous and enormous atrocities" of this 
traffic. The historian adds : " This simply means 
that we were not better in our principles in this 
respect than other nations, and that, having now 
at last risen to the highest place among the trad- 
ing nations of the world, and having exacted the 
Asiento from Spain by our military successes, we 
accidentally obtained the largest share in this 
wicked commerce. It is fair that we should bear 
this in mind while we read the horror-striking 
stories which the party of Abolition afterwards 
published." 

It was shortly before the war of American 
Independence that our slave trade reached its 
utmost extension. Something like 200 ships from 
Liverpool (the chief port), London, Bristol, and 
Lancaster had space provided for the transport 
of nearly 50,000 negroes. The number fell off 
during the war, only to rise again immediately on 
its termination. 

During the last decade of the eighteenth century 
there were forty European " factories " or stations 
on the coasts of Africa ; of these fifteen were Dutch, 

89 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

four Portuguese, four Danish, three French, and 
fourteen English. More than half the export trade 
was in our hands; the Dutch, with their fifteen 
factories, did not send out more than some 4000 
negroes annually. 

Touching the effects of this dreadful commerce, 
Dr. Ingram writes in the ninth edition of the 
" Encyclopaedia Britannica " : 

" The hunting and stealing of human beings to 
make them slaves, which were already practised in 
Africa for the supply of the central States of that 
continent, as well as of the markets of Northern 
Africa, Turkey, and other Mohammedan countries, 
were greatly aggravated by the demand of the 
European colonies. The native chiefs engaged in 
forays, sometimes even on their own subjects, for 
the purpose of procuring slaves to be exchanged 
for Western commodities. They often set fire to 
a village by night, and captured the inhabitants 
when trying to escape. Thus all that was shocking 
in the barbarism of Africa was multiplied and 
intensified by this foreign stimulation." 

Then there were the well-known horrors of the 
middle passage. At least 12J per cent, of the 
slaves were lost during their voyage to the West 
Indies ; and in Jamaica some 4J per cent, died in 
the harbours or before being sold, and one-third 
more in the process of " seasoning." Out of every 
hundred shipped from Africa, seventeen died in 
about nine weeks, and " not more than fifty lived 
to be effective labourers in the islands." 

Nor did life on the plantation favour the 
increase of their numbers, Thus, in 1690 there 
were some 40,000 slaves in Jamaica ; from that 
year until 1820 not fewer than 800,000 were 
imported ; yet 4< at the latter date there were only 
340,000 in the island." One cause, says Ingram, 

40 



SLAVERY 

which prevented the natural increase of population 
was the inequality in the numbers of the sexes. 
In Jamaica alone in 1789 the males were in excess 
to the number of 30,000. 

It is not in the writings of persons in any way 
identified with the system that we need look for 
true pictures of the hopeless and irremediable 
existence of the slave. Look, for instance, at 
Bridges's " Annals of Jamaica." 

The Rev. George Wilson Bridges, A.M., was a 
clergyman of the Established Church, a member 
of the Universities of Oxford and Utrecht, and 
rector of the parish of St. Ann, in Jamaica. He 
wrote some years before the slaves had been 
liberated, and must' have known pretty well what 
slavery was like, even if he did not own slaves 
himself, as I have been told he did. Yet it is from 
his pages that the unctuous passage which follows 
is extracted. After a reference to slavery under 
the Moslems, he goes on : 

"The negroes, on the other hand, who have 
been brought to Christian isles have exchanged a 
barbarous and bloody bondage, probably a death 
of human sacrifice, lor that mild servitude which 
could alone instil into their savage minds the arts 
of industry and the mild religion of the Gospel." 

Let us glance at some of the outstanding 
features of this " mild servitude " in Jamaica. The 
slave, dignified by the name of "servant," went 
naturally and of course to the highest bidder. 
Throughout the Colony, says Gardner (" History 
of Jamaica "), field negroes were looked upon as 
beasts of burden, and, as such, " might be goaded 
to excessive toil if the case seemed to require it." 
The " case," of course, was considered solely by 
the overseer. The free use of the whip was per- 
fectly legal, and the Slave Code, passed in 1696, 

41 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

"was cruel in the extreme; it gave the master 
almost unlimited power, and sanctioned some of 
the most horrid enormities ever tolerated by law." 

Certain tortures (possibly not often inflicted, 
and of which, on the spot, I have not succeeded 
in getting any trustworthy account) are passed 
over in all modern works I have referred to as 
" nameless " ; but for a slave to strike a white 
person, or even to have stolen goods in possession, 
was an offence "punishable either with death or 
any other punishment the judges might wish to 
inflict, dismemberment being particularly speci- 
fied." Ears were cut off, legs sometimes ; noses 
were split or otherwise mutilated; branding on 
forehead and cheeks was a common penalty. Two 
planter magistrates sitting in a slave court could 
put to death by hanging or by burning. " In 
fact," observes Gardner, " all kinds of demoniacal 
cruelty came within the scope of * death or any 
other punishment.' ' 

The commonest of all inflictions was flogging. 
Every driver carried his whip, but this was not the 
only instrument of corporal punishment. Sloane 
("Voyage," &c.), who has written in detail on 
what he euphemistically terms the discipline of 
the Jamaican estates, speaks of the whipping of 
the slaves for negligence. " For negligence slaves 
are usually whipped by the overseers with lance- 
wood switches till they be bloody, and several of 
the switches broken, being first tied up by their 
hands in the mill-houses." 

" After they. are whipped till they are raw, some 
put on their skins pepper and salt to make them 
smart; at other times their masters will drip 
melted wax on their skins, and use several very 
exquisite tortures." 

Was this the Rev. Mr. Bridgets notion of the 

42 



SLAVERY 

"mild servitude " of a Christian isle? "For 
running away," continues Sloane, " they put irons 
of great weight on their ankles, or pottocks about 
their necks, which are iron rings with two long 
necks riveted to them, or a spur in the mouth/' 
This penalty was varied by cutting off half the foot 
with an axe. For the capital offence of rebellion, 
negroes were slowly roasted to death. The victim 
was staked down to the ground, " with crooked 
sticks on every limb. They then applied fire by 
degrees, from the feet and hands, burning them 
gradually up to the head, whereby their pains are 
extravagant." Had the rector of St. Ann's ever 
heard of these Christian methods ? 

I note, too, that the highly educated Sloane, the 
man who was to succeed Sir Isaac Newton in the 
presidential chair of the Royal Society, records 
these things without a touch of compassion. 
" These punishments are sometimes merited by 
the blacks, who are a very perverse generation of 
people, and though they appear harsh, yet are 
scarce equal to some of their crimes, and inferior 
to what punishments other European nations in- 
flict on their slaves in the East Indies." 

It has to be observed that the female slave was 
treated every whit as barbarously as the male. 
She was lashed and branded and mutilated. 
Late in the eighteenth century two women who 
had attempted to escape were " branded on both 
cheeks, and received thirty-nine lashes once a week 
for a month, and worked in chains." Another, for 
the same enormous offence, had both ears cut off. 
" She was placed in chains, and sentenced to receive 
thirty-nine lashes on the first Monday in each 
month for a whole year." 

Bridges has talked about instilling into the minds 
of these unhappy creatures " the mild religion of 

43 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

the Gospel." He omits to add, what was expressly 
laid down in the Code, that " no slave shall be free 
by becoming a Christian." The slave was a chattel 
and remained a chattel. 

Even slaves owned slaves miserable broken- 
down and discarded creatures, refuse lots sold to 
their brethren to work on small allotments. " Half 
starved, hard worked and covered with sores, they 
lingered in misery until death came to make them 
free. Some were so disfigured with yaws, or 
leprosy, that none but a negro could bear the 
sight of them ; these were kept out of the way and 
treated worse than mangy dogs " (" The West 
Indies and the Spanish Main," by James Rodway, 
p. 159). 

Marriage was scarcely known on the plantations. 
If not precisely forbidden, it seems to have been 
universally discouraged ; and the male slave who 
married without his master's consent " shall serve 
two years for the offence." 

It is quite true that the West Indian slave was 
often far better off as the slave of the white 
planter in Jamaica than as the slave of a black 
chief in West Africa. He did not often commit 
suicide, nor sink under the hardships of a life of 
toil in the burning sun, as did the white bond 
servants gathered from the precincts of Newgate 
Gaol. Englishmen, however, were not made to be 
slaves, and so troublesome were they to manage 
that planters soon showed a preference for the 
negro. Yet to this day I heard that there still 
survive in Barbados descendants of those Irish and 
Scottish warriors who fell before the victorious 
hosts of Cromwell at Drogheda in 1649, and at 
Worcester in 1651, presenting in themselves an 
interesting study in heredity and the influence of 
climate on race. 

44 




Photo by y. Jf. Cleary, Kingston 

THE CACTUS AS HKDGEROW 



SLAVERY 

The negro was often regarded as a domestic 
animal whose value was a guarantee against ill- 
usage. Like the horse of an English gentleman, 
he was well housed. The planter would take a 
pride in him, feed him and doctor him, pat him on 
the back and show him to his friends. The strong 
and healthy slave, far from feeling any sense of 
humiliation, took pride in exhibiting his great 
muscles and in showing the buccra's visitors what 
a fine nigger massa had got. But if, perchance, he 
fell from this proud estate, woe was his share ; and 
the planter's wife, like some fine ladies at home 
hastening to town to witness an execution, would 
stand at her window to see the punishment of her 
house-servant. 

Negroes sentenced to death by burning were 
sometimes allowed to linger in torment when 
torrential rain had put the fires out. Yet it must 
be said that the unhappy creatures, whatever the 
form of punishment, showed a stoical indifference 
to pain almost incredible to us, craving, perhaps, 
nothing more than a pipe of tobacco to hold 
between their teeth until it fell from their lifeless 
grip. Enough, however, of these atrocious details 
and " nameless " horrors. 

The day came when the British spirit rose against 
the crimes of slavery. We were not the inventors 
of these iniquities ; and it is perhaps, as Professor 
Seeley observes, some palliation of our guilt that 
we published it, repented of it, and did at last 
renounce it " It may be truly said," remarks 
Ingram, " that from the latter part of the seven- 
teenth century, when the nature of the slave trade 
began to be understood by the public, all that was 
best in England was adverse to it." 

Baxter, Steele, Pope, Thomson, Cowper (a per- 
sistent and dauntless advocate), Sterne, John 

45 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Wesley, Whitefield, Adam Smith, and Dr. Johnson 
were among the righteous on the side of the tor- 
tured, degraded, and almost dehumanised blacka- 
moor. The supreme names in the struggle for 
abolition are, of course, those of Clarkson and 
Wilberforce. It is grateful to remember that this 
year marks the centenary of the destruction of 
the most horrible commerce we have ever been 
engaged in. 

At half-past eleven on the morning of March 25, 
1807, the Bill for the abolition of the slave 
trade so far as Great Britain was concerned 
received the Royal assent. Clarkson and Wil- 
berforce had been fighting for it during well-nigh 
thirty years. The slave trade of Great Britain was 
smashed, to rise no more. 

Slavery itself was suffered to endure until 1833-4, 
when an apprenticeship system of four years was 
inaugurated, at the end of which time, 1838, the 
slaves became free men and women to the number 
of 255,290, at a cost to the British Treasury of 
some 5,853,975 by way of compensation to their 
owners. 



46 



VII 

"REBELLION" EXIT THE OLD 
CONSTITUTION 

JUST thirty-two years after the disappearance of 
slavery in Jamaica, in the autumn of 1865, during 
the Governorship of Mr. Eyre, occurred that very 
serious outbreak whkh was called a rebellion, and 
which did so nearly transform itself into one. The 
affair being very promptly suppressed was con- 
fined for the most part to the extreme south-eastern 
region of the island, the wide parish of St. Thomas- 
in-the-East. The white population in this part 
numbered fewer than 300 persons (many of whom 
were women and children), while of blacks and 
coloured people there were over 23,000. Mani- 
festly a rising of the latter against the former was 
not a matter to be lightly considered. 

Various causes may be assigned. Gardner, 
remarking that Governor Eyre's lot was cast in 
evil times, insists that never since the day of 
emancipation had the island been in circumstances 
of greater peril. For twenty years past, he says, 
the character of the House of Assembly had been 
deteriorating ; and the violent language so often 
heard there "was not without influence on the 
people at large." At public meetings in various 
districts " expressions of a very seditious character 
were commonly employed, and a turbulent spirit 
exhibited itself in many parts of the island." 

47 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

There were reasons, it seems, for complaint ; 
"for while the Assembly was wasting time in 
wrangling about its so-called privileges and rights, 
glaring abuses in almost all public institutions were 
unredressed, and very little was done to promote 
the social elevation or true prosperity of the 
country." 

The emancipated negroes, for their part, had 
not a few very genuine grievances. Planters were 
constantly, and on the flimsiest pretexts, defrauding 
them of their wages, and the planting magistrates 
gave them little or no redress. A recent Act had 
made punishable as theft the plucking of the wild 
fruits with which the island abounds ; " and many 
of the working people partly subsisted on the 
mangoes, oranges, &c., which grow everywhere." 
A negro sent to prison for taking a bit of sugar- 
cane might whistle on his release for any wages 
that were owing to him. These things were 
rankling in the minds of the coloured folk " and 
the Home Government," said missionary Carlile, 
" listens only to the planters' account of matters, 
and will make no inquiry into the causes of the 
people's disaffection." 

The man most directly concerned in the rising 
was a certain G. W. Gordon, son of " a great 
planting attorney " and a woman of colour. Gordon 
had been a landowner indifferently successful, a 
magistrate in six or seven parishes, a Church of 
Scotland man, a Congregationalist, and a Baptist, 
and his character in the island was not of the 
highest. He had been prominently connected with 
affairs in St. Thomas-in-the-East, and had certainly 
been haranguing the people. 

Rioting began on October 7, and on the llth 
there was a very ugly business at Morant 
Bay, when the court-house was attacked and a 

48 



EXIT THE OLD CONSTITUTION 

schoolroom near by set on fire. Eighteen persons 
(including Baron Ketelhodt, the custos of the 
parish) were killed by the coloured mob, and 
thirty-one more or less severely wounded. Among 
the cries heard were : " Colour for colour ! " " We 
are going to kill the white men, but not to hurt 
the ladies ! " " Buckra country for us ! " " Never 
mind the buckra women ; we can get them when 
we want 1 " 

The general alarm may be imagined. Authority, 
however, was very soon at work among the insur- 
gents, who were terribly dealt with. Martial law 
was proclaimed, and hangings, shootings, and 
floggings were the order of the day. In the 
district in which Celonel Hobbs operated sixty- 
eight persons were summarily put to death. In 
the extreme eastern district, in which Captain 
Hole was engaged, eighty-nine persons were tried 
by court-martial and executed ; many were flogged, 
"and among them about twenty women." At 
Bath men were flayed with " cats round which 
wires had been twisted." During the month of 
martial law, says Gardner, "eighty-five persons 
appear to have been put to death without trial, 
in some cases wantonly, in others under the 
impression that the act was justified. Three 
hundred and fifty-four others suffered death after 
trial by court-martial. In all about six hundred 
were flogged, and about one thousand cottages 
were burnt." 

Gordon himself, after a trial which lasted six 
hours, was found guilty of treason, sentenced to 
death, and executed. 

In England, when the news got there by 
Atlantic telegraph from America, the excitement 
over the outbreak was intense. A special commis- 
sion was sent out by Mr. Secretary Cardwell ; and 

49 D 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

the commissioners Sir Henry Storks (as Acting 
Governor), Mr. Russell Gurney (Recorder of the 
City of London), and Mr. J B. Maule (Recorder 
of Leeds) held their sittings in Spanish Town, 
"almost without intermission," from January 23 
until March 21. Reporters from several English 
newspapers were present, " and the utmost publicity 
was given to all the proceedings," Separate courts 
were held in one district and another, and fifty-one 
days in all were spent in the examination of 730 
witnesses. 

With regard to the plans taken to suppress the 
insurrection, the commissioners found that " by 
the prompt and rapid manner in which the different 
movements were executed the outbreak was over- 
come in a very short period." Commenting upon 
the notes of Gordon's case, they remarked that 
"the evidence, oral and documentary, appears 
wholly insufficient to establish the charge upon 
which the prisoner took his trial." They further 
found : 

" That by the continuance of martial law in 
its full force to the extreme limit of its statutory 
operation the people were deprived for a longer 
than the necessary period of the great constitu- 
tional privileges by which the security of life and 
property is provided for. 

" That the punishments inflicted were excessive. 

"That the punishment of death was unneces- 
sarily frequent. 

" That the floggings were reckless, and those at 
Rath positively barbarous ; and 

" That the burning of 1000 houses was wanton 
and cruel." 

In June 1866 Mr. Card well forwarded his de- 
spatch in reply to the commissioners' report. Her 
Majesty's Government, " while giving Mr. Eyre 

50 



EXIT THE OLD CONSTITUTION 

full credit for those portions of his conduct to 
which credit is justly due, feel compelled, by the 
result of the inquiry, to disapprove other portions 
of that conduct." 

Mr. Eyre was consequently not restored to the 
Governorship, which Gardner thinks he was to be 
commiserated for ever having accepted ; and in 
August 1860 Sir John Peter Grant (who had 
made a reputation in the Indian Civil Service, 
particularly in handling a crisis between the indigo 
planters of Bengal on the one hand and the ryots 
or cultivators employed by them on the other, a 
crisis which had occasioned Lord Canning more 
uneasiness than he had known since the days of 
Delhi) came out to rule in his stead. On De- 
cember 20 of the same year the Assembly passed 
an Act "rendering it lawful for the Queen to 
create and constitute a Government for the island." 
This was passed by the Council on the 22nd, 
and on the 23rd it received the consent of the 
Governor. 

Thus was swept away the constitution that had 
existed for two hundred years, and Jamaica virtu- 
ally became, and has remained, a Crown Colony. 



51 



VIII 
NOTABLE BOOKS, AND SOME OTHERS 

JAMAICA, this isle of woods and streams, most 
famous of our plantation colonies, has been the 
cause of abundant writing. In the British Museum 
catalogue under " J " nearly ten pages of double 
columns are devoted to works of all kinds about 
Jamaica. From the Department of Printed Books 
the curious inquirer may turn to the Manuscript De- 
partment, in the catalogue of which " Topography 
West Indies Jamaica" seven columns are 
partially filled. Long's histories, by the way, are 
here in much fuller state than in the printed works 
that bear his name. Not many readers, it may be 
taken for granted, will want all that the library 
contains upon this subject, but, as a result of 
delving in many nooks and crannies, a few hints 
may be offered to show the wide limits and general 
character of the island's literature. 

For the beginnings of our history in the active 
business of colonising there is nothing at once so 
important and so fascinating as the quaint and pre- 
cious volumes of Richard Hakluyt, Archdeacon of 
Westminster, and sometime student of Christ 
Church, Oxford, who began to publish in 1582, 
under the title of " Divers Voyages touching the 
Discouerie of America, and the Hands Adiacent 
vnto the same, made first of all by our Englishmen, 

52 



NOTABLE BOOKS, AND SOME OTHERS 

and afterwards by the Frenchmen and Britons : 
and certaine notes of aduertisements for obserua- 
tions, necessarie for such as shall heerafter make 
the like attempt " (an extremely rare volume, of 
which no copy has come up for sale by auction for 
more than twenty years, and now worth, I judge 
from a recent catalogue of Messrs. Henry Sotheran 
and Co., not less than 135), and in 1589 " The 
Principall Navigations, Y^oiages and Discoveries of 
the English Nation, made by Sea or ouer Land, to 
the most remote and farthest distant Quarters of 
the earth at any time within the compasse of these 
1500 yeeres" (a less rare work than the author's 
first publication, but still a most valuable possession). 
Hakluyt is now being reprinted at a moderate cost, 
and sundry volumes of selections from the " Voy- 
ages " have been issued in recent years. 

With regard to histories of Jamaica, a hint has 
been bestowed as to the limitations the biases 
rather on the dark topic of slavery and the slave 
trade that may be looked for in most of the 
earlier works. Books about Jamaica, written by 
men who had anything to do with slavery, or who 
had been during many years familiar with it, 
deal with all public events "as they affected the 
maintenance of that system." From our modern 
point of view all of these works are tainted 
some of them grievously, others in a less marked 
degree. 

Vernon's "New History of Jamaica," in one 
volume, dates back to 1740. A work oftener cited, 
and in all respects more remarkable, is the elaborate 
" History " of Long, in three volumes, which ap- 
peared thirty-four years later. Bryan Edwards's 
" History of the West Indies," also in three 
volumes, was published in Abolition year, 1807. 
Edwards's views, while not precisely those of the 

53 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

present day, are by no means illiberal, and his 
compendious history is of great value and interest. 

Reference has been made to, and a passage cited 
from, the Rev, G. W Bridges' s "Annals of 
Jamaica " (2 vols.), which bears the date 1827-28. 
In 1 828 the British slave trade had been twenty-one 
years abolished by Act of Parliament, but the 
reverend annalist writes as one of its most de- 
termined champions. Alas ! the record of the 
Established Church in this whole matter is not the 
brightest that might be shown. This much must 
be admitted though, no church has ever vied with 
it in learning, culture, poetry and piety, or put 
forward a better claim to being the church of the 
poor. But, in fetters itself, how could it preach 
freedom ? 

Let us remember, however, that certain great 
men at home were quite unable to appreciate nay, 
even to understand the wretched situation of the 
fettered negro. Carlyle's contemptuous fling at 
the " beautiful blacks sitting up to their beautiful 
muzzles in pumpkins " is not an utterance of his 
that we would cherish. 

" The Nigger Question " is the scornful title 
of the essay in which he emphatically declared that 
we did wrong to emancipate the negro. He works 
little, and lets the sugar crops rot, says Carlyle in 
effect ; let him be a slave, with the cart-whip 
flourished over his back. Carlyle, it is true, had 
not seen the whip at work, nor the pepper rubbed 
into the open wounds. Parson Bridges was on the 
spot, the easy rector of a parish in the island. 
Some groan from the mill-house must now and 
then have reached that none too delicate ear. But 
let the rector pass ; no one need any longer read 
those "Annals." 

A history that has been several times referred to, 

54 



NOTABLE BOOKS, AND SOME OTHERS 

W. J. Gardner's a modern work of 1873 or there- 
abouts, will amply satisfy the reader. Gardner 
came out as an agent of the London Missionary 
Society The name is still a grateful memory in 
Jamaica as that of one who laboured long and 
zealously for the good of the people, and his son 
is to-day one of the most respected citizens of 
Kingston. Beginning with Columbus, Gardner 
comes down to the affair that blighted the colonial 
career of Eyre ; and of special interest is his account 
of the manners, habits, and customs of the coloured 
people, and his narrative of the progress of religion 
and education in the Colony. 

For leisurely reading one cannot choose but 
recommend the four highly original and delightful 
volumes of Arthur Helps's " Spanish Conquest in 
America." Slavery was a subject which had a 
particular fascination for Helps. He gives a long 
essay to it in the first series of " Friends in Council." 
This in the course of time he expanded into a work 
in two volumes (1848 and 1852), called "The Con- 
querors of the New World and their Bondmen," 
and from this again he was carried on to farther 
investigations. He went to Spain to study original 
MSS. in Madrid, and "The Spanish Conquest in 
America, and its Relation to the History of Slavery 
and the Government of Colonies " is the finished 
fruit of his toils. His " Life of Hernando Cortes " 
will go far to reward readers who may be daunted 
by the magnitude of the "Conquest." Leisure 
also is needed for the " Life and Voyages of 
Christopher Columbus" (4 vols.), by that very 
elegant, felicitous, and picturesque writer Wash- 
ington Irving. These are books for the roaring, 
firelit nights of autumn. 

The record of missions and mission work in 
Jamaica is a curious one, and a good little volume 

55 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

on this theme is the story of the labours of the 
Rev. Warrand Carlile, missionary at Brownsville 
by " One of his Sons." Carlile was forty-six years 
of age when he sailed for Jamaica in 1842, but he 
lived to do thirty-eight years' work there. At the 
date of his arrival at Brownsville the slaves had 
been but a few years liberated, and some of his 
son's tales of their moral habits are electrifying. 

Christian missions were begun in Jamaica by the 
Moravians about 1754, and the earliest workers in 
this field had a somewhat mixed reception by the 
planters. " The planters," says Mr. Carlile's son, 
" were amazed when they found Christian men and 
their wives" Mr. Carlile's first wife, it may be 
noted, was a sister of the celebrated Edward 
Irving ** coming out to teach the slaves. Some 
received them in a friendly manner, as instructed 
in a few cases by the estate owners at home. The 
great majority, however, were bitterly opposed." 
The slaves undoubtedly owed their emancipation 
in great part to the persistent efforts of the 
missionaries. 

The natural history of this exquisite island, 
where the humming-bird dazzles arid the snake is 
without venom, and where anything and every- 
thing will grow, has engaged a few enthusiastic 
pens. The two tall volumes of Sloane have been 
mentioned. Brown (1754) was some half-century 
after him; Barham followed in 1794, Lunan in 
1814; and Gosse's "Journal of a Naturalist in 
Jamaica" (1851) and "Birds of Jamaica" (1847) 
are two books that no visitor to the island can 
dispense with some little knowledge of. 

There are sundry volumes of the jottings and 
impressions of travellers and tourists. Among them 
may be named the anonymous " Letters from the 
Land of Streams and Woods " (Edinburgh, 1873) ; 

56 



NOTABLE BOOKS, AND SOME OTHERS 

" The Warmer Islands : A Tour to Madeira and 
Jamaica" (1881); and Sk Sibbald Scott's "To 
Jamaica and Back," a readable and lively little 
book, containing a sketch of the history of the 
Colony. 

Many books contain no more than perhaps a 
single chapter touching Jamaica, and yet must not 
escape attention. Among these I make mention 
of that racy budget of reminiscence entitled " Grain 
or Chaff" (1903), by Mr. Alfred Chichele Plowden, 
a police magistrate of London. Mr. Plowden 
came out to Jamaica as private secretary to his 
uncle, Sir John Peter Grant, and though he re- 
mained only two years on the island, and those 
two years belong to* the sixties, he has left behind 
him a kindly remembrance as a genial, sport-loving, 
light-hearted young Englishman, not too anxious 
to push for place nor give his natural talents full 
play. His uncle, on the other hand, was repre- 
sented to me as a strict, severe-minded man, as 
unbendable as a rod of steel. I judge from what 
Mr. Plowden says there was justification for this 
view, as taken from the outside ; there was some- 
thing in the Governor's " grave and dignified 
demeanour which inspired respect and checked 
frivolity." But from the intimacy of the King's 
House the private secretary gives another side to 
the picture. The ex-Indian statesman was natu- 
rally lazy, and yet never idle ; he had such amazing 
powers of concentration that he never knew the 
time nor cared, and was only punctual through the 
thoughtfulness of others. If his mind was judicial, 
his character was firm and equable, and " no kinder 
or juster man ever lived." Such was the Captain- 
General and Governor who took up the affairs of 
Jamaica at one crucial period of the island's history, 
and left behind the mark of administrative genius. 

57 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

And Jamaica has been celebrated by the novel- 
ists. It has not its Defoe, as our North American 
settlements had in " Colonel Jack " and * Moll 
Flanders " vivid and amazingly realistic if rather 
gruesome romances of " our colonising life on its 
roughest side." But whereas 'Moll Flanders' is 
not a book for all the world, Kingsley's " West- 
ward Ho ! " most emphatically is ; and the reader 
of this generation who is by chance as yet un- 
acquainted with " Tom Cringle's Log " and " The 
Cruise of the Midge," two delicious romances from 
the pen of the old Kingston merchant, Michael 
Scott, has but to seek at the nearest library for 
thrilling knowledge of the Jamaica of bolder and 
more variegated days. 

Mr. Alfred Caldecott's " English Colonisation 
and Empire," and the late Professor J. R. Seeley's 
inspired pamphlet, '' Our Colonial Expansion," 
might stimulate most of us to look still farther 
afield. 

Of Froude's " English in the West Indies " more 
than a passing word should be said. It is a work 
that, despite all criticism, has survived, and certainly 
more than one copy was on board the Port King- 
ston when I crossed the Atlantic. I never spent 
an hour on its pages, however, without encounter- 
ing the friendly interruption of a fellow passenger, 
some West Indian who "knew," warning me 
against every statement every page contained. 
At Oxford Froude came under the influence of 
Newman, and that he bore away a full measure of 
the literary graces of that school is shown even in 
the work of his later manhood. Every one admitted 
the book to be in style eminently lucid, graceful, 
and attractive. But unfortunately Froude united 
to those graces the boorish, unreasoning attitude of 
mind of his later master, Carlyle. The historian 

58 



NOTABLE BOOKS, AND SOME OTHERS 

who could convert that very forceful gentleman, 
Henry VIII., into a striking moral figure, and 
forget to mention the vile ingratitude of the old 
ruffian to his great and only too faithful minister, 
Wolsey, and who could endeavour to besmirch by 
vain calumny the saintly life of Sir Thomas More, 
is hardly a safe guide in dealing even with objects 
coming within his own vision. It may be true that 
King Henry, English-like, did regard himself as a 
highly moral man. We are sure that he preferred 
lopping off heads to casual amours, 

Inaccuracy, however, is unfortunate in the his 
torian, even when he " does not pretend to impar- 
tiality." That Froude was inaccurate no one would 
now venture to deny, In proof of this I recall a 
slashing article in the Atlantic Monthly by Pro- 
fessor Goldwin Smith, reviewing Mr. Herbert 
Paul's conscientious life of Froude, in which the 
critic points out with almost cruel emphasis that in 
his "West Indies" and " Oceana " Froude misde- 
scribes things which he had seen with his own 
eyes, depicting, for instance, a sheet of water as 
tinted violet by the shadow of forest trees, whereas 
there were no forest trees within two miles of it. 
I might have gathered up many other beautiful 
misstatements or exaggerations. Enough for me 
to mention one the vivid picture of Gordon, the 
coloured man and the chief figure in the rising ot 
1865, hatching his plot in his home, "Cherry 
Garden," St Andrews, as he viewed from his own 
windows and piazzas the windows and piazzas lying 
below of the King's House, the home of the 
Governor whom he was so anxious to dethrone. 
Froude visited " Cherry Garden," but it was not 
Gordon's home ; and the illusion of the picturesque 
story is again spoiled when we remember that 
there was no. King's House within view until years 

59 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

afterwards, the seat of government being at that 
time at the old capital, Spanish Town, and not 
Kingston ! 

Froude avowedly wrote history with a polemical 
purpose, and he justified a conclusion by forgetting 
facts and distorting others to suit his advocacy. 
He came to the West Indies a convinced negro- 
hater, and the black and coloured population of 
Jamaica have a right to dismiss as outside serious 
consideration the conclusions of so manifestly un- 
fair and misleading a critic. 

I cannot, however, attempt even to name the 
writers who have made the West Indies, and 
Jamaica in particular, the scene of interesting 
study and observations. The bibliography of 
Jamaica as prepared by Mr. Frank Cundall, the 
secretary to the Institute at Kingston, and an 
acknowledged authority, is a bulky volume of 
itself. 

Grant Allen, I remember, spent some of the 
most impressionable years of his life on the island. 
The time was not misspent, as the experience 
provided colouring for more than one entertaining 
novel, and inspiration for much of the more endur- 
ing work achieved in that busy life. Still later 
Mr. Frankfort Moore, in the role of novelist as 
well as that of impartial critic, and Miss Dolf 
Wyllarde, among others, have drawn upon the 
same inexhaustible fount, the latter with a frank- 
ness that is not a little startling. 

The last volume to fall into my hands is fresh 
from the press " A Memory of the Old Slave 
Days," by G. D. de Montmorency. How far this 
is fiction and how far real history there is nothing 
within the covers to show. Probably I shall not 
be far wrong if I conclude it to be the first with 
the authority of the latter. Certainly coloured 

60 




CASTLETOX GARDEXS, JAMAICA 

One of the show places of the island. 



. S. CamfMl 



NOTABLE BOOKS, AND SOME OTHERS 

blood will not hesitate to accept Morna, a slave 
girl fair of skin, beautiful of form, and pure of 
mind, who prefers death to a loveless mating with 
her owner. There are disagreeable references to 
the Beckfords, who were once great slave-owners, 
and to one of whom a monument stands in the 
Guildhall, London, in token of his munificence ; a 
sketch, too, of Levi Hall, inhabited by a vulgar Jew, 
who, with his daughters, earns the contempt of his 
co-religionists by an anxiety to associate himself 
with all save those of the house of Israel, to which he 
belongs. This may be a portrait thinly veiled, and 
I more than half suspect it is. Disagreeable too 
is the picture of the colonial Englishman of 
pre-emancipation days ; but it cannot compare 
with the cruel, odious old cat who was, to judge 
from these pages, the typical Englishman's typical 
wife. 

The white planter and his wife of to-day are 
human, and generous-hearted to a degree, educated 
and refined, a distinct race from anything suggested 
within the bounds of this " memory." 



Cl 



IX 
A MIXED MARRIAGE 

SHE was an English rose, young and beautiful. 

" How that fresh complexion will fade in the 
dry heat of a tropical country ! " said some one. 

" Well," I urged in her defence, " she can afford 
to lose certain of those good looks and still be an 
attractive woman. She has the carriage of a lady, 
bcrn and bred, and a figure that would nowhere 
pass unnoticed." 

" The figure will lapse in idleness, and in Jamaica 
a woman must needs have distinction of carriage, 
where every native walks like a duchess." 

" Then the sun must be in the tropics a woman's 
greatest enemy ? " 

" And in England wet days and long winters 
blessings in disguise admittedly in disguise." 

This was the conversation on the deck of the 
steamer as we approached the wharf, and it related 
to a girl going out from England to Jamaica on 
the ever-interesting mission to be married. Her 
joyous laughter the note of gaiety was in every 
tone had made of every man on the ship an 
admirer, and of every woman a friend. 

The world loves a lover, it is said, probably for 
selfish reasons the amusement he invariably pro- 
vides. His confidences are superb. Adam never 
lived before, the highways of life are paths of gold 

62 



A MIXED MARRIAGE 

and of ever-enriching promise. To breathe a word 
of disillusionment would be heartless it would be 
worse, it would spoil the fun. 

But the engaged girl is truly beloved of all. 
And here one noted with admiration, born of envy, 
how a face, winning in repose, was one of unques- 
tioned beauty the moment it was suffused with the 
blush of expectancy at the prospect of meeting him 
to whom she was so soon to give the proud right 
to call her wife. 

The little love-story did not need much telling, 
and was soon known to all It had no difficult 
plot, and no complications beyond the " plot " and 
the complications obvious on the surface. It was 
this 

He came to England " home, he called it, 
though he had never seen the shores of Albion 
before and she, like Desdemona, looking into a face 
that breathed passionate affection for her and into 
eyes that revealed only the depth of her own soul, 
was lost and won. 

I supposed the little drama was nearing its close 
as the ship approached her moorings at Kingston, 
and wedding bells were well-nigh already in her 
ears. How eagerly she scanned the group on the 
wharf ! How indistinguishable the men all seemed 
to her in their light-coloured clothes and heavy- 
brimmed hats ! 

" Can you see your husband that is to be ? " I 
asked. 

" No but I am not sure," she said, slowly and 
doubtingly ; but in another instant she was all 
animation " Oh, yes, there he is, beside those dis- 
tressingly plain and fat black people." 

She waved her hand again and again in response 
to his recognition, and threw what, with supreme 
wisdom, I suspected was meant to be a kiss, 

63 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

though her fingers never actually touched her 
lips. 

" He said he would bring his people to meet 
me," she said, " but I expect his mother is some- 
where in the shade of the covered wharf down 
there the Custom House I think some one said it 
was. And I don't wonder," with a laugh, mean- 
while fanning herself with an absurdly diminutive 
handkerchief ; " it is hot." 

With a growing sense of anxiety I noted that 
the man who had returned her salutations came on 
board accompanied by that group of which he had 
been the more active principal. When they 
reached our deck I saw that the man, though 
light-complexioned, was distinctly a man of colour. 
He effusively kissed the girl, and then presented 
her to his mother, the most conspicuous of the 
little company of " distressingly plain and fat black 
people " we had observed on the wharf. 

For one brief instant amazement and bitter re- 
proach was marked in every feature, and tears were 
starting from two lustrous eyes when she controlled 
herself with the dignity of a proud Englishwoman 
aud gave her hand in turn to each of the black 
tribe. 

To a steward she gave directions about her lug- 
gage, and soon afterwards I saw her pass down the 
gangway, never once venturing to speak a word to 
any friend of the voyage. In this hour of humilia- 
tion she could not speak, and she spared us the 
hypocrisy of wishing her the joy we knew could not 
be hers. 

" The drama is a tragedy, and it has only begun," 
whispered a friend at my elbow, as we saw the 
little party disappear into the Customs examination 
quarters. 

" The bounding brute ! " I exclaimed. 

64 



A MIXED MARRIAGE 

" Oh, yes ! But why wonder ? We don't teach 
the English girl^what all this means. Indeed, if 
we teach her anything on the subject it is that the 
black man is 'her brother,' and that the difference 
is a trifling distinction of colour or occupation. 
Her awakening comes when she realises that in her 
colonial home she is cut off from the society of all 
her own countrywomen, and that in motherhood 
her heart may be filled with loathing instead of 
love. Then indeed is a woman's humiliation com- 
plete." 

" This man must know all this ? " 

" Certainly. He knows that within this island 
he can barely dare to speak to an English girl, and 
never presume to be^, guest in her home. But in 
England the flag of Empire covers much ! So he 
goes * home ' to England to pass an examination, 
perhaps, and perhaps, too, if he is not quite as 
black as his mother, to secure an English wife. 
Arrived here, he gives her no time to realise. 
This wedding will be to-morrow morning at the 
latest." 

Surely enough it was so. The pathetic little 
ceremony was arranged for half-past eight the fol- 
lowing morning, and oh, the pity of it! it took 
place. 

We were, however, destined to meet again. She 
was on her honeymoon, and spending a few days 
at a prominent seaside resort on the north side of 
the island. What a glimpse of Paradise is Port 
Antonio ! The bay, as we saw it in the early 
twilight on our arrival, lay at our feet like a sheet 
of glass, reflecting by day the eternally blue sky, 
by night the vast and countless assemblage of 
stars. 

1 noted with admiration that our English rose 
was more beautiful than ever a little flushed in 

65 E 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

4 

the excitement of the dance more interesting and 
more bewitching. With such godlike grace do our 
angels bear a chastening sorrow that knows no end ! 
But obviously already she had been made aware of 
the gulf that must now and for ever part her from 
the white human family she had unconsciously for- 
saken for the black family of humanity she had 
embraced with equal lack of conscious intention. 
She even seemed tojiesitate in presuming to speak 
to us. 

" I gave my word/' she said in a whisper to me 
aside, " and I would not break it not then, at all 
events." 

It was an answer to no question of mine none, 
at all events, that had ever found utterance. There 
are questions that find birth without words. 

"But," she went on, and a far-away look passed 
over her face, and a choking sensation in the throat 
made her hesitate, " I did not understand and I 
dare not think of what may come. It would break 
my heart. But you men who have been about in 
the world why this conspiracy of silence ? Why 
do you not tell English girls quite frankly what 
this difference in race does mean ? " And, her proud 
glance falling, she added pathetically in a whisper, 
" May mean ? " 

We were on the edge of a deserted but bril- 
liantly illuminated ball-room, as imposing, in this 
supposedly poverty-stricken colony, as any in Paris 
or New York. At that moment the music began 
afresh, bringing forth from the wide balconies and 
verandahs a great company of fair women and 
brave men, mainly of the great American Republic 
lying at one point so near. 

The clouds had gone from her countenance the 
next instant. 

" I can give you this waltz," she said aloud, as 

66 




DINING ON THE 1'IA/ZA OF THE HOTEL TITCHFIELD, I'OKT ANTONIO 

(From (i drawing hi/ Win. Aikman) 




Photo by II'.S Camfbfll 



ON THE STRAND NEAH PORT ANTONIO 



A MIXED MARRIAGE 

the dancers brushed past, with a laugh I well un- 
derstood. 

Her gaiety of voice and manner, intended to 
recall old days on the sea, a little forced and unreal 
as it was, was more touching and pathetic than 
tears. 



67 



THE LAND OF THE BANANA 

AGRICULTURE in a tropical country, the industrial 
conditions being favourable, has been recently de- 
scribed as the surest and speediest road to fortune. 
The writer, in a burst of cynical candour, ranked 
agriculture as a profitable occupation next after 
the equally practical but less prosaic businesses of 
revolution-making and political wire-pulling. He 
was an American, of course, writing in the always 
illuminative pages of the Outlook. 

In Jamaica, which is, as I have shown, virtually 
a Crown Colony, the representative element in the 
Government being a mere shadow and pretence, 
revolutions, happily, are of no avail, and political 
wire-pulling is either an extinct art or one that 
has yet to be discovered. 

Agriculture, therefore, left to itself, takes pre- 
eminence; and on the computation of those planters 
who have known the island for more than half a 
century, and with whom I have had many interest- 
ing talks, no country affords a young man of 
moderate means so good and so certain a return on 
his capital outlay, and so attractive a life through- 
cut the years he is accumulating his competency. 
Eut I am satisfied that the days of phenomenal 
earnings are over, and that it is no longer possible 
for a capitalist to come over here, and by investing 




PLANTING A BAXAXA SUCK KB 



Photo by 11'. S. Campbell 



THE LAND OF THE BANANA 

5000, 10,000, or even 20,000 in a sugar estate 
return and live in London in luxury on his profits. 
The days of the absentee landlord are over, but 
the day has only dawned of the planter who, 
abandoning all antiquated, slipshod methods, de- 
votes himself with moderate zeal and intelligence 
to the work he has in hand. Nature in this region 
is long-suffering and kind, and the farmer in 
Jamaica has an easier time and may earn more 
money than his brother working in a colder zone. 

The climate is often regarded as a serious deter- 
rent, and there can be no doubt that the hot days 
and nights of the summer are a serious penalty to 
certain constitutions (as to which I shall have 
more to say on a later page). Englishmen twenty 
years resident on the island have told me that 
they were forbidden by their doctors to return for 
more than brief visits. Even native-born Jamaicans 
Creoles they all quite properly call themselves, 
though an attempt is sometimes made to restrict 
the use of that word to those of pure European 
descent have confessed to me that they never 
knew what it was to feel well till they reached the 
temperate zone, 

A mild fever attacks some new-comers after a 
few months' residence, but even mild fever is un- 
known save amid the hot, low-lying, and highly 
productive sugar estates ; and most settlers, men 
and women, soon become inured and throw off 
every semblance of the prostrating, heady feverish- 
ness. In the past all the West Indies laboured 
under an evil reputation, due in a large measure to 
the high rate of mortality among the white troops 
and the numerous physical wrecks among the 
white settlers. 

Our soldiers were often required to live in hope- 
lessly insanitary barracks, in some such low-lying 

69 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

situation as that at Port Royal, than which no 
more likely fever swamp could be imagined, and 
united to this evil abode other offences against 
health, of which an appetite for raw rum was only 
one. 

Then it is not many years since the sanitation of 
Kingston, the capital itself, was of the most 
primitive kind ; and the wonder is that, with the 
stench of open sewers and an atmosphere filled with 
mosquitoes spreading malarial fever everywhere, any 
one lived at all. I was told that one high official 
on the island scouted the idea that the bite of the 
mosquito could be the cause of malarial fever, but 
this was not an official fitted by training and ob- 
servation or knowledge to form an opinion against 
the weight of definite discoveries. 

Ancient authorities on Ayurvedic medicines 
assign mosquitoes next after impure air and water 
as the cause of the fever ; and if the recent in- 
vestigations of Manson and Ross have traced the 
evil to this source, the principle is to be found in 
certain Sanskrit works of an origin not later 
than the sixth century of the Christian era, and 
who knows? maybe as long ago as three thousand 
years. 

In Jamaica, however, the mosquito net round 
your bed is often a luxury to the eye rather than 
a physical necessity, and only when the planter's 
house is near water more or less stagnant or still 
is the mosquito himself a real living terror. Port 
Royal, which has earned for Jamaica so evil a 
name in many respects, and for which the mosquito 
has not received his proper share of reproach, has 
fallen from its proud place among the richest and 
smallest cities of the world, and is now hardly 
more than a neglected landmark ; while Kingston 
has a drainage system on modern, approved lines. 

70 




Photo by Jl . S. Caw f Ml 



CUTTING A BANANA STEM 



THE LAND OF THE BANANA 

The water tax, however, as Sir James Crich ton- 
Browne has shown as the result of personal in- 
vestigation, is so serious a burden on the poorer 
classes of the capital, that many, if not indeed 
most, of the miserable one-roomed shanties of the 
negro, hidden away in a labyrinth of alleys behind 
side streets, are without the slightest pretence to 
drainage. 

Still, it must be admitted that Kingston has 
such a remarkable immunity from disease that it 
is deservedly spoken of as the healthiest centre of 
population in the whole of the West Indies. 
Certainly the city enjoys the inestimable blessing 
of a refreshing breeze from the hills by day, 
relieving the noondajr heat, from the sea by night, 
cooling the hours of darkness even in the narrowest 
and most sheltered streets. 

I do not, however, share the conviction that 
man, like all nature, animate and inanimate, at- 
tains his highest development in the tropics, though 
no one can spend a single day on this fair isle 
without being impressed by the extraordinary 
luxuriance of the soil, no less than by the strength 
and shapeliness of the native race, before labour 
and age have left their relentless impress. 

Anything and everything will grow in Jamaica. 
In England no one would presume to set up as a 
fanner without, if possible, some education at an 
agricultural college, and never, certainly, without 
practical experience on a farm. But here I find 
planters happy and prosperous, and thoroughly 
sound agriculturists, whose early training was 
perhaps on the Stock Exchange in London, but 
who have abandoned that nerve-racking existence 
for the greater quiet, joy, and ease of a Jamaican 
plantation. Other men have drifted here because 
the climatic conditions of England rendered the 

71 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

change a necessity of health, some have come from 
sheer love of the open air and the comforting 
warmth of the tropics, while others have inherited 
their properties and found it pleasing as well as 
convenient to follow in the steps of a father or an 
uncle or a grandfather. One and all are attracted 
to the easy-going, free, and open-hearted ways of a 
colony as a contrast and relief to the stricter dis- 
cipline of social life in England. 

Everybody knows everybody, and the impertinent 
and inquisitive hardly find it necessary to ask the 
income you earn from your estate, as the semi- 
official " Handbook " seems to tell nearly all you 
want to know on that head, giving, if you are so 
pleased to disclose the information for the common 
good, your yield of sugar in hogsheads or hundred- 
weights and your production of rum in puncheons. 
I cannot imagine what the busy-body can find to 
meddle with on an island where such all-consuming 
subjects of speculation and inquiry are thus happily 
disposed of. 

The Government of a Crown Colony is paternal 
in its despotism, and in Jamaica shows its fostering 
care in many ways that at home would be regarded 
as startling Socialistic innovations. The Colony 
shares with all our West Indian possessions an 
Imperial Commissioner of Agriculture in the per- 
son of Sir Daniel Morris, K.C.M.G., D.Sc., who, 
after long experience of the West Indies, was 
brought home to Kew, only to return to the sphere 
of his former labour and carry out a scheme, 
largely, if not entirely, of his own creation that 
of aiding the planter with the latest results of 
scientific knowledge in the choice of seeds, the 
best crop for particular estates, the treatment of 
insect pests, and a whole multitude of facts of 
inestimable service to the planter in his daily work. 

72 




THK COOLIE AND HIS WIFE HOEINCi 




Roth Photos by If. S. Campbell 

XEUKOES IWIXGING IJAXAXAS TO A STOKE SHED 



THE LAND OF THE BANANA 

Sir Daniel Morris has chosen his headquarters at 
Barbados, but is in direct and personal touch with 
all the islands, and his influence is everywhere. 
He is enriching every planter, by bringing to his 
aid the highest scientific learning, and establishing 
methods of culture that not only bring substantial 
returns forthwith, but promise steadily increasing 
advantages. Surely this is Empire-building in its 
best sense, and no chapter treating, however briefly, 
of agriculture in the West Indies would be com- 
plete that did not pay tribute to his genius and 
that of the able men, like the Hon. Francis Watts, 
C.M.G., D.Sc., and others, whose aid he has en- 
listed. 

A return published by the Revenue Department 
for the year ending March 31, 1905, showed that 
the acreage alienated from the Crown and vested 
in individuals or trusts was 2,085,064, of which 
1,310,103 were returned as in wood and ruinate 
and 774,961 acres under care and cultivation, as 
follows: Common pasture, 383,640; Guinea grass, 
124,206; ground provisions, 109,166; common 
pasture and pimento, 50,794 ; bananas, 44,325 ; 
coffee, 24,479; canes, 23,871; cocoanuts, 8561; 
cacao, 4628 ; ginger, 401 ; corn, 354 ; tobacco, 
199 ; ground-nuts, 62 ; cotton, 22 ; arrowroot, 18 ; 
vegetables, 9 ; total, 774,961, compared with 693,674 
ten years before. On this comparison bananas 
showed a steady rise, canes a steady fall, coffee 
stationary, cocoanuts less, ginger more. 

The sugar exported (198,066 cwts.) was valued 
at 116,366; rum (1,224,357 gallons), 92,575; 
coffee, 85,173; bananas (8,903,739 bunches), 
514,191 ; cocoanuts, 17,197; cocoa, 40,757. 

These figures are interesting as showing a rapid 
recovery following so closely upon the terrible 
disaster of the cyclone of August 11, 1903, and 

73 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

as a basis of comparison with the figures of the 
year next following. 

The acreage in wood and ruinate in this last 
return is now shown to be 1,261,900, while the 
land under cultivation shows a total of 817,211, 
divided as follows : Tilled land, 246,373 ; Guinea 
grass, 125,687 ; commons, 445,151. 

Ground provisions now cover 113,029 acres; 
bananas, 59,958 ; coffee, 27,765 ; canes, 26,838 ; 
cocoanuts, 10,318; cocoa, 6021; minor items, 
2444 ; total, 246,373, making up the grand total 
of 2,079,111. 

The report of the Hon. A H. Miles, Collector- 
General of Jamaica, for the year ending March 31, 
1906, bears proof of the advancing prosperity of 
the island. Customs collections amounted to 
389,509, an increase of nearly 40,000. Imports 
amounted to 1,837,774, or an advance of 252,926, 
while the exports were 1,843,180, an advance of 
no less than 406,455. 

The United States possesses the bulk of the 
trade of the Colony. Of the imports, 39 per cent, 
came from the United States, which took in return 
57*4 of the total exports, compared with 19*3 
exported to the United Kingdom. 

Fruit continued to be the staple industry (if 
mere figures are a guide), being 55 per cent, of the 
value of the whole, coffee coming next (7*6), sugar 
following (6-9), while rum keeps its place in the 
running (5'6). 

Sugar shows at length a tendency to rise, though 
it has not yet realised its chances as a result of the 
abolition of the bounties, the erection of better 
machinery, and improved planting. But the coffee 
of Jamaica, which at its best is one of the delicacies 
of the world, is forging ahead. To fruit, however, 
an4 the banana in particular, belongs the bulk of the 

74 




AMONG THE SUGAR-CANES 




Roth Photos hy U f . S. C 

DRYING COCOA-DEANS ON ONE OF MESSRS. HOWNTRKK'S 
PLANTATIONS 



THE LAND OF THE BANANA 

trade done, and the latest figures show the exports 
of the latter to be 14,981,147 bunches, a giant 
stride upon the eight million odd of the previous 
twelve months. There is a suspicion, however, 
that the quality of the banana shipped of late has 
been inferior, and this depreciation must be arrested 
before the luscious Jamaican fruit is supplanted in 
popular favour by the production of Puerto Rico, 
already largely eaten in England. 

Of the total crop of bananas, no fewer than 
13,703,363 bunches went to the United States, the 
United Kingdom taking only 1,217,901, and Canada 
57,611. 

Another important feature of the report, that 
dealing with the increase in grass land, would seem 
to show that greater attention is now being paid 
to cattle-raising, for which Jamaica is well suited, 
and Cuba forms a ready market. 



XI 
SUGAR AND COTTON 

THE prosperity of Jamaica was founded on the 
growth of the sugar-cane, and it was to work on the 
estates devoted to its growth that the natives of 
West Africa were entrapped and despatched as 
slaves. 

Yet the sugar-cane is an alien in this sunny land. 
Its history is shrouded in obscurity. It was known 
to the ancients, and Herodotus makes mention of 
it. " Indian salt " was one description, and from 
the evident Sanskrit origin of the word it would 
seem safe to conclude that the Far East was its 
place of origin. The Crusaders found it in Syria, 
and one of them described the process of manu- 
facture by squeezing and boiling down the juice. 
The Moors carried it into Spain, and to the 
Spaniards we owe its introduction into Hispaniola, 
or Cuba, and thence into the other West Indian 
islands. 

It can be raised from seed, but the custom in 
Jamaica has been to reproduce it from cuttings, 
each joint having a bud, which in the growing 
part of the cane is capable of independent develop- 
ment. Industrially this process of reproduction 
has become so common, so universal I might say, 
that the reproduction from seed has been com- 
pletely lost sight of. This is where exact scientific 

76 




PEASANT'S PRIMITIVE SUGAB-GBINDING MILL 




Roth Photos by W. S. Campbell 
HOI LING Sl'GAIl ON A PEASANT'S HOLDING 



SUGAR AND COTTON 

knowledge comes into play, and Sir Daniel 
Morris lias told me that the results of recent 
experiments are most encouraging, showing im- 
proved varieties of seedling canes, yielding a 
larger amount of sugar and less susceptible to 
disease. He has still more promising seedling 
canes under experiment, but some years must 
elapse before he can establish any wide-spreading 
change of policy in the propagation of the sugar- 
cane. It is evident, however, that the seedling 
cane is less subject to disease and yields a better 
return. 

The highest results, however, w r ill only be 
achieved by the planter's choice of the richest 
canes for each localfty, by more careful nourishing 
of the soil, by an improvement and economy in 
manufacture, and by producing exactly the kind 
of sugar required for refinery purposes in Canada 
and the United States, and the yellow and other 
crystals demanded by the United Kingdom. 

Canada, by the way, offers a very favourable 
market for West I ndian sugar and molasses, and in 
the new tariff of the Dominion every colonial has 
noted with pleasure and gratitude that the prefer- 
ence to British-grown sugar is continued. 

Hitherto the great hindrance to the growth of 
the sugar-cane has been due to two causes : First, 
the discovery that sugar could be extracted from 
beet. When the sugar-supply of France from our 
West Indian colonies was cut off Napoleon offered 
a prize for a practical method of extracting the 
known sweetening qualities from the beet. It was 
this offer which ultimately led to its first manufac- 
ture by Chaptal in 1829. Therein has Napoleon 
been revenged upon us all these years, beyond his 
most sanguine dreams ! Next, the Continental 
system of sugar bounties, by which the grower in 

77 ' 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Jamaica had to compete with sugar manufactured 
on the Continent and sold to us below cost 

I heard with amused incredulity of the efforts 
of an English Member of Parliament to persuade 
cane-growers that the abolition of the bounty 
system had rendered them no practical advantage 1 
It is difficult to imagine any sane man, much less 
a man of capacity, attempting so absurd and 
impossible a conversion. No specious argument 
could induce the planters to believe that their one 
hope of salvation lay in their annihilation ! i.e., by 
the revival of the Continental bounty. 

Happily the bounty-fed sugar is a figment of 
history now, and that it may remain so is the 
devout prayer of the West Indian planter, and of 
every one who wishes to see trade sustained on fair 
competitive lines. I am satisfied that the sugar- 
growers of the West Indies can keep up their 
estates and mills, and even flourish, so long as they 
have for their commodity in the home market a 
fair field and no favour. 

But they have no sooner taken heart of grace and 
expended large sums in the purchase of modern 
machinery than Sir Edward Grey announces the 
resolve of Great Britain to withdraw from the 
Brussels Convention. The sugar trade of the West 
Indies is inevitably thrown to the wolves, and 
no grant for the uplifting of a fallen capital can 
compare with this blow to Jamaican trade. 

The marked growth in the area under cultivation 
for fruit has been shown as one of the sensational 
features of Jamaica's expanding trade. In the 
future there should be more combined effort on the 
part of growers #nd shippers to avoid the loss in 
oranges and grape-fruit. Lime juice, too, has a 
very promising future, especially if the manufacture 
of citrate of lime is taken up on commercial lines, 

78 




Photo by If. S. Campbell 

COOLIK CUTTING OFF A BANANA BUNCH WITH A MACHETE 



SUGAR AND COTTON 

saving the citric acid now lost in evaporating the 
raw juice. Rice is attracting more attention, while 
rubber is advancing, particularly in Trinidad and 
Tobago, where planters must soon feel the ad- 
vantage of enhanced prices. 

Tobacco has been experimented with a good deal 
in Jamaica, and if 1 dare venture to judge from 
conversations with those who have expended and 
lost a great deal of money in its culture, the experi- 
ments afford no reasonable basis on which to form 
any conclusion whatever, save that the only way 
to be a successful planter is to attend to your own 
concerns and not leave them to others who do not 
care a brass farthing. Sir Daniel Morris thinks that 
the British Admirafty ought to take the Jamaican 
leaf and blend it with Virginian for the benefit of 
our Navy and merely incidentally, I suppose, the 
benefit of Jamaica. 

Tea is also grown in Jamaica. It has shown itself 
capable of becoming a successful industry, and 
King Edw r ard sampled it recently with satisfaction. 
The only other part of the New AVorld where tea 
is grown on a moderately large scale is South 
Carolina. Cassava starch is in good demand in the 
United Kingdom, particularly among the cotton 
districts of Lancashire, where spinners find they 
can impart -an almost linen-like finish to cotton 
cloth by the use of this tubular starch. 

But I should exhaust an encyclopaedia if I at- 
tempted even to mention all the commercial produc- 
tions of Jamaica. I jotted down a list of the fruits 
that came to table, and here it is : Bananas (which 
sell at ld. to 3d. per dozen in Kingston market, 
but for which the grower gets anything from 6d. 
to 2s. 6d. a bunch), blackberries, bilberries, cashew, 
cocoanuts, custard apples, gineps, granadillas, grape- 
fruit (which sell at 5s. to 12s. per 100 in Kingston, 

79 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

but for which the grower would do well at little more 
than half that price), grapes, limes, mangoes, melons, 
oranges (the sweet variety, of which 1 never tasted 
anything more luscious, sell at 2s. to 4s. per 100, 
the grower receiving 10s. or 12s. per 1000), 
tangerines (6d. per dozen), papaws, pineapples (2d. 
to Gd. each), shaddocks, sour-sops, tar apples, sweet- 
cups, sweet-sops, yams, &c. &c. 

Of vegetables, most of which are in season all the 
year round, we have akees, alligator pears, French 
beans, sugar beans, beetroots, bread fruit, cabbages, 
spinach, calalu, carrots, green corn, cucumbers, 
garden eggs, lettuces, parsley, Irish potatoes (in 
winter and spring), sweet potatoes, pumpkins, 
tomatoes (plentiful from February to July), turnips, 
water-cress, &c. &c. 

Of cotton I have not thus far said a word, though 
the main object of our visit to the West Indies was 
to promote its growth. Long years ago, whilst the 
slave trade still flourished, cotton-growing was one 
of the great industries of the West Indies, but the 
sensational profits obtained by the growth of sugar 
and the production of rum had the inevitable 
effect of driving cotton out of the field. In the 
past year the position, on a moderate scale, has 
been reversed, and no profits could be more hand- 
some than those made on cotton selling at 2s., 
2s. 6d., and even 2s. 8d. per Ib. the reader may 
judge how the eyes of Mr. James Lawrence, 
a large consumer of this growth at his mills at 
Chorley, Lancashire, glistened with joyful expec- 
tancy when he heard that Is. per Ib. would show 
the planter a profit, and Is. 3d. make a good sound 
business of it ! 

Visions of wealth fill the mind of the Lancashire 
cotton-spinner if he can only induce the planter to 
be thus satisfied ! These prices relate, of course, 

80 



SUGATl AND COTTON 

to Sea Island cotton so called, I believe, because 
it originated on these islands and was grown to 
the best advantage on low-lying fields near the sea, 
the thread being longer and finer and at all 
points superior to " good middling American," the 
staple article on which Lancashire lives and has 
its being. 

During the bitter struggle between North and 
South the cotton plantations of Mississippi were 
neglected, and Lancashire starved. The same con- 
dition has been witnessed in times of peace and 
plenty. Powerful syndicates combine in New 
York to arrest the natural flow of shipments to 
Liverpool. The whole trade is dislocated as a 
consequence, operatives are thrown out of work, 
and live or starve in enforced idleness for more 
than half the week. Meanwhile the demand for 
cotton cloth goes on as ever, forcing up prices as a 
consequence of artificial scarcity, while the ring- 
makers in New York pocket the plunder. 

The problem of finding fresh sources of supply 
has led to the establishment of the British Cotton 
Growing Association, incorporated by Royal 
charter, with a capital of 500,000, of which Sir 
Alfred Jones is president and moving spirit. 
The object in view is national, patriotic, com- 
mercial, and humane ; and as the growth of cotton 
continues steadily to expand in West Africa and 
the West Indies, the more difficult must it be- 
come and the larger the capital outlay required to 
engineer a " corner " in the market. 

The industry in the West Indies was reopened 
in 1902 under the joint auspices of the Imperial 
Department of Agriculture and the British Cotton 
Growing Association. In that year 328,530 Ibs. 
of lint were exported, the combined value of lint 
and seed exported being 9676. In the following 

81 F 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

years it advanced to 11,873, 31,891, 63,290, 
and in 1906 the production reached 5104 bales, 
weighing 1,547,715 Ibs., the value of lint and seed 
amounting to no less a sum than 95,274.* 

Figures which show such rapid expansion justify 
the view of Sir Alfred Jones, Mr. J. Arthur 
Button, the vice-chairman of the Council, and all 
those associated with the movement, that the 
trade has long since passed the experimental stage. 
Sir William H. Holland, M.P., has quite truly 
said that Lancashire lives by a strong, line, sound 
staple cotton. It is equally true that during the 
recent scarcity the very fine and expensive Sea 
Island cotton of the West Indies (from which 
the very finest and most expensive goods are 
manufactured), a growth entirely promoted by the 
British Cotton Growing Association, has enabled 
many mills to keep going which otherwise would 
have suffered much loss, if they had not been 
compelled to close down altogether. I should 
also point out that a planter cultivating cotton 
does not labour under the disadvantage so often 
connected with raising a new crop the difficulty 

* Mr. Hutton has reminded me that the greatest progress has been 
made in Barbados, as will be seen from the following figures, which 
are taken from the Agricultural News, a most excellent scientific news- 
paper, published by the Imperial Department of Agriculture for the 
West Indies, under Sir Daniel Morris : 



BARBADOS. 









Weight in 


Yield 


Average 


Value of 


lear 


Acres 


Bales 


pounds. 


per 


price per 


lint and 








Lint 


acre 


pound 


seed 


1903-4 


800 


642 


187,945 


337-50 


15-48d. 


13,166 


1904-5 


1647 


806 


279,264 


169-56 


14-55d. 


18,274 


1905-6 


2000 


1200 


479,418 


239-71 


15-20d. 


33,557 


1906-7 


5000 


~~ 








"" 


" 



SUGAR AND COTTON 

of finding a market. The British Cotton Growing 
Association undertakes the sale of any cotton 
forwarded to them. Most of the West Indian 
planters avail themselves of this active co-opera- 
tion, and are well satisfied with the prices ob- 
tained. 



88 



XII 
SETTLERS WANTED 

THE call of the West Indies is for young men 
of capital some 1500 to 3000 if possible to 
embark in the cultivation of cotton. For banana- 
growing less is required, for sugar more. 

The advice of Sir Daniel Morris to all such young 
men is to attach themselves first of all, for one 
season at all events, to a good cotton plantation, in 
order to become practically acquainted with the 
details of the cultivation, the planting and the 
picking, and the management of native labour. 
The cost of a year's residence on such a plantation 
is small some 50 or 70.* 

* The large plantations of the Hon. Henry Cork on the banks of 
Rio Grande, near St. Margaret's Bay (there, and on plantations else- 
where on the island, he engages in the cultivation of the banana, 
cocoa and cocoanut, pimento, coffee, kola, oranges and grape fruit, 
and cattle-breeding), may be taken as typical of many ; and I men- 
tion these in particular, for I visited them, to my delight. From the 
piazza of Mr. Cork's house one of the most beautiful pictures of land 
and sea may be obtained; and during my brief sojourn I had the added 
interest of watching an imposing waterspout on the sea. Mr. Cork 
asks from his pupil 1 a week for six months, and offers in return 
30 for the second year, and 40 for the third. The pupil must 
supply his own horse ; grass and stabling are found, and 3s. a week 
allowed for a " boy." Splendid fishing lies in the Rio Grande, flow- 
ing through the valley (to my chagrin, having no rod and line, I saw 
the far-famed mountain mullet, the hog-nosed mullet, the sand fish, 
the snook, and the drummer, and heard of the taipon, the last-named 
outrivalling all sport with a salmon on a rod), while the shooting is 
fair. Mr. Cork makes the significant proviso that the "pupil should 
not be allowed more than 10s. a week pocket-money." If the pupil 
were an enthusiastic fisherman, I fancy that allowance would be ample 

81 




THHKE COOLIE GIRLS 

on a cocoa plantation tasting English manufactured chocolate for the 
first time. Margaret, the youthful bride-elect, is in the centre of the little group. 




/?<>/// Photos by II'. S. Campbell 

AN EAST INIHAX HUEAKFAST 
The- child wife may be easily distinguished squatting to the left 



SETTLERS WANTED 

The rewards are not to be despised, as the figures 
already quoted will have shown. On a 50-acre 
plantation the cost should not be over 9d. per lb., 
or lOd. including ginning, while the return should 
not be less than 150 Ibs, to the acre at from Is. to 
Is. 6d. (the recent high prices cannot be sustained 
indefinitely) ; so that, at an average of Is. cd. per 
lb., the profit per 50 acres should be 150 ; whilst 
if the yield were 200 Ibs. per acre, and the price 
obtained Is. 6d or more, the margin of profit is 
more than twice as large. 

In Jamaica there are of Crown lands alone tens 
of thousands of acres not occupied at all, including 
much excellent land, giving a dry climate and a 
light soil, well suited for growing cotton, at a cost 
of l per acre upwards. Barbuda, which lies some 
twenty-eight miles to the north of Antigua (whence 
it is reached by sailing-boat), is entirely Government 
land, seventy-two square miles in area. By far the 
greater portion of the island is available for cotton 
cultivation the moment the bush and scrub have 
been cleared. 

On the Leeward Islands facilities for growing 
cotton are everywhere. In Antigua not less than 
3000 acres are available (largely as a result of the 
languishing sugar industry of former years), a con- 
siderable proportion being in the hands of the 
Government, who are willing to sell or let on easy 
terms (rent values about 5s. to 10s. per acre). 
Labour is fairly abundant and cheap men, lOd. 
to Is. per day ; women, 5d. to 6d. ; children, 3d. 
In St. Kitts cotton is successfully grown in con 
nection with sugar. 

In Nevis there are large tracts of land unoccu- 
pied, and the prospects of cotton-growing are most 

for wear and tear of tackle ! I fear that little else would obtain 
attention in the presence of such absorbing sport. 

85 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

favourable. Rents vary from 10s. to 15s. per acre, 
while purchase outright costs no more than 2 to 
5 per acre. Labour , Men, 8d. to lOd. per day ; 
women, 4d. to 5d. ; children, 3d. In Montserrat 
there must be not less than 4000 to 5000 acres 
available for the profitable growth of Sea Island 
cotton, the price being 2 to 3 per acre. Labour 
for picking will run from Is. to Is. 2d. per 100 Ibs. 
In Barbados and St. Vincent, where cotton-growing 
is now firmly established as a paying industry, most 
of the land is taken up. 

But there are other industries besides cotton 
offering facilities for the profitable employment of 
capital, and foremost among these 1 place the sugar 
industry, always granting that the British Govern- 
ment does not again permit the trade to be hopelessly 
crippled by foreign bounties. It is true that a 
larger capital is required, and perhaps also a better 
training and a higher order of intelligence, but the 
returns are fully commensurate. In suitable parts 
of Jamaica canes can be grown at a cost of 4s. to 
5s a ton. By modern methods of crushing, eight 
or nine tons of cane will produce one ton of sugar. 
Yet such is the wastage by defective machinery 
alone that 10, 15, and even 20 per cent, are lost. 

In Jamaica, as a rule, not less than 11, and even 
as many as 16 and 18 tons of cane are required for 
a yield of a ton of sugar ; while on one estate it 
works out at the utterly ruinous proportion of 27 
tons of cane per ton of sugar yield ! 

Rum, for which Jamaica deservedly holds the 
highest reputation, is a by-product .of the sugar 
industry. Practical working has shown that 14 Ibs. 
(including glucose and inverted sugar) will yield a 
gallon of rum at 40 over proof. When it is found 
that 160 gallons of rum are worth more than a ton 
of sugar, the more efficient process of crushing is a 

86 





g i 

5 

M *O 

H 2 



SETTLERS WANTED 

less attractive speculation. But, in the words of 
one competent authority. I can say, " No invest- 
ment is so safe, certain, and remunerative as a 
well-situated sugar estate, managed on up-to-date 
lines, and with sufficient capital to work it econo- 
mically." 

Coffee is in the line of steady advance, as I have 
already shown. The best coffee in the world, and 
that for which the highest price is paid, is the pro- 
duct of the Blue Mountains of Jamaica. It is 
grown at an altitude of some 3000 or 4000 feet. 
The output is limited 400 or 500 tons annually, 
for which 125s. to 135s. per cwt. is paid. Large 
tracts of land that will grow this coffee to per- 
fection are obtainable from the Government at Is. 
per acre in parcels of 300 acres or more, energy and 
capital being alone required to develop a sound, 
highly profitable industry. The climate at this 
altitude is very healthy, the thermometer standing 
at about 68 all the year round, and therefore 
eminently suited to white settlers. 

The price of Blue Mountain coffee is hardly 
affected by market fluctuations, and it is practically 
impossible to outstrip the demand. In London we 
have syndicates for all kinds of wild-cat schemes, 
but it does not seem to occur to any enterprising 
company promoter or combination of wholesale 
grocers to develop a sound industry of this character 
under the security of the British flag. How can 
Lord Rosebery speak of the difficulty of finding 
openings for our younger sons in trade in the face 
of such neglected opportunities ? 

Tobacco-growing in Jamaica is practically in its 
infancy, and now that the celebrated Havana cigars 
(the product of the overworked soil of Cuba) are 
showing such marked signs of deterioration much 
may be expected in the near future. The land, soil, 

87 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

and climate are all here, and the connoisseur is already 
yielding to the fragrant aroma and delicate taste 
of our colonial growth. What the smoker seeks is 
a pale blue vapour rising in gentle wavelets from 
an even grey ash ; what he shuns is a black rim 
mingled with grey. What he seeks is that equable 
and genial warmth that never preys upon the 
tongue; what he shuns is that acrid pungency 
which disturbs his nerves. And Jamaica is minis- 
tering to the needs of the discriminating ! 

Of the banana little need be said, in the face of 
figures already quoted. Its too rapid advance is 
the one danger I foresee. But the warning I am 
regarding the cultivation solely from the point 
of view of the island's larger material interests, 
because I should have preferred to see the exports 
develop on wider lines will be uttered in vain 
whilst the individual grower continues to net such 
substantial returns. Banana cultivation requires 
the least capital, and if I may be excused in 
saying so the least technical skill of all the 
growths of the tropics. The young planter must 
of necessity spend some time on a banana planta- 
tion before setting up for himself, and he must be 
an apt agriculturist and a sound man of business. 
The whole secret of success lies in cultivating the 
fruit in such a way that it is fit to cut and ship at 
a time when the fruits of the temperate zone are 
scarce and dear. 

The price may rule as low as 5 per 100 bunches 
(I have shown that it may be even less), or it may 
be 15 per 100, while 30 is on record (6s. per 
bunch, a bunch including as many as 150 bananas). 
These are the prices paid to the planter by the 
United Fruit Company of Boston (themselves 
sarge growers), with whom he almost exclusively 
deals. 

88 




HAKCARKT AND HER HUSBAND IX BRIDAL AUKAY 



SETTLERS WANTED 

The story of the United Fruit Company is a 
romance of trade. In the beginning Captain Baker 
secured a few bunches, for which on his return to 
the United States he found a ready sale, A 
powerful corporation has inherited Captain Baker's 
lucky enterprise, and a great fleet of steamers is 
engaged in the transit of Jamaica fruit to New 
York and Boston. A virtual monopoly has been 
created in this almost accidental fashion, but while 
the business of the monopoly is conducted with the 
fairness that has hitherto marked its progress no 
one can offer any word but that of congratulation. 
The United Fruit Company is next in turn largely 
concerned in the prosperity of Messrs. Elders and 
Fyffe, of Covent Garden, London (a concern that 
owes its inception to Sir Alfred Jones), through 
whose hands now pass all the bananas consumed 
in Europe, whether coming from Jamaica or 
Puerto Rico or elsewhere. 

My final word on the banana is that the grower 
should begin to net a profit return at the end of 
the second year, and that by the end of the fifth, 
sixth, or seventh year his annual income should be 
exactly equal to his original capital. What state- 
ment could more aptly carry home the truth that 
the West Indies are not played out ? 

I have omitted all mention of many other 
industries of Jamaica, and only hinted at those 
carried on in the lesser islands. But I think I 
have indicated the lines on which commerce will 
advance. The fruit trade is forging ahead ; sugar 
is awakening once more to its great and new 
possibilities; while Jamaica rum, having secured 
its own good title and trade-mark in England by 
punishing all dealers who sell mere decoctions 
made from beet sugar (to which only a tincture of 
the real article has been added), must increase its 

89 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

market value. Coffee and tobacco are on the line 
of progress, while no one can foresee the future of 
cassava. 

Cotton has emerged from a second infancy and 
the experimental stage, and must soon form a 
staple industry in all parts of the West Indies. 
The world's use for cotton cloth is larger in pro- 
portion to the population than it ever was before, 
and the world's advancing prosperity means that 
the finest Sea Island cotton goods will be more and 
more in demand. The world's need of rubber is 
greater too than the supply, and this disproportion 
between the demand and the supply must mean 
that far-seeing little Tobago will reap a golden 
harvest. Judging from the photographs of Mr. 
Noel B. Walker, it is a most successful industry, 
providing natural shade to cocoa, through which it 
is planted and most profitably cultivated. 

All these facts and figures form dry reading 
unless you have a son to place in the world, or 
are seeking for yourself a change of scene and 
occupation. But, apart from those considerations, 
they are informative to those who read between 
the lines, and help to realise the practical side of 
life in the West Indies. 



90 




EAST INDIAN CUTTING COCOA-PODS 



J'hotj by W. S. Campbell 



XIII 

THE RELIGIOUS AND SPIRIT LIFE OF 
THE NATIVE: A MODERN MESSIAH 

THE population of Jamaica at the earliest date of 
which we have any authentic record, viz., in 1673, 
was estimated to be . White, 7700 ; negro, 9504. 

At the emancipation in 1834 the figures (which 
have a special interest here as bearing on facts 
which I will mention later) were : Slaves, 311,070 ; 
tree blacks, 5000; coloured, 40,000; whites, 
15,000 (or only half the white population regis- 
tered in 1791) a total of over 371,000. A little 
more than a quarter of a century later the whites, 
convinced, apparently, that the era of prosperity was 
now closed and that for the most cruel of them 
retribution was at hand, had now fallen to 13,000 ; 
but the coloured people were more than twice as 
numerous, while the black population, though their 
total had been eight times as large, had added to 
their number only as many as the coloured people. 

In other words, the coloured people had increased 
by 100 per cent., the blacks by only 12 per cent. 
A population that in 1861 stood at 441,000 is in 
1907 not fewer than 820,000, of which it is safe to 
say the whites do not exceed the figures of the 
emancipation period, viz., 15,000. 

The problem of government is therefore bound 
up with the habits, life, and outlook of the black 

91 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

population, whom we call native, though in that 
all-inclusive term we take not merely the descen- 
dants of the West African negro, but the Indian 
coolie, an " indentured labourer," and his family. 
And with these we must now couple, for the sake 
of ease of classification, a constantly enlarging 
settlement of Chinese, who have established them- 
selves in Kingston, bringing all the habits and 
customs of their far-away land, and whose lavishly 
gold-bedecked temple was a feature among the 
fallen idols that were later to attract my wondering 
gaze. 

The one person to whom the problem of govern- 
ment is not a consuming subject of speculation and 
inquiry is the native himself. He is the soul of 
good-humour, a child of the sun, in whom irre- 
sponsibility is a natural talent happily expressed in 
some verses, primarily depicting the type of the 
capital, " Quashie " by name : 

Quashie's always happy, 

Quashie him don' care 
Happy when it's gloomy, 

Happy when it's fair. 

When de sun is shinin', 

Den it's jus' all right ; 
When de rain is pourin', 

Better dan were bright. 

Indeed, this irresponsibility is carried by him to 
a fine art and extends to all his relations to life 
and being. Nature itself is an ever-present, bounti- 
ful providence, and, nurtured in the luxurious lap 
of the gods, why should he worry or work ? 
Worry is unknown to him, and work he does not, 
save under pressure of some trifling want. Truly 
I can imagine no human sympathy so utterly wasted 
at home as upon these "poor benighted blacks," 

92 



A MODERN MESSIAH 

and I can truly say that the reader will see more 
cases of suffering, sorrow, and deserving charity in 
crossing Waterloo Bridge at any hour of the day 
or night than he will find in a whole day's in- 
dustrious seeking in any part of Jamaica. 

I recall the story of a visitor contemplating a 
picture that surely gave the lie to this accusation of 
laziness. There on the wharf and in the heat of a 
tropical sun four powerful negroes were in heavy 
labour pushing a great barrel. They had not got 
it far before there was a period of rest and repose, 
an interval in which to take breath and to look at 
each other with that self-satisfied air of 'Now, boys, 
this is a stiff job." The visitor was convinced the 
barrel must be a pifncheon of rum. Imagine his 
surprise the barrel was empty ! 

Old folk-tales still linger on the tongue. Certain 
of these stories seem to link the people across a 
span of more than one or two thousand years, for 
few or none that I have thus far heard or seen 
recorded are new; they are simply slightly changed 
versions of tales that have descended to us through 
other channels. Nor of any distinctive music has 
any one found a trace. Yet the Jamaican negro is 
intensely fond of sound ; nothing depresses him 
like silence. He sings at work, he sings at play, he 
sings in joy, he sings in sorrow. The only time 
he does not sing is when his wrath is kindled ; and 
nothing arouses his righteous indignation more 
than the theft of any trifling possession, or of the 
produce of his garden ; nothing then can equal the 
poignant contempt and condemnation he lavishes 
upon " de niggar who don' dis deed." 

No wonder that among a race so open to the 
influences of the spiritual world, as well as of the 
evil world of his own imaginings, the negro should 
be so ready to sing his childlike, wondering praise 

93 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

of God. He has readily and eagerly appropriated 
our hymns, not always the best of them, and some 
of these rousing revival tunes he sings with an 
energy to suggest that some day we may find 
" black choirs " a new attraction in certain West- 
End churches in London. The hymn, however, 
when it has been sung over and over again, hour 
after hour, becomes an appalling drone. 

The women as they sing at their work, loading 
a ship with bananas, for instance, produce, as I 
heard them, a curious high-pitched tone, with next 
to no enunciation. I could catch no words in 
their plaintive cry, but long after they had stopped 
or gone I learned that these sturdy labourers had 
found their heavy task lightened by the words : 

The King's highway. 

Walking in the light, walking in the Lord, 
Walking in the middle of the King's highway. 

In sorrow groups of the negro population, seated 
among the debris, sang hymns to cheer their weary 
souls throughout the long night of the earthquake; 
in expectant joy they sang the whole night through 
two days earlier, seated in their thousands on the 
banks of the Hope River. These were the con- 
verts of Bedwardism from the name of the negro 
who is the high priest of the faith. 

The story of this man is remarkable, and had no 
disturbing earthquake come I expected to have 
had the advantage of a talk with him on the 
afternoon of the upheaval. My interest had been 
quickened by the record of an uneducated black 
who had been able to impose a kind of modern 
Messiahship upon an immense number of people, 
to gather faithful adherents throughout Jamaica 
and the islands beyond, and to establish evan- 
gelists at Port Limon and other places in Central 
America. 

94 



A MODERN MESSIAH 

I have been told that the real Alexander 
Bed ward is dead, and that another has taken his 
name and place a ridiculous story unworthy of 
repetition save as indicating the quickening sense 
of mystery that surrounds the personality of the 
prophet. 

To what proportions this faith may yet attain 
I would not hazard a guess. The people, from 
my own conversation with his adherents, are filled 
with a superstitious reverence for the man and all 
his works in which the waters of the Hope River 
figure with miraculous healing properties, as well 
as spiritual blessing. The sick, I am told, have 
been brought on stretchers and gone away cured. 

Faith certainly Works wonders. One little con- 
vert of not more than twelve or fourteen years of 
age told me in simple childish fashion how ill he 
had been inside, and he rubbed his hand across his 
waistcoat or rather where his waistcoat would 
have been had he been encumbered with one 
but, having imbibed of the waters sanctified by the 
prophet, he was now quite well. 

It occurred to me that Bedward himself might 
be nothing more than a non-orthodox or " Free 
Baptist," as he calls himself, and that his simple- 
minded people might have added out of their own 
childlike natures the superstructure of Divine 
power to heal. I find it difficult, however, to 
reconcile this view with the practice of selling the 
waters of the Hope River at the precise spot from 
which he chooses to draw it at so much per pint 
bottle. And there is a further touch of supersti- 
tion in his requirement that his converts shall bring 
clear glass bottles ; no black wine-bottles could he 
suffer to be used 1 

When the movement was in its infancy Bedward 
was arrested as a misleading if not a dangerous kind 

95 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

of demagogue. The charge failed, inasmuch as, 
without registering a conviction or acquittal, the 
court adjudged him insane, and passed him on to 
the asylum. When it was too late the legal in- 
formality of all these proceedings was discovered. 
Bedward could not be kept a prisoner in an asylum 
on the order of a court or a lawyer, however 
eminent, the sanity or insanity of a British subject 
requiring all the formalities of an examination by 
two competent medical men. Had any charge 
against Bedward been established in due form, a 
conviction recorded, and sentence passed, it would 
then have been in the power of the prison authori- 
ties, not the tribunal, to pass him on to the 
asylum. That is the legal confusion that arose 
in the Bedward case as represented to me, not by 
a lawyer, but by an ecclesiastic, and I naturally 
offer it with all reserve, the facts being all outside 
my own knowledge. Technical oversights do not 
belong exclusively, however, to our colonies, and, 
whatever the merits of the case, Bedward was 
certainly for a time wrongfully detained as an 
inmate of the asylum. 

On the man's return to liberty Bedwardism 
naturally took a great leap forward, until now 
it is a firmly-established convention, like another 
Lourdes, at August Town, near Kingston, yield- 
ing to its high priest many sound pecuniary 
advantages. 



96 



XIV 
THE BEDWARDITE BAPTISM 

BEDWARD is a very ordinary type of negro. He 
is a tin-smith by trade, and his wife a baker. The 
husband, therefore, makes the pan in which the 
wife bakes the bread on which the converts sustain 
the battle of life. 

One of his neighbours in an interesting note to 
amplify my own observations says : " The cardinal 
note of Bedward's gospel is difficult to determine. 
He claims that the water, after being blessed by 
him, has the power of curing, and does cure, all the 
ills that flesh is heir to, and that the people emerge 
with a spiritual perfection. He claims to be the 
only true prophet. 

"Every month he has a baptismal ceremony. 
Many hundreds of people from Kingston and the 
surrounding districts flock then to him. They 
journey in processions, sometimes half a mile long. 
They frequently use the cars, and it is quite 
curious to see six or eight cars packed with people 
going to the function. . . . On the way there and 
back they sing hymns and chant weird dirges. 
Every one returning carries with him a bottle 
or pan of the water, which he drinks with a full 
belief in its curative powers. The water is the 
ordinary water of the river, and owes its curative 
property to the fact that it has been blessed by 

97 ft 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

the prophet. The converts have a slightly dis- 
tinctive dress, the women covering their heads in 
a white handkerchief wrapped round in a particu- 
lar manner. 

" The baptismal ceremony is held on the banks of 
the river. Bedward and his assistant, whom he 
calls a minister, consecrate the water. 

" Then the ceremony of ' dipping ' commences. 

" The candidate is robed in a white gown of sorts. 
He or she is then brought to the bperator, a man 
ordained by Bedward. They walk into the water 
to a certain depth, the operator stands on a rock, 
and they are immersed twice, the congregation 
chanting : ' Hail to Prophet Bedward ! ' 

" After every one is dealt with, a Communion 
service is held. The fees charged are Is. each 
baptism and 3d. for each communion." 

Sunday, January 13, 1907, was a great festival 
in the calendar of the Bedwardites, as I saw for 
myself. The people came from far and wide from 
every quarter of Jamaica, from lands beyond. 
Round the pool in which the baptisms take place 
is only a restricted space, so that the competition 
for places began early. By nightfall on the Satur- 
day evening the congregation had begun to as- 
semble. Many brought food to sustain themselves 
through the long vigil, others bought it from the 
stalls on the spot. 

The people gathered in hourly increasing groups 
on the steep banks of the beautiful river. Some 
sat on great boulders beside the rushing waters, 
others, alas ! with clear intent, but no consciousness 
of sin, took places under the trees or in the shade 
of thick foliage, while yet others established them- 
selves near the spot where the chief apostle of 
their faith would be seated when the business 
of the day began. It was a cloudless, moonlit 

98 






THE BEDWARDITE BAPTISM 

night, in which the stars too were brilliant orbs of 
light. 

Then the people of the main group began to 
sing, and throughout the night hyrnr after hymn 
was raised, over and over again. 

The dawn breaks quickly, and by 6 or 6.30 A.M. 
everybody was astir. 

" We carefully picked our way down a dirty 
steep descent to the river in company with bare- 
footed, lithe natives, members of this fascinating 
cult, anxious to secure good places to see the 
immersions," says the author of "Ethiopia in 
Exile." 

" At the foot of the hill a mountain torrent in 
a stony bed swept southwards to the sea. On 
either side steep banks rose abruptly from the water. 
A turn in the course of the river displayed to our 
view one of the most interesting sights 1 have ever 
witnessed in Jamaica. Every vantage-point in 
the wooded banks on either side, as well as the 
great boulders which obstructed the shallow, rush- 
ing waters of the Hope River, were covered with 
gaily dressed natives. We looked around, to find 
ourselves the only white people present, although 
we knew others were coming later. Thousands of 
negroes were assembled. . . . Bedward was sitting 
in an arm-chair, dressed in white, surrounded by a 
hierarchy of white-clad negroes carrying roughly- 
nailed wooden crosses. 

" Bedward, as I saw him, is tall, broadly built, 
with a round, fairly intelligent, black-whiskered 
face, but I could divine nothing in his appearance, 
which was that of an ordinary negro, to account 
for the spell he exercises over thousands of his 
brothers and sisters. 

"Two of his evangelists, full-blooded blacks, stood 
in a pool not more, I should say, than seven feet 

M 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

broad by six in length, in about four feet of water ; 
two assistants stood beside them to relieve them of 
the penitents when they had been immersed, and 
several stood at the edge of the pool to arrange the 
long garments worn by the female candidates for 
baptism as they emerged from the water. . . . 
They were beginning then with the women, who, 
in an orderly procession, all respectably clad in 
white, came down from the opposite bank, where 
some tent-like shelters could be seen amongst the 
trees. It was a curious sight to see them handed 
on till they reached the celebrant of the rite, a 
very fat negro, who separately plunged them be- 
neath what looked to me very dirty water, saying, 
' I baptize thee in the name of the Father, Son, 
and Holy Ghost,' whilst the crowd of blacks and 
white-clad Bedwardites, sitting or standing on the 
boulders around, sang, or rather crooned, a verse of 
a hymn at each immersion I tried to catch the 
words, but I could only hear as each person was 
plunged beneath the water the same sing-song 
refrain, e Jesus came, a soul to save.' Many of 
these women had to be helped back up the oppo- 
site banks ; one seemed in convulsions, fighting 
with the air, and rolling her eyes horribly, giving 
the bystanders some trouble to convey her away. 
After the baptism, as I was told, Mrs. Bed ward 
took charge of them in the tent on the opposite 
bank, where they exchanged their dripping gowns 
for their ordinary clothing and partook of break- 
fast, the charge being a shilling a head." 

Thereafter the people repaired to the Bedwardite 
church, a wooden structure in the village of August 
Town and adjoining the home of the prophet. 
More singing, praying, and preaching followed, but 
the crowds could not all obtain admission. Those 
who did had the advantage of putting their contri- 

100 



THE BEDWARDITE BAPTISM 

butions into a printed envelope, bearing the words, 
" Jamaica Baptist Free Church, August Town. A 
free-will offering to our Lord." 

Those who did not secure admission remained 
for hours in the village, eating and drinking and 
singing, and hoping to secure the privilege of con- 
verse with one or other of the latest converts 
(there were over three hundred on this occasion), 
or the still greater delight a sight of their leader. 
As the day wore on I saw, on my return from 
Port Antonio, the people aboard a long line of 
electric tramcars, open at the sides, the seats 
arranged toast-rack fashion, crowding every inch 
of space, a bright and never-ending, merry party. 
As they were swirle'd back into the colonial capital 
their lusty voices, still singing hymns, could be 
heard far and wide. And so ended for them a 
beloved night and day of religious fervour and 
excitement. 

Two months later there was another immense 
Sunday gathering at August Town, at which no 
fewer than 497 Kingston candidates were duly 
dipped and received into the fold of Bedwardism, 
while over 700 more candidates from the country 
were left over for another celebration. 

The " New Messiah " found, as well he might, a 
fund of cynical pleasure in the spectacle of one or 
two white faces amongst his newest recruits, and 
he instructed his dippers thus : 

" Dip dem deep, boys, and if dem gwine to run, 
ketch dem, and dip dem deeper a second time." 

One or two attempts at a disturbance were made, 
a battle with sticks occurring within a couple of 
yards from the centre. 

"Peace, black people, peace!' said Bedward, 
admonishing the law-breakers with all the calm 
assurance of dignity of a patriarch or a prophet 

101 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Thousands of people were present, and at one 
time what threatened to become a serious disturb- 
ance was averted by the arrival of the police. 

So ended the Bedwardite baptismal ceremony 
a monstrous and wicked travesty of one of the most 
important rites of the religious life of Christendom, 
and yet full of significance in any attempt to 
appreciate the spiritual life of native Jamaica. 



102 



XV 
CHILDREN IN MIND 

THERE are, however, saner sides of religious life 
among the native population of Jamaica. To 
suggest otherwise would be an injustice to the 
earnest and largely successful work carried on in 
the name of the Church of England, Roman 
Catholicism, Wesleyan Methodism, the Salvation 
Army, the Moravians, Pennyites, Matthewites, the 
Seventh Day Adventists, and nearly all others 
besides. 

The Adventists were holding a great West In- 
dian Convention in Kingston when the upheaval 
put an untimely end to their deliberations. We 
did not escape on the ship, during the voyage from 
Bridgetown, Barbados, to Kingston, Jamaica, the 
efforts of their lady missionaries. In a moment of 
mental obscuration and weakness I admitted, on 
being presented with some of their literature, that 
my knowledge of Adventism was limited to the 
belief that it was some exaltation of one day in 
the week over all other days. 

For this offence I was treated to a long lecture, 
for which I had only myself to blame, the purpose 
of which was to show 'that if I were a sick man, 
with a different bottle of medicine for each day of 
the week, and that if instead of taking No. 7 on the 
seventh day 1 took No. 1, and were poisoned and 

103 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

died, I alone should be to blame. The argument 
seemed to be that if I took Tuesday's mixture on 
Wednesday I should be quite done for, and that if I 
insisted on going to church on Sunday instead of 
Saturday I should be doomed. I wondered why 
that poison was " knocking around " in my medicine 
at all, but experience had taught me caution, and a 
lurching ship in the eternally rough Caribbean 
Sea has a subduing effect upon any natural spirit 
of inquiry on idle abstract questions of this kind. 

The Church of England is guided in its mission 
to the people by Archbishop Nuttall, a man for 
whom every one has a kindly and appreciative 
word ; and his is a name that shines through the 
dust and smoke of a stricken city after an earth- 
quake as every inch an administrator and a man. 
His " memorandum " dealing with the management 
of the city's affairs under abnormal conditions, the 
immediate requirements of the people, and the 
suggested plans for opening up sources of income 
for reconstruction, and for the observance of sani- 
tation, was a plain, straightforward, businesslike 
document, wholly unlike what one expects from 
an ecclesiastic, though I am not unmindful of the 
fact that there are innumerable instances of great 
administrators among great ecclesiastics. 

Whether from motives of economy or necessity 
or with the motive of reaching the largest number, 
the Archbishop has accepted into the priesthood 
the services of the black as well as the coloured 
native (more than half the priesthood is now black 
or coloured), and in the country church the con- 
gregation as a result is wholly black, the white 
planter and his family being never seen within its 
walls at any service. In many cases there is no 
white planter to come. But in any event I must 
make at least one exception to the rule, and that 

104 



CHILDREN IN MIND 

in the case of the Rev. Mr. Douce, now of Moore- 
town, but formerly of Manchioneal. 

Mr. Douce has enlisted the esteem of the white 
without forfeiting the confidence of the black, and 
his admitted success is one of the facts with which 
we have to reckon. As a clergyman candidly but 
rather cynically said to me, " One of the saddest 
facts I know is that Douce has not turned out a 
failure. His success is indisputable." 

How far, however, the native population of the 
West Indies is capable of comprehending the faith 
of the Christian Church there is no question of a 
willingness to try I find it difficult to say, and 
am naturally dependent upon those who through 
long years of experience and observation are entitled 
to judge. 

The people are but children in mind, as well 
as in all their ways of life. Their religion is not 
based on reason. That would not be conclusive 
proof of itself, if it is accepted that all religion is 
based on faith in that which cannot be demon- 
strated to the physical senses. The black man's faith, 
however, is a religion of ceremony and show and 
emotional exaltation. I dismiss at once all thought 
of his unmoral life, for it would be absurd to expect 
to replace thus early polygamy, or a gregarious life 
that he has inherited from countless centuries of 
existence in darkest Africa, by monogamy, for 
which by instinct and education he is wholly 
unfitted, and which he cannot understand. 

" What for God make me so ? " asks the negro 
in justification of his sensuous life. The argument 
is to him irrefutable. 

Even if we condone, too, his unconquerable 
propensity to steal, not money or jewellery, for 
these thefts are unworthy of him, but cocoanuts 
and bananas, we might still hope to find something 

105 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

of the essential spirit of Christian teaching reflected 
in his daily life. I fear we shall hope in vain, not 
from any lack of intelligence or enthusiasm on the 
part of his pastors, or from lack of sincerity on 
the part of the convert himself within the bounds 
of his superficial nature, but wholly from want of 
a mind large enough to take in even the merest 
elements of our faith. It is a long story, but let 
me explain. 

Sunday morning in any village of our West 
Indian possessions is like nothing so much as a 
great fcsta in one of the lesser towns of Italy. It 
is the same national holiday, and if one misses the 
note of responsive gaiety of the one, there is in its 
stead a whole people in the brightest gala attire. 

The " poor black," for whom your sympathy and 
generosity are regularly invoked at home on the 
day of the annual appeal for foreign missions, is 
nowhere to be seen. He exists somewhere, no 
doubt, but the light of day has come to the West 
Indian negro in vain if he cannot turn out on 
Sunday in shapely and presentable boots prefer- 
ably brown boots, and still more preferably those 
that squeak. 

"Why boots that squeak?" you would surely 
ask, but for the remembrance that in that squeak 
there lies embodied the fact, announced to all and 
sundry at every step, that he has boots at all 1 
He must have a white shirt too, a high collar, in 
which he suffers torture, and a tie of flaming colour 
everything white save the boots which are brown, 
the face that is black, and the tie whose colours 
defy enumeration. 

Mrs. Brown or Mrs. Lily white I never heard 
such inappropriate names, Christian names and 
surnames, as many of these people have annexed 
at their own whim and fancy is also adorned in 

106 



CHILDREN IN MIND 

purple and fine linen. In Barbados I found that 
colours did not figure largely in the attire of the 
native women, who were nearly all in white, 
unrelieved by any tint or contrast. In Jamaica 
colour in every variety of combination was the 
rule ; and here, as throughout the islands, there is 
the most intense love of fancy laces, chiefly of the 
Calais variety. 

It would be amazing to note how willingly the 
women suffer many weeks of toilsome labour in 
order to secure these pretty things for Sunday, 
were it not for the knowledge that in hardly any 
other direction have they any use whatever for 
money. 



107 



XVI 
THE FIRST COMMUNION 

THE first communion, which in any French vil- 
lage, with its picture of a proud and happy cure 
contemplating the all-embracing and ever-widening 
fold of the Church, the presence, perhaps, of the 
striking figure of the bishop in almost regal vest- 
ments, contrasted with the group before him of 
white penitents on their knees, is so sweet and 
beautiful a sight, becomes in the West Indies no 
more than a vain ceremony in which the mothers 
vie with each other in turning out their children in 
immaculate white. 

There are the same white dress, white socks, 
white shoes, white veil and girdle, and flowing sash 
of broad white ribbon. Perhaps it is true that 
parents nearer home than the West Indies are 
not untouched by the same spirit of show and 
rivalry, but there the likeness to the Old Country 
ends. 

These children of an unredeemed past are wholly 
unconscious of the significance of the ceremony 
and the vows they have pledged. It has been, 
rather, a little show in which they have had the 
privilege of taking quite an important part ; and 
the heart-breaking character and unutterable hope 
lessness of his mission comes home to the priest 
when he finds a girl candidate can pass from a first 




Photo by y. If. Clt.iry, A'lH 



RETURNING FROM MARKKT 



THE FIRST COMMUNION 

communion in all her alluring finery and sinless 
virgin pride, " not having spot and without 
blemish," to an unblessed motherhood that is 
simple innocence itself. 

At St. Lucia the Father one day received a visit 
from two black youths who told him they wanted 
to join his Church. 

" And why would you like to become Catholics ? " 
asked the Father. 

" Because," said the spokesman of the little 
party, in that most curious of all patois, negro- 
English-French, "we want to wear those red 
coats and white jackets " (meaning the red cassock 
and white surplice), " same as Johnny Brown, and 
wait upon the Father at Mass." 

What is true of the children is equally true of 
their elders. Religion is first of all an excuse for 
the display of clothing, and all the teaching in the 
world will not get the native to church on Sunday 
if he has only torn shoe>s to wear, though wholly 
uncovered feet were no disgrace the other six days 
of the week, and after that it is a social distinction 
and the occasion for interminable sing-song and 
rapturous excitement. 

The plain truth seems to be that the Jamaican 
negro has accepted the Christian faith without 
really impairing his belief in the superstitions of 
his youth and his ancestry. Church-going and 
chapel-going, baptism, confirmation, communion, 
harvest festivals, and the whole round of spiritual 
obligation, according to the particular denomina- 
tion to which, by some haphazard choice, he has 
attached himself, all represent an amount of social 
distinction which he would not willingly forfeit for 
much more than the six shillings per annum it 
usually costs. 

To say that seems to make it appear that he is 

109 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

as worldly in his religion as the most worldly of 
congregations to be found in London and certain 
of our big centres of population, where the Christian 
teaching is so nicely trimmed and carved down, 
the singing so good and the deep, sonorous notes 
of the organ so truly comforting where, indeed, 
no reminder of neglected duty is permitted to 
obtrude itself and disturb our conviction that 
everything is as it should be in this best of all 
possible worlds. To suggest such a thing would be 
the most absurd injustice to the negro character. 
There is nothing in Jamaica quite so inherently 
insincere, wickedly bad, and soothing as that. 

The negro's religion is one of intense enthusiasm ; 
his gratitude to God is overpowering, and he often 
loses all control of himself in his grovelling pros- 
tration and sensuous exaltation. But, Sunday 
over, away goes the faith, of which he has really 
no comprehension. Then will he steal from his 
neighbour's piece without the slightest compunc- 
tion. He will steal even from his parson's patch ; 
and I was amused to hear how one such pastor, 
with more than an elementary knowledge of 
chemistry, discovered the culprits by this device : 
He put a compound of chlorate of potash and sugar 
in a bottle, and into the mixture a piece of test- 
tube containing a strong solution of oil of vitriol ; 
attaching this by wire to the best bunches of his 
bananas, he retreated and waited. 

The unsuspecting thieves cut off a ripe bunch, 
thereby tilting the acid into the mixture. There 
was a great flare and a tremendous report. Rush- 
ing to the spot with a lantern, he found two men, 
one still up the tree, and both in a state of abject 
fright. One man was a churchwarden, and the 
other a lesser officer of the church a sidesman, I 
think ! 

110 



THE FIRST COMMUNION 

In another case the clergyman set his parish in 
an uproar by insisting that the superintendent of 
the Sunday school should be the husband of one 
wife only, and that this union should be sanctified 
according to the rites of the Church. It was an 
amazing interference with the private home life of 
one of the most active and liberal members of his 
church. 

Besides, nice distinctions of that kind were so 
restrictive, so unheard-of, and so unnecessary ! 



Ill 



XVII 
A WEST INDIAN WAKE 

IT is natural that among such a people death 
should be surrounded by many superstitions. 
Most awesome is the superstition that the devil 
will come and claim his own in the spirit of the 
dying. He is pictured to their imagination as a 
calf with a dangling chain about his neck. The 
reader, therefore, may imagine the sense of terror 
when the sound of a chain falls upon the ear of the 
negro after nightfall. 

Any water that may have been in the house at 
the moment of the passing must be instantly 
thrown away ; for with the Jamaican death is a 
devil, never an angel, and as he cools his deadly 
dart in water on going out, one may judge the 
danger of using the poisoned liquid. If the cabin 
boasts a mirror it will be turned to the wall, or 
otherwise obscured, that the disembodied spirit 
may not be reflected therein. Relatives and neigh- 
bours and friends will immediately assemble and 
bemoan the fate of the departed brother, account- 
ing for death as circumstances would suggest, any 
mystic omen being readily seized upon by way of 
explanation. 

Hymns are sung the whole night through until 
they become a terrible and wearisome drawl, while 
some of the more panic-stricken may at intervals 

112 




I fpfc 







A WEST INDIAN WAKE 

draw back the sheet from the face of the dead 
lying in their midst, and beg the phantom spirit to 
have mercy upon them and not reappear. 

Interment is not long delayed. Within twelve 
or twenty-four hours at most the body is put into 
a plain wooden box, and frequently buried in the 
garden surrounding the cabin or in any neighbour- 
ing patch, cemeteries being a rather expensive 
notion of our own. A weighty stone will be 
placed over the grave if the money is available to 
buy one, and by the size and weight of the stone 
will the mourners judge of the probability of a 
return visit of the " duppy," or spirit, of the de- 
parted. Meanwhile fresh water will be brought 
into the death chaihber and a light kept burning 
for nine days the light to light the way of death, 
the water to quench his thirst. 

The mourning ended, then comes the Ninth 
Day Feast, which is not unlike an Irish wake. 
There will be eating and drinking and hierry- 
making, but also (unlike any Irish wake of which 
I have any knowledge) much other indulgence of 
a less innocent kind. 

If the " duppy " does not rest in his grave, but 
persists in pestering his wife with his unwelcome 
attentions when she has taken another husband to 
her bosom, making noises at night, &c., a fresh 
feast must be arranged. This is the real Bella- 
Bella or Jumbi dance, for which there is a strict 
and extraordinary ritual. 

Some fowls, a pig, and a goat will be killed, and 
a portion of their blood sprinkled over the floor and 
round the outside of the dwelling. 

The law makes an unavailing effort to put down 
certain dances those wilder outbursts that belong 
to the darker past of the West African forest. The 
guests therefore often come in secret. With no 

113 H 



CRUISE OP THE PORT KINGSTON 

lack of heart or deficiency of appetite do they 
dispose ~of the liberal diet provided for their enter- 
tainment. The company range themselves round 
the room, male and female alternately. 

The function begins by the hostess solemnly 
oblating about half a bottle of rum in the centre of 
the floor. Thereafter the bottle passes freely round 
the room. A phrase of perhaps six or seven notes 
will be played by the musicians on the drum and 
tambourine, and violin, if one is available slowly 
at first, but repeated again and again, at a steadily 
advancing pace, the guests meanwhile keeping 
time by clapping their hands. When the music 
has attained a high pitch and the nervous excite- 
ment has become intense, five or seven of the 
guests of both sexes step into the middle of the 
floor, and there sing and dance the " Ballade " 
words only used for this ceremony. 

In the development of uncontrollable frenzy one 
(or perhaps more) of the dancers will give a loud 
shout, execute a frantic pirouette, and give a wild 
bound into the air, striking, maybe, the rafters with 
his head. Falling convulsed, he will be picked up 
and questioned by the hostess, the beat of the 
drums and the clapping of hands having now 
fallen' back to the old slow measure. 

" Who are you ? " the woman will ask. 

" I am " the man will reply, giving the 

name of the deceased ; and, despite the din, all will 
marvel how the exact tones of the dead are repro- 
duced in the tongue of the living. 

" What for you disturb Caroline ? You not like 
me love Malcolm ? " 

And so the questions go on, the babel of music, 
clapping of hands, and singing continuing without 
a break until the Jumbi quits the possessed. In 
the end the "duppy" may be appeased by the 

114, 



A WEST INDIAN WAKE 

hostess solemnly proceeding to the grave of her late 
spouse, killing thereon a black cock, sprinkling the 
tomb with its blood, over which the contents of 
a bottle of rum are next emptied as a final act of 
peace. 

No self-respecting " duppy " can resist such digni- 
fied attentions. He will be content now to take 
his eternal rest and leave Malcolm and his wife in 
peace and quiet. 

Kingsley has a Jumbi dance in " At Last," full 
of graphic detail but misleading. " The hut," he 
says, " was lighted by some eight or ten candles or 
lamps ; and in the centre, dimly visible, was a 
Fetish, somewhat of the appearance of a man, but 
with the head of a cock. Everything that the 
coarsest fancy could invent had been done to make 
this image horrible ; and yet it appeared to be the 
object of special adoration to the devotees as- 
sembled. . . . Martin (almost naked and his body 
painted so as to represent a skeleton) took his seat 
astride of an African tom-tom or drum . . . now 
began to chant a monotonous African song. . . . 
Gradually he began to quicken the measure ; 
quicker went the words, quicker beat the drum, 
and suddenly one of the women sprang into the 
open space in front of the Fetish. Round and 
round she went, keeping admirable time with the 
music. Quicker still went the drum. And now 
the whole of the woman's body seemed electrified 
by it ; and, as if catching the infection, a man 
joined her in the mad dance. Couple after couple 
entered the arena, and a true sorcerer's sabbath 
began, while light after light was extinguished, till 
at last but one remained." 

The presence of a fetish at all disposes of the 
idea that this was any rite belonging to Obeah, or 
that it was a Jumbi dance at all. There are im- 

115 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

portant distinctions in all these celebrations ; differ- 
ences too, though infinitely less marked, in the 
ritual observed in the celebration of the same rite 
on one island as compared with another, a fact 
which I hope to show in a later chapter. 

But in all the West Indian islands the mystic fear 
of the beautiful silk-cotton tree figures as one of 
the most firmly established superstitions. In the 
daytime it is an object of veneration, at night an 
object of terror. Its great height and wide-spread- 
ing branches, with the flying buttresses which 
support and flank its root, serve to constitute it 
one of the most picturesque features of any land- 
scape. 

No Jamaican native can be induced to cut down 
in cold blood a silk-cotton tree, from fear of the 
angry spirits who would thereafter torture his 
whole life. And I heard many stories of bold 
bad men who, primed with rum, cut down such 
trees (vandals they were certainly, whether white 
or black), and dug up the roots in order to clear 
the land for a few banana suckers. But these men 
could never have been prevailed upon to do such 
work had they not first made an effort, admittedly 
vain, to soothe the disturbed spirits by liberal 
libations of rum poured over the exposed roots of 
the tree. No wonder, then, that I heard, too, of 
the terrible fate which soon overtook the sacri- 
legious men who perpetrated the actual deed, and 
the agony of sleepless nights which was the heritage 
of the white employer. 

" Returning home shortly after nightfall," re- 
lated a planter to me, " 1 found my groom some 
two hundred yards away, leaning up against a fence 
in a state of the most pitiable grief, shedding oceans 
of tears, because he could not get back without 
passing under a silk-cotton tree ! It seems that 

116 






A WEST INDIAN WAKE 

after dusk the ' duppies ' hang up their cloaks on 
the branches, and woe betide any one who disturbs 
their clothes-pegs ! " 

Sometimes I heard the silk-cotton tree spoken 
of as the abiding-place of a little people gifted with 
many strange and weird powers. We all know 
these little people of old ; they do not exclusively 
haunt the black man's imagination. They are to 
be found in various guises in nearly all parts of 
Europe, in France no less than among the intelli- 
gent and highly imaginative people of Norway, 
just as they are familiar enough to us all in the 
Isle of Man. In Jamaica, however, they are 
clothed in powers of darkness that are very terri- 
fying. Yet they are not, apparently, gifted with 
eternal life, being, as I have shown, simply the 
ghostly presence of those only whom we have 
known in the physical world. 



117 



XVIII 
THE LEGEND OF THE DIABLESSE 

MAMADJO (Mamadjoo ? Maman - Dijou ? the 
reader may take his own choice of spelling) is 
the spirit that inhabits the silk-cotton tree as a 
permanent home. The name is also borne by an 
ethereal creature that abides in the waterfall and 
river (referred to in a later chapter), like another 
Fossegrim of Norse folklore. 

Mamadjo is a white woman, and is pictured to 
the imagination of the negro as bearing a child in 
her arms, with another child standing at her feet. 
The people make offerings, bringing to the foot of 
the tree fruit, cooked food, and clothes. 

Sometimes in the shade of the silk-cotton 
tree may be found knives, forks, plates, and 
glasses a complete meal for one, nicely set out 
on a clean napkin with a small bottle of rum 
standing uncorked beside it. After a time, the 
food, which no sacrilegious hands will despoil, is 
carefully removed and thrown into the nearest 
stream. 

In the hollows of the trunk formed by the 
buttresses of the sinewy tree, " Hags " (known in 
the French-speaking islands of the West Indies as 
" Souquiants ") the conscious spirits of living 
persons acting elsewhere, separate from the skin or 

118 



THE LEGEND OF THE DIABLESSE 

entranced body make their homes and hold their 
Sabbats." 

The belief in loogaroos is another form of the 
same superstition. All relate to human beings, 
generally old women, who have made a compact 
with the devil by which, in exchange for certain 
mystic powers, they have pledged themselves to 
provide Satanus with a certain quantity of human 
blood. 

Every night at first cock-crow, the moon being 
favourable, the loogaroos wend their way to the 
silk-cotton tree, and there divest themselves of 
their human form, each becoming visible as a ball 
of bluish fire which passes through the air like an 
astral body on its hiission of blood. If you have a 
played-out, languid feeling on awakening in the 
morning, then the loogaroo has sucked away your 
strength, and you must safeguard yourself against 
another visit, or you will assuredly waste away and 
die. 

Any tiny niche or cranny will admit the enemy, 
but if you sprinkle rice and sand before your cabin 
door, the loogaroo must wait and count every 
seedling and grain of sand before entering. If by 
some unheard-of chance you find the folded up 
skin of a loogaroo, your duty is to seize upon it* 
at once, and pound it in a mortar with pepper 
and fine salt. The vampire cannot then resume 
any human form, and must soon die from cold 
and exposure. 

The silk-cotton tree figures in a " Nancy Story " 
(Nancy from Anansi, a word that has reached the 
West Indies from far away Ashanti, meaning 
spider in this case the long-legged blackish 
variety carrying the big white sack), and with 
this I must have done with this figment of dread 
fancy. 

119 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

A priest passing a large silk-cotton tree caught 
sight of a little devil playing outside one of the 
buttress hollows. The father caught him and, in 
the name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, 
bound him to the tree with silken threads drawn 
from his girdle. 

" When shall I be freed from the holy spell and 
set at liberty ? " was the pleading inquiry of the 
little prisoner. 

" When women cease to conceive and bear chil- 
dren," replied the father. 

Since then no woman passes the silk-cotton tree 
without hearing the oft-repeated question : 

" Even yet, have not women ceased to conceive 
and bear children ? " 

In the lapse of years, dust and leaves have 
gathered round the roots of the tree, but the devil 
still lives on, though his feet are buried in the 
ground. 

Another West Indian legend, equally worthy of 
the vivifying pen of Ingoldsby, relates to the 
Diablesse. There are again points of similarity to 
the folk-stories of lands nearer home, the belief in 
Huldren, for instance, on which the youth of 
Norway are reared. 

Huldren, as I remember I am recalling the 
story as I heard it during a long summer holiday 
two or three years ago lives in a great castle hid 
away in the forest. She is a woman of surpassing 
beauty and charm, with blue eyes and rich tresses 
of golden hair. Her voice is as sweet as a caress ; 
her kiss is a dream of honeyed bliss. But Huldren 
only pretends to be human, for she has a cow's tail 
which she deftly hides. She laments her single 
state and tries to lure the innocent and confiding 
young man to her home in the trees with promises 
of love, and joy, and wealth. If the young man 

120 



THE LEGEND OF THE DIABLESSE 

listens to the voice of the charmer he finds he is 
wedded to a vampire who sucks his blood to his 
eternal hurt. 

In Jamaica, we have a fair and beautiful woman 
with shining hair. She has one human foot and 
one cloven hoof which she carefully conceals from 
observation. She inhabits "a purty little house, 
bery nice put away " on the mountains. 

She is supposed to be the duppy of a child that 
has died in innocence and to have reached maturity 
in Jumbidom, or some hidden sphere of the negro 
imagination. Returning to the scene of her birth, 
she bewails her virginity in tears of ravishing 
beauty. The lonely wanderer on the high moun- 
tain road is touched by pity. 

Enticed to her home, he is fascinated by her 
exquisite beauty. Eye and ear are enslaved. Her 
figure is as shapely and supple as that of a goddess, 
her face is a dream of tender beauty, her voice is a 
rapturous endearment, her laughter as bright and 
joyous as a silver bell, her breath is a sweet in- 
toxicating exhalation of Paradise. 

A captive truly in the chains of adoring lover 

The awakening comes on apace, and the black 
man's cup of bitter anguish is filled to running 
over the fair charmer is only an alluring 
devil. 

The West Indies have a store of legends also of 
" Fair Maids," closely resembling the fairies of 
Celtic folklore, from whom, as with the Daoine 
Mah, the knowledge of the medicinal virtues of 
many herbs was first obtained. The mystic powers 
animating these people are sometimes secured for 
the service of humanity by secret spells. But 
Heaven help any one upon whom has fallen the 
unhappy fate of yielding obedience instead of 
commanding it. 

121 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

In the " Arabian Nights " we have the story of 
the fisherman who hauls up in his net a copper jar 
in which an active threatening spirit was imprisoned. 
The negro, drawing apparently on the same fount 
of imaginative inspiration has embraced the theory 
that these nature spirits must not be trifled with, 
and that the end of all such intercourse is that they 
become their master's master. Like sailors, they 
are apt to become troublesome if not kept hard 
at work. There is a legend of one energetic 
agent whose capacity for work was a terror and a 
bewilderment to his master. Directed to cleave a 
rocky mountain peak into three parts, the spirit 
returned to his master after one night's absence 
the task was done. Then he was told to lay a line 
of stepping-stones from one West Indian Island to 
another. This was the work of a day. Then by an 
effort of cunning, the master found relief ; he set 
the spirit to make ropes out of the sand on the 
seashore. The luckless spirit has never returned, 
and is said to be still vainly baffling with his hope- 
less task. 

The Rolling Calf is, however, a much more 
common superstition ; and few there be who have 
not either seen the fiery eyes or heard the rattling 
chains on the hillside after dark. The Rolling Calf 
is a fearsome thing, but curiously enough cannot 
overtake his victim going uphill. To escape from 
the Rolling Calf is therefore a sure way of falling a 
victim to the allurements of the Diablesse. 

These are merely the shadowy superstitions of 
the West Indian negroes. Obeah is the all inclu- 
sive god, and the reader may judge how completely 
and overwhelmingly is their intelligence led captive 
when I say, in the words of an honoured and 
respected Roman father who has laboured long 
and earnestly in their midst, " Left to themselves 

122 



THE LEGEND OF THE DIASLESSE 

these people would be Obeah pagans and the 
Christian faith utterly obliterated in less than 
twenty years." 

Other equally competent authorities tell me 
that less than half that period would complete 
that unholy task. 



123 



XIX 

OBEAHISM 

WHAT is this Obi or Obeah, which after more than 
a century's Christianising effort lurks behind every 
pledge of faith, and against which no legislation 
can prevail ? 

I have shown on another page that Jamaica, in 
common with most of the islands of the West 
Indies, is inhabited by a people drawn, to the 
extent of 98 or even 99 per cent, from the West 
Coast of Africa, and the point is of interest in this 
connection. The term Obeah may be derived from 
the substantive Obi, a terror still familiar among 
the inhabitants of the jungle, and denoting a 
corrupt form of serpent-worship drawn from the 
people on the East Coast of the Dark Continent, 
with whom witchcraft, sorcery, and fetishism are 
natural phases of their spirit life. 

For this explanation this much may be said. In 
Egypt, Ob or Aub was a serpent, and Obion is still 
the Egyptian word for a serpent. Did not Moses 
forbid the Israelites ever to seek divination from 
the demon Ob ? converted in our Bible to charmer, 
or wizard, or sorcerer. The Hon. Hesketh J. Bell, 
now of Dominica, and author of a work on this 
subject, says that "the witch of Endor is called 
Oub or Ob, translated Pythonissa, and Oubois 
was the name of the basilisk or royal serpent, 

124 



OBEAHISM 

emblem of the sun, and an ancient oracular deity 
of Africa." 

Thinly veiled, the word has been traced back 
into Egyptian mythology. But these cognates 
may be or may not be. As Max M tiller truly 
and wittily observes, "Sound etymology has 
nothing to do with sound." There is admittedly 
a suspicion of doubt in the speculations I have 
indicated, and particularly when we come to see 
how widely apart is Obeah-Wanga from Voodoo 
(or Voudou or Tchanga). 

Obeah relates to killing, Wanga to a spell, an 
incantation or a deadly drug, and is a system of 
single magic. 

Voodoo (or Vo6dou, the derivation of which is 
in a way an etymological romance) relates to a 
dual system celebrated by a Papaloi (priest) and 
Mamaloi (priestess) acting together, and in the 
presence of the sacred snake or fetish of the faith. 

Two sects are comprised in the faith of Voodoo. 

(a) The Vodun-T'changa (Les Mysteres of the 
French West Indian Settlements). Colour white. 
Fetish : the harmless macajuel. The sacrifice : ripe 
fruits, milk, and the blood of pure white cocks and 
spotless white goats. 

(6) The Vidu-T'changa. Colour red. Fetish : 
the poisonous green vidu. Sacrifice : the blood of 
black cocks and black goats, &c. On high festivals, 
the flesh and blood of the human victim i.e., " the 
goat without horns." 

The rites of the first, the cult of Obeah, are 
practised throughout the West Indies ; the rites 
of the latter are practised in secret and at the 
perpetration of the supreme sacrifice in the pre- 
sence only of tried adherents. 

No legislation, seemingly, can stamp out these 
twain gods of evil. " Obeahism," I am quoting 

125 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

from Mr. Livingstone's "Black Jamaica/' "runs 
like a black thread of mischief through the known 
history of the race. It is the result of two con- 
ditions, an ignorant and superstitious receptivity 
on the one hand, and on the other, sufficient intelli- 
gence and cunning to take advantage of this 
quality. The Obeahman is any negro who gauges 
the situation and makes it his business to work on 
the fears of his fellows. He claims the possession 
of occult authority and professes to have the power 
of taking or saving life, of causing or curing disease, 
of bringing ruin or creating prosperity, of discover- 
ing evil-doers, or vindicating the innocent. His 
implements are a few odd scraps, such as cock's 
feathers, rags, bones, bits of earth from graves and 
so on. The incantations with which he accom- 
panies his operations are merely a mumble of 
improvised jargon. His real advantage in the 
days of slavery lay in his knowledge and use of 
poisonous plants. Poisoning does not now enter 
into his practices to any extent, but the fear he 
inspires among the ignorant is intense, and the fact 
that he has turned his attention to particular 
persons is often sufficient to deprive them of 
reason. Obeahism is a superstition at once simple, 
foolish and terrible, still vigorous, but in former 
times as powerful an agent as slavery itself in 
keeping the nature debased." 

Indeed, nothing can happen in a Jamaican 
village in which the Obeahman has not a part. 
If a native has suffered a wrong, the Obeahman 
will detect the offender and bring down the ven- 
geance of Heaven ; no black man will have any 
recourse to the law without first conciliating the 
fates of evil through the medium of Obeah. He is 
the spectre at every feast, and in the hour of death 
he is the spirit who has claimed a fresh victim. 

126 



OBEAHISM 

Yet the Obeahman is in reality nothing more 
than a low, vulgar, lazy and cunning negro, un- 
washed, ragged, sometimes half mad, but almost 
inevitably diseased a poor creature who has on 
this wise elected to trade upon the ignorance and 
cupidity of his fellows. Obeah is at best a mere 
God of Evil ; you may propitiate him to leave you 
in peace, or you may prevail on him to destroy 
your enemy usually by a herbal poison which 
your hired accomplice administers to the un- 
suspecting victim. 

Obeah's temple may be any native's wattled 
hut, and his altar resolve itself into a darkened 
room with a burning lamp that reveals the solemn- 
faced impostor seated at a bench. He has before 
him a volume of Thomas a Kempis, which possibly 
he cannot read, and around him an assortment of 
cock-feathers or head of a cock, or a cat, rags, 
bones, earth gathered from a recent grave, and 
perhaps, by rare luck, a hand cut off at the wrist 
from the body of the newly dead. 

This is the pagan streak of Jamaican native life 
that defies all humanising and uplifting effort, and 
seems, within our narrow ken, to mock the prayers 
of men and women who have given of their best in 
a great and good cause. 

Not without a certain cynical laugh does one 
find sometimes the trees of a plantation decked 
out with strange guardians of law and order. A 
white planter in sheer exasperation at the loss of 
growing crops, will finally make use of Obeah, and 
44 dress his gardens "- despite the protest of priest 
or Roman father by hanging from branches a 
galaxy of wonder-workers ; an open hand coloured 
red is most effective (the trade mark of a prominent 
Burton firm of brewers, such as one sees every day 
on the hoardings of London, would answer admir- 

127 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

ably), a few old bones, a bottle of any black or blue 
liquid with a dead cockroach floating on its surface, 
a triangular piece of board (pointing downwards) 
on which a similarly shaped piece of black cloth 
has been glued, a miniature coffin or two, into 
which a little skin bag has been placed, contain- 
ing an egg, a chicken bone, some nails, a bean or 
two, a few feathers, and bits of rag of different 
colour. 

From such a plantation the negro will " Please 
Gawd tief no more." But whatever the offence, 
and whoever the culprit may be, the white man 
need only loudly announce to all and sundry that 
he has got the footprint, and means in the true 
Obeah fashion to cast into the fire the earth that 
was so impressed, that the offender may waste away 
and die ; within the hour the wrong-doer will be on 
his knees at your feet, cringing and begging for 
relief from such an awful doom. 

" I put Obeah ? pon you " is, in fact, the most 
dread threat and calamity that can befall the negro 
of Jamaica. Sometimes you may find, as a result 
of a serious difference with some of your servants, 
that they invoke without warning the aid of 
their pagan god. A rusty knife suspended at your 
front door is an unfailing sign ; and this reminds 
me that, visiting a planter's home, I found in a 
prominent position on one of the steps leading up 
to the piazza the half of a cocoanut into which 
various oddments had been placed, but of which I 
could distinguish only charcoal. 

" What's this doing here ? " I asked. 

" Can't imagine. Been there for days." 

" Is it Obeah ?" I asked dubiously. 

" May be so, only I can't think of any trouble to 
account for his attentions." 

66 No feathers and no earth," I said, looking 

128 



OBEAHISM 

critically and amusedly at the deposition. " Have 
they any God of Good ' then ? " 

" Don't fancy they have. Must be Obeah." 

And there it remained. 

The more approved way of condemning you to 
the cruel fate of Obeah is to find in your pocket an 
assortment of chicken bones or on your pillow a 
dried lizard, feathers from a white cock, or a 
malodorous decoction of poisonous herbs in a 
bottle, or it may be nothing more serious than 
some evil-smelling liquid from a neighbouring 
swamp. 

Then, as showing how the black native of 
Jamaica engrafts his superstitions upon his faith 
as a Christian, the actual experience of a Baptist 
missionary is worth recounting. From his bedroom 
window he had a glimpse of the upper portion of a 
window of his chapel. Late one night he observed 
in these panes the distinct reflection of a dim light. 
Believing that something was amiss, he put on a 
dressing-gown and went down the narrow path 
leading from his house to the vestry door, which 
he noiselessly entered. 

Opening the door from the vestry to the chapel, 
he found a select company of his church members, 
including certain of his chief officers, sitting, squat- 
ting, standing in the centre of the floor. And 
here they were in a Christian temple going through 
their pagan invocations ! assembled as their an- 
cestors had assembled at the call of the Sacred 
Drum to render honour and sacrifice to the Totem 
Snake in the far-off days of old, the days of an 
untamed, unfettered, unlettered existence in the 
heart of an African forest. 



129 



XX 

A VOODOO CANNIBALISTIC FEAST 

SUPERSTITION takes many forms among the black 
native population of the West Indian Islands, 
though underlying them all is the same immemorial 
serpent worship. 

A resident in Granada tells of an incident within 
his own experience. He met a curious procession 
on its way in the late evening to the Grand Etang, 
one of the loveliest spots in Granada, a lake up in 
the mountains at an altitude of close upon 2000 feet. 
Though he appears to have been misled into the 
belief that it was a mission to conciliate Mamadjo, 
the Mother of Wood as well as Water, it reads 
strangely like a procession to a Voodoo sacrifice. 

" First came four or five stalwart negroes carry- 
ing pink, red and white flags, followed by a group 
of old women, dressed up in red cotton frocks, 
with veils of the same material covering their heads, 
and topped with a chaplet of some green feathery 
creeping plant, which grows in profusion in the 
high woods. Then came more elderly females, 
similarly clad in blue cotton, all dancing frantically 
to the sound of most barbarous music, which fol- 
lowed them. Three or four men carried in their 
hands large empty gourds, covered over with a 
loose network of small porcelain shirt buttons, 
which they kept continually shaking, thus making 

130 



A VOODOO CANNIBALISTIC FEAST 

a loud rustling sound, serving as an accompaniment 
to a wild sort of song or refrain, yelled out in the 
most minor of minor keys by the whole of the 
assistants. The rear was brought up by an in- 
discriminate gathering of negroes, all dancing away 
furiously, and all decked with sprays of the same 
green creeper. Questioning one of these followers, 
I learnt that the procession was on its way to the 
Grand Etang, the supposed home of a ' Mamadjo ' 
or siren, whom they were going to propitiate by 
sundry sacrifices of goats and fowls, in order to 
obtain from her a few showers of rain which were 
sadly needed for the young corn just planted. 

" Most of these people were old Africans, who, 
although nominally Christians, and perhaps com- 
municants, still clung to the old superstitions of 
the land of their birth, and notwithstanding the 
lessons taught them for the last fifty years by 
priests and parsons of all denominations, evidently 
reposed more trust in the power of their old Congo 
divinities. . . . 

" Arrived at the Grand Etang, the old women 
of the procession would commence an endless 
prayer or incantation, addressed to the Mamadjo, 
accompanied no doubt by the sacrifice of a black 
goat and some white fowls, and the siren once 
considered satisfied, the ceremony would conclude 
by an African dance to the inspiriting sound of 
the tom-tom, lasting till daylight, when all would 
peaceably return to their avocations, and would, 
most likely, be seen next Sunday hurrying to their 
church dressed out in their best toggery." 

I fancy that very little enterprise and dissimula- 
tion would have enabled the observer to satisfy 
himself that this was Voodooism pure and simple ; 
but, all unsuspectingly, he seems to have accepted 
in perfect faith the explanation that was offered to 

131 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

him, though it is notorious that the native will 
resort to any artifice or actual lie rather than expose 
any of the arcana of his superstitions. 

Bad as Obeah is in all parts of the British West 
Indies, it pales into insignificance compared with 
the Voodoo worship that lingers everywhere and 
dominates the black republic of Hayti an inde- 
pendent island of chaos, cruelty, and confusion. 
So much for the notion of raising " our black 
brother " by thrusting upon him the responsibility 
of government for which neither nature nor tradi- 
tion has fitted him ! 

The law of Hayti, the written law, would impose 
heavy penalties upon those who take part in the 
Voodoo sacrifices ; but in Hayti, as elsewhere, there 
is a law above the law, and that is the people's will. 
No one dare neglect the call of the sacred drum, let 
alone put the written law in operation, and it is on 
record that Cora Geffard, the daughter of a former 
President of the Island, was shot dead as she knelt 
before the altar of a Roman Catholic church in 
Port-au-Prince, her only offence being that she was 
the child of her father, who had striven to suppress 
certain of the grosser Voodoo barbarities. 

Voodooism, as I have already shown, divides 
itself into two kinds the white and the red. The 
first makes little pretence at concealment, and it is 
possible for the white traveller to witness the 
sacrifice of white cocks and white goats to that 
serpent god of evil who is thus conciliated, the only 
danger being that once the wild untamed brutality 
of the black native is thoroughly aroused, he may 
extend the circle of blood-red sacrifice, however 
liberally you may have bribed the high priestess to 
secure your protection. But what is the ritual, you 
will ask ? 

" By the light of kerosene oil flames I saw about 

132 



A VOODOO CANNIBALISTIC FEAST 

forty men and women gathered round a rude stone 
altar, on which, twined around a cocomacacque 
stick was the sacred green snake." I am quoting 
the words of a recent visitor to Hayti, sojourning 
at Jacmel, the ceremony of which he writes taking 
place some three miles outside that town amid a 
small wood. "The Mamoli, a tall, evil-looking 
negress, was dressed in a scarlet robe, with a red 
turban on her head. She was dancing a sensuous 
dance before the altar and droning an ancient West 
African chant, which the on-lookers repeated. 
Rapidly she worked herself up to a frantic pitch of 
excitement, pausing now and then to take a drink 
from one of the fum bottles which passed freely 
from hand to hand. At last she picked up a glit- 
tering machette from the altar, and with her other 
hand seized a black cock held by a bystander. She 
whirled the bird round her head violently until the 
feathers were flying in all directions and then 
severed the head from the body with one swift 
stroke. The tense and horrible excitement had 
kept the worshippers silent, but they burst into a 
savage yell when the priestess pressed the bleeding 
neck of the slaughtered fowl to her lips. After- 
wards she dipped her finger in the blood and made 
the sign of the cross on her forehead and the fore- 
heads of several of her disciples." 

This is Voodooism in its less terrible aspect. 
The supreme feature of the ritual is practised only 
in some dark and lonesome wood or cave, and every 
art of cunning and deceit is exercised that none 
shall respond to the call of the sacred drum save 
those whom it legitimately summons to its terrify- 
ing rites. The preliminary sacrifice is a black goat ; 
and then, when the worshippers are raised to a 
state of uncontrollable madness and intense sensuous 
excitement by blood and drink the priestess' 

133 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

suggestive dances heightened by intoxicating music, 
there comes the crowning sacrifice of " the goat 
without horns " a drugged child, whose blood and 
flesh form part of the cannibalistic feast. 

To those who labour among these people with no 
hope or reward but the hope that is eternal and 
the reward that is the wages of well-doing, among 
a people to whom such rites are the natural exposi- 
tion of their barbaric unlifted natures, I may truly 
bow the knee in self-abasement. They are to me 
like the wayfarer on a boundless sea, still plying the 
oars in sure and certain hope of a glorious to- 
morrow. Not to my bedimmed eyes is the vision 
of the distant shore, nor can I yet feel, in the 
radiant words of Father Russell, that cheering 
" land breeze on my brow." 



134 



XXI 
WHEN NORTH JOINS SOUTH 

WHO shall say how, or when, or exactly why the 
distinction of race colour begins to manifest itself? 
Yet it comes to all as inevitably as the day 
succeeds the night. You may ridicule it, and 
trifle with your prejudices by talk of the universal 
brotherhood of man, by arguing that '* God is the 
Father of all ; " but against all your airy principles 
and rooted convictions the one eternal factor hurls 
itself: there is a difference, a difference you cannot 
change, firm and fixed in the everlasting verities of 
humanity. 

He of whom this narrative relates, let me for 
convenience' sake speak of him as Herbert, left 
England with few of the prejudices of race, and 
perhaps still fewer of those of colour, a fact that is 
sufficiently explained in that he had some experi- 
ence of the one and none whatever of the other. 
But long before he had crossed the ocean, he 
began, as we all do, unconsciously at first, to 
perceive and realise "a difference." There were 
all grades on board the ship, graduating from the 
pure white, through all the varieties of colour, of 
"just a touch of the tar brush" to the slightly 
brown, from the rather coppery to the lowest grade 
of all, the stage of inky blackness. Through all 
these gradations of colour he first began to appre- 

135 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

ciate the magnitude of a problem that threatens 
the peace and happiness of a large portion of the 
new world. 

Arrived in Jamaica, he made his first settlement 
in the home of his father's earliest and best friend. 
Herbert rewarded this hospitality by falling desper- 
ately in love and laying siege to the heart of the 
younger of the two daughters, and the only one 
who was not already involved in an affair of the 
heart. But despite all threats from the daughter 
and entreaties of the prospective son-in-law, the 
father would not give his consent. 

" No, no, no," he would say. " Herbert may 
want to leave the island by the next steamer, he 
would naturally take his wife with him, and I 
should be left stranded. No, I am going to stick 
to the only daughter I now have left." 

Fair and specious were the promises that were 
made to meet that difficulty, but the ardent lovers 
made little progress, despite the tears on the one 
side and the dark threatenings of a runaway 
marriage on the other. The most obstinate parent 
cannot, however, carry his objection beyond a 
given point; and that stage was almost reached 
when he made the concession and agreed to give 
the young people his consent and his blessing, as 
soon as Herbert had proved the fixity of his inten- 
tions by having a home and an estate of his own. 

Not more zealously did Jacob toil for Rachel 
than Herbert did for Marie. Hard work, however, 
would have been a long road to travel had it not 
been relieved by well-deserved remittances from a 
fond and indulgent father at home. The one and 
only condition of their marriage being completed, 
Marie, the fairest flower of the parish, became the 
happy bride of the son of her father's closest friend. 

Life at River Bend, their new home, in a house 

136 



WHEN NORTH JOINS SOUTH 

constructed on foundations laid by the earliest 
Spanish settlers, was like a quenchless honeymoon. 
Then a new happiness grew imminent. Marie 
did not always come down to breakfast and one 
morning the doctor was hastily commanded. That 
day Herbert found himself obtrusive ; he might 
return for news about nightfall, or later. For the 
time being he was the unbidden one in his own 
home. 

Like most men so placed, out of reach of his 
own kin, he did not wander far; and at short 
intervals he had all the news of the sick chamber, 
until at length there came the news that brought 
relief the baby .was born, and mother and child 
were both doing well. He still busied himself 
among his people on the plantation waiting for 
nightfall. Never did day seem so eternal. At 
length the sun began to steal from the horizon; 
and, unable to restrain all the tenderness and 
sympathy that were rising up like a well-spring in 
his heart, he started for the house. 

In the main avenue he met the doctor returning 
in his buggy. The man of medicine and science 
was a picture of serious preoccupation. But the 
kindly face lighted up for a moment as their eyes 
met. 

" A boy ! " he cried, not drawing rein. 

Then Herbert quickened his steps, eager to 
shower kisses on his wife, and to take the little 
sprig of manhood into his arms. Scaling the stairs, 
he was at the bedroom door in a moment. And 
then, approaching the bedside on the tips of his 
toes, that he might not wake either sleeper either 
sleeper, he repeated to himself, for there were two 
sweetly pretty, gentle, wakeful sleepers now for 
the first time he realised the sense of a parent's 
responsibility and pride. 

137 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

All he could see in the faint light of the room on 
the soft white pillow was the rich mass of Marie's 
auburn hair, the crowning glory of her beauty. 
She was lying with her face turned from the wide 
open window, the coverlet pulled up close about 
her shoulders, but nestling at her bosom he could 
just catch a glimpse of the wee pinky head that had 
caused all this commotion, joy and anxiety. 

Gently brushing back the waves of shining hair, 
he bent over the pillow, and tenderly pressed his 
lips against her soft warm cheek. 

" Is that you, Herbert ? " Marie asked faintly. 

" Yes, dearest. I am so, so glad you are going 
on all right. I could not stay away another in- 
stant," smoothing the clothes as he spoke. 

" Well, he has come ! " she said half playfully. 

" Who has come ? " 

There was a slight pause. 

" Oh what a goose I am ! Of course I know the 
baby has come. I seem to have lived a century 
since I had that news. Our baby, our very own, 
dearest " 

Marie tried to choke a faint sob amidst the folds 
of the pillow. 

" Why, of course, the doctor told me. But he 
did not tell me much besides. I met him on the 
road. He must have been in a fearful grump. I 
cannot imagine why, unless it was because we have 
kept the dear soul so long from his home and his 
patients in town." 

There was another half-suppressed sob. 

" But there, there, dear. Why are you crying 
when you ought to be so very very happy. Per- 
haps that's why ! I remember you cried when we 
were married." 

The tears had broken away, and were streaming 
down on to the pillow. 

138 



WHEN NORTH JOINS SOUTH 

" 1 won't chatter another word. But let me for 
one brief instant take him in my arms and 
and - " 

" No ! no ! " came the pleading voice of the 
mother. 

" But may not a proud father - ? " with a little 
laugh. 

" Not to-day then, dear." 



" Then not now." 

" Think how proud his dear old granddad will 
be ! They say grandparents always take more 
delight - " 

A sob. 

" But that can't always be true. Now if he had 
been a girl I do believe I wanted a girl, just a 
wee miniature edition of her mother, no, his mother 
I ought to say 1 had the names all ready, his 
mother's name and your mother's name, good soul, 
though you never saw her " (and then very ten- 
derly), " I am very very glad he is a boy. I never 
thought I could love a child so much. Now let's 
put eyes on him and I shall be gone." 

" No, dearest, no, I say - " 

But as these words were spoken he had already 
smoothed down the bedclothes and taken the little 
mite by both shoulders with all the delicacy of 
touch of a fairy goddess gambolling with a soap 
bubble. He drew the sleeping infant from the 
tender, firm, and then slowly relaxing clasp of its 
tearful mother. 

" What a good quiet baby to be sure ! but we'll 
have plenty of noise from him soon enough, I'll be 
bound. And oh ! what a heavy chap too." 

" Yas, Massa Herbert, hell be big man," said the 
native nurse, watching the baby with all the eager 
solicitude of a mother. 

139 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

" It's unlucky to weigh a new baby, or why 
don't you get a light, nurse ? It is miserably stupid 
in a room as dark as this. And what on earth are 
you blubbering about ? There never was such a 
house of weeping women, I do declare." 

The nurse busied herself to light the lamp. 

" I never knew a new baby was a matter to cry 
over not, at all events, when his mother is happy 
and well. Why, there were high jinks in the 
house when / favoured the world with my 
society ! " 

A sob. 

" But, dear me ! dear me ! " and then turning to 
the bed : " Dearest, my angel wife, why are you 
sobbing ? " And directing his words to the native 
servants in the room, " Was there ever such a 
pack of sorrowing creatures ! from that cross- 
grained old medico, who looked so dour, down to 
every servant in the house, all as solemn as though 
you were chief mourners at your own funerals. 
Great goodness ! " fondling the child in his arms, 
"some of you had better brighten up, or you'll 
put the mistress in a blue fever of despair. Now, 
woman ! will you never get that lamp lighted ? " 

" Oh, Herbert ! Herbert ! You are torturing me. 
Give me back my baby," came the pleading voice 
of the mother." 

" Certainly, dearest. But " 

" No, no, Herbert, give him back to me/* 

The father at that moment was bending on one 
knee that the pale light might fall from the lamp 
on the table to the child's face, whilst the mother, 
distracted with anguish, and with a face streaming 
with tears, had pushed down the clothes and was 
bending forward with outstretched arms, and 
nearly out of bed in her anxiety to regain the 
child, her heart's one desire. 

140 



WHEN NORTH JOINS SOUTH 

" My God ! " cried the man, rising dazedly to 
his feet. Then, in a far away voice, as though 
trying to unweave the tangled web of an indistinct 
memory, he exclaimed : " Black." 

At that word, the woman fell back on the pillow 
as one stung to her heart's core. 

" Oh, Mother ! dear Mother ! pray foi me" she 
cried amid her tears. 

The face of the man that one moment before 
was suffused with laughter and good-nature, was 
now ashen and ugly with consternation, anger, 
battling with grief. 

Rushing forward, the nurse took the child from 
his arms ; there she stood swaying it from side to 
side, while the mother buried her face in the 
pillow and wept as though her very heart would 
break. 

" Then this" looking from the bed to the child 
in the nurse's arms, and in a voice of undisguised 
contempt, "this is not my child, but another's; 
and you, whom I treasured above all else the 
world could give, have been untrue to me." 

" It is not true, it is not true, my husband ! " 
cried the agonised woman, springing out of bed 
and lifting up her arms that she might fall upon 
his neck and kiss away with her own lips a lie so 
gross and foul. 

" But can I doubt my senses ? See for yourself ? 
Can that, that be my child ? " 

" Oh, Herbert ! Herbert, as I live, on my soul, 
never in thought or word or deed " 

" But look child!" 

" Oh, God! I do not know, I do not understand," 
she said, as though despair had taken possession of 
her very soul, adding distractedly to herself, 

" And when I thought I had reached the summit 
of a happy woman's happiness, of our heart's desire!" 

141 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

As she stood her eyes fell upon the child in the 
nurse's arms. Instantly the tones of love gave way 
to those of fiendish hate as she drew herself up in 
anger, " Oh, I hate it ! I loathe it ! " she said, 
stamping her foot. " I hate you I hate myself. 
Take it away ! Take it away ! " 

Oh, unhappy woman ! Pride was reeling beneath 
the weight of weakness and emotion, 

The nurse retreated in terror from the frenzied 
woman lest she should strangle the child in her 
fury. 

" No, no ! it is still my child," she said hoarsely ; 
" give him to me, give him to me." 

She seized the crying infant from the nurse, who 
stood powerless and stupefied, and clambering back 
into bed, cherished the child in her bosom with 
tenderness and kisses as only a mother can. 

"Dear Mother of Jesus, help me! help me! 
pray for me ! I have no words" she called in the 
agony of her breaking heart, crying herself and her 
child into sleep. 

When the East joins the West, over barriers 
fixed by God that none shall pass without the 
dreadful price exacted, there is cruel suffering and 
searching sorrow, somehow, somewhere, some day. 
Yes ; as though it were an offence never to die, never 
to be obliterated, there is the inevitable legacy to 
the world of the unnatural and grotesque ! The 
synagogue and the mosque are not cheated nor 
cajoled into submission, and in the clash of warring 
elements the baser metal is stronger and trium- 
phant. 

When North and South commingle, Nature is 
no wit less malevolent. She sleeps not, nor for- 
gets ; and that sombre pigment, like the loathsome 
black hand of an immitigable destiny, conceals 

142 



WHEN NORTH JOINS SOUTH 

itself through one generation only to gloom forth 
intensified in another : unrelenting unoblivious. 

That night in alternate rage and remorse, loath- 
some repugnance and tenderest love, the distracted 
man sought to tear the mystery into fragments, 
only to piece it together again, and vainly try to 
understand all of which it was a part. 

"Her father alone can say," he told himself a 
thousand times. 

Daylight was barely breaking through the blue 
haze of the mountain tops of that fair and beautiful 
island, and all the brilliant constellations of stars 
were fading into nothingness, when he started upon 
that voyage of discovery, a voyage involving fate 
and life itself. There was no need to explain his 
mission ; evil news travels upon pinions. 

"It means, my son," said the broken-hearted 
man, " my sin has found me out. Over the tide 
of nearly twenty years, in which I hoped it was 
utterly lost and forgotten and buried for ever, it 
comes up now to my humiliation, and the humilia- 
tion of my child. It means that your wife is my 
daughter, and never more so than in this bitter 
hour of trial ; but it means also, though it racks 
me to say it, she is not the daughter of her whom 
in affectionate memory she cherishes as mother. 
It means that she is younger by nearly two years 
than you or she imagine. She did not know, and 
I hoped that she might prove that rare exception 
and never know. But this accursed black blood 
will not die ; if it skips one generation it obtrudes 
itself with horrible energy in the next. As a child 
Marie was fair and beautiful, no one could suspect 
she was not truly her sister's sister. On that 
seeming forgiveness of nature I built, I know it 
now, a foolish dream, for over the waste of years 

143 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

comes this recurring sin and long-drawn-out de- 
ception. Yet, God willing, I will make amends, 
such poor amends to her and to you as lie within 
my power. I will take my daughter back, and her 
home shall be before the whole world, her child's 
home. That shall be my atonement." 

" No, no, no ! that can never be. I will never 
give her up, and she is mine for ever." 

" But you forget it is always there and it can 
never be the same." 

" Oh, the hideous cruel wrong of it all ! Then 
what am I to do?" 

"As she wills, my child." 

In an out-of-the-way corner of the island there 
is to be seen a convent which, with its circular 
towers and tiny minarets, fittingly caps a gracious 
hill. " God's acre " lies on one side of the slope, 
so placed that it shall be to the material eyes of the 
recluse the last clear vision of departing day, and 
extend the mental horizon to the hope and glory 
of a bright and happier to-morrow. 

No glittering monument marks any resting-place, 
but at the head of each a triangular stone obtrudes 
some twelve or fifteen inches above the grass* At 
the head of one fresh mound and on one such stone 
there appear in crudest graving the name and dates 
of one fair child, the Church's latest bride, to whom 
death came like a radiant hope who shall call it 
vain ? of righting a great wrong, and blotting out 
for ever a sin that was not hers. 



144 




Z 

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O J= 

Z ^ 

DO 00 

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Sfl 



XXII 
HOME PROBLEMS 

LIFE in Jamaica seems to produce an ever-increas- 
ing burden of complexity. Some two hundred odd 
years ago the population consisted roughly of an 
almost equal proportion of whites and blacks. 
During the slave period the number of blacks was 
increased out of all proportion to the increase of 
the whites, and this disproportion was further 
magnified after the emancipation, when so many of 
the white settlers returned to England. 

The Spanish occupation of the island is evident 
in many ways to this day, not merely in place- 
names that are often purely Spanish, as a reference 
to any map will show, but in the houses dotted 
about the island built on a scale of solid security 
to weather all storms and withstand any siege. 
T 1 * ~ romantic glory of these colonial palaces was 
barely maintained during the richest period of the 
English occupation, partly owing to the different 
temperament of the later ascendant race and 
partly to the fact that English residents seem at 
all times to have regarded Jamaica only as a tem- 
porary abode, a place in which to get rich quickly 
and return home. The English planter had his 
wife and family about him for brief periods only 
and the climate was blamed for much that resulted 
as a consequence. 

145 K 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Now the climate of Jamaica includes almost 
every gradation that may be desired from the 
intensely tropical fever-producing swamps lying low 
near the sea and kept in a state of moisture by 
plenteous rivers, spheres where the alligator basks 
in the sun to the delight and danger of the sports- 
man, to the cool retreats on the Blue Mountains 
where most of the vegetation of an English kitchen 
garden may be found to flourish. These are the 
two extremes the more reasonable description of 
the climate of Jamaica is that of eternal summer, 
where an overcoat at any time is a pain rather than 
a pleasure. 

The English woman is never attired otherwise 
than in a summer frock, and there are hours of the 
day all the year round in which any clothing is 
even to the European a comfortless concession to 
social convention, while in the height of summer 
the heat of an evening seems to be hardly less than 
the shade temperature of the day. Failing there- 
fore a very determined will the English woman 
lapses into luxurious idleness with black servants 
to fetch and carry and wait at every turn. 

The Englishman has his work on the planta- 
tion, his riding, his polo, and his tennis and an 
occasional alligator shooting expedition, to keep 
him in health. But his wife bereft of that " snap " 
or " nip " in the air that prompts her to activity 
at home, spends many hours of the day within the 
shade of her own home, on the verandah perhaps, 
reading, and in this way loses the freshness of com- 
plexion she brought to the country and to her 
horror and dismay develops that sallow parched 
skin so disturbing to all her pride and beauty. 

This grief, however, might not prompt her to 
desert her husband. The real problem arises over 
the baby ! He it is who is the determining factor 

UQ 



HOME PROBLEMS 

in the colonial house no less than in the house 
at home. 

I have met those whose knowledge and ex- 
perience of Jamaica go back to the pre-emanci- 
pation period and whose attachment to the island 
is strong and sincere, and have heard them declare 
that no other country in the world provides the 
same opportunities to the young man of small for- 
tune of finding the road to a competency and of: 
having the most keen joy of life all the way along 
that much sought path, but 1 have found few or 
none to declare that Jamaica was an ideal place 
for the English baby ! 

The climate is everything that could be desired 
for a while, no draughts, and chills almost impos- 
sible. Then the mother begins to realise that the 
warmth is too forceful and draws forth her tender 
blossom night and day without that cessation that 
comes in the nursery at home in our long cool 
winters. In other words, the English baby is not 
altogether unlike the English rose-tree planted in 
this over-kindly climate ; it shoots forth rapidly, is 
an eternal mass of bloom until exhaustion sets in 
and it withers away and dies. The baby, on the 
other hand, is sent to the mountains to enjoy 
cool nights and rest, and sooner or later returns 
with the mother to England to the climate against 
which we all profess a national grievance. 

The English planter is therefore left to his own 
devices among conditions of life that prompt if 
they do not indeed set a premium upon that 
deviation from the moral code as accepted at home. 
First of all there is the remoteness from all society, 
and I judge that only those who have had actual 
experience of such isolation can fully appreciate 
the depth of its influence. 

Escaping from the lowlands to a hill station any 

H7 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

visitor may find for a week or two that life is 
worth living, and he may imagine that he will 
never tire of the fruits and the flowers, the hum- 
ming birds, and the fireflies, and all the beauty of 
nature that surrounds him. " But none of these 
things, even with the joy of health thrown in," 
says Mr. Plowden in his entertaining volume, 
" Grain or Chaff," suffice in the absence of occupa- 
tion, and in time the ennui that brooded over the 
camp at Newcastle found its way into his heart 
and " I, too, would turn my thoughts to the 
necessity of whittling a stick in order to make the 
dragging hours pass less heavily." 

Then this wonderful climate, this never-ending 
summer by which the winter sports of the home- 
land never come round, becomes a positive pain, 
and the sojourner hastens back to home and 
society. 

To the settler there is no such escape. With a 
wife absent even for years, and on her part a 
climatically produced indifference to her husband 
in one direction if not tacit or indeed a definite 
acceptance of the fact that her place will be taken 
by some one, possibly a some one of her own choice, 
in the manner of a queen nominating her successor, 
or proclaiming a regency ! is it wonderful that life 
takes many strange turns ? 

The average Englishwoman hears a good deal, 
more than enough, from those whose experience 
does not qualify them to express any opinion, of 
the absolute necessity of exercise in a warm 
climate I do not often observe much activity 
among her sisters at home when the temperature 
is even ten or twenty degrees cooler. And then 
for the " greatly multiplied sorrow " she ever bears 
as the woeful penalty of Eve's fault, periods of 
lassitude are inevitable, but in the tropics this 

148 







NEWCASTLE IX THE HILLS 

established as a military camp on account of the heavy mortality among the white 
troops stationed at Port Royal. The monotony of an everlasting English summer 
proved nearly as serious a tax upon the health of the troops as the swampy lowlands. 




Roth Photos fy II'. S. Campbell 

THE MILITAHY CEMETERY AT NEWCASTLE 



HOME PROBLEMS 

lassitude is in some cases intensified and pro- 
longed by the great heat. No wonder, therefore, 
that the Englishwoman finds her own health, 
no less than the health and education of her 
children, a good and sufficient reason for the trip to 
the temperate zone. And if her husband finds 
solace in her absence she may not always wish to 
know, though she would not hint any complaint it 
she did. 

Now what are the factors which produce this re- 
markable result? I have heard it repeatedly averred 
that while the climate reduces the energy of the 
woman, it has the reverse effect upon the man I 
am of course speaking of the white settler in each 
case. 1 question if either statement is wholly based 
on real knowledge. I think it is, however, an ac- 
cepted fact that women are more often reduced by 
the heat in this climate, but whether in indulgence 
first or idleness thereafter lies the explanation, does 
not now arise. But I am satisfied that the licence 
claimed by the white man simply because he lives 
in a warm climate is not to be condoned, and I am 
equally convinced that if he considered his health 
merely, as he certainly might under conditions of 
greater occupation and leisurely distraction, he 
would, in the absence of his wife, live a life of 
absolute continence. Nor can he lay his account 
against the food, consisting as it does so largely of 
fruit, fish certainly, but meat by no means an in- 
variable article of diet, no native wine, and rum a 
despised beverage suited only, he usually thinks, 
to the negro and the Jacktar, though he is in 
reality either following a fashion of society or 
despising what is cheap. 

The explanation, therefore, that remains is that 
with wife and children absent for years, the aloof- 
ness from all society, and the deadly dull monotony 

149 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

of life in one everlasting summer on a lonesome 
estate or plantation, the planter begins, like all 
forms of nature, irresistibly to accommodate him- 
self to the conditions in which he is cast. 

That is the best story I can give of this aspect 
of the question. What of the other ? 



150 



XXIII 
THE NATIVES' MARRIAGE 

To begin with, let me present in sum the con- 
ditions of native life. The woman is the worker in 
Jamaica, and I was interested to note that she will 
walk twenty or thirty miles all through the night 
sometimes in order to escape the heat of day- -to 
sell perhaps two or three shillings' worth of vege- 
tables, fruit, &c., which (though it does not concern 
this story) she, or more probably her husband, may 
have stolen from a neighbour's garden. She walks 
bare-footed, with her clothing, of which there is 
not much besides the dress you see, tucked up 
usually in a rather awkward bunch about the waist 
and falling hardly ever lower than the knee, so that 
a clear, free stride may not be impeded, and carries 
with a sweeping elastic carriage her heavy load, 
accurately balanced on the bandana-girdled head, 
the hat, as often as not, grotesquely surmounting 
the topmost layer of fruit. 

I have read expressions of sympathetic wonder 
that such women will neither take train nor share 
the cost of a donkey. The sympathy is wholly 
misplaced. The money earned by the journey is 
undoubtedly a great boon, but think of the privi- 
lege of a gossip all the way to market, the mild 
excitements of sale and barter, and the indescri- 
bable din and clatter of many tongues in the 

151 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

market-place itself, which is music to the ear of an 
inmate of a lonely one-roomed cabin all the rest of 
the week ! 

But the greatest pleasure of all is the personal 
adornment in the way of laces, frills and flounces 
thus acquired. No beauty at the Court of any 
Louis was ever more susceptible to the joy of 
adornment than these dusky ladies of the West. 
It is the ruling passion, not of a sex merely, but of 
an entire race. Rather, therefore, than sacrifice 
this duty, so obvious a one to all the tiny world 
that lies along her path, and the gratification of 
her own taste for finery, she will decline or avoid a 
sale near her own door, though it does not seem to 
occur to her that she might go to market just the 
same with the money in her hand, instead of the 
fruit and vegetables on her head. I take it, how- 
ever, that the load of fruit and vegetables are the 
outward and visible sign of her mission to town, 
while the money would convey nothing to the 
mind of any onlooker unconscious of its exist- 
ence in her possession. That seems an absurdly 
elementary proposition, but I find many such 
are determining factors in the daily life of the 
people. 

As illustrating the great strength of the native 
woman and the immense load she can carry on her 
head, I cannot do better than mention one actual 
experience of a visitor, not many years ago, shortly 
before the railway from Kingston to Port Antonio 
was completed, whose travelling trunk, packed with 
clothes and weighing between 80 and 100 lb., was 
carried on a woman's head over an undulating road 
across a mountain range, some seventy miles in all, 
for 3,9. 6d. 

The men are the lords of creation and the 
women the beasts of burden. Indeed, only too 

152 




THE NATIVE'S WATTLED HUT ON A LONELY 



Photo by //'. S. Campbell 
L ANT AT ION 



' The ciibiu in which the negro lives is nothing more substantial than a shanty 
. . All food, save when the rain is fallinir, is eaten out of doors . . . a mere shelter 
for nights and a harbourage for knick-knacks and Sunday clothes." (See p. 1~>7.) 




Photo by Mr. Algernon P.. Aspir.all (//'. /. Committee) 

NEGRO AMAZONS 

Showing native houses in one of the lesser towns. 



THE NATIVES' MARRIAGE 

large a proportion of the men are no better than 
the women's encumbrances, living on what they 
can steal, and smoking what they have acquired by 
their wives' earnings. 

" Marriage hab teeth, dat berry wise saying," is 
a negro proverb. The marriage tie therefore is 
not often sought, and the woman in Jamaica is 
against its yoke, as her legal freedom is the one 
and only threat she can exercise upon a lazy good- 
for-nothing stay-at-home-and-smoke husband. 

When the marriage tie is invoked it is usually 
to satisfy some scruple on tbe part of the Church 
they imperfectly comprehend, while a touch of 
humour is not vanting to the ceremony in the 
spectacle of all the bridesmaids being drawn from 
the family of grown-up daughters of the contract- 
ing parties. These are the ways of life they have 
inherited from parents who knew no better, and to 
whom the unguided instinct of their own natures 
was the only law. 

" If you blame them," 1 am quoting from a 
woman, the author of " Ethiopia in Exile,/' ' for 
straying from what you have been taught as the 
path of virtue, a path you have not mentally 
evolved as the only admissible one, put yourself in 
their place ; think of their past, of the dark herit- 
age of their African descent ; of their present 
poverty-stricken surroundings, their limited equip- 
ment, mental and moral, for the battle of life, 
which you at times, with all the props of a boasted 
civilisation, all the support of a highly-organised 
religious system, find so difficult; think of their 
lives in those wattled huts no books, no pictures, 
with no power to connect cause with effect, no 
mind trained to think of the future, to weigh the 
relative proportion of things, with no memories of 
the past to steady them, no traditions to inspire 

153 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

them, their only possessions the two human cravings 
for hunger and love." 

Elsewhere the same writer recounts an experi- 
ence of the road. " One day a girl of twenty, 
carrying a huge basket on her head, stepping along 
with that elastic step which bears them over so 
many miles in. .Jamaica, attracted my attention, 
her smile was quite engaging, and she seemed 
bright and intelligent. I asked her if she were 
married. No, she lived with her father, she said, 
and went on to inform me that she was a Baptist 
not a Bedwardite she sang in the choir, and 
told me she prayed * de good Lord to tak' me 
home, Missus/ before she had anything to say to 
some of the youths where she lived, who had 
* such wicked minds/ and she vividly described 
the lives of those who had been * brout to nutting.' " 
The incident shows the influence that ceaselessly 
menaces the virgin life, the keen sensuous rivalry 
among all the neighbouring youths as to whom 
shall fall the prize, and is remarkable only for the 
mature age to which the girl had attained without 
spot or blemish. 

But if in early life the marriage tie is so rarely 
sought in any binding form, these people have their 
own ideals of the maidenly sacrifice. When the 
Church is conciliated, or vanity gratified, by a 
public ceremony, the bride will attire herself in a 
white dress with a train, a petticoat containing 
enough cassava starch to make the cotton or 
linen as stiff as a shirt front ; an orange blossom 
wreath will encircle her woolly head, from which 
a tulle veil will hang down in long folds, to 
give the blush to modest mien, and on each dark 
brown cheek there may be a conspicuous dab of 
violet powder, while white slippers cover her flat, 
maidenly feet. Then is she the admiration of all 

154 



THE NATIVES' MAHR1AGE 

beholders and the bridegroom the envied of all 
kind. 

Proper decorum requires her to keep her cabin. 
Never for one whole week must she be seen out of 
the door of her one-roomed hut without incurring 
the censure of all as a brazen puss. Naturally 
negro etiquette requires that her lord and master 
shall remain with his bride in this enforced seclu- 
sion from the meaning, prying gossip of the world, 
and no self-respecting bridegroom would venture 
to scandalise the community by breaking through 
so wholesome and well established a law, while 
their love and their kisses are sustained by such 
solid nourishments friends choose to leave at their 
door. 

Years earlier, therefore, than is the rule in our 
own land the native girl in Jamica is a wife, a 
mother perhaps, at fifteen, a grandmother at thirty, 
with great grandchildren about her at fifty, or long 
before a single grey thread has shown itself in the 
tiny folds of her curly woolly hair. 

A woman will work for a man she has chosen to 
tolerate as her husband, dig for him, carry his yams 
into Kingston perhaps, and bring back her little 
purchases for the home. Or she may (and this is 
typical of the entire sex) work all day, six days a 
week, on a sugar estate, carrying the canes, sweep- 
ing up, or carting away the thrash, or she may be 
engaged, according to the season, hoeing the canes 
or digging out the water channels all heavy labour 
in the full scorch of the sun, and earning say lOd. 
a day, while her husband satisfies himself with 
much milder efforts on, perhaps, three days a week, 
and spends the remainder of the week in idleness, 
recovering lost energy. 

The little patch of land surrounding their cabin 
provides them with fruits, sweet potatoes, and 

155 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

many other vegetables, always including yams and 
usually bananas, while the native grown Blue 
Island coffee of Jamaica is one of the delicacies 
of the world, though I have either suffered some 
bad specimens in the making or I have not been 
educated to an appreciation of its rank green fresh- 
ness on the palate. A little salt fish, which can 
be bought quite cheaply, is the one item of ex- 
penditure in the menu of the native's wattled hut, 
while enough home-grown tobacco can be obtained 
to satisfy the man's appetite for a smoke during 
those days of his ease and refreshment from labour. 



156 



XXIV 
EDUCATION IN SEX 

THE cabin in which these people live is nothing 
more substantial than a shanty, a rather large hut of 
one room, some ten feet long by eight feet broad, 
though many 1 saw were much smaller, and a few 
were larger, made of wood, in which portions of 
packing-cases, bearing the names and trade marks 
of English houses, are often to be seen utilised to 
repair the main structure, where some one has 
incautiously pushed an elbow through the thin 
match-boarding. All food, save when the rain is 
falling, is eaten out of doors. The cabin is there- 
fore a shelter for nights and a harbourage for 
knick-knacks and Sunday clothes. Within these 
narrow walls children are born and reared with an 
absence of delicacy and an ignorance of all fault 
that is modesty itself. 

Hence, from her earliest years, a native girl 
begins her education in sex long before she knows 
her alphabet, her name perhaps, or her creed. She 
passes from the state of mere childhood into that 
of adolescence, years earlier than is usual in a 
temperate zone, at eight, nine, or ten. Though 
education is not compulsory, and can never be 
made so amid such a scattered population, there 
are hundreds of schools dotted about the Island, 
the idea being that the uplifting of the people is 
first and foremost a matter of education. 

157 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

The schools in the country districts are small 
and poorly equipped, either in staff or appliance, 
or in sanitary accommodation, You may find it 
presided over by a young coloured lady, to whom 
in her devotion to the well-being of her people 
and to whom in the success of her work, having 
regard to her circumstances, her isolation, her lack 
of that constant spur that comes from contact with 
her fellow teachers, as in the case of her sisters in 
the larger towns, and the intellectual stimulus that 
comes from contact with her superior officers of 
education, I must, in passing, pay the warmest 
meed of praise. 

The school-house itself usually consists of no- 
thing more pretentious than a single room built of 
a series of upright posts to which lias been roughly 
nailed a number of short planks. Where the 
planks have been planed smooth on the inside they 
sometimes serve as a rough kind of blackboard. 
The absence of a few planks after four or five feet 
from the ground has been reached is explained by 
the necessities of ventilation and light! A country 
school with a wooden floor has a right to make 
some claims to equipment, while one with a cor- 
rugated iron roof, weatherproof as it is, promptly 
relieves the teacher during a rain-storm from any 
attempt at oral lessons. 

It is, however, nothing unusual to find the little 
school of a Jamaican village consists of nothing 
more imposing structurally than a hut of wattled 
hurdlings, c^rered on the sides with mud and clay, 
roofed with palm leaves .or grass and extending 
beyond the main props by one, two or three feet, 
to protect the apertures from the beating in of the 
tropical rain or the full glare of a tropical sun, 
while the floor is as nature left it, or as the pupils' 
beating feet have made it. The defect, therefore, 

158 




"THE SCHOOLS IX THE COUNTRY DISTRICTS 

are small and poorly equipped . . . The school-house itself usually consists of 

nothing more pretentious than a single room built of a series of upright posts to 

which has been roughly nailed a number of stout planks." (See p. 158.) 




YOU LUB ME?" 



Roth Photos by If. S. CaittfMl 



EDUCATION IN SEX 

on the supersensitive score of sanitation, would 
not form any serious grievance in such a climate 
and in a country so sparsely populated, except 
that, in the cover of the bush, the children I am 
speaking from the knowledge of an inspector 
of education of a quarter of a century's experience 
coming indiscriminately together, indulge in 
practices that can only be hinted at as the gratifi- 
cation of unrestrained, unguided instincts. They 
are but doing what, in many cases, they have seen 
done all their lives. 

As soon as they are able to earn any pay these 
children boys and girls pass off to the hard work 
of field or house. In the planter's house you will 
sometimes find thfe boy with rare condescension, 
because such work usually belongs to women of 
the lowest grade of colour spending days of every 
week upon a most laborious task cleaning and 
polishing floors, developing in the process muscles 
that would be the envy of any boy of his own age 
at home. The girl may be at work among the 
sugar canes or in the factory, or in the river wash- 
ing clothes (for of all the accusations that can be 
made against these people, that of outward bodily 
uncleanliness is the very last) To avoid bending 
low she may stand out well in the stream near 
some large and convenient boulder whereon the 
clothes dry almost as quickly as she has washed 
and displayed them to the sun. It is a heavy task, 
and her covering consisted (as I unconsciously sur- 
prised her, to her undisguised but rather coyish 
merriment, on the banks of the Rio Grande) of 
little, and that little beyond her needs a girdling 
handkerchief about her head perhaps, and some 
slight thing in the way of a brightly coloured frock 
of which only the folds and frills and lace about 
the wide open neck and bosom were visible. All 

159 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

the rest was gathered up out of harm's way, reveal- 
ing a figure supple, graceful, and black. 

It is the ambition of every girl to become a 
mother, an ambition grounded in a well-known 
superstition that, if she dies childless, it will be her 
terrible fate to " ride a white horse in hell." We 
cannot ourselves afford to be either shocked or 
amused at this revelation of character, for in 
England itself, for countless generations and cer- 
tainly as late as the eighteenth century it was the 
common belief, and not a merely jocular remark, 
that our old maids would be doomed to " lead apes 
in hell." Shakespeare speaks of the superstition in 
" Much Ado about Nothing," and again in " The 
Taming of the Shrew" (II. 1). 

Katharina (to Baptista) : 

What ! will you not suffer me ? Nay, now I see 
She is your treasure, she must have a husband ; 
I must dance barefoot on her wedding-day, 
And, for your love to her, lead apes in hell. 

H. Carey (1734), in a burlesque play, makes use 
of the superstition ; 

Pity that you who've served so long and well 
Should die a virgin and lead apes in hell. 

While in a play called "The London Prodigal" 
the idea is again advanced : 

Women, dying maids, lead apes in hell. 

The superstition, however, frivolously used in 
later times, was serious enough at one period, and 
the two variants would seem to have a common 
ancestry. But the cruel fate must fall to few 
indeed of nature's own children in Jamaica. I 
recall the testimony of a missionary who had spent 
close upon forty years in his peculiar field of the 
island, and who. in that vast experience, had found 

160 




i. Photo by 7. H: CUary ? /'/'<*<> by Alfr<d H'tst, F.R.G.S. 

TYPES OF NEUKO BEAUTY 



EDUCATION IN SEX 

two sole instances of women who had successfully 
resisted all entreaty and preserved a maidenly 
virtue right into middle life. 

Then a clergyman of the Church of England 
told me that it was to him at the beginning of his 
pastorate a subject of pain to hear every girl can- 
didate for conh'rmation asked if she was or had 
been a mother (for infantile mortality is high 
among a people who, despite all their maternal 
affection, have no scruple in letting the weaklings 
fall away). 

" Was this necessary ? " I asked. 

" Yes, it was necessary, as I soon learned, that we 
should know that she was not actually leading a 
life of sin at that tery time, and questions had to 
be asked about the whereabouts of the child or 
' picnie ' a Jamaican contraction for pickaninny 
the father, &c., her means of livelihood, and so 
on. Otherwise the entire office of confirmation 
would have become degraded. " 

" And was it solemnly undertaken ? " 1 ques- 
tioned. 

" Within their powers and understanding un- 
questionably yes. Indeed, the one and only gleam 
of hope lay in the singular fact that young women, 
who were regular in their attendance at church, 
would delay their confirmation over years in order 
that, having gone through a period of satisfying 
indulgence culminating in motherhood, they should 
after confirmation lead a new life of virtue, as 
understood by us. They, therefore, realised their 
sex, satisfied the ambition of motherhood, escaped 
the penalty of riding the white horse in hell, and 
became good Christians in confirmation 1 Only 
those who have had experience of the tremendous 
character of the effort will appreciate the merit, 
small though it is, we saw in that delay. By it I 

161 L 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

was first made to realise that confirmation meant 
something more to them than mere display, and 
that it had its reflex in their actual ' daily life.' ' 

To understand how soon and pressing these 
problems become in Jamaica, I should explain that 
a girl may pass out of the stage of mere childhood 
(the suffering is slight, whether owing to diet, 
climate, open air life, or relief from the conditions 
of a civilised society, I have no information) as 
early as eight or nine, though it is more often a 
year or so later, and become a mother at ten or 
eleven. Nature, however, usually delays that 
charge until the thirteenth or fourteenth year or 
even later, a contrast in no way remarkable with the 
more remarkable cases at home, having regard to 
the invariable rule of an earlier maturity among all 
white as well as black people living in a tropical 
climate. 



162 




I'lioto l>y y. If. Cltarv, AV;/ 4 -JV<> 



LAIXDUY WUM1-N 



XXV 

GODDESSES IN CHOCOLATE 

THE goddess in chocolate is usually a girl who 
has happily escaped an early motherhood. At 
sixteen years of age she is a perfect example of the 
physical woman, nd nowhere in the whole of the 
wide world can she be excelled in beauty of form 
and grace of carriage. Hard labour in field and 
mill, and in the interminable task of keeping her 
skin no less than her clothes in a state of immacu- 
late cleanliness, has given to each muscle that 
sufficiency of exercise which shall re veal its presence 
in all suppleness, smoothness, and grace of outline, 
while the soft shiny skin, as the natural reflex of 
her food, is a matchless picture of healthful, 
functional activity. Her teeth are pearly white, 
with a cleanness and a perfection of regular mould- 
ing that is the happy legacy of an unstinted 
appetite for gnawing at the close sinewy fibre 
of the sugar cane. Her head is poised with that 
nice accuracy which has been gained by balancing 
loads, heavy but within her strength. Her neck 
is neither long nor short, nor fat, nor lean, for 
shoulders, neck, and chest are all revelations of 
the woman leading a life close to primitive nature, 
clothed in fulness of flesh that shall show no ugly 
Adam's apple, or protruding clavicle, while the 
breasts are firm and full without a trace of that 

163 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

elongation that is at once her own pride and our 
despair. 

To such a girl the thought that she might have 
the privilege of becoming the mother of a white 
baby white to her with a whiteness that would 
make the snow sombre by contrast is a dream of 
happiness and pride and glory among all her people 
of which it is impossible to give any adequate idea. 
It would lift her into an earthly paradise to which 
she dare not aspire nor linger on even in her prayers 
and therein are we made to realise the deep and 
unutterable longing of her heart to cleanse her skin 
from all shade. This is impossible ! Then in her 
offspring advance in that direction even by only 
one stage. 

By such good fortune she would raise herself 
above all her kith and kin, a halo of sanctity would 
surround her for ever which, in some cases, no black 
or brown man dare venture to violate by even the 
breath of passion, while the child, light probably (of 
course never white), but usually brown or coppery, 
would be the object of an admiration, a love and a 
reverence befitting a child divine. 

You may not think the little sallow face much 
more comely than the mother's satin skin of golden 
brown, but no compliment that an English man or 
woman can pay to such a mother and such a child 
can compare to that of assuming the mother to be 
merely nurse and the child the child of parents 
white without a shadow of taint ! 

Is it surprising then that while true to the 
natural primitive attributes of her sex she will 
never seek the attention of any man, white or 
black, in thought or word, or even glance, she 
should, if raised to the elect of the earth, the very 
pinnacle of her joy, in the Englishman's house, 
maintain towards him and everything that is his a 

164 



GODDESSES IN CHOCOLATE 

steadfast loyalty, fidelity and devotion, that no 
pledge or plighting of troth could strengthen or 
sanctify ? It is to her a bond without chains, and 
she is there " to have and to hold from this time 
forth " as long as he pleases, an 1 yet withal prepared 
(in a spirit of resignation and with a poignancy of 
inexpressible regret in the deep wellspring of her 
great heart, which no man may truly appreciate or 
rightly fathom, and a complete absence of all 
jealousy it is so difficult to comprehend) to relin- 
quish her place on the return of " the white lady," 
or, in the last event, on the final departure from 
the island of her lord and master. 

A little story of .two sisters, which occurs to me 
as I write, is worth recounting as conveying some 
sense of the curious make-believe atmosphere in 
which a girl may live in Jamaica. Their earnings 
would be the standard rate of 4s. per week each, 
out of which they would supposedly keep them- 
selves in food and clothing. The amount spent on 
food by any household servant is very slight. If 
she is the cook and includes in her duty a visit to 
the butcher, he like a wise tradesman will con- 
ciliate her by following the almost invariable rule 
of providing a separate slice for herself. There 
is no intentional dishonesty in this an all but 
universal practice, and only in the case of an over- 
zealous wife is there any attempt to break through 
the rule, and then her good intentions are circum- 
vented by the simple expedient of making up the 
weight in bone or providing inferior meat. 

No one who values his digestion, let alone his 
peace of mind, or the dangerous attentions of 
Obeah, attempts to interfere with a custom that 
was in vogue and of a hoary antiquity before he 
was born. With such little presents, fruit from 
the orchards lying all around and the food that 

165 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

inevitably leaves the table uneaten, the average 
servants finds her 4?. nearly all available for other 
purposes. The other purposes always mean 
clothes, and the working girl in London would 
often be green with envy at the pretty and even 
costly things her dark sister in Jamaica can acquire 
out of her own earnings. 

The two sisters of equal size, conceived the 
brilliant notion of clubbing their savings together 
and showing their taste along the best French 
lines. They bought a frock of the best Lyons 
silk, white of course, and probably a model that 
had drifted in some unexplained way over the 
Atlantic or from New York, It was a costume 
which might fittingly have graced any fashionable 
function of the early summer at Aix les Bains, 
before the usually dowdy autumn visitors had 
arrived. 

One sister at all events could go to church a 
lady! Then was she a picture of stately grace. 
A hat, French too, a fond bloom of the Rue de la 
Paix, for which one or two guineas had been paid 
in Kingston, or about half or a quarter its original 
price in the home of its creation a petticoat on 
which the needle had been worked long and in- 
dustriously over fold, frill and insertion, all lavishly 
starched, so lavishly starched that the skirt in the 
amplitude of its folds was more widely displayed 
than the frock-maker ever dreamed of ; stockings of 
delicate tint, silk too, and French as the seam down 
the centre of the tread of the foot would testify ; 
boots of glace kid, high heels, and fully a couple of 
dozen buttons, all of which she coyly revealed by 
carrying the train of her skirt and her petticoat over 
imaginary puddles with all the studied correctness 
of the fashion plate. But the picture is wholly 
incomplete without a tribute to the most shapely 

166 




1. JACK TAK'S DIVERSION 



Koth Photos by Alfred ll\-st, F.K.G.S. 
2. A NK(iKO TALK OF LOVE 



GODDESSES IN CHOCOLATE 

bust, for no dark beauty of these Western Islands 
would be seen out of doors dressed on Sundays 
and high festivals, except in a corset into which 
she has no small difficulty in compressing herself. 

Then when she fared to church, the undis- 
tinguished, undressed sister would walk behind 
She would be wearing a common cotton frock with 
no more decoration than a little frilling about the 
neck and the arms, a bandana handkerchief about 
her head, and no shoes on her feet. She, the 
undistinguished, would bear on two hands before 
her, her sister's Book of Common Prayer, on the 
top of which would be reverently laid her sister's 
fan poor girl, stye had need of the fan already 
in that discomforting though wholly necessary 
corset ! 

Arrived at church, my lady would take her 
place among the proudest and best ; the sister 
would approach from behind, deposit with servantly 
obeisance Prayer Book and fan in a convenient 
place for the worshipper, and retire to the rear. 
Next Sunday morning this fine ceremony would 
be repeated, only this time the identity of " my 
lady " would be changed. Cinderella was now in 
the front row, talking with grave decorum to the 
coloured clergyman, while the sister was seated at 
the back in a cotton dress, her own, displaying, 
but not perhaps so ostentatiously, those feet that 
a week before were graced by embroidered silk 
hose and polished kid ! 

They were to English eyes as like as two peas, 
and how far their mutual privileges extended I 
deemed it gracious in a guest not to inquire nor 
even hazard a guess, though the possible confusion 
of identity of two wives, one impersonating the 
other with that other's knowledge and connivance, 
suggested to my mind the ever fresh and interest- 

167 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

ing problem raised in another form, that of two 
husbands and one wife, in a modern and much 
talked of novel, though my remembrance is that 
the theme, in its pristine power of reality and fuller 
sense, is as old as the Italian novelists of three or 
four centuries ago. 



'-f V ~ 



168 



XXVI 
FORBIDDEN DANCES 

IN the old days no white man ever made a native 
woman his wife in any legally approved sense. I 
have half a suspicion that there was indeed some 
enactment operating against if not actually pro- 
hibiting such a union. But this did not prevent, 
nor was it of course intended that it should, the 
white man from including in his personal retinue 
as many shapely goddesses in bronze as his taste or 
inclination prompted, or his means permitted. 

Truth to say, however, there was at no time any 
attempt to reproduce the luxurious cultured extra- 
vagance of the Orient ; no gilded halls, no sweet 
scented odours to enrich the air, no dancing girls 
in shimmering silks or the fleecy transparencies of 
muslin, no languorous music nothing indeed but 
what was prosaically English and dull. This is 
not a little curious when we remember that by 
instinct dancing is one of the vehicles of expression 
most natural to the West African negro. 

Old laws, however, running up to the early 
period of the English occupation of the West 
Indian Islands, show that, established here as slave, 
the young and lissom negress revived to the sound of 
the tom-tom and the triangle all the most indelicate 
figures of the Calenda a dance imported from 
Guinea, in great vogue throughout the period of 

169 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

the Spanish settlement, and highly relished by these 
gay woman-loving adventurers. Under English 
rule many of these dances were prohibited, rather, 
however, from the sense of anxiety aroused by the 
congregation of so many excited slaves than from 
any scruple on the score of moral damage. Out- 
breaks and rebellions were, in fact, often traced to 
these unbridled orgies. 

The Congo negroes, on the other hand, brought 
with them a dance quite solemn iri comparison. 
In this men and women stood round in a ring, and 
without moving from their places, lifted one foot 
from the ground, brought it down again with a 
stamp in cadence, bowing to each other and clapping 
their hands as they sang. But this sombre exercise 
could not survive the voluptuous excitements of 
the Calenda. 

The Belair is another among the many dances 
that came over in the slaver's ship. The music in 
this case is provided by two drums, hollowed out of 
the trunks of trees and covered with a goat's skin 
or sheep's skin scraped like parchment and tightly 
stretched across. One drum may have a depth of 
three or four feet, and measure fifteen inches or 
more across. The other drum, called a baboula, 
may be only half that diameter, and not infrequently 
is constructed of a barrel with one end left open. 
The performer on the large drum, holding the 
instrument between his legs, beats the taut skin 
with the tips of the fingers of both hands, while 
the performer on the baboula provides his accom- 
paniment anyhow. The dancers are assembled in 
line or circle and soon have ample opportunity to 
jump and pirouette, while one of the company 
provides a never-ending improvised song, in which 
all local events are celebrated and the foibles of 
the white planter, his manager or overseer, are not 

170 



FORBIDDEN DANCES 

forgotten, any personal eccentricity, oddity, or 
peculiarity being seized upon and turned into a sort 
of amusing rhyme. 

The Belair lasts throughout the night, the men 
having provided the light and the, women the food 
and drink. Among the poorest a dance of this 
kind is a great festival; the men appear in an 
assortment of ill-fitting garments, and the women 
in wonderful creations happy combinations of 
chocolate and blue, orange and green, violet and 
red, the delicate harmonies of the English or 
American visitor in her Paris frock being wholly 
unappreciated, though no one in the wide world 
would bestow mpre adoring adulation upon the 
beautiful touch of the texture out of which it has 
been evolved, and the patient skill by which it 
has been fashioned and made. 

Granted that in later times dancing did not 
usually form a feature of the entertainment, we yet 
know that no dark-visaged Emir of Ispahan passed 
a life of greater ease and indulgence than did a 
few of our young bloods who made Jamaica their 
home in the heyday of its prosperity, and the 
island has the further but unenviable distinction 
of including in its entertaining history a feminine 
Blue Beard, a voluptuary of truly Oriental caste. 

Rose Hall, the residence of this woman, still 
one of the show places of the island, lies some ten 
miles from Montego Bay, on the main road lead- 
ing to Kingston. It was built at immense cost, 
having regard to its locality and the cheapness of 
labour at that time, some 30,000, by a planter, 
the Hon. John Palmer, who named the mansion 
after his first wife, Rosa Witter, a saintly woman, 
to whom a monument in marble by the elder Bacon 
was erected in the church. 

" Mr. Palmer, after the death of his wife," I am 

171 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

quoting from Stark's entertaining record, " became 
infatuated with a handsome Irish immigrant girl, 
who had successively become the wife of three 
husbands whom she had secretly got rid of. It is 
stated she poisoned her first husband, aided by her 
paramour, a negro, whom she flogged to death, to 
close his lips ; again married, poisoned her second 
husband, whose death she hastened by stabbing 
him with a knife ; married her second paramour, a 
mechanic, a rude and unlettered man, with whom 
she had constant quarrels, and who disappeared 
mysteriously. Mr. Palmer became her fourth 
husband ; and she is said to have worn, with her 
wedding ring, a ring with the inscription, * If I 
survive, I will have five.' 

" The history of this woman is a narration of 
licentious cruelty. It is related that she tortured 
her slave girls who served her by making them 
wear shoes, the wooden soles of which were charged 
with blunted pegs on which they were obliged to 
stand ; that she punished them with a perforated 
platter that drew blood ; that, becoming jealous of 
a beautiful coloured girl, the mistress of John 
Rosa Palmer, her stepson, she had the slave girl 
sentenced to death under the law of those times 
that gave plantation courts the power of inflicting 
death and bodily mutilation. This girl, like 
Abraham's Hagar, displeased her mistress, but was 
not thrust into a desert to perish. From the 
plantation dungeon she was led out to be strangled 
in the plantation yard, and to have her head struck 
off in the presence of the plantation gangs, and 
delivered into the hands of Mrs. Palmer for pre- 
servation as a malignant trophy. She put it in 
spirits and exhibited it to her friends who might 
visit her, saying, ' Look at the pretty creature.' 

" Mr. Palmer found by the humiliations he suf- 

172 



FORBIDDEN DANCES 

ferred by her secret licentiousness and by her 
ceaseless cruelties to her slaves, that she could kill 
by breaking hearts as well as by the administration 
of poison. He settled Palmyra, the adjoining 
estate, upon her, and left her there to finish her 
dissolute life, which soon came to an end by her 
being killed by her slaves, who were alternately 
the companions of her orgies and the victims of 
her morning remorse. On the floor of Palmyra 
Hall the stains of her blood existed for years. 
Mr. Palmer on his death-bed disclosed his com- 
plicity in his wife's murder that, during his ab- 
sence from the estate, he caused his slaves to rid 
him of the woman whose life of secret profligacy 
and open cruelty* were an unendurable inflic- 
tion." 

Yet she must have been a woman of remarkable 
power to have, practically unaided, commanded 
such implicit obedience from blacks, secured from 
a court of justice composed of white men, a legal 
covering for the dastardly act of destroying the 
pretty slave girl, and to have driven her husband 
from home, while other stories of her infamy were 
on every tongue. 

It is part of the irony of fate that for many 
years tradition loaded the memory of the pure and 
godly Rosa with all the cruel excesses of her 
successor. Strangely enough, the marble monu- 
ment, once so fair and beautiful, developed red 
markings as though blood was exuding from the 
nostrils, and round the neck a seam like a thin 
cord of strangulation. 

The result of all this widespread admixture of 
two distinct races is to be seen in every part of 
the island in a vast " coloured " population from 
which the black pigment will eternally obtrude 
itself from generation to generation. A curious 

173 



CRUISE OP THE PORT KINGSTON 

and remarkable fact in heredity came many times 
under my notice. 

I found girls quite light in colour fair skin, 
fresh complexion, blue, grey, or brown eyes, and 
rich tresses of hair, flaxen, golden, or quite dark in 
plaits coming down to the shoulder, when it was 
not otherwise done up in a more elaborate coiffure; 
and yet, with all the traits of English blood, there 
would be a nose flat and spreading and lips charac- 
teristic only of the negress. 

In other instances, I found girls of the most 
amazingly English feature, even of distinction, 
beauty and refinement, associated with skins of 
inky blackness 1 



174 




A JAMAICAN CliKOLE 

" In other instances, I found girls of the most amazingly English features, even of dis- 
tinction, beauty and refinement, associated with skins of inky blackness." (See p. 174.) 
(Drawing by Wm. Aikman) 



XXVII 
THE CREOLE WIFE 

BUT whether truly black or of lighter tinge, the 
young Jamaican housekeeper has many, if not 
indeed most, of the gentler instincts of her sex, 
always making allowance for the stage of education 
and civilisation which she has thus far reached. 
She is proud of her place in the white man's favour, 
and justly claims and obtains, according to her 
rights, the homage of her less lucky sisters. Her 
loyalty to him is beyond the breath of suspicion. 

It may be true that at first she allows father, 
mother, sister or brother to come to the Great 
House, where she is merely a household servant at 
4s. a week, and plead for employment or trifling 
pecuniary aid from time to time, but once she is 
established as the mother of the white man's child, 
woe betide all relatives who try to impose any 
further upon generosity that is hers and hers alone 1 
And there is a blend of vanity, pride, wifely devo- 
tion, all beautiful and intensely pathetic, in her 
silent effort to retain and justify her election. 

She does not suppose that she can raise herself to 
his station, any more than prayers and penance can 
raise the sinner to the level of the gods, but she 
seeks to make herself acceptable in his sight, as 
well as her own, by scrupulous cleanliness of 
clothing, by interminable washings, as though 

175 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

liberal latherings of soap and water twice a day 
would cleanse the sombre pigment from the skin 
what would she not sacrifice to be really white ! 
and by approximating her appetite to the fruits and 
meats of the white man's table, to dispose of the last 
remnant of that myth of the unlearned, that a black 
skin is any more odorous than a white skin, on 
the basis of the same foods, the same class of 
labour and the same cleanliness. 

Life in the West Indian household produces, 
therefore, some curious confusions according to our 
ideals, in the relative status of its members. The 
dark lady who brings you your coffee in the morn- 
ing may be mistress. Her daughter may be cook 
(or the posts may be reversed, the mother cook and 
the daughter housemaid), and still your host's child, 
and the manager of the estate, his son. But 
whether mistress, daughter, or son, not one of the 
trio presumes on the relationship. Mistress, house- 
keeper, or " butleress " is respectful even to dis- 
tance, and yet not more so than the daughter, 
while the son would no sooner presume to be 
seated in his father's presence than he would 
expect to be asked to join his father at dinner. 
And that superiority of father towards son is not 
less than the son's superiority towards his darker 
brother of less proud parentage. 

Whether "mistress," "housekeeper," or "but- 
leress," or whatever other designation she may 
bear, she does not, it would seem, ever form a 
member of the household at night. She is, there- 
fore, in no sense the companion of her lord, sharing 
with him the long watches of the cooler winter 
nights. It would not, indeed, appear that she ever 
shares with him the same apartment, either regu- 
larly or even occasionally, and the fact is worthy of 
record by students of heredity as establishing first 

176 







4 




A JAMAICAN LAUNDHY MAIL) 



Photo by ll\ S. Canifbtll 



THE CREOLE WIFE 

of all the unquestioned fact that the intimacy is 
one of convenience, passion, or mere animalism, 
with no sort of temptation to prompt or excuse it 
(save those secondary ones already alluded to), and 
second, as confirming in some measure various 
theories advanced to me as the explanation of the 
virility of the coloured race being almost invari- 
ably conceived either when the sun is already risen, 
or if later in the day, after dinner perhaps, but 
never in idle languor or heavy sleepy weariness. 

Sometimes these unions of the North and South 
are bluntly acknowledged, and an English clergy- 
man with whom I have chatted on life and things 
in Jamaica, told me many curious phases within 
his own experience. Arrived at one place, his 
horse was watered and fed, while he himself was 
never asked indoors to share even a little whisky 
and w r ater, or even a little rum and milk. The ex- 
planation reached him later. He was regarded as 
a very strict puritan, whose susceptibilities would 
be greatly shocked by the sight of children of 
differing shades of colour (though their parentage 
was the same a white father and a black mother). 

In another instance he was treated with what 
was intended to be the utmost hospitality his hosts 
could afford. He had received news of his prefer- 
ment and hastened at the first opportunity to go 
down by train from Kingston and take a look at 
his new church and meet one or two of his principal 
officers. He had to sleep the night at the house 
of one of his churchwardens, a shopkeeper in the 
little village. All that the simple home contained 
was put forth for his entertainment. 

Judge his surprise when, having just slipped into 
bed, the door was rather roughly opened and his 
warden entered, partly pushing and partly pulling 
into the room a frightened and highly nervous 

177 M 



CRUISE OF THE POUT KINGSTON 

coloured girll He could not realise in the dim 
light of the lamp what was happening. 

" Now, Sa, dat be all right," said the man, leaving 
as precipitately as he had entered, locking the door 
by the latch on the outside so that the timid damsel 
should not escape. 

The girl was the daughter of another church 
officer, about eighteen years of age, and as she 
stood there in the middle of the floor was wearing 
no more than a cotton petticoat which she reduced 
to absurdity by violently grabbing it at its lower 
edge and biting it with her teeth in her modest 
alarm. 

The native loyalty is shown too in attachment 
to a particular estate. The English sugar-planter 
is glad enough to escape the height of the summer 
season in Jamaica, with its unrelieved hot nights, 
and spend from April or May till October or 
November in the Old Country. On his return he 
finds trouble has arisen between certain of his 
labourers and the estate manager. Appeal lies to 
the white man, and the almost invariable argument 
that is used as a final clincher is " Squire 1 be 
Lynwood man always." And it is worth noting 
that the argument is so powerful to the usual 
Englishman of good family, who characteristically 
wishes to retain old servants, that the man gets 
another chance, despite perhaps his notorious lazi- 
ness, or abominable carelessness in the use of the 
cane-crushing machinery. 

So is it also with the female servants. There is 
the same slavish devotion, a tradition probably of 
pre-emancipation days. Managers change, but 
their children remain. Indeed, as one planter re- 
marked to me, he could never forget the different 
managers he had tried within the past dozen or 
more years, as their faces in various shades of 

178 



THE CREOLE WIFE 

colouring were all to be found on the estate, and 
he found it a curious psychological study to observe 
(after the determination of sex) which attributes or 
characteristics of each parent showed uppermost in 
the commingling. 

A mother may now claim by law a weekly allow- 
ance from the father of each of her children, and I 
heard of the black mother being awarded, after an 
inquiry that would startle the sobriety of an 
English police court in its plain questionings of 
mother and father, the large sum of 9d. per week, 
payable every Saturday, from an equally dark but 
inconstant housemate. But an allowance is, I 
believe, rarely if ever sought against the white 
father, for the re&son apparently that the white 
child is its own exceeding great reward. 

This point of view of the native woman is 
admirably realised by Mrs. "Alice Spinner," a 
shrewd and therefore sympathetic observer, in her 
illuminative little book, " A Study in Colour," now 
long out of print. The scene of her observations 
was a Jamaican hotel whose identity is only thinly 
veiled, and her principal " study " there was her 
child and its devoted black nurse. The latter 
brought her perplexities to her mistress, and as a 
sequel to an incident in the hotel kitchen in which 
the nurse attacked the chef, demolishing him with 
the contents of a tin of condensed milk, we have 
an account of the admiration aroused in the 
lethargic quadroon by the " speerit " thus shown 
by the Sambo girl. 

" Claude, de cook, now say he no see why I not 
marry him, at least for as long as we both stop 
here. I hab told him ' No/ 'cos, as de missus 
know well, I wish to marry in church, an' honour- 
able, like a white girl, but he tell me I awful big 
fool, when he gib me such a good chance.' 

179 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

The Missus exclaimed in horror as the full 
meaning of Claude's proposal dawned on her. 

" Yes, missus, I know all dat, but still dere 
something in what he say too. He tell me he 
married nine women in de different places he been 
in, in de berry same way, an' dat dey all hab such 
nice fair children, an' one ob dem twins. Tink ob 
dat, missus ! The quadroon, you know, missus, 
an' if I marry him I might hab almost white 
chile." 

These, therefore, are the conditions, as I under- 
stand them, that produce the remarkable results to 
which I have alluded ; and both in this chapter 
and chapters xxii.-xxvi., as well as others con- 
tained in this volume, I have endeavoured to 
show the magnitude of the problem this admixture 
of the races has created and is creating at a steadily 
advancing ratio, a problem which will assuredly 
produce in the judgment of many competent ob- 
servers a crop of trouble at some future time, 
despite the undisguised favour with which the pre- 
sent Governor of the Island (Sir Sydney Olivier) 
regards all " race fusion " (as to which I have some- 
thing to say on a later page). 

I trust I have not unfairly stated the case on 
either side. I admit at once, though it is no part 
of my purpose to point any moral, that I regard 
with positive terror and aversion unions of much 
less marked distinction of race, tradition, and funda- 
mental religion, whatever modern phase it may 
fashionably assume, including many that are of 
almost everyday occurrence in England, and there- 
fore tolerated with perfect equanimity, and an 
absence of refined feeling that is to me appalling. 
In Jamaica the native has an apt saying : " God 
made de white man and God made de black man, 

180 




ONE OF NATURE'S OWN ENIGMAS IN THE WEST INDIES (See p. 174) 
(From a drawing by William Aikman) 



THE CREOLE WIFE 

but de Devil made de brown man." The half- 
caste race that has resulted from this commingling 
is in a state of latent but perpetual feud with the 
white in a state of bitter envy, with the black in a 
spirit of loathing and contempt. In the clash of 
passion the man of colour finds himself the enemy 
of both. 

Enough! Let us escape from all the stifling 
squalor of mixed marriage, haphazard, unsanctified 
intercourse, and degrading association with the half- 
caste ; let us breathe again the pure atmosphere of 
an English gentlewoman's home. 



181 



XXVIII 

THE STORY OF AN ENGLISH BRIDE 
IN HER OWN WORDS : MY BRIDAL 
MORNING" 

TREASURIES of uncounted gold would not induce 
me to tell my tale in such a way as openly to 
disclose my own identity, much less that of my 
husband, or to betray our little home on the sunny 
shores of Green Island, Jamaica. 

Not that I could in any way suffer annoyance or 
disturbance as a consequence. We are too far out 
of the beaten track for that ; but rather from the 
feeling that in such an event I must in some way 
cheapen by the rude flare of publicity what belongs 
to ourselves alone. Of course I know that in a 
thousand different ways the curious and the wide- 
awake may so analyse my words as to leave no 
doubt as to the identity of the culprit who has 
inspired these pages. That does not hurt me ; it 
rather piques my vanity, insomuch that I, who 
have had no experience in the use of the pen, have 
so unfailingly realised the picture now in my 
mind's eye. 

In the foreground of that picture stands a man, 
strong, confident, and sincere. That is my hus- 
band. Beside him is an English bride, as I still 
tenderly regard myself, though the days are gather- 

182 



"MY BRIDAL MORNING" 

ing up into a space of time since I plighted my 
word and troth with the words "I will"- none 
other, therefore, than myself, and admittedly un- 
like in mind, body, outlook and experience to the 
woman usually thought fitted to the supposedly 
rough usages of colonial life. But these two figures 
do not complete the picture. It must include the 
manservant and the maidservant and the stranger 
that is within our gates, for of all of them have I 
memories at once amusing, pathetic and significant, 
each in its own way worthy of recall, casting the 
sacred glow of reality upon our far-away home. 

These feelings of reserve notwithstanding, my 
heart is inditing .a good matter. New as our 
Island home is to me, I have learned to love it ; I 
cherish for it a sentiment inferior only to that 
which unites me to my husband, to mine own 
people at home, to England herself. True it is 
that residence abroad serves but to deepen and 
intensify that passion for the mother- land which 
may be but coldly felt by those " who only England 
know." None the less, in the interests of this new 
home of mine in sunny seas, I should like to tell 
as vividly as I may some of those tiny incidents 
that have endeared it to me. Are not love and 
home combined in a " woman's whole existence " ? 

Why should I not admit straightway that my 
husband was just as much my choice as I was his ? 
I don't feel prepared to go further than that. Per- 
haps, indeed, the nearest approach I ever made to 
what is deemed the exclusive masculine prerogative, 
was to acknowledge the most profound delight 
that residence in Jamaica would afford me! I 
had not been asked, but that did not matter to 
any one holding the view that it was a little beneath 
the dignity of a girl to sit like a rose on a bough 
waiting to be plucked, and really exercise no voice 

183 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

in her own destiny. But then, you will say, the 
die of our fate was already cast. Of course it was ; 
I knew it and I, whose horizon for six or nine 
months in the year was bounded by the trees of 
Hyde Park on one side and on the other by the 

spire of St. , but what does all that matter ? 

The story is as old as the hills, and the feeling 
familiar to every woman who has had the luck to 
marry where love to give and to have lies in 
rich and rare unexplored abundance. In the 
passage of years, many years, from nursery days in 
fact, I came to discover at last that I could know 
no home where he was not, and that where he was 
there must I be also ; whether it were amid the 
oil wells of the Caucasian mountains (as once 
seemed likely), or among the sugar-sticks of 
Jamaica, as Fortune has decided, 

Ted went out to Jamaica about a year and a 
half before I did, " to look round and take in 
things," as he said. A whole year spent in that 
way seemed to me a leisurely process, but then I 
was all impatience ; and small idea had I either of 
the extent of the island, the wide scope of a 
planter's knowledge, or above all, of the land-sharks 
that ply their calling in Kingston, ready to palm 
off on the unsuspecting, trustful, confiding Britisher, 
fresh from the old country, some miserably bad 
egg in the way of an estate or plantation which 
no one could conceivably make remunerative. 
My later and more practical knowledge of the 
situation tells me that Ted acted most wisely in 
thoroughly gauging the situation everywhere, and 
that finally in closing on the estate he did (and 
at the price he did), he had done as well as if not 
better than I could myself have done and that, 
as Ted admits, is praise indeed. 

Of course the eulogy is all nonsense. I should 

184 






"MY BRIDAL MORNING" 

be the biggest goose at business in the whole 
island, and could no more distinguish, unless by 
feminine intuition, a land-shark from a thoroughly 
honest man, than I could take wings and fly ; but 
it pleases my big boy to make pretence of pretence, 
and so we still play our little parts of make-be- 
lieve just as we did in the dear old days long ago, 
when I was a little girl in a white frock and a 
broad blue silk sash, aged five, and he was quite 
grown up, wearing trousers down to his boots, a 
tight-fitting jacket ridiculously short in the waist, 
and an expansive Eton collar, a man indeed to my 
admiring eyes of the mature age of ten. 

And this reminds me that I had a birthday last 
week, twenty-three ! what an old woman I am 
getting ! and instead of a scramble of an early 
dinner and a frolicsome evening at the play, we 
had a long drive in the morning, with pictures of 
land and sea, mountain, river, and waterfall, one 
long glorious panorama ot beauty, while the song 
of the fishermen in their canoe, rudely hewn out of 
the trunk of a giant tree, still rings in my ear as it 
reached us over the expanse of rippling waters : 

Breeze do blow, 
Breeze do blow, 
Breeze do blow to Cuba. 

I thought it prettier than the 'bus conductor's oft 
repeated " Penny a' th' wy t' th' Bank, penny a' 
tri wy t' th' Bank," or, " Where der yer want to 
gow, miss ? " And instead too, of being clad in 
wraps fitted for exposure to sleet and rain or fog 
and Arctic cold, I was in the shade of the canopy 
of the buggy, wearing " the most bewitching of all 
summer gowns " those are Ted's appreciative 
words (I do like a man who takes note of what 
you wear, but then I like Ted altogether) and 

185 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

pretty " frilleries," though I say it, to match, with 
no more thought of injury than a little dust as we 
sped along o'er hill and dale behind two fast 
running mules or my own thoroughbreds. 

But my thoughts must go back to London town, 
to shops, and purchases without end. I did buy 
some things, as the Vicar of Wakefield did choose 
his wife, that they might wear well, only they get 
no wear. It is easy to furnish a home in the 
tropics if you have lived one week abroad under 
real tropical conditions, but my experience in that 
direction was limited to such " tropical " weather 
as we got in London one week in July last ye ir. 

And if I did buy a few dozen more glass-cloths, 
and a few dozen more table-napkins, than could by 
any earthly chance be required for a generation, in 
a house where a guest from home is like an angel 
from the clouds, I can truthfully say that I did not 
" rush " Ted I do wish Ted did not lead me into 
the use of such expressions I did it with " mine 
own." Have I not, moreover, shared with him the 
indescribable merriment of seeing our cook and our 
housemaid decorate their heads with our napkins 
whilst none were to be found for the table ? 

Of course I took out lots of things I might have 
bought as cheaply, perhaps more cheaply, in 
Kingston ; but then I had other thoughts once 
landed at Jamaica and I really could not come 
down to glass-cloths or table napkins, much less 
ox-tongue and potted this, that, and the other, to 
say nothing of a piano warranted to stand any heat. 

Remember I had not seen Ted for a year and a 
half an unending eternity I thought it and more 
than unnecessary because 1 could have explored 
the island with him and helped too in that task of 
"looking round and taking things in." 

Our party at Constant Spring was a tiny one. 

186 



"MY BRIDAL MORNING" 

May I put myself first, for this once in my whole 
life, her wedding-day being the one and only 
occasion on which a woman can truthfully regard 
herself as the centre of all interest ? The bride- 
groom really is non-existent. My sister, who, like 
an angel of good cheer, had crossed the ocean to 
see me fairly started on my new career as wife and 
housekeeper ; and my brother-in-law, who was 
shrewdly and conscientiously to administer ail 
business matters, and hand me over in legal form, 
completed our numbers. 

We arrived on a Thursday ; and at what would 
seem to those at home an absurdly early hour we 
had breakfasted, and passed our personal luggage 
through the Custdms. We considerately left Ted 
to see about all my ship's cargo of possessions for 
our new home, and were already established at our 
hotel six miles outside the town before good people 
at home would dream of being aroused for " an 
early cup of tea." But that is the way in the 
tropics, and one acquires the habit by the instinct 
of convenience. Next day Ted gravely announced 
that he had the formidable document from the 
Colonial Secretary to license our marriage, but 
added : 

" By the way, I have not fixed up any clergyman 
to 'Jack us off? " 

I really must confess I don't like some of Ted's 
expressions. To be "jacked off" seemed to me to 
suggest the barbaric act of the executioner. But 
you must not consider such trifles in a man other- 
wise amiable. 

" Well, I think Ted had better see to that at 
once," said practical minded Sis. 

" And I'll tell him to snip it, for for an extra 
consideration," concluded Ted, jumping out of a 
chair. 

187 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

A nod to a formidable black creature in gold 
braid on the front balcony, a buggy was at the 
foot of the steps, and the next moment he was 
away. 

What kind of irreverent dompact Ted entered 
into with the clergyman I do not care to hear. 
All I know is that he exacted a promise that the 
service should not last more than fifteen minutes 
in all, and as little over ten as conveniently possible, 
and that it should begin at 8.45 the next morn- 
ing. 

No choir, no organ, no congregation, none other 
but the five of us, the clergyman in all included ; 
no wedding bells, no bridal dress, no anything at 
all many a girl would say. 

But sentiment was not wholly lacking, and that 
Saturday morning as I lay in my bed, encamped in 
pretty mosquito netting, looking across green field 
and orchard tinted with bloom and clustering fruit 
through a soft dreamy blue haze, to the bare hills 
beyond, rising one behind the other, up, up, till 
they mingled with the far-away mountain peaks, 
over which the rich red glow of a glorious dawn was 
breaking, I found black Susan, our bedroom maid, 
arranging on my dressing table dozens of white and 
red roses their voices were not silent. 

And as I beheld the sprays of orange blossom 
(real orange blossom indeed, for the orange tree on 
this island is everywhere) to hang about my mirror, 
I felt that I would not exchange my simple 
wedding for any consideration whatever. No 
bridesmaids, no fuss, no reception, no leavetaking 
over and over again repeated. 

A few minutes later my room was flooded with 
sunshine. I slipped on a dressing-gown, and with 
Sis to keep guard, trapesed to the end of the 
corridor and down a spiral staircase to the swim- 

188 



"MY BRIDAL MORNING" 

ming bath. It was not 6.30, but the air was 
already warm, and 1 began my unconventional 
wedding-day with a plunge and a swim in the bath 
of the " Constant Spring," a refreshment I did not 
know when I might enjoy again. 

By half-past seven we were at breakfast at a table 
on the eastern balcony, in the shade of course, but 
enjoying the warm fresh air like a morning at home 
in the height of summer. My wedding frock re- 
vealed nothing to the stranger soft white muslin 
and filmy lace, a long satin sash, and, oh yes, just a 
suspicion of a train ; for oh, vanity vanity, thy 
name is Woman^ I wanted to look my best and 
my tallest. 

The Half- Way Tree Church St. Andrew's is 
really its proper ecclesiastical name was soon 
reached and the formality, including to me the 
unexpected requirement of solemnly declaring I 
knew of no just cause or impediment, a promise 
tacitly understood and disposed of at home I 
believe by the publication of the banns, ended 
long before the fifteen minutes Ted had bargained 
for. 

Yet never before in my life was I so tortured. 
During that brief service I was six times bitten by 
mosquitoes ! But it ended at last, and, all other 
formalities over, we drove leisurely down into 
Kingston to the railway station, saw our luggage 
aboard, and took our seats (our own two selves 
now, for Sis was to follow a week or two later 
and the brother-in-law was to return to England, 
home and duty) in the reserved portion of a saloon 
in which I found yet more flowers : orchids in this 
land of orchids and unexplored blooms, fruit in 
this land of fruit, iced cocoanut water, everything 
my heart could desire even a big white cotton 
sheet to cover me all up in like a big baby, to save 

189 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

my frock and protect me from the dust while I 
slept or rather dozed through the mid- day heat 
truly a happy, happy woman if ever the world con- 
tained one. 

The railway in Jamaica is not an awe-inspiring 
experience in respect of excessive speed, but no 
traveller need make a grievance of that. The trains 
run only in the daytime, thus affording you the 
opportunity of seeing wood, stream and orchard 
that cannot be excelled in beauty the world over, 
veritable glimpses of God's own garden. 

At every stopping-place I curiously inspected the 
groups of waiting negroes, and getting down from 
the train there was ample time for this little 
exercise spoke to some of the women fruit-sellers 
without understanding a word they said in reply. 
They understood my gay spirits, and their smiles 
required no translation. 

It was mid-day, and the sun was now intensely 
hot. Every window was open, even the door to 
the rear platform of the carriage. By keeping quite 
still we could be very comfortable, but the dust lay 
everywhere, and, oh dear ! what a peck of it I must 
have swallowed. 1 blessed that cotton sheet 



190 



XXIX 

"MY HOME-COMING" 

ARRIVED at the end of our train journey (in 
caprice let me call it Montego Bay, just to con- 
fuse the knowing and the inquisitive) I found 
Ted had a coupte of buggies in waiting, one for 
ourselves, one for my own personal belongings. 
That for ourselves was drawn by a pair of mules, 
both of which won my heart at once glossy- 
coated, spidery-legged, fleet of foot, timid, dear 
things. 

The black driver was smiles from ear to ear as I 
patted the two animals, and a group of idle men 
and women and slim-legged children looked on 
approvingly. But I provided them with more 
amusement than I bargained for, though I laughed 
as heartily as they did when, as 1 rubbed the nose 
of one mule, the other gently and neatly nipped 
two roses from off my hat ! 

By this time the luggage was in and we were 
ready for a start. 

" Now, Ted, shall I drive you ? It would be 
fun." I love driving, and I really believe I am 
never quite so happy as with the reins in my 
hands ; I would drive to my own funeral if that 
were within the bounds of possibility. 

I detected a cloud on that open countenance. 

" Would it be too shocking or unconventional 

191 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

or ? " I asked. I could think of no other 

objection. 

" But what would you do with the boy ? " 

The " boy " was an infant of distinct maturity, 
still grinning and showing two rows of pearly 
teeth. 

" Oh, put him in the other buggy," I said, " the 
luggage will be just as safe with two of them to 
look after it." 

" I would rather you saved yourself the fatigue 
now, and if you wait a couple of hours or so you 
can drive your own pair, and better animals than 
these, good as they are." 

" My own and better ? " I said in surprise. 

That settled it. I got in at once, and the black 
boys having nimbly tucked in the folds of my skirt, 
and covered my knees with the lightest of driving 
aprons, I was as happy and as comfortable as a 
queen making a state entry to her capital. 

We were flying along the road past what were 
to my e}'es a series of the most hopelessly uncared- 
for shops and cabins, dogs racing and barking at 
our heels in sheer love of the sport, children, wee 
black pickaninnies with scarcely any covering, 
hastening from our path as our driver sang his song 
of warning different from but just as romantic in 
another way as the calls of the Venetian boatmen at 
every turning of the canals. 

" You never said a word that you had bought a 
pair of mules for me you extravagant boy," I said 
r emons trati n gly . 

" Did I say mules ? " he said, with a meaning 
laugh I could not then understand. " Well, I 
wanted them to be another surprise. I am sure 
you will like the the mules, certainly the best 
pair on the island with the boy thrown in. I am 
sure he will amuse you, no whip, no tugging at a 

192 



"MY HOME-COMING" 

hard mouth, he only sings and talks to them and 

away they speed like . But wait and judge for 

yourself." 

" Of course, I shall like them. They will be a 
never-ending pleasure, and Sis, too, will be de- 
lighted. It is very sweet of you, husband," I said, 
using that rather terrifying word for the first time 
with mixed feelings of fun and earnestness. And 
I exercised my own prerogative of kissing him on 
the spot, partly, it must be admitted, because I was 
touched at this last indication of tender solicitude 
for my happiness, and partly to hide the tears in 
which my eyes were beginning to swim. 

Tears of joy ?^ a girl will ask in surprise, as 
though I were unreasonable. But that will be a 
girl who has not experienced the feeling of concern 
at being four or five thousand miles away from her 
old home, and her own land, amid scenes strange 
and unreal, with her all, heart, mind, body, indeed 
her very soul, all, irrevocably dedicated to the man 
she loves, finding, to her inexpressible joy, the 
wee-est wee misgiving unrealised, and in its stead 
that all-pervading sense of security and peace to be 
hers for ever and ever and a day. To me sorrow 
may be easily too deep for tears, but I can weep in 
gladness, and never more readily than under the 
sacred spell of gratitude and love. 

Then we reached Lucea, in the parish of Han- 
over, the end of our first stage, and barely had we 
got out of the carriage when I heard the flying 
wheels of another vehicle coming down the road at 
racing speed, the driver singing away in a voice 
lusty enough to strike terror into any quadruped. 

" There he comes," said Ted, contemplating the 
approaching carriage with evident approval. 

" Who comes ? " I asked, simply. 

" Solomon and the mules," replied Ted. 

193 N 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

" Oh," I said, as full as he now of intense 
interest, the driver meanwhile singing as far as I 
could make out, something like this : 

Yip ho yaa kee 
Take a walk ee 
You Bramble sir 
Oo oo ooo. 

Yip ho yaa kee 
Take a walk ee 
You Nelly Madam 
Ee ee eee. 

By this time he had swept round in an imposing 
circle, pulling up at our feet. Looking at various 
black brothers : 

You tink dat mule no provoke me ? 

and without waiting for any answer, addressing 
the offending mule all make believe : 

You know you provoke me, you Bramble sir. 

When he had time to recognise our existence it 
was deference itself to Ted to Ted alone I was 
nowhere visible in his eyes he resumed : 

" Yas, squire," which I took to be negro English 
for " I've come," or " At your bidding, sir.'* 

" Will you try these," asked Ted, " or wait ? " 

" Yes," I replied, but resuming my old seat. I 
was confessedly tired now with all the heat and 
dust and ever changing scene that had passed 
before my eyes in a day that had truly contained 
a great deal more than any other day I could ever 
hope to live again. " I'll drive the last five miles 
or so, the air is getting cooler, keener and fresher. 
But how on earth am I going to sing to them like 
that ? " I asked incredulously. 

" Oh, they'll go fast enough without the singing," 
replied my husband reassuringly. And then he 

194 



"MY HOME-COMING" 

went on as we raced along: "But this man is 
a boon and a blessing as a groom, and he came 
of his own accord and with only his own recom- 
mendation. 'I' be your boy squire, 'solved be 
your boy.' I never saw animals, harness, stables 
better cared for. It will be an interesting historical 
study for you to trace Jackanape's ancestry. This 
extraordinary natural instinct in the management 
of horses, of never using any whip, of always sing- 
ing and talking with them, is a link I'll be bound 
with some dead and forgotten phase of civilisation 
in Africa Egypt probably. You'll fish it out 
out of somewhere." 

This was entirety characteristic of Ted, faced by 
a kind of abstract problem. It is gently brushed 
aside. 

Now if I have said little of the country through 
which we drove, it is not because I did not note 
and appreciate what I saw ; rather is it due to the 
utter exhaustion of mere words to convey any 
sense of the richness and glory of every picture. 
Then there are many things, travel books, guide- 
books, souvenirs, photographs and the like, which 
tell that tale. It was one long surprise, full of 
pleasure and gratification. 

But my last long surprise (it is with me still, 
fuller of pleasure and gratification than I can ever 
hope to express) was reserved for the last stretch 
homewards. We turned off a little distance from 
the main road, pulled up in front of a long strag- 
gling one-storied bungalow, and got out. I could 
not then guess why. In a little parlour kind of 
place a servant in a motley coloured frock, but with 
a white apron, edged with lace, contrasting with a 
cheery face of shining Sambo black, instantly 
brought us tea. A hot cup of tea was indeed a 

195 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

The mules had by this time drawn away, and in 
their place soon afterwards I heard the impatient 
stamping of hoofs on the hard shingly ground. I 
jumped up, and looking out of the wide open 
window, saw two of the prettiest racing ponies I 
ever beheld ; a perfect match in height, colour, 
and everything ; glittering silver harness, a new 
buggy, canopied not unlike a Cape cart but dif- 
ferent from the prevailing pattern of Jamaica, and 
a coachman simply an older edition of Solomon 
in short, curly grey hair. 

Forgetting the proper gravity of a married 
woman ! and my duty as president of a tea-table, 
I bolted, leaving Ted to finish his tea and marma- 
lade. At the door I saw my wraps had been 
transferred, and that my dressing-bag occupied one 
of the seats, and that sedate edition of Solomon, 
David by name, as 1 later learned, was standing at 
the horses' heads. 

Then I hesitated. My irresponsible girlish spirits 
were gone. I guessed it all. 

I knew such horses could only be for show in a 
Jamaican town, and for a lady's particular use in a 
country district like ours. So I returned to the 
little tea-room. But I had no words. It is one 
thing, I thought, to buy such luxuries for oneself 
when one has, so to speak, earned them after a long 
period of strict economy and " doing without," but 
it is quite another thing to come upon such a 
gift all unawares. Happily love has her own 
tongue ought I not to say her own lips ? for 
I kissed my husband then, for the third time 
that day (am I startled at my own immodesty 
in confessing it ?), and said in a rather shaky 
voice, without venturing to meet his kindly but 
penetrating eyes : 

" But, Ted, we shall be ruined, I'm sure." 

196 



"MY HOME-COMING" 

" Don't think it, my sweet little woman," he 
said, taking me in his strong arms. 

It does not concern this narrative of trifles, but 
it occurs to me as I write that Ted never mentions 
my name, has never done so to me in letter or 
speech for years now never since our love was 
grown up. Nowhere, therefore, can it appear in 
these quite truthful confessions. It is to me a 
very, very precious compliment ; I do not always 
like to think of it; it so oppresses me with a sense 
of my own unworthiness as a kind of claimant 
upon such adoration that wee me and his great 
love. I can only hope, and try, and pray that I 
may die rather than break the sacred spell with 
which I know he surrounds everything that is me 
and mine. 

" Many a man," he went on, as he sat down and 
gently drew me on his knee, " gives his wife a little 
chain of diamonds, or a string of pearls that would 
cost five or ten or twenty times as much, and 
nothing is thought of it among rich people, which 
we are not, while these pretty spidery-legged 
things, as you called them, will give you infinitely 
more pleasure and a good deal more care and 
agreeable thought. And, after all, they represent 
only a very small sacrifice among the many sacri- 
fices of our year and a half apart." 

Not for lovemaking nor speechmaking would 
the horses brook any more delay. Their impa- 
tience was beautiful to behold. Still, I got up 
from Ted's knee a little reluctantly, I admit ; but 
am I not a daughter of Eve, and as truly in love 
with love as any woman, and can 1 be ever wearied 
in hearing my big goosey goosey-gander say how 
truly he is mine ? 

I was pulling on my white gloves white when 
the day began, but soiled enough now determined 

197 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

to travel that road to ruin and financial destruc- 
tion, I had pictured in a touch of despair, with as 
light a heart as any beggar on horseback, or those 
thoroughbred steeds would allow. 

A surprise, however, was in store for Ted as we 
drove up to Morden Grange, Merryfields, my new 
home our new home. There were assembled all 
the men, women and children employed, and many 
others besides, upon whose goodwill we had no 
claim other than that of neighbours. From estate 
and plantation and mill they had come, with 
shining faces and their Sunday best harvest-high- 
festival clothes, to welcome "the White Missus." 

Hats were off, and strings of little banners, 
gathered up from goodness knows where, festooned 
the entrance to the Great House, as they call 
our home our bungalow to distinguish it from 
their own places, which are hardly larger than so 
many ship's cabins. 

They all talked at me, as it seemed to me by 
their expressions and the babel of voices. They 
smiled and laughed and bowed, and smiled and 
laughed again. 

I tried to look as pleased as I felt, and from the 
first step leading up to the verandah I made the 
one and only speech of my life. 

" Thank you for your welcome home. I am 
very, very pleased. Thank you, and good night." 

I was gaily gathering up my pretty but dusty 
skirts, to mount the four or five remaining steps, 
when I saw a little black girl in spotless white 
bearing a bouquet of flowers, with narrow stream- 
ing ribbons all decorated with flowers on either 
side. Ted saw the little thing's bewildering ner- 
vousness as she was urged and, indeed, pushed 
forward. The next instant she would have been 
in tears, but Ted saved the situation by kindly 

198 



" MY HOME-COMING " 

taking her by the hand and bringing her to me, 
and then she gave me the bouquet quite nicely. 

" And what is your name ? " I asked, looking at 
a face that was strangely English save in colour 
that was inky black another of Ted's historical 
or anthropological conundrums, I thought. 

" Mabel Guy Mannering," she said. 

memories of great Scott ! I took the lovely 
flowers (orchids gathered from the banks of a river 
not far away), truly a bouquet for a queen. 

1 kissed Mabel, to her own surprise and the grati- 
fication of all beholders, save Ted, whose face was 
instantly all clouds. 

With a " Now-what-have-I-done " feeling, I 
hastened indoors to explore 1 



199 



XXX 

"OUR HOME" 

How can I explain what " our " home is like to a 
sister who has never visited a country where the 
climate is always warm, warm even in winter, and 
in summer intensely hot ! 

We are on the site of some Spanish grandee's 
home in the far-off days of two or three centuries 
ago ; the great walls he built, monuments of 
enduring labour, form the cellars and foundations 
of our two-storied bungalow. A broad and covered 
piazza encircles the house, and here we spend our 
wakeful days, not less than the hours of our siesta, 
and eat most of our food everything save, I was 
going to say, our one formal meal of the day, and 
how " formal " that is, you will judge later. 

Almost every hour of the twenty-four is spent 
in the fresh air, every window is wide open, and 
not a carpet covers any floor, though one or two 
loose rugs are in every room. Then think of it, ye 
poor things in smoke-begrimed, foggy, rainy, 
slushy London not a fireplace in the whole house, 
save the make believe presided over by our cook, 
which reminds me 

The one and only cookery recipe I remember 
hearing about in childhood days, was from Mrs. 
Somebody's book Glasse, I fancy, was the worthy's 
name : 

200 







" NOT A CAB PET 

covers any floor, though one or two loose rugs are in every room. Then, think of 
it, ye poor things in smoke-begrimed, foggy, rainy, slushy London not a fire- 
place in the whole house save the make-helieve presided over by our cook." 

(See p. 200.) 




Photo by If. 5. Campbell 
BOSIE WASIIINO CLOTHES IX THE ItlVEB 



" OUR HOME " 

How TO JUG HARE. 
First catch your hare ! 

I can give you another : 

How TO COOK A DINNER. 
First catch your cook ! 

Justina was a household treasure, but the moment 
she heard me approaching the kitchen she fled, and 
down in the garden twenty or thirty yards away I 
would espy her hiding behind a tree. 

" Justina, Justina/' I would call, " you come here, 
please," trying hard not to laugh, though I was 
bubbling over with suppressed merriment at the 
whole spectacle. 

" Yas, missus," she would reply, but too filled 
with fear to move a step. 

After days and days of effort and coaxing, and 
the practice of nice diplomacy, I reached the con- 
versational stage, and Justina was induced to hear 
my orders within the boundary walls of our own 
house. 

But her nervousness was terrible to behold. She 
could never remain still and listen for one brief 
second. If a picture hung on a wall, suspended by 
a cord sufficiently long to allow of it, she would 
for no purpose whatever turn its face to the wall, 
then give it two more turns. 

" Justina, do please listen and leave that picture 
alone," I would say. 

" Yas, Missus." 

The next instant she was busied with the lower 
hem of her apron, pleating it, and positively tearing 
it in her fright. 

" Justina, don't tear that apron." 

" Yas, Missus." 

Then the paint on the wall had her undivided 

201 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

attention, and she was busy picking off microscopic 
pieces with her finger nails ! 

That is our cook ! 

Still, 1 am quite hopefuL We shall get along 
very well in time, and, thank goodness, she has a 
born gift for soup-making, as you will presently 
learn for yourself, 

Clementina Maud Evadne Brown, who is both 
lady's maid and housemaid, is another household 
treasure. First let me tell you what she looks like. 
Think of the genuine negro woman ; a skin as black 
as coal, and yet a certain indefinable comeliness, 
except that she makes up her hair in a series of 
innumerable plaits. These stick out from her head 
at right angles for six days out of the seven, like 
so many points of a porcupine. And never do I 
see her without a sailor hat. She waits at table, as 
she waits upon me, shoeless, stockingless, but never 
hatless ! 

Some hidden mystery lurks in that hat, for on 
its indented crown everything is carried, from the 
heavy pail to the merest trifle. 

We are at dinner, coffee is served, I have no 
spoon. Stately, white-haired David, who usually 
waits at table, besides valeting Ted, driving with 
me when Ted is otherwise engaged, and attending 
to some higher class work on the estate or at the 
mill, is away. 

" Clementina, please bring me a spoon." 

Clementina gracefully betakes herself to the 
sideboard, takes up a spoon, puts it on the crown 
of her hat, walks over to me, takes it from her 
head, and places it at my side. 

Then I have no milk for even the best Blue 
Island coffee in the world I desecrate with both 
milk and sugar, to Ted's agonising despair. 

"Please hand me the milk, Maud" I can't 

-202 



"OUR HOME" 

always get round her first long name, in which she 
takes high pride.- 

Clementina takes up the jug, balances it adroitly 
on her head, takes exactly two steps to where I sit, 
lifts the jug from her head, and places it at my side. 

On Sunday, however, the plaits disappear, and 
with these go the plain sailor hat. Her hair is 
nowhere more than two or three inches long, but 
it is now all in frizzy waves, nipped up at the 
back with a large coloured bow. White frock of 
course, with much lace, a petticoat most abun- 
dantly starched, a hat of many colours, and some- 
what showy hose and shoes. She is going to 
church this morning and is indeed typical of her 
people, inasmuch as everything she possesses is 
epitomised in the clothes on her back. It is Harvest 
Festival Sunday and she asks for an offering, " half 
a daller," and goes proudly on her way. 

I felt a little scandalised when Ted told me that 
these " harvest festivals " take place some half- 
dozen times a year ! 

I would not, however, let my goose of a husband 
know I felt a bit " had," another of Ted's sweet 
colloquialisms, despite the fact that he reads, week 
by week, every line of a purist stickler like the 
Spectator, so I said, 

u You seem to think you are in England still, 
my dear," in my most withering tone. 

" Well, what of that ? " he asked, barely lifting 
his eyes from the Jamaican newspaper, the Gleaner, 
or Telegraph, he was just then pretending to read. 

" Simply this if the harvest in Jamaica is 
gathered all the year round, I don't see how 
thanksgiving can ever be out of season." 

"Quite true, little woman," said Ted in that 
annoyingly conciliatory mood a man adopts when 
you really feel ready for a grand field battle. 

203 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Of course the plain truth is that these festivals 
are a means of gathering money from the planter 
through the medium of his servants, and fruit and 
bread from his labourers: while even the poorest 
of all must give, I find, even if it is only a loaf of 
bread. 

We have a market in a little town not far away, 
twice a week. Sometimes the market seems to 
have been forgotten by the sellers. Then are we 
dependent upon our own resources, the chickens of 
our own rearing, the canned meats of our own 
bringing, the marmalade of our own making, and 
the fruits, many and various, of our own growing. 

But fish is nearly always to be had King fish 
bonito, very much like a mackerel, but with the 
snout of a pike, and yellow tails costing on an 
average a penny the half-pound. Chickens we buy 
at a shilling apiece, alive, for feeding up. Beef is 
" a bit " per lb., a bit being 4|^. or three quatties, 
a " quattie " a term introduced probably by Irish 
visitors or settlers being l^d. (quarter of sixpence) ; 
a " tup " I was led to believe was yet another term 
for l^d., and not for 2d., though I had " ma doots " ; 
and "gill," I learned, was half a quattie f d. ; a 
picayune, a word surely drawn from the extinct 
tongue of the Carib, 3 \d. ; and a " mac " a relic of a 
Scottish visitation this time being Is. 

This seems all quite simple, but when I asked 
for " a tup " worth onions, and then " a tup " worth 
of salt, I was corrected " No, missus, a ' gill ' of 
salt," though " gill " is a money term, not a measure 
of capacity as at home. And then, as if this con- 
fusion were not enough for my poor head, I have 
to think of wages in " dollars," and of a survival of 
old times when a l note w r as worth 12s., from 
which we still have only 6d. in silver to pay, 
instead of Wd. 9 calculated on the basis of the old 

204 



-OUR HOME" 

paper currency. Lastly, let me say, though your 
native servant is not concerned with the meat 
problem, and gets on very well with very little of 
it, that sheep's mutton is dear 7%d. per lb., while 
goat mutton is rather cheaper, at 5d. per lb. 

No native soup seems to be made without yam. 
Yam is the stock-pot for all dishes. But as the 
soups are all good, in which tomatoes, onions, calalu 
(or is it callalloo ?), a kind of spinach, form leading 
items, we were both gratified and satisfied. 

A novelty in native ways occurs every day. 
When I find a fresh servant in the house, I 
merely say, " Clementina, who is that stranger 
helping you in tjie rooms ? " 

" Yas, missus ; dat my sister." 

The servants in this land exchange their visits 
quite freely, but never go away without leaving a 
substitute. 

Then it was Justina's turn to have a couple of 
days off, to make a visit of inspection at the house 
of some cousin or aunt. At dinner her sister, 
Rosie, did all right for us until it came to the 
coffee. When that was served, I could not make 
out what had happened, and Ted pulled an 
altogether unnecessarily long face as though he 
had gulped a dose of medicine as a makeshift for a 
soothing liqueur. 

" Maud," I said, " will you ask Rosie to come 
and see me ? " 

" Yas, Missus," said the girl, eyeing my husband 
apprehensively/"' 

Clementina Maud Evadne Brown bolted as 
though she suspected a storm,, but Rosie entered 
with laggard step, as though she expected me to 
beat her on the spot little me ! whom she could 
pick up and carry away on her back like a baby. 

" Rosie," I began, " did you make the coffee ? " 

205 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

"Yas, missus." 

" What did you put in ? " 

" Coffee, missus." 

" Yes," I said, trying to resist a smile at the way 
she had picked up my silly question, " but any- 
thing else, Rosie ? " endeavouring to put her a little 
at her ease. 

" Yas, missus." 

What ? " 

" Out ob de jar." 

" The spice ? " 

" Yas, missus." 

" But why put in spice ? " 

" De spice by de coffee, missus," meaning that 
the spice lay beside the coffee in the storehouse. 

I gasped in relief that it was nothing worse. 

" Well ! " I said, trying my best to look severely 
at my husband, " you need not make such a long 
face. I have known of people who make quite a 
rule of putting spice into their tea." 

I confess I did not think the logic of the argument 
was very sound, but I regarded it my duty to 
defend the house-keeping. 

" I'm not pulling a face, I'm only thanking 
Heaven it was not soft soap," groaned Ted. 

I thought Heaven would not thank " Massa 
Edward" for his prayers of thanksgiving if he 
came with a face like that. 

Unable, however, to maintain the gravity of the 
situation for another instant, I burst into laughter 
at the sight of the quaking Rosie, who still seemed 
to be expecting me to whack her with a sugar cane. 
Ted hid his face in the coffee cup, and Rosie, re- 
lieved but disappointed (she had certainly counted 
on that chastening, or " roughing " as they call it, 
with the sugar cane), retreated to her own domain 
as we moved to our chairs on the verandah. 

206 



"OUR HOME" 

Another day. Time, 2 P.M I am going for a 
drive later in the afternoon, and I overhear this 
conversation. 

" Solomon ! " 

" Yas, squire." 

" The mistress is taking the horses for a drive at 
4 o'clock. Now, keep your eye on the clock and 
be round to the minute." 

" Yas, squire, your boy be dere " 

Or this : 

" Solomon, I want you to water the mules." 

" Yas, squire, your boy do dat." 

It is not, however, all plain sailing, and we have 
curious ebullitions of temper. 

* I want you to cut that grass." It is my 
husband's voice. 

" Yas, squire." 

" Clean the harness you used this morning ? " 

" Yas, squire." 

" And fetch the water ? " 

" Yas, squire." 

Solomon seems to take his bearings. 

" You understand ? " 

" Yas, squire. But I no cut dat grass. I take 
oat' my hand drop off 'fore I cut dat grass." 

" You have taken an oath ! You must do 
exactly as I tell you cut that grass, clean the 
harness, fetch the water. Now, begin at once." 

" I refuse, squire." 

" You have got to do it all the same, remem- 
ber!" 

" I refuse, squire ; I refuse, squire ; my hand 
drop off, my hand " 

I could hear no more of Solomon's reiterations 
of his oath. 

The firm insistence, however, was enough, the 
grass was cut, the harness was well cleaned and oiled, 

207 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

and the water was fetched in fact, Solomon did an 
admirable day's work that day, although the day was 
nearly half spent before he began. And, truth to 
say, despite all the mutterings, the work was done 
quite willingly in the end. 

I mention the incident as showing that these 
people bear no malice for any triumph of the white 
will over theirs. 

The barbecue is not exactly as its name would 
imply, the place of great feasts, but it is none the 
less the scene of all the courtships and revelry on 
the estate ; and there, in the open air on this huge 
stone table, without shade from the sun, Justina 
does everything except her actual cooking, and 
Clementina Maud all the cleaning she can carry 
there. 

To that meeting-place at the rear of our house 
Solomon carries the harness and waits for orders, 
but David is above all such familiarity his dis- 
tinction as driver to the White Missus and valet 
to the good Buckra gentleman places him in a 
position of dignity and responsibility, and this air 
of superiority is not lost upon Solomon. 

But, speaking generally, every one who has 
business with us, and many who have none, find 
their way to the barbecue, there to chatter and 
laugh, and laugh and chatter, by the hour, as 
though no tropical sun were smiting their heads at 
a temperature that may easily register 125 and 
more. 

Another novelty to me was to find that our 
indoor servants sleep outside in a kind of school- 
boys' cricket pavilion. It must be a queer place, 
for when I ask for " Pepper," the fox terrier, I am 
told he is asleep in Justina's bed. When I ask for 
the cat "Poosey," as they say it, is there too. 
And the last of the family I heard that had made 

208 




Photo by IV. S. Campbell 
WAG WATER VALLEY 

Xo picture in black and white can do justice to the rich colouring of Jamaican 

scenery. The translucent blue mist shrouding the distant hills, which is part of 

the charm of every view, is left wholly to the imagination. 



"OUR HOME" 

her home in that same corner, not in the bed this 
time I hope, was one of the hens with five of her 
chickens ! 

Certainly Justina must have a tough skin to defy 
the insect life that poultry bring inevitably in their 
train. 

" Grass lice bad for true, but fowl lice much 
wickeder/' was David's sagacious comment. 

The native labourer, with his wife and children, 
lives in a hut of his own construction, for which, 
with a small piece of land adjoining as a kind of 
garden, he or she, as the wife is often the house- 
holder, pays a hut tax or rent of twelve shillings a 
year. That return would not be worth considering 
save for the indirect command it gives Ted over all 
their labour, while if they themselves steal from 
our plantation they certainly stop any other 
thieving. 

Among these poor people, with the simple souls 
of children, and as easily quickened to laughter as 
to tears, I have become directly or indirectly 
" Medicine Woman," a duty I suppose that in 
the far-off days belonged exclusively to women 
Happily their ailments are few, chiefly an occa- 
sional fever, for which doses of quinine are the 
stock remedies. 

" Squire, your boy, sar," (I hear the voice from 
without,) "is going about doing all as usual, but 
his stomach is very high, very high, squire ; him 
no well at all." 

I look out, and there is the unhappy Solomon, 
such a picture of woe ! 

According to the strict rule of the country in 
all cases of illness, his head is bound up in a large 
handkerchief, and his face haggard and melancholy 
beyond expression. 

Enough mHicine to kill three ordinary men, and 

209 o 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

a stiff glass of white rum, enable the unhappy 
man to dispense with the handkerchief and assume 
a more cheerful frame of mind. 

When the entire village is ill, and all appear 
with heads bound up in handkerchiefs, you would 
assume either that there has been a grand Belfast 
riot in the sacred cause of freedom, truth, and 
religion, or that the whole population is affected 
with toothache. Nothing of the kind ; the cause 
in each case may be anything from a sprained 
ankle to a stomach ache, the latter for preference 
being the more common malady. 

Yet it is extraordinary to observe how these 
powerful negroes, who will suffer all sorts of 
intense pain, a bad slice in the arm, for instance, 
with the machete a huge ugly knife they use 
in the banana plantation, and for all other pur- 
poses besides with almost stoical fortitude, will 
yet succumb in hopeless despair to any kind of 
internal pain. 

" I go die," says a man, and die he does. 

Our home has undergone many changes. I 
have not been so silly as to try to graft upon the 
life of the tropics the conditions of home that are 
suited to the temperate zone alone. But I have 
tried to put away the burlesque imitations of life 
in England. 

The housemaid's straw hat has of course dis- 
appeared, and in its place Clementina wears what 
is typical of her own native taste (and therefore 
suitable and even interesting in my eyes), a tur- 
ban of emerald green and magenta stripes not 
fixed on after the Indian fashion, but rather like 
the Egyptian, showing no hair, the ends coming 
down at the nape of the neck in a very becoming 
way. 

Justina, too, has a turban, and both wear shoes 

210 



Photo by Jf. S. Campbell 
AT THE MOUTH OF THE WAG WATER 




Photo l>y Mr. Algernon E. Aspinall (If. I. Committee) 

OFF THE BEATEN TKACK 



"OUR HOME" 

for my pleasure; while, to preserve the quiet 
of the house as the servants move about, I have 
laid down in the passages dark green prairie mat- 
ting. 

" You're a brick," says Ted, " for making a house 
look like home a cultured and refined home in- 
stead of the usual settler's place arranged like the 
temporary resting-place of an alien in a foreign land, 
a kind of let's grow rich and get out of this quick 
feeling everywhere." 

Of Justina, Clementina, Rosie, and all the rest of 
them, they are never done with my praises, inspired 
partly by treatment kindly and firm, and partly, 
too, by their surpassing admiration for all my frocks 
and frilleries, which Clementina handles with the 
reverence of a Roman father displaying to your 
wondering gaze the sacred relics of a martyred 
apostle. 

Indeed, in this corner of the land I reign with 
the invisible sceptre of a goddess, not a queen, and 
every new baby for miles round bears my name ! 
No woman could desire, much less deserve, such 
self-abasement, such admiration, nay such worship 
as any lady may enjoy among these pure-minded, 
simple-hearted loving people. 

When it is my turn, figuratively, to bind up my 
head in a white handkerchief, I betake myself to a 
secluded corner of the piazza and rest. 

Clementina is all sympathy and devotion, 

A great silence is proclaimed ! No sound is 
suffered to reach my ears save the drowsy hum of 
the bees among the flowers, and every now and 
then a rustling among the leaves of the trees as 
some tiny, richly-feathered bird flits from bough to 
bough. 

I am only a little a-wearied. But my couch is a 
veritable shrine. 

211 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

I lift tired eyelids and espy a black boy to whom 
Justina has accorded this privilege of " visiting the 
sick." The shoeless feet approach, the nearly 
noiseless, almost hesitating tread is that of the 
unworthy publican in the tabernacle. 

I note the solemn face, I understand the kindly 
intention in the gift of fresh milk which he cautiously 
bears in a glass with both hands. 

" For de sick," he says, with stately gravity, 
proffering his holy offering at the shrine of the 
ailing " White Lady." 

I can only smile my thanks. It is enough. 
His bright eyes beam with gratitude. He is gone. 

I want to laugh, I want to cry. Who is there 
to say I do wrong if I do either or both ? 

But there now, in all this tale of my own glori- 
fication " Massa Edward " seems to have dropped 
for whole pages out of my story. " Seems," I say, 
because he is there all the same, only you can't see. 
Every day is too short to appreciate the delight of 
my new home, to give back in love that of which I 
have received so large a share. 

Sometimes we journey to Kingston, to attend 
staid and proper functions ; to pay our respects to 
his Excellency, and meet at dinner or in the 
gardens of the King's House, such great people 
of the earth as favour our island with a call, and 
sometimes we go to Port Antonio to be enter- 
tained or entertain, chiefly friends of my own from 
New England states, now only a few days' sail 
from our door. 

But whatever the pleasure of these excursions, 
and whatever the delight of chumming up afresh 
with those friends of my youth and reviving 
sweet memories of life and travel and study in 
dear old Italy I am always glad enough to get 
back to our own home ; and sometimes in the 

212 



"OUR HOME" 

first hours of morning light, and sometimes in the 
hours of fading day, I drive, with Ted at my side 
a picture of happiness and content David or 
Solomon behind, arms folded and statuesque, a 
picture that would do credit to Hyde Park, and 
arouse the admiration of all beholders any after- 
noon in Central Park, New York, my fleet-footed 
ponies over great stretches of country, giving 
wonderful glimpses of orchard, land, and sea all 
the way. 

There is a little hotel at the end of one of our 
favourite trips, and there in the cool shade of the 
verandah, looking out on the sea, we sip our tea, 
meet our neighbours, and listen to the faint echo 
of the song of the* fisherman far out at sea : 

Oh the mocking bird, 
Oh the mocking bird, 
Hurrah, hurrah, 

which reaches us, over the dimpling curling waters, 
in its chantlike repetition, like an echo of the deep 
hush and murmur of voices at prayer through 
monastery walls. 

And so, in this land of wood and water, of sun 
shine and song and dreams, we mingle our days 
with night, our nights with day, and seem for the 
nonce to forget that there is a world without, a 
world of eager, hungry, unsatisfied and cruel effort, 
a world in which even bread and fresh air are not 
the heritage of all a contrast, indeed, to our 
little island realm of eternal sunshine, and plenteous 
ease, lying in the very lap of the gods ! 



213 



XXXI 

THE EARTHQUAKE 

WHEN we reached Kingston bunting was spread 
to the breeze, bands played on our decks and on 
the wharf as we came to our moorings. The 
Governor was there to greet us, and a visit, full of 
interest to us and of significance to Jamaica, began 
under the happiest auspices. Hardly more than a 
week later, we left a city of chaos, death, and, 
seemingly, of hopeless ruin. 

Cast into the midst of such an overwhelming 
disaster as befell us with lightning rapidity the third 
day after our arrival, I was not, nor do I think 
any of us were, able to realise in any true sense of 
the word, the pain and suffering, the death and 
ruin, that met our eyes and ears on every side on 
the late afternoon of January 14, 1907, and every 
day thereafter to the end of our stay on the 
island. 

Picture to the mind's eye a cloudless sky, a 
temperature of 92 or 95 in the shade, relieved 
about mid-day by a cooling breeze that increased 
in power until about three o'clock, when it had 
attained the violence almost of a gale, and you 
have the atmospheric conditions that immediately 
preceded a terrible upheaval. 

I was seated at a little table, every window and 
door of the room was wide open, the heat was 

214 



THE EARTHQUAKE 

oppressive. As 1 vainly tried to fix down on paper 
some of the vast store of facts and impressions that 
filled my memory every hour I had lived on this 
amazingly interesting island, I vividly recall the 
sense of positive torture I experienced in the effort 
to concentrate my mind amid all the distractions 
of that tropical afternoon. 

Doors were repeatedly banging, blinds on every 
window were for ever waving in the wind ; at each 
violent gust they would snap like the crack of a 
whip. Lace curtains breaking loose from their 
lower fastenings were streaming continuously on 
the breeze ; on the windward side they were often 
level with the ceiling itself. To add to my nervous 
discomfort, some tiny enemies on transparent wings 
would strike now and then near my ear a clear un- 
mistakable musical tone that suggested an early 
bite. The delights of the tropics, I thought, have 
their abatements ! 

The strong breeze began to lose force until, at 
about 3.30, it had faded into nothingness. For 
two minutes there was not a breath of wind, no 
doors banged, no blinds moved, curtains fell back 
to their places, not a sigh lifted a leaf on any 
bough. Nature had seemingly withdrawn for her 
afternoon siesta. 

And then I live that moment now without 
murmur or warning, from the Blue Mountains 
beyond, or the still bluer heavens above, or the 
ground beneath our feet, there steals down upon 
us some intangible, impalpable monster, before 
whom the very earth reels and groans in violent 
agony and despair. 

The heightening roar is of eternal memory it 
was as though some vast herd of tigers, with warm 
blood already on their tongues, had been suddenly 
robbed of their prey. A giant had seemingly seized 

215 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

upon the foundations of the structure in which I 
sat, and was shaking the building with brutal per- 
tinacity. 

At the first movement of the earth the ceiling 
began to fall about my ears, covering me with 
small particles of mortar and dust though not till 
long afterwards did I notice either. I stood up 
with a certain dazed sense of danger that is near, 
but none of fear. Some guardian angel seems to 
whisper, " It is not now." Ah, yes ; I know ! 

I stepped to the doorway, and for one brief 
second stood there surveying with an unac- 
countable, curious, half-cynical feeling, " If this 
does not cease soon the whole place will be in 
ruins." 

That moment, amid the clatter of broken glass, 
collapsing floors directly above my head, tumbling 
walls of brick, and falling masonry, the instinct 
came" Escape." 

I jumped from the piazza into the garden, but 
immediately stopped to observe, with wholly de- 
tached consciousness, as I replaced the cover to the 
point of my fountain-pen, the work of destruction 
as it went rapidly on in that wing of the building 
from which I had just made my exit. 

I have heard how the universe seemed to revolve 
like a child's top for four or five seconds, and then 
stop with a frightful jerk. But no one has de- 
scribed to me the dancing earth as I experienced it 
at that moment. The circular movement was 
there, close under my feet, but the upward move- 
ment was not less marked. We seemed to rise and 
fall as though embarked on the surging sea. Heavy 
walls swayed like an insecure bad stage setting, 
and at the same moment the earth rose and fell, 
bringing down masses of debris at every plunge 
into some hidden gulf, breaking floors like so much 

216 



I 



Photo by It'. S. Campbell 

KINGSTON FROM THE SEA, AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE 

Showing the smoke rising from the burning- city. 





Photo by courtesy of Mr. Kbcnczsr Carr 

APPROACH ING KINGSTON FROM THE COUNTRY 

The tlrst feature to attract attention was the dense clouds of smoke and dust that 
filled the sky and obscured the sun. 



THE EARTHQUAKE 

match-boarding, and tearing every holding from its 
socket in wrathful violence. 

At 3.32 Kingston was happy and well. At 3.33 
the city was seemingly a hopeless wreck, with the 
very sun itself obscured from our vision. All man's 
handiwork of a generation, nay, of a whole century 
or more, was instantly flouted. A whole com- 
munity lay in ruins and in tears, in suffering and 
in death. 

Many efforts have been made to measure the 
disaster by some standard of significance to the 
understanding : the roll of death, the area of 
destruction, the small proportion of buildings left 
standing, the happening in mere duration of time. 

How vain ! Eternity can alone reveal the secret 
of the disaster's toll of death, and how purposeless 
to attempt any measure of the awful agony and 
suffering that succeeded that fateful moment when 
still another and deadlier enemy had crept into our 
midst, and fire was completing its awful task ! 

Some have said the earthquake was all the work 
of twenty seconds. May be so. But who among; 
us can count the passage of time in the moment of 
a cataclysm, when the mind is living a vast eternity 
every second, and the tablets of the memory are 
crowded with so many conflicting impressions, 
impulses, and memories ? 

Any languishing sense of bitter resentment 
towards any one, at any time, anywhere, falls from 
us like a discarded cloak. I think of such as near 
and dear to my own heart, and ask, "Where? 
Whence ? Alone ? Why am I not seeking ? 
saving ? doing ? " 

God has indeed visited His people, but what of 
the call of humanity 7iow ? 

Twenty seconds ? Why not ? Perhaps ! Though 
I judge quite twice as long. 

217 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Words cannot picture a scene of such desolation 
and despair as befell Kingston within that brief and 
awful space of time. The thunder of falling 
masonry stuns the air. Solid brick walls bulge, 
and then collapse with a crash ; great structures 
of iron, wood, brick, and stone sink like a house of 
cards ; roofs built entirely of wood glide away from 
their holdings into the street; entire buildings 
become in a moment a mere mash of ddbris. 

There is a tiny moment of silence, in which people 
are trying to realise what has happened. And then 
out of all this ruin, with the very sun itself obscured 
by blinding dust, there comes the pleading cry of the 
helpless, the dreadful oaths of the bitterly hopeless, 
the swooning and only half conscious groans of the 
dying. The call for help is everywhere, the plea 
for water here, the agonised appeal for release from 
broken timbers there. 

Out of the confused mass of impressions, one 
recalls the pictures of a hospital thronged to over- 
flowing, of the decks of the Port Kingston (the only 
British ship in harbour at the time) crowded with 
the dead and dying and suffering multitude, of the 
mangled remains of the unknown and unrecognis- 
able cast into great barges, to be later thrown into 
the sea a few miles away as food for the sharks ; of 
the half incinerated bodies that were to be met 
with at every turn, of the dead ranged in rows along 
side streets ; of the procession of carts to the ceme- 
tery at May Pen, a little way outside the town ; 
but, most gruesome of all, the great funeral pyres 
in Kingston itself, a veritable inferno, into which 
the dead were cast in such vast numbers. In this 
way one gathers fragmentary notions of the stu- 
pendous character of the disaster. 

I do not quarrel with this ready despatch of the 
dead into the bosom of the sea, nor do I set up any 

218 




Photo lifv. S. Campbell 
THE COURTYARD OF THE MYRTLE BANK HOTEL 



Lifting a body from the ruins. 



THE EARTHQUAKE 

sentimental claim for the sacredness of the visible 
tabernacle of the soul thus cast into the flames; 
for, whatever your views on these questions, a 
tropical sun and a scorching day have a way of 
determining the problem, and you find yourself in 
favour of the readiest means of disposing of the 
dead as the only means of saving the living, 

During the days following the earthquake, the 
streets of Kingston were becoming hourly more 
pestilential ; and if the dead had not been dealt 
with in the rapid way I have indicated, Jamaica 
would have been in peril of a visitation of plague 
worse even in its toll of death than the earthquake 
itself. 

Amid all the human sacrifice one's finer sensi- 
bilities are inevitably blunted. Were it otherwise, 
one could not at such a time eat and live. Yet I 
confess to many a heart throb as the awful drama 
unfolded itself, sometimes before my own eyes, 

Who among us can realise the distracted state of 
mind of the loyal wife, secure at home, watching 
and waiting as minute succeeded minute, and, 
finally, hour succeeded hour ? 

Yet no news of the absent one. 

Unable to still the beating sense of apprehen- 
sion, she started out in this city of desolation 
and plunder, and possibly worse, who knows ! 
on the apparently hopeless task of finding an 
injured husband ; never relaxing her efforts 
throughout that endless night ; turning over the 
dead that she might see a tattered and torn face ; 
examining clothes when all other efforts at iden- 
tification were fruitless, peering into the faces of the 
injured here all, all, in the one elemental heart- 
rending mission of love, only to be rewarded in the 
end by reaching the cemetery in the first grey light 
of dawn at the very moment the first shovelful of 

21 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

earth were being cast into a hastily made grave upon 
the upturned face she had sought so long. 

Not without a thrill can I think of that woman's 
dark night of suffering and sorrow, of that tragic 
moment when her dry eyes first realised a cruel 
immutable destiny, and, at long last, of her return 
to a wrecked and now desolated home. She had 
indeed kept the vow " until death us do part/' and 
made the world richer by her fidelity and love. 

What that desolated habitation can be was 
realised only too acutely in another instance, where 
a soldier brushing past other survivors burst into 
what remained of the old home. There lay he 
saw the whole tragedy was at one glance revealed 
the mangled and bloody remains of his family 
wife and children in one huddled heap. He cast 
one awful look upon the hideous scene, and 
staggered back without a sound, his body shaking 
convulsively. 

" Then he turned slowly away. He appeared to 
hesitate a moment, but suddenly, before we had 
the slightest chance to prevent him," says the Red 
Cross worker, " he drew his revolver and shot him- 
self through the head." 

Tragedy unfolded itself in unexpected places. 
Amid the dust and smoke the black nurse, with a 
white child in her arms, ventures out on the upper- 
most verandah to signal for aid ; the staircase has 
apparently gone. But the earth is still vibrating. 
The next instant there is the sound of creaking 
timber, and oh, unmerciful Heaven ! the verandah 
is giving way. An instant later nurse and child 
have lost foothold, and are precipitated among the 
hopeless ruins at our feet. 

The devotion of these dark-visaged children of 
the sun to the white baby in their charge is that 
touch of nature that makes the whole world kin, 

220 




CARRYING THE WOUNDED TO THE 1'OIIT KIMiSTOX 




Roth Photos by 1 1'. S. Campbell 



AN OPERATION ON DECK 



THE EARTHQUAKE 

Their heroism is the bright page in a black history. 
What white mother could rise to greater heights 
of saintly sacrifice than did the negro nurse here, 
there, everywhere ? 

The earthquake happened at a moment when 
most young children were asleep in their cots. At 
the first sound of alarm the black nurse sought 
safety, not for herself, but for the Englishwoman's 
child. And she did this often at the price of her 
own life. In one instance, amid all the fallen 
timbers, mortar and brick, a mother found her 
child's cot smashed, the nurse on her knees pro- 
tecting her charge with her own strong arms and 
her own body. The nurse was a mutilated corpse, 
the child in the protection of her arms unscathed, 
happy and cooing. 

Such fabulous escapes are numberless. Sir Alfred 
Jones, bearing, like each of us, a charmed life, was 
inside the Myrtle Bank Hotel, yet escaped un- 
harmed from u building that engulfed many people 
beneath his feet. Rumour included among these 
victims three passengers known to us all Miss 
F. E. R. Hall, of Manchester ; Dr. Thomas Savage, 
of Birmingham ; and the latter's nephew, Mr. L. 
O'Connell. But once more rumour lied, for despite 
the most strenuous investigation of the ruins, no 
remains of these three persons were either found 
among the ruins of Myrtle Bank or elsewhere, and 
though the Port Kingston brought back their 
luggage, gathered from their rooms at the Constant 
Spring Hotel, their fate remains an insoluble mys- 
tery to this hour. 

Mr. Jesse Collings, Sir Thomas Hughes, Mr. 
Howell Davies, M.P., and others were in the 
garden of Myrtle Bank, and suffered nothing worse 
than a fall from the upheaving earth. Lord Dudley, 
the Governor, Archbishop Nuttall, Sir Daniel 

221 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

Morris, Dr. Swaby (the Bishop of Barbados), and 
delegates from all the West Indian islands, were in 
the Conference Hall of the Old Mico building. 

Mr. John R. Boveli was actually reading his paper, 
giving the results of his experiments with seedling 
canes at Barbados, when the angry roar silenced 
his voice a roar, as Lord Dudley described it, like 
a great river that had burst its banks and was 
carrying all before it. The building began to 
heave, and there was then for one brief instant 
what threatened to be an ugly rush for the door, 
when over the din came the voice of the Arch- 
bishop, firm and convincing . 

" Gentlemen, keep your seats." 

Order was instantly restored, and every one left 
the building in safety, only to encounter scenes of 
the most frightful wreckage and carnage all around. 
On the doorstep of the Conference Hall Lord 
Dudley realised that he was hatless. The first 
violent tremor had by that time ceased, and Lord 
Dudley calmly returned to the building that still 
threatened instant collapse, and from the platform, 
whence he had just clambered down, secured hat 
and umbrella. 

The Jamaica Club was included in the total 
wreck. Here Mr. Gerald Loder escaped from a 
broken chair, under which he was thrown and 
pinned down by falling walls and roof, while in the 
same room two members were struck dead in their 
seats. Mr. R. W. Bradley, a former editor of the 
Gleaner, but more recently engaged reading for 
the Bar, was in the billiard room with Mr. A. R. 
Hamilton, a coffee planter. Cue in hand, each 
man bolted through an open window into the 
garden. Mr. Hamilton escaped, but Mr. Bradley 
one of the best all-round sportsmen on the island, 
whether at billiards, tennis or bridge, whose invari- 

222 




THE BURNING CITY 

" The sky was a brilliant constellation of glorious lights, the waters over which we 

passed, dark and awesome, rendered all the more forbidding by the human flotsam 

and jetsam (from which I must shut my eyes) Hoating idly on its surface from a 

ruined city." (See p. 230.) 



THE EARTHQUAKE 

able luck was a byword was the thousandth part 
of a minute late. A great iron girder reached 
him in his flight at the extreme length of its fall, 
killing him on the spot. 

In that same clubhouse I had luncheon with 
Mr. A. McDowell Nathan, the chief merchant of 
Kingston, the day before on my return from Port 
Antonio, At the moment of the happening Mr. 
Nathan was seated in a barber's chair. With the 
towel still about his neck he rushed from the rock- 
ing building into the street, only to meet with 
instantaneous death, while the barber (and his 
chair) remained unscathed. 

Sir James Fergusson was in a tobacco shop at 
the corner of Harbour Street, when he hastened 
into the street and to his death. By some con- 
fusion of identity, as to which I have no key, it 
was reported that it was I who was so killed, and 
that the Vice-Chairman of the Royal Mail had 
escaped. This news was included in the earliest 
information despatched from Jamaica, with the 
result that I too am of that select throng of whom 
each has had the melancholy privilege of reading 
his own obituary. 

The same cablegram announced that Captain 
Constantine had narrowly escaped in some miracu- 
lous way. The fact is, I believe, Captain Constan- 
tine did escape the first upheaval, only to fall a 
brave and noble martyr immediately afterwards. 
He was making a valiant effort to save a tortured 
sufferer, upon whom a heavy beam w r as resting, 
when the building collapsed still further, and he 
was lost in the ruins. 

It would serve no useful purpose to recount 
these incidents and correct these errors, except in 
so far as it helps to convey some sense of the 
hopeless confusion into which the city was cast as 

223 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

the people darted hither and thither without in 
the least knowing how or why or whence. It is, 
however, only in this accumulation of bewilder- 
ment and horror that I can hope to realise even 
for myself the chaos no less than the great 
volume of misery that lay everywhere in that 
stricken city that day, and practically wiped it out 
of being. 

And so I might go on multiplying the list, 
always excepting by the strangest good fortune 
every name in the list of Sir Alfred's guests. But 
among the least conspicuous 1 recall, with, perhaps, 
more real and personal pain than all others among 
those who vanished from our sight, as brave a 
little Englishman as ever left our shores. He was 
a boy of, perhaps, twelve or fourteen years, fair 
and handsome, quick of movement, and intelligent, 
with a smile full of roguish good-humour and 
sunshine some mother's precious darling, as I 
judged from little tricks of expression. We had 
chummed up together on the ship. Perhaps friends 
were not too many, and my affectionate sympathy 
was touched. Finding the little fellow alone on 
the verandah of one of the Kingston hotels, 1 gaily 
made a tour of exploration of the hotel in his 
company, ostensibly to see what kind of a place it 
was, really to enable him to know his way about. 
We finished up with the manager, and an in- 
junction that he was to procure for him the best 
attention at meal-time, and to see the little chap 
comfortably tucked up for the night at bed-time. 
I could think of nothing else to make the little 
wayfarer happy, or as happy as his stout heart 
wished me to believe. 

Where is my little friend now ? I cannot tell, 
nor could I glean anything in the turmoil of smoke 
and disaster and the unutterably confused wreck 

221 




THE JAMAICA CLUB IX HANOVER STREET, KINGSTON C.sVe pp. 222-3) 




B.th Photos l-y C. //'. .Mnirhead, 

MACHADO'S CIGAR STORE 



Showing the spot where the Right Hon. Sir James Ferjjusson, Bart., Vfce-Cliairman 
of tlie Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., lost his life. (See p. 223.) 



THE EARTHQUAKE 

of the place where 1 saw him last. I want to 
think he is strong and free, but dare I hope ? 

With the sun obscured from our vision by im- 
penetrable dust that rose like a cloud into the 
heavens, night came on apace. From far and 
wide, fellow voyagers returned to seek out relatives 
and friends. Some hastened to the hospitable 
decks of the Port Kingston, where Sir Alfred, 
captain, officers and crew were one and all aiding 
the sick and dying. Wharf and decks and com- 
panion ways were like shambles, as Dr. Evans 
worked among his numberless patients, all that 
night, all the next day and all the next night, 
alleviating suffering, easing the pain of the hopeless, 
crushed and dying: 

Night had hardly fallen upon the stricken city 
when it was discovered that, as a result of the 
upheaval, the ship's bow was well aground, while 
the clouds of flame and smoke were getting omin- 
ously nearer and nearer. In the face of this new 
danger it was found there was not enough steam 
to move the vessel, with the further difficulty that 
one of the boilers was under repair. At all 
hazards, however, the ship must be got away. 
Efforts were made to get her clear with the aid of 
a small tug, but the tug was incapable of moving 
so large a ship. 

M can while the furnaces were energetically stoked 
in the one supreme effort of making the proud 
vessel mistress of her own destiny. Surely if ever 
an owner was in danger of losing heart, it was 
when the hoarse cry swept by : 

" Make ready the starboard boats." 

Was the emergency now seemingly so near of 
leaving the ship to her fate ? 

Never was the steam gauge watched with such 
feverish anxiety. 

p 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

At last came word from the chief engineer, that 
there was sufficient accumulated energy. "We can 
move the ship." The captain was on the bridge. 
Every member of the crew was at his post, and as 
the last link with the shore was severed, the vessel, 
to the relief of everybody, came away from the 
ground, backing into the main channel. Later 
she was moored to the railway wharf, which was 
out of the danger zone of fire. 

The stream of human suffering flowed on un- 
abated, and while space allowed no one was rejected. 
When the decks became congested, the adjoining 
wharf was requisitioned as a hospital. Here, in 
the open and under cover, when cover could be 
found, the stewards improvised beds ; and every one 
who was able to do so, joined in the effort to 
alleviate the suffering of the agonised people. 

Amid the universal demand, the store of anees- 
thetics was soon exhausted, and thereafter ampu- 
tations had to be carried out under conditions 
one would rather not remember. Sheets and 
pillow-cases belonging to the ship were torn up for 
bandages, and the ship's stores, whether surgical, 
medical, or of whatever kind, were similarly requi- 
sitioned. 

Sir Alfred readily lent his ship, and everything 
that was the property of Messrs. Elder, Dempster 
& Co., in the sacred cause of suffering humanity. 
The permit to Lady Dudley (written in pencil 
on the back of a menu card and reproduced on 
another page) to secure, if possible, meat extract 
and some wine from the larder and the cellars of 
the Myrtle Bank Hotel tells its own tale the 
goodness of heart of the giver, no less than the 
courage and zeal of the ministering angel who 
sought it. 

Another large body of English and American 

226 




KINGSTON RAILWAY STATION 

View from the street, showing the tram terminus outside the railway station. In 

the upheaval the station buildings were destroyed, hut the running of the trains 

was resumed the following day from a point a little way outside the city. 




fioth Photos by Mr, F.bentser C 

SIDE STREET OFF WEST STREET, KINGSTON 



THE EARTHQUAKE 

visitors found their way back to the Constant Spring 
Hotel, six miles outside the city. Many had to 
trudge long distances, the electric tramway having 
collapsed, while buggies even when obtainable, were 
at high premium. The hotel building was badly 
injured, the frontage of the west wing standing 
clear and threatening to fall at any moment. 
Yet it remained, and as I looked I noted that 
amid the warring elements the three flags on the 
building were blown in three opposing directions. 
Indeed, the Cross of St. George on the west wing 
was floating against the prevailing current of the 
wind ! while John Crow, a great black carrion bird, 
for which the ifegro has a superstitious fear, 
swirled round and round the threatened building, 
with an air of the most ugly foreboding. 

Within the hotel everything was in a state of 
wreckage, and at each violent throbbing of the 
earth, every guest and servant who had ventured 
into the building in search of any scraps of food 
or clothing made a mad rush to get clear away : 
leaping over chairs, table, balustrade, or any 
other obstruction that lay along the path of salva- 
tion. 

To reach my own room I had to pass up the 
main staircase, now strewn with debris, and along a 
corridor on the first floor which for twenty or thirty 
yards or more was apparently intact. Then, at 
the bend of the passage, came the other side to the 
picture. The room facing mine was a complete 
and hopeless wreck, and into it had been dropped 
the whole contents of the room above, bed, luggage, 
washstand, all in grotesque disorder. Huge 
fissures in the outside wall revealed the starlight 
night, and the final collapse must surely come 
with the next shock. I clambered over the debris 
that obstructed the passnge and entered my room, 

227 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

only to find it entirely unharmed. Everything 
was in order, no disturbance anywhere, save that 
the ceiling had shed its thin coating of white. 

I flung my traps together and made for the tennis 
lawn, where we arranged our chairs and cushions, 
and in some cases our sofas and our beds, in such 
peace and security as the circumstances allowed 
and the heaving earth made possible. The warm 
and beautiful night closed in early, the cruel red 
glow of the burning city, with its storehouses of 
sugar and rum exploding and bursting into flame, 
shone out in intense brilliance on the black cloud 
of smoke that arose into the gorgeous starlit 
heavens. 

Night had settled down upon us before our 
watchful eye had detected on the mountain heights, 
clear against the sky line, an ominous tongue of 
flame. With traditions of an extinct volcano in 
Jamaica, close up to Kingston somewhere, active 
once though in the far-away past, and memories 
too of Mount Pelee, is it any wonder that the 
little circle that knew kept the secret but lay 
down on the groaning ground with a stolid 
resignation that feared nothing but was prepared 
for the worst ? 

That worst of all calamities, however, did not 
come, and we slept, or pretended to sleep, until the 
morning hour when the Southern Cross, which 
Kingsley affected to disparage, was visible in all 
its splendour and magnificence and the sun cast 
its first pale light on a blasted, blackened, and 
burning heap of ruins. 

The scene at the hospital was in the last degree 
heartrending. The accommodation was hopelessly 
insufficient, and for some time after the catastrophe 
the surgical aid was unutterably inadequate to such 
illimitable demands. 

228 




fl J3 

U 

a ^ 



1 1 



THE EARTHQUAKE 

" Will no one put a bullet through my head ? " 
cried a stricken man outside the hospital, whose 
heart was sick with deferred hope at what seemed 
to him the interminable delay of gaining surgical 
aid. 

" No," said the cheery voice of a doctor coming 
up at that moment ; " we are going to put you on 
your feet again." 

Elsewhere in the stricken city I chanced upon a 
girl cooling with a wicker fan the pulsating face of 
a brother. 

" No human power could, no human power 
should, try to do more than soothe that dying 
pillow," whispered the doctor to me. 

But the sister 'fanned on. 

"The doctor^ says he is unconscious," she mur- 
mured to me later, as I stood near, powerless to 
help, " but I am sure my brother tried to answer 
when I spoke to him a little while ago." 

And the cooling draught, with now and then a 
drop or two of brandy and water, was never inter- 
mitted through the long and weary hours. 

Other friends stood near, willing but powerless 
to give aid. 

Truly they serve who only stand and wait. 

Next day there was still a thread of life, but oh, 
how slowly it shrank ! If in these days of stress 
and trial no prayer had ever found expression on my 
lips it found words then. Why stayed the Angel 
of Eternal Day in her flight ? Why tarried so 
long over what she had marked as her own ? Come 
soon, come now ! 

But it was not yet. In the rich red glow of the 
morning light, however, she came to make the 
imperfect whole. 

That is sorrow and, in a sense, joy too from 
its individual point of view ; what of its accumulated 

229 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

horror ? One night I had occasion to visit Admiral 
Davis on the American warship Missouri. Sir 
Alfred Jones readily granted me a ship's boat, and 
four of the crew, under one of the younger officers, 
at once volunteered to row me over partly out of 
the sailor's disposition to do a kindly thing, partly, 
too, out of a little love of adventure, and in part, 
also, out of a desire to chum up with the roaring 
sea-dogs of a warship. 

The sky was a brilliant constellation of glorious 
lights, the waters over which we passed, dark and 
awesome, rendered all the more forbidding by the 
human flotsam and jetsam (from which I must 
shut my eyes) floating idly on its surface from a 
ruined city. Peace and beauty overhead, danger 
beneath : but there, standing out against the dark 
background of the eternal hills, that most hideous 
of all pictures my mind will ever conjure up 
Dead men's fires. 

Figures, muffled up all about the mouth and nose, 
as a protection against the nauseating gases, moved 
in the deep red glow, throwing into the languishing 
flames fresh fuel of oil and coal and timber, and 
then more and more human remains avid of de- 
struction. The sickening odour is unforgettable ; 
it will not even leave my clothes, nor can any 
hideous nightmare reveal to the mental vision any 
image more revolting of Inferno itself. 

But it would be an unprofitable task to heap up 
the record of the painful and the horrible. My 
object rather is to show that immense as this 
disaster is, Jamaica may yet achieve great thing j. 
She is done for ever with elaborate brick and stone 
structures of a plan and character belonging to the 
home country alone. Her villas and mansion 
houses will not be built in future on the scale 
suited and familiar to Hampstead Heath, but of 

230 




From Photo Init to the Author 

WITHIN THE PUBLJP HOSPITAL AFTKK THE FIRST IMtESSl HE 
HAD BEEN BELIEVED 




Photo by II', .V. Ccintpbtll 



LIGHTER RECEIVING THE DEAD 



Many victims in the earthquake whose bodies hud become a noisome offence were 

removed in b:irgea from Kingston to a point outside the harbour where sharks 

abound. There they were committed to the bosom of the sea as the readiest means 

of disposal. <.Wp. 218.) 



THE EARTHQUAKE 

one storey, or two storeys at most, of the bungalow 
pattern, and composed largely, if not entirely, of 
wood, something in a word that will yield to a 
similar strain should this most fearful visitation be 
repeated, though if the immunities of the past may 
be presumed on such another cataclysm should 
be spared the island until 2122. 

Lastly, Jamaica has now an opportunity of rais- 
ing for herself an entirely new capital. The King- 
ston of yesterday was the most featureless city, 
architecturally considered, that it has been my lot 
to visit narrow streets, a possible side walk, build- 
ings of the most heterogeneous sorts, each reared 
regardless of its neighbour. 

Out of all this chaos may we not hope that 
there will now arise another Kingston, further re- 
moved from the harbour, of broader streets, of 
umbrageous boulevards, with is it too much to 
hope ? in its main thoroughfares a suggestion of 
the Boulevard des Italiens? Nervous tourists may 
hesitate, but fright will be replaced by confidence 
if Jamaicans will now recognise the elementary 
common sense of building shops and houses suited 
to the country. 

Theirs is a land of singular beauty, of wood and 
water, a veritable tropical garden of inexhaustible 
richness, where anything and everything will grow 
and prosper. It is a land with a great past and a 
greater future : if her administrators at home, as 
well as abroad, will but read their lesson aright, 
and realise their opportunities to-day. 



231 



XXXII 




THE 

Samatca alette, 

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 16, 1907. 

PROCLAMATION. 

The Governor desires to express his profound 
sympathy with all persons who have lost relatives 
or friends by the calamity of the 14th inst. 

Also for all those who have suffered in body or 
property by the same visitation. 

He tenders his best thanks to all those who by 
their actions or example have devoted themselves 
to repairing the injuries suffered by all classes of 
people, and he calls upon all persons to take early 
action to repair the damage done. 

His Excellency particularly thanks all those who 
by their steadiness and patience have rendered the 
task of the authorities easier in suppressing the 
fire and in keeping order. 

J. A. SWETTENHAM, 

Governor. 
January 16, 1907. 

232 




BEFORE THE EARTHQUAKE: THE BAND OF THE WEST INDIA 
REGIMENT OUTSIDE THE GARRISON CHAPEL 




AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE 



Both Photos by ir. S. Campbell 
THE RUINS OF THE GARRISON CHAPEL 



XXXIII 
AMERICAN AID 

I HAD no intention of adding one word to the 
story of Jamaica in the bitter hour of her trial, 
nor did I foresee, the occasion (and in some degree 
the necessity) of doing so that has since presented 
itself. My task, as a guest of Sir Alfred Jones, 
consisted in communicating my impressions of a 
beautiful tropical garden, with especial reference to 
the growth of cotton on a wide commercial basis, 
to a syndicate of newspapers, through the agency of 
my friend, Mr. Arthur Spurgeon, of Messrs. Cassell. 
It became known, however, that 1 was in King- 
ston at the time of the upheaval, with the result 
that I received, days after the happening, urgent 
requests from English and American newspapers 
for the fullest personal details. These requests 
conveyed to us within the isolated city the first 
authentic information that nothing but the baldest 
details of the disaster had thus far reached the 
outside world. Further, they told us that within 
certain limitations, i.e., the capabilities of one wire, 
the pressure of Government work in keeping the 
Colonial Office informed of all that had happened, 
and the messages in response to urgent inquiries 
from relatives and friends at home, it was now 
possible to tell something of Kingston's bitter tale 
of suffering and woe. 

233 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

How long the messages received by me had been 
in course of transmission it was impossible to con- 
jecture ; but that there should be delay was inevit- 
able, and that there was delay is proved to me now 
by a more urgently-worded cablegram that has 
followed me home across the Atlantic. This 
message is from the New York Times, and asks if 
it is not possible for me to comply with their 
previous request for a long description of the dis- 
aster : " No adequate report has yet come out of 
Kingston. Intense anxiety here and in England 
for news." From this explanation it will be under- 
stood that throughout the trying hours and days 
following the earthquake, and particularly in regard 
to incidents now related, my duty did not lie in the 
direction of gathering items of news. 

The earlier cables reached me on the deck of the 
Port Kingston. I immediately went off to the 
music saloon, seized such scraps of paper as were 
still available all the passengers had been urgently 
writing letters home, via New York and elsewhere 
and set down in haste, amid overpowering heat 
and the sickening odour of a burning city, such 
facts as were within my own experience. 

" In an atmosphere which is charged with con- 
flicting rumours," I wrote that night in my long 
cablegram, which filled, a few days later, several 
columns of the New York Times* " it is impos- 
sible to believe anything outside one's own know- 

* This message appeared in New York on Sunday instead of Friday 
or Saturday as I had expected, and was apparently the first long 
message to get through (though I was unaware of that fact at the 
time), blocking the wire for a considerable time. It reached London 
on Saturday morning, but was not published till Monday. Mean- 
while an enterprising Transatlantic news-agency made use of the op- 
portunity and despatched the message once more to England, where 
it appeared all over the country at greater or less length in journals 
that had not borne a tithe of the cost entailed by the Daily Mail, 
the newspaper for which it was alone sought and intended. 

234 




A GLIMPSE OF HARBOUR STREET, KINGSTON 




Bo-h Photos by Mr. r.beneser Ca> 
ANOTHER 1'AKT OF HARBOTR STREET, KINGSTON 



AMERICAN AID 

ledge and experience I know the situation has 
been immensely relieved by the arrival of the 
American warships Missouri and Indiana, with a 
torpedo-boat, under Admiral Davis, with men 
ready to offer as a guard and surgeons with medical 
comforts and supplies. Without a moment's delay 
the admiral landed a body of men as guards. He 
also tendered the services of his medical staff; but 
Sir Alexander Swettenham, who exchanged cour- 
tesies with Admiral Davis on board the Missouri, 
declined the offer on the ground that he saw 
no justification for accepting it. Yet I know 
that the presence of the bluejackets quelled with 
opportuneness a rising among the prisoners in the 
penitentiary, and" established a sense of power and 
authority, the value of which it is impossible to 
over-estimate. 

" I cannot appreciate the feeling behind these 
diplomatic courtesies, and do not know how far 
the Governor is acting under the pressure of 
medical etiquette, but I do know that the American 
admiral's offer was made in the cause of our com- 
mon humanity, and the aid of eight surgeons was 
declined while the hospital was crowded with 400 
or 500 patients, though the accommodation was 
barely sufficient for half that number." 

In the cloud of conflicting statements, my infor- 
mation at that moment was that the Governor had 
in some way got his back up over the American 
warships, and that in declining the aid of the navy 
surgeons he was doing so under urgent pressure of 
such of the resident medical men as still survived 
and were available for public work. It was incred- 
ible that doctors could carry professional jealousy 
to such lengths, but pressure of some kind, it 
seemed to me, had been exercised somewhere by 
some one ; and that explanation seemed as reason- 

235 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

able in its unreasonableness as any other that could 
be offered. 

Returning to England, I found that it was this 
action on the part of the Governor that produced 
at home and abroad the most profound sensation, 
just as it produced in me, at the time, and on the 
spot, bewilderment and amazement. Much bitter 
controversy has arisen, and the American "inva- 
sion " of Jamaica has become an historic " inci- 
dent." What are the facts ? 

The earthquake occurred on Monday, the 14th 
January. The days of Tuesday and Wednesday 
were full of dark forebodings as to what would 
happen if the worst element in the black popula- 
tion of this seaport * were to get out of hand and 
ridicule and defy the black troops ; or, worst con- 
tingency of all, what would happen if the black 
troops joined the looters, and the whole negro 
population threw off its yoke of subjection. 

Even the most unimaginative among us heard 
with unfeigned anxiety that inmates of the asylum 
had broken away, that in one instance coming 
under my own notice, a lunatic had invaded a 
party camped in the garden, and violently seized a 
man by the throat, only to relax his hold with as 
little reason, and that in another case several 
blacks came up threateningly and exclaimed, 
" Black man as good as white man now ! " only to 
be cowed into submission by a white man's resolute 
and determined will. The fact that only nine 
lunatics, out of a total of 1000, escaped, [is quite 
immaterial to the issue. The nine included a man 
named Senior, one of the most violent of the 

* Old Colonials warned me, long before I set foot in Jamaica, to 
base no judgment of the negro race upon any uncouth specimens I 
might chance to meet in Kingston. The depraved idler and offender 
is to be found in the capital alone. Nowhere else can he secure foot- 
hold on the island. 

236 




CONSTANT SPUING HOTEL 
Showing the West Tower, cracked in the earthquake, and now entirely reconstructed. 




Path Phot. 
I'OHT KOYAL STHEKT, KINGSTON 



F.bentser Cart 



AMERICAN AID 

whole tribe at the asylum, and their uncontrolled 
presence in the streets instantly produced the 
impression an impression that would be shared 
by any one placed in like circumstances that the 
whole of the unhappy people were free. 

Certainly the earthquake was responsible for an 
outbreak within the asylum itself, that threatened 
to be the death of the matron-superintendent. 
The women in their mad fury set upon her, 
and there was a moment when it was feared 
that the black staff might leave their chief to 
her fate in order to save themselves Dr. D. J. 
Williams, for whom the lunatics entertain a child- 
like faith and respect that is no less wonderful 
than pathetic, came upon the scene at this timely 
moment, and almost unaided quelled the disturb- 
ance 

Nor were the grossest acts of robbery absent 
from the streets. Shops were looted wholesale 
an entire establishment in less than ten minutes. 
Elsewhere a Chinaman, buried in debris to his 
neck, was left to his lingering fate while his store 
was ransacked before his eyes. 

The people had either lost all sense of right 
or believed the ridiculous story they told each 
other, that the Governor had given them leave to 
take away anything they fancied in any shop fallen 
by the earthquake. 

Near the corner of King Street and Harbour 
Street on the early morning of Tuesday, two of 
the black ruffians who can maintain a foothold on 
the island by keeping to Kingston alone, were 
found in the heat of an angry quarrel as to the 
possessions of a white lady, whose body, ap- 
parently that of an American tourist, lay at their 
feet. There were rings on the lady's fingers, 
bangles on her wrist, and a gold chain encircled 

237 



CRUISE OP THE PORT KINGSTON 

her neck as profoundly pathetic a picture in this 
city of ruin as any the sun shone on. 

I mention these incidents to show that the days 
following the earthquake were full of dread anxiety, 
that the sense of grave apprehension was wide- 
spread among the white population, and that some 
display of the white man's strength and resource 
was eagerly sought and expected. 

Many stories reached us of the strength that 
was near at hand, and almost hourly expected, 
that the Dreadnought, greatest ship of the fighting 
line of the world, had been intercepted on a 
voyage to somewhere and was now steaming to 
protect if not to save us. To me, the most reason- 
able and the most credible story was that the 
British gun-boat stationed at Bridgetown, Barbados, 
had started for Kingston, Jamaica, the moment 
she had learned of the disaster. But when would 
she come ? Hours seemed like days, and because 
the gun-boat did not accomplish three days' sail- 
ing in three hours, there was undisguised im- 
patience. 

It was inevitable that the Government should 
be accused of starving the navy, starving the 
colonies, and that we should hear that our West 
Indian possessions were practically abandoned, or 
at the mercy of any contingency that might arise. 
I fear it was in vain that I urged, without any 
brief for any party, that this isolation of the West 
Indies was not a political question, that it was the 
approved judgment of our wisest naval strategists 
that we should concentrate our fighting force on 
the sea at the point at which it could deal the first 
and deadliest blow upon any possible enemy, that 
in the Caribbean Sea we had no fears beyond our 
everlasting fears of that grim monster we could 
not see, who was bent upon disturbing the very 

238 



AMERICAN AID 

earth's crust itself, and against which no naval 
programme could provide. 

Imagine, therefore, the sense of relief to every 
one in Kingston when, that Wednesday night at 
nearly midnight, the unmistakable penetrating 
search-light of a warship flashed over the town 
from a point outside the channel. It wanted no 
telling, it was known to every one, white, coloured 
and black, and that night people everywhere, in 
their own gardens or in the parks, and seated or 
lying amid the ddbris, slept with that refreshing 
sense of peace and security which authority backed 
by inherent strength can alone convey. 

But, dare I confess it ? A fresh grievance arose 
in the fact that tile ship was not British. Let me 
pass this over with the contempt that is due to the 
pitiful parochial minds that gave it utterance. An 
hour or two later the ship of war which turned 
out to be the United States torpedo destroyer 
Whippk, was abreast of us, and no sooner had she 
dropped anchor, than two of her officers, whom I 
later came to know as Dr. Ames and Lieutenant- 
Commander Anderson, came over to us, and in 
undisguised impatience at every moment's delay 
asked to be conducted to the master of the ship. 

I was present throughout the interview between 
the three men. The officers asked where they 
could find the Governor, as the^ wished to see 
him without an instant's delay. The Captain was 
as hazy as any of us as to where the Governor 
might be found at that hour of the night, and 
the "let me think" was understood to be disin- 
clination to say definitely, or a preliminary to 
evasion. The officers did not disguise their 
annoyance, and would not brook a moment's 
delay. 

" Surely, gentlemen," said one of them, " some 

239 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

one in the whole ship's company can conduct us to 
the Governor, right here and now." 

In that way officers and captains developed 
distrust on one side and annoyance on the other, 
when none was strictly justified on either side. 
Happily it ended abruptly in the Captain's con- 
ducting the officers ashore, where they met Deputy 
Inspector-General Wedderburn, the chief of 
police in Kingston city not, be it noted, the chief 
constabulary official of the whole island, as that 
post is held by Major Kershaw, an officer with 
a distinguished record in a like capacity (if I 
remember rightly) in Cyprus. 

The Governor was at his home, some miles out- 
side the town, and not then visible. From Mr. 
Wedderburn, however, they obtained the welcome 
due to their position and mission. The officers 
came back to our ship, and Captain Parsons 
returned with them to their vessel and readily 
moved their ship to a more convenient and safer 
anchorage, so that the breezy cross purposes of 
the earlier interview were happily ended. 

Next morning the two warships Missouri and 
Indiana came in sight, steaming at what seemed 
(having regard to their deep draught) a dan- 
gerous speed up a channel that could no longer 
be trusted, after the upheaval of an earthquake. 
But it was an urgent mission full of the grim 
possibilities of saving broken and wrecked lives 
lying under heaps of ruins, and the Admiral was 
obviously prepared to take risks. It was between 
8 and 9 A.M. when the two ships in line made that 
grand sweep that leads up to the immediate front 
of Kingston ; a glorious morning, a blue sky over- 
head, with not so much as a speck of white cloud 
to break the horizon ; such a morning and such a 
scene as the tropics and the blue waters and green 

240 




5 8 




AMERICAN AID 

slopes of Jamaica can alone produce. The flags of 
both ships were flying at half-mast. 

Truly a spectacle in its accumulated grandeur, 
sorrow and might, and in its mission of mercy and 
love of humanity I can never again hope to realise ! 
I envy no man who, in the face of an entire city 
lying in ruins, could witness unmoved to the 
depths of his heart the approach of those ships 
that morning. 

Men were immediately landed, armed and ready 
for any emergency with which the Governor might 
have to deal, while two officers the flag lieutenant 
and the Admiral's secretary were entrusted with 
the duty of interviewing the authorities and 
acquainting the Governor of what had been done, 
and in the name of the Admiral and the whole of the 
American people placing the two ships of war, with 
all their men, surgeons, sick-bay men, medical 
supplies and comforts entirely at his disposal. 

The officers, on landing, were directed to the 
temporary headquarters of the Government, where 
the Colonial Secretary was in charge. 

" What can I do for you, gentlemen ? " was the 
question addressed to the American officers. 

Under the circumstances the inquiry bore a sug- 
gestion of grotesque humour of which I am dis- 
posed to judge the speaker had only a feeble notion. 

" It would not seem to be a question of what 
you can do for us," was the naval officer's reply ; 
" it is what can we do for you ? " 

" Have it so." 

The American officers then explained their 
authority, their mission and their resources. They 
came in response to an appeal of the Governor of 
Jamaica to the provisional Governor of Cuba 
which had reached him over the cable in these 
terms : 

241 Q 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

(Dated Wednesday, January 16, 1907.) 

"Kindly send immediately bandages, lint and 
wool for those injured by the earthquake, at cost 
of Colony." 

A copy of this telegram had been sent by 
Governor Magoon to the Commander-in-Chief, 
TJ.S. Atlantic fleet, asking him at the same time 
to respond if possible to the call of the Governor 
of Jamaica. 

" That is why we are here." 

Meanwhile the American navy men, apprehend- 
ing no difficulty or " incident," and impatient at 
any waste of precious moments in the exchange 
of idle diplomatic courtesies, while lives were 
slipping away in the gloom, were already at work. 

Surgeon McDowell, with six other skilled officers, 
was superintending the landing of the medical 
stores which had been so urgently sought. 
Tents, of which I subsequently learned there was 
only a limited supply, were brought ashore and 
erected in the Parade Gardens to shelter some of the 
homeless people. 

Another detachment of the navy men readily 
lent themselves to the task of pulling down dan- 
gerous walls that threatened a further destruction 
of life. Looting was arrested in cases that came 
under the notice of the men as they worked in the 
streets in the heat of a tropical sun. 

But most important of all, while natives lingered 
in impotent idleness, the eager, plucky, adventure- 
loving seamen, set to work to investigate some of 
the ruins that lay on every hand. From beneath 
the debris of the Sailors' Home, four bodies were 
soon brought to light. Death had come to these 
victims with merciful speed ; already the remains 
were a noisome offence. A fire of broken timbers 

242 




AMERICAN' BLUE-JACKETS TO THE RESCUE 

" While natives lingered in impotent idleness, the eager . . . seamen . . . brought 

four bodies to light . t . Already the remains wore a noisome offence. A fire . . . 

was quickly made." (See pp. 242-3.) 



AMERICAN AID 

was quickly made, and the disfigured bodies, that 
defied all identification, were cast into the flames 
without an instant's delay. 

The American surgeons established their tem- 
porary hospital at Winchester Park, and were soon 
busily engaged alleviating the sufferings of the 
people, and to some extent easing the pressure of 
work upon their resident professional brethren. 

These acts of charity and humanity were ad- 
vancing, while at Washington official authority and 
sanction were pushed forward with equal celerity. 

The cable of Sir Alexander Svvettenham to the 
Governor of Cuba was dated the 16th. On that 
same date Admiral Evans detached a portion of 
his squadron for immediate duty, and to Rear- 
Admiral Davis was delegated the task of relieving 
the fallen fortunes of Kingston. 

The Whipple was instantly despatched, and the 
Missouii and Indiana were already in Kingston 
Harbour on the morning of the 17th, when the 
Commander-in-Chief of the U.S. Fleet in Cuban 
waters received from the Navy department at 
Washington the authorisation he had anticipated : 

(Dated January 17, 1907.) 

" //* in your judgment conditions require issuing 
scores to Kingston earthquake sufferers, you are 
authorised to do so." 

An Act of Congress was drawn up and approved 
the next day. It was entitled " An Act for the 
relief of the Citizens of the Island of Jamaica," and 
it authorised the President of the United States 
"to use and distribute among the suffering and 
destitute people of the Island of Jamaica such 
provisions, clothing, medicines and other necessary 
articles belonging to the subsistence and other 

243 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

stores of the naval establishment as may be neces- 
sary for the purpose of succouring the people who 
are in peril and threatened with starvation on the 
same island in consequence of the recent earthquake 
and attendant conflagration." 

While all this speed was being exercised on our 
behalf, what were we doing in the earthquake city 
itself ? Stumbling over nice points of international 
etiquette ? as I have seen stated ; asking ourselves 
if some, under the circumstances, ridiculous fusty 
old Colonial Office Regulation No 209 had been 
quite nicely and properly observed ? as I have seen 
gravely urged , or were we standing in a state of 
coma under some paralysing influence, awe-stricken 
and afraid, though the city contained Englishmen, 
like Sir Alfred Jones, to name only one of a dozen 
or more, of the highest organising experience and 
power ? Let us see. 

Relief for the stricken people came also with 
startling promptitude, from quarters that have re- 
ceived but scant acknowledgment The day after 
the earthquake, when suddenly provision had to be 
made for thousands of persons in hospital and camp, 
there sailed from Santiago, Cuba, the steamer Oteri, 
at the order of the International Brotherhood 
League of California. The ship was laden with 
food-stuffs, and their representative, Mr. W. R. 
Turner, tendered these supplies to the people in 
the name of the League, while on his own behalf 
he offered his personal services in any capacity that 
would suggest itself. The Oteri discharged her 
welcome cargo and cleared the port, but came back 
again to Kingston with further shipments of coffee 
and other necessaries, such as the doctors at the 
hospital had deemed to be most urgently required. 

The guests at the superb Hotel Titchfield 
Americans all promptly organised a relief com- 

244 




CENTRAL PARK, 6 A.M. THE MORNING AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE 




Koth Photos by If. S. Cantpbtll 

FAMILIES ENCAMPED IN THE GARDENS OF THEIR WRECKED 
HOMES, VICTORIA AVENUE, KINGSTON 



AMERICAN AID 

mittee, and subscribed 500. The ladies did more 
they sat up all night in the charitable and sym- 
pathetic labour of making bandages, despatching 
to the stricken city these and all other supplies that 
money could secure at that moment in shop or 
store in Port Antonio. Nor were the employes 
in the Hotel less unmindful of the needs of the 
suffering people, sparing neither savings nor service 
in the common cause. 

The work that was done at the Government 
hospital during these days of stress and trial, relieved 
as it was at all points by the efforts I have de- 
scribed, outstrips all feeble words of praise and 
appreciation. And yet, despite all the energy and 
self-sacrificing efforts of Dr. J. Errington Ker and 
the medical staff that was called to his aid, no city 
ever presented for days after the great happening 
so ample a field of activity. 

At 3.30 on the fateful afternoon the inmates of 
the general hospital at Kingston numbered 202, a 
normal figure. By five o'clock the roll of patients 
had jumped almost at a bound to 700 or 800, all 
the additions being composed of serious and fatal 
injury cases of all classes. I am persuaded that 
none but those who were either present at the time 
or have had actual experience on the field of battle, 
can presume to appreciate the scene of carnage 
that presented itself, or form any idea of the 
qualities required to cope with the difficulties that 
revealed themselves at every turn. 

Anaesthetics were buried in the upheaval with all 
the surgical instruments remaining in the operating 
theatre ; but willing hands unearthed these, and 
thereafter there was a sufficient supply of chloro- 
form ether is seldom used in Jamaica, as it does 
not keep well. 

. For at least two days Dr. Ker had no informa- 

245 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

tion as to what had befallen outside localities. 
Kingston itself was a measureless scene of disaster 
and still greater danger. With no certainty at 
first of a full and reliable water supply, the 
imminence of rain, and many thousands of people 
living practically in the open, on the race course, 
the Quebec lands, the Parade Gardens, &c., under 
conditions predisposing them to disease, the Super- 
intending Medical Officer and those associated with 
him deemed it not improbable that earthquake 
and fire would give place to an epidemic, and 
that plague, typhoid, or dysentery would fill up 
Jamaica's cup of bitterness to running over. 

Dr. C. W. M. Castle, the Senior Medical Officer, 
with the staff Dr. J. A. Allwood, Dr. G. H. K. 
Ross, and Dr. F. R. Evans was already in active 
operation, while Dr. C. R. Edwards, of Gordon 
Town, who happened to be under treatment at the 
hospital at the time, very pluckily got up and faced 
the work. Other help was urgently needed, and 
Dr. Ker summoned from the country districts for 
duty at the hospital those members of the Govern- 
ment Medical Service who could be spared from 
their local stations, and to whom actual injury had 
not incapacitated from work. Dr. W, D. Neish 
hastened to the scene of disaster from Spanish 
Town, Dr. C. A. H. Thomson from Falmouth, 
Dr. A. W. Thomson from Chapelton, Dr. R. S. 
Turton from Stony Hill, Dr. W. G. Farquhar- 
son from Lucea, Dr. G. P. Campbell from St. 
Thomas, and Dr. F. A. Ritchie from Trelawney. 

Private medical practitioners like Dr. C. T. 
Dewar of Trelawney, Dr. G. W. Thomson of 
Montego Bay, and Dr. Vine of Falmouth were 
also among the helpers ; as were those of Kingston 
itself Dr. M. Grabham, Dr. F. L. Myers, and 
Dr. A. A. Ayton as soon as the necessities of 

246 



AMERICAN AID 

their individual patients and their own homes per- 
mitted. 

Nor must I omit from this roll of honour the 
name of Mr. M. C. Solomon, who was attached to 
the Public Hospital immediately after the calamity, 
acting, I judged, as Dr. Ker's right hand in a 
multitude of administrative duties that suddenly 
arose in these strenuous, nerve-racking days. 

Happily, well-grounded fears for the future were 
not realised. The rain did not fall, and if Kingston 
escaped an epidemic, the country, as a whole, 
suffered for months after the earthquake the most 
terrible loss from drought within living memory. 
But to the Medical Department, and in particular 
to Dr. J. Erringt&n Ker, the island owes the most 
profound gratitude, not merely for the work of 
tireless days and nights, but for timely preparation 
for a visitation of sickness, to which, had it once 
established itself in our midst, Jamaican history 
could have shown no like chastening. 



247 



XXXIV 
ACCEPTED AND REFUSED 

BY some unhappy accident or chance, of which I 
cannot pretend to offer the smallest explanation 
or excuse, the aid particularly the medical and 
surgical aid offered by the American man-of- 
war's men, with sailor-like heart and impatience 
over all form and ceremony, was received with the 
landsman's chilling hauteur. The authorities ap- 
peared at the same time to accept without offence 
a like offer at the hands of Dr. Christensen, who 
came to Kingston in hot haste at the bidding of 
tLe Governor of the Danish West Indian Island 
of St. Thomas, on the same humanitarian mission. 
Thus was in process of formation an " incident " 
which, with all its involutions, cross purposes, and 
unsettled policy, has no historical parallel. 

Trouble arose at the Penitentiary, where some 
hundreds of the most intractable men on the island 
were undergoing various terms of imprisonment. 
The earthquake had played havoc with part of the 
building, and at least two prisoners were killed by 
the falling bricks, one victim, by the irony of fate, 
at the very moment he first entered the prison. 

A spirit of alarm and unrest seized the men at 
the moment of the upheaval. By Thursday morn- 
ing they were at large in the compound of the jail, 
and could not be got back to their cells. Mr. 

248 





Photos lent to the Author 

THE OFFICIAL RESIDENCE OF DR. SHACKLETON IN THE ASYLUM 
GROUNDS, K INGST( >N 

(1) Before and (2) after the earthquake. 



ACCEPTED AND REFUSED 

Douglas, the superintendent, was now sufficiently 
alarmed to see that a serious conflict of authority 
was sooner or later inevitable, and that if it was 
war, his meagre staff must be annihilated. Word 
was immediately despatched to Major Kershaw 
(Inspector-General of Police and Inspector-General 
of Prisons and Reformatories two inspector- 
generalships which should never be held by one 
and the same person *) at the Government Head- 
quarters, where the Colonial Secretary (the Hon. 
Hugh Clarence Bourne) was acting chief. 

These officials can alone say if this urgent appeal 
for help from the Penitentiary was not brought to 
the notice of the Governor without delay. 1 know 
the Governor was not present at the moment, but 
he was constantly visible riding about the city. As 
I saw him he was a proper object of respect and 
admiration, soldier- like and calm, with not a trace 
of the nervous tension of which by stupid, unkind 
friends he was later accused. Indeed, no parade- 
ground ever presented a more wholesome spectacle 
of dignified cleanliness, the large, immaculate white 
gauntlets giving a finishing touch to an altogether 
striking and impressive picture. 

Unhappily, few of his subordinate officers, face- 
tiously described as " my insubordinates," realised 
his standard of efficiency in this period of trial. 
Yet no body of Government officials, so far as I 
was enabled to judge, ever worked more zealously 
in a moment of crisis. Their efforts were rewarded 
in only too many instances by contemptuous criti- 
cism and a public castigation that must have gone 
far to rob authority of its influence, prestige, and 
power. The dignity of the administrator was 

* An officer who is responsible for the prosecution ought not in all 
fairness to be the officer responsible for the administration of the sen. 
tence. 

249 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

surely wanting when the Governor dismounted to 
show the native labourer how to play the hose-pipe 
on smouldering debris! While absurdly trifling 
details were obtaining attention, large public issues, 
full of vital import, were going awry for want of 
timely grasp. 

It would be interesting to know how far these 
unfortunate differences were made known to the 
authorities at home. Any member of the Govern- 
ment service has the right of appeal to His 
Majesty's Secretary of State for the Colonies in 
London. Such appeal would be despatched to 
Lord Elgin through the medium of Sir Alexander 
Swettenham, who would be bound to transmit it 
to the proper quarter. And though the Governor 
would read the accusation laid to his charge it 
would be approved custom on his part to make no 
counter accusation, explanation, or defence until 
the Secretary of State asked for such explanation 
or defence.* 

Of alarm, " official alarm," if I may so describe 
it, I do not think there was any. What if the 
prisoners at the Penitentiary did break away ? 
"Was not St. Paul released by an earthquake? 

* That such appeal was made to Lord Elgin, in one instance, may 
be assumed from an announcement in the Gleaner, July 8, 1907, as 
follows : 

"UNDESERVED CENSURE. Late Governor's Withdrawal. A large 
number of our Kingston readers are aware that a senior Inspector 
of Police from a country parish who was on duty in Kingston imme- 
diately after the earthquake, was very severely and publicly repri- 
manded by our late Governor for some supposed neglect of duty, 
which it subsequently transpired the police officer in question was not 
responsible for. The Inspector, after failing to obtain a withdrawal 
of the censure in Jamaica, petitioned the Secretary of State for the 
Colonies. The late Governor, in forwarding the Inspector's petition, 
withdrew the reprimand and expressed his regret, stating that the 
whole affair was due to a misunderstanding of the circumstances. 
We understand that Lord Elgin caused the police inspector to be 
informed that in view of the late Governor's withdrawal of the cen^ 
sure, there was no need for further consideration of the matter." 

250 



ANGLO-AMERICAN HERALD. 



CITY OF KINGSTON 

WRECKED BY EARTHQUAKE 

ON MONDAY 14TH. 



< RURIT ONE T" "'JMM HUE" ! HlliO 
BTfAUINC WAILS US' Jl 




mMlDErii UtNCHUlS HMMffi T 
DEAD MANT BODIES CREATED. 
DEBkn B1IC REMS.iO. 

* >' ^.""'"'"^''rir^i^ K?5^ ""^reis 

hwieu wm- n ti "''' 5 J 'i''',;''" s ;' S?-'^?:*""'^ 

^ ^i . . i: r^---Hssessa 

I"::-:. '.- - 

r;--.: r -- 



r?^i^^^^^- 

: T .. .'5C-i5ixst ! S' -" 



nn~"TV- ~ -' v.;r; ^.-^2 "" 

ftS TH^ 

a^ -v t .i^ 




^i\ Wjis;^ W^' 
I i ^^*i^-^"^^-- 

\^Sf^^-^ fet-t*<?^ 

\&&& ~* "-ps? 5 ^ 




MEMENTOES OF THE EARTHQUAKE 

Men as well as machinery were lost in the upheaval, but despite every difficulty the 
newspapers, with splendid courage and enterprise, soon resumed regular publication 
'ihe Gleaner (reduced in size) on Friday the 18th, and the Jamaica Daily Tele- 
graph (in its familiar form) on Tuesday the 22nd. Copies of both journals 
were eagerly bought, and the roll of death was anxiously scanned. In the tension 
and confusion of a wrecked city no one knew who had survived or who had fallen. 



ACCEPTED AND REFUSED 

Then there was no reason why the prisoners at 
the Kingston Penitentiary should not be released 
by the same agency if they had attained a similar 
degree of sanctity 1 " It was a feeble witticism, 
but it would serve. 

With those, however in close quarters with the 
contingency in the prison there was real stress and 
anxiety, and the Admiral was asked for an armed 
party to cope with an imminent peril. The In- 
diana moved from her anchorage to a point higher 
up the stream at which the prison parade ground 
might be overlooked, and an armed party of 
seventy-three men under Lieut. Sticht, with 
Ensign Abbott and Midshipmen Page and Mann, 
was landed for this special duty. No conflict 
occurred, this display of authority quelled the 
ugly mood of the mutinous men at once, and very 
soon afterwards every prisoner was back in his cell 
and under lock and key. 

That night I went over to Admiral Davis. Not 
being known to the Admiral, I introduced myself 
as one who had the honour and pleasure of being 
personally known to his brave and distinguished 
chief. 1 was asked to join him at table, but my 
own clothes had become an offence by contact 
with the odours of the unburied and burning dead, 
and I made my excuses. I paced the deck in the 
companionship of one of his officers, and for the 
first time learned how grievously the relations of 
Governor and Admiral had gone awry, and how 
every charitable impulse of the American men-of- 
war's men had been checked. 

I saw the Admiral a few minutes later in his 
cabin, and 1 found in him a man as unlike what 
Englishmen think is typical of American bounce 
as anything I can well imagine. Slight in build, 
with middle age behind him; gentle, suave and 

2,51 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

almost courtly in manner, a man, as I read the 
face, of generous instincts, keen intelligence, pene- 
tration, decision, and, I should judge, conciliatory 
to a degree ; all features of the best type of fight- 
ing dog that any navy can produce. 

He told me how they had come away from 
Guantanamo, Cuba, in hot haste to render succour 
to a people stricken in grief under circumstances 
already detailed,. He believed his men had thought 
of everything that could by any imagination be 
required, camps for the people to sleep under in the 
parks alone excepted. How they had forgotten 
tents, he could not tell, except, as he playfully 
added, by remembering everything else. 

" I have been surprised and, with my officers, I 
have been deeply hurt that an offer of help should 
have been declined while the need was so obvious. 
I have met the Governor, and I think Sir Alexander 
Swettenham a man of undoubted intelligence and 
force of character. My only explanation is that 
he is acting on a misconception of the require- 
ments of the situation, from want of actual know- 
ledge of many facts as they have reached me as 
within the personal observation of certain of the 
most trusted officers of my ships. Can you offer 
any other explanation ? " he concluded. 

" To see the other side of any question you must 
assume the other man's point of view," I suggested. 
" Sir Alexander Swettenham has been here some 
time, and as a result of careful and judicious 
administration of its affairs has raised the finances 
of the island from a state of yearly deficit to one of 
healthy balance, when suddenly, down comes a 
crisis of this kind to sweep away every available 
surplus, and the labour of years. In England no 
less than in America I fear we do not ask, ' Why 
has a man not succeeded ? ' but * Has he succeeded ?' 

252 







HOLY TRINITY ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH, 
DUKE STREET, KINGSTON 




Roth Photos by If. S. Campbell 
THE OLD CALABAR BAPTIST CHAPEL, EAST QUEEN STREET, KINGSTON 

Tlio oldest cliiiiu'I in the district. 



ACCEPTED AND REFUSED 

earthquake or no earthquake, such a happening 
being taken as part of the luck or ill luck of the 
man. We will not blame the Governor for the 
earthquake, but we may act as if we did, I 
suggest to you, therefore, that the Governor is 
bitterly jealous of any interference from any 
quarter whatever. He wants to see this thing 
through himself." 

* But is a crisis like this a one-man show ? " asked 
the admiral " And a dangerous development was 
nipped in the bud by rny men this morning by 
arresting a mutiny at the Penitentiary Further, 
the Governor declares there is no looting, yet my 
officers give me an entirely contrary account, not 
the mer* looting of shops and factories, but jewel- 
lery from houses and from the dead. I know they 
saved the jewellery of some poor people themselves 
as they passed through the streets on their return 
to the ship.'* 

" Did the offer of aid involve any obligation ? " I 
asked. 

" None whatever. It was our privilege and our 
opportunity to be nearest at hand, and we deemed 
it would have been less than our duty to our 
common humanity to hesitate in coming here with 
every available necessary and supply for a city 
stricken by sorrow and death. My men were 
available for work, eager and ready to help, to pull 
down walls or build them up, to rescue the dead 
and dying and still living people from their tombs, 
to clear the streets of debris that the wounded 
might be carried to hospital with the least pain and 
suffering, at worst to allow the funeral cart to pass 
through, and establish by example the sense of 
authority which a body of navy men could 
give." 

" But would not the Governor accept the help of 

253 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

your surgeons and their appliances, medical sup- 
plies, anaesthetics, &c. ? " I asked. 

" In the opinion of the Governor the hospital is 
more than abreast of all its work. While, there- 
fore, my offer of help has been declined, some of 
my medical staff have undoubtedly been working 
at the hospital on their own personal responsibility, 
where supplies and skilled aid were urgently required. 
My explanation, therefore, remains that facts have 
been withheld from the Governor, or that he does 
not apprehend the situation. I am to see him 
to-morrow morning, but I am not hopeful. In 
any event, our help is every hour of less value. I 
shall, however, be pleased to tell you the result, if 
you come over to the ship after 10AM. to-morrow. 
You are most welcome also to any aid I can offer 
you in getting your cables on the wires, but, 
hemmed in by these high mountains, our * wire- 
less ' is not of much service, I. am sorry , I wish I 
could render you more immediate help." 

That was the end of our public conversation, and 
a few minutes later I was on my way back over 
the sullen waters to the Port Kingston. 

I was bitterly disappointed at what I judged would 
be regarded as an affront to the whole American 
people, regarding what was so entirely well meant ; 
and in my cabled message I endeavoured to show 
that a hopeless misconception had arisen, and that 
the Governor had declined what would have re- 
dounded to his honour to have accepted with 
gratitude and esteem. 



254. 



XXXV 

FAMOUS LETTERS 

THAT night, after I had left the Missouri, Admiral 
Davis despatched the following letter to the 
Governor* : 

"United States of America ship of war Missouri? 
Kingston, January 17. 

" M Y DEAR GOVERNOR, 

" I beg that you will accept my apology for 
the mistake in the salute this afternoon. My 
orders were misunderstood, and the disregard of 
your wishes was due to mistake in transmission of 
orders forward. I trust that this apparent disregard 
of your wishes may be overlooked. 

" I landed working parties from both ships (of 
war) 2 on the shore to-day to aid in ? wrecking, 
and in clearing away the ruins in the streets and 
buildings. I propose to land parties to-morrow 
morning for the same purpose unless you expressly 
desire me not to do so. I think there is a great 
deal that can be done in the way of assistance to 
private individuals without interfering with the 
forces of yourself and the Government officials. 

* Reprinted from the Parliamentary White Paper. The following 
variations, however, appear in the letter as given above to that pub- 
lished in the Jamaica Dady Telegraph, January 22, 1907 : 

(1) U.S.S. " Missouri" (not American ship of war). 

(2) (of war) omitted. 

255 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

My only object in being here is to render such 
assistance as I can. I trust that you will justify 
me in the matter in cause of common humanity. 

" I had a patrol of six men on shore to-day to 
guard and secure the archives of the United States 
Consul, 3 together with a working party of ten men 
to clear away wreckage. This party, after the 
work at the Consulate was done, assisted the 
genera] working party in the work in the streets, 
and caught thieves, and recovered from them a 
safe belonging to a jewel 4 store value about 
5000 dols. From this I judge that the police 
surveillance of the city is not adequate as to pro- 
tection of private property. 

" Actuated by the same motive, namely, that of 
common humanity, I shall direct the medical 
officers of my squadron to make such efforts as 
lie in their power to ai 1 outlying cases of distress, 
which would not perhaps corne under the observa- 
tion and treatment of your medical officers. 

" I shall have the pleasure of meeting you at the 
hour appointed, namely, 10, at Headquarters 
House, and I trust that you will approve of my 
action in these matters. 5 

" I am, with high respect, 

" Your obedient servant 

" (Signed) C. H. DAVIS, 
"Rear Admiral U.S. Navy Commanding 
Detached Squadron.'' 

Some hours later it was then Friday morning 
I sought the counsel and advice of Sir Alfred 
Jones. 

" Will you not yourself make a visit to the 

(3) Consulate. 

4) Milke Bros, jewellery store. 
The remainder omitted. 

256 



FAMOUS LETTERS 

American Admiral, Sir Alfred," I urged, "and 
learn for yourself from Admiral Davis's own lips 
the offer he made and the refusal with which it 
was met ; not merely to the offer of armed troops, 
but every offer of surgical assistance, medical sup- 
plies, and everything the mind of a charitable 
people could suggest ? " 

" How dare I ? " asked Sir Alfred. " I am only 
a private individual, like yourself. How can I 
venture to step into a controversy between two 
strong-willed men, each with an entire nation 
behind him ? I cannot foresee the harm I might 
do." 

" Harm ! " I said. " What harm can you do in 
knowing exactly what the Americans have done, 
what men and supplies they brought at an hour's 
notice, hearing in what way the offer was sought 
and made, and in what manner it was received and 
refused ? " 

" Believe me, I am grateful for the prompting," 
was Sir Alfred's reply, " but you must not ask 
me to do anything that would weaken the hands 
of the Governor when his authority wants all the 
backing it can obtain." 

" Then let the Admiral himself do all the talk- 
ing ; meet him, and hear for yourself something 
besides the Governor's own story, because you are 
sure to be taxed on all these points on our return." 

" No ! no 1 ! no ! ! ! " each with more tone and 
less conviction. 

And yet I was more than ever satisfied that the 
real Sir Alfred Jones was anxious beyond all things 
to reconcile the two men. 

" Sir Alfred," I persisted, " if I know anything 
about what is going on in the outsid^world, from 
which we have been practically isolated for days, 
this is to you the opportunity of a lifetime. You 

257 R 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

are in this broken-down, distracted city of sorrow 
and death, not merely the first merchant, but the 
largest shipowner in the world, and these people 
have a particular and special financial claim upon 
you. For one whole hour you can be in the minds 
of two great peoples in fact, the peoples of the 
world the greatest Englishman alive. Let me 
take a boat and announce to the Admiral your 
coming. If your visit were at this moment of 
strain impossible, or difficult, or even inconvenient, 
I would know in an instant ; but I am as sure of it 
as I am alive that you will be received by Admiral 
Davis with honour and distinction. I am vain 
enough to want to arrange an historic conference. 
I want to see, in this moment of tragedy, the meet- 
ing of the only two men in the whole island who 
really matter." 

" I cannot ! I must not. My place now is that 
of director of this line of steamers, and my business 
is to get this ship to sea in fulfilment of a binding 
contract." 

" I know if you talk with the Admiral for four 
minutes you won't let this ship go to sea to-day, 
contract or no contract." 

But it was no use contesting, as it seemed to 
me, with a whole shipful of active and persistent 
advisers all ranged against my view, prompting Sir 
Alfred Jones to do no act of venturesome initia- 
tive that might entail the displeasure of the 
Governor and all the satellites of that official sun. 
And so, bitterly disappointed and a good deal 
broken in spirit, I relinquished the task of bringing 
two large-hearted men of action together. 

That same day the Governor's reply* reached 
the hands of the Admiral. It read as follows : 



* This is the letter as given by the Governor in response to an 
inquiry from Lord Elgin. There are changes in the text comparing 

258 





GY 



An interesting: relic of the earth- 
([iiake the permit written on the 
back of a crumpled breakfast menu 
card the day after the earthquake, 
enabling Lady Dudley, at the in- 
stanceof Sir Alfred .Iones,K.C.M.f;., 
to secure from the ruins of the 
Myrtle Bank Hotel meat extract 
and wine to succour the suffering 1 
and dying- people. As no one knew 
who still lived, Sir Alfred's nephew, 
Mr. Pictor Hughes-Jones, has taken 
the precaution of adding at the 
foot other names of those next in 
authority. 



FAMOUS LETTERS 

January 18, 2 P.M. 1 

" DEAR ADMIRAL DA vis, 2 

" I thank you very much for your kind 
letter of the 17th (delivered to me this morning), 
for your kind call, and for all the assistance you 
have given, and have offered 3 us. 

" While 1 most fully and heartily appreciate 
your very generous offer of assistance, I feel that 
it is my duty to ask you to re-embark your work- 
ing party, and all parties which your kindness has 
prompted you to land. 

" If, in consideration of the American Vice- 
Consul's assiduous attention to his family at his 
country house, the American Consulate may need 
guarding in your cfpinion (he was present, and it 
was unguarded one hour ago), 1 have no objection 
to your detailing a force for the sole purpose of 
guarding it, but that party must not have firearms 
or anything more offensive than clubs or staves. 4 

" I find your working party this morning helping 
a tradesman 5 to clean his shop 6 ; the tradesman 7 
is delighted to get valuable 8 work done without 
cost to himself, and if Your Excellency were to 
remain long enough, I am sure that almost the 
whole of the private owners would be glad of the 
Navy to save them from expense. 

the version given in the Parliamentary White Paper (published in 
April) with the version published in the Jamaica Daily Telegraph 
(published January 22) as follows : 

(1) Head Quarters House, Kingston. January 18, 1907. (No state- 
ment of time). 

(2) Rear Admiral Davis. 

(3) Have offered to give us. 

(4) for their function is omitted. 

(5) Helping Mr. Crosswell instead of " a tradesman." 

(6) store instead of "shop." 

(7) Mr. Crosswell is 

(8) get his work. Delighted (that his) work (/*) done without cost, 
&c. The words in italics and in brackets being apparently omitted 
by the writer. 

259 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

" It is no longer any question of humanity ; all 
the dead died days ago, and the work of giving 
them burial is merely one of convenience. 

" I should be glad to accept delivery of the safe 
which the alleged (thieves ?) 9 were in possession of 
from the jeweller's 10 shop. The American Con- 
sular Agent n has no knowledge of it ; the shop 12 
is close to a sentry post, and the officer in charge 
of post professes profound ignorance of the incident, 
but there is still on the premises a large safe 
which has been opened by the fire, and also by 
some other (sic). 13 

" I believe police surveillance of no city is ade- 
quate to protect private property. I may remind 
Your Excellency that not long ago it was discovered 
that thieves had lodged, 14 and pillaged the town 15 
house of a New York millionaire during 16 absence 
of owner 17 for the summer. But this fact would 
not have justified a British Admiral in landing an 
armed party to assist the New York Police. 18 

J. A. SWETTENHAM." 



The same day Friday the Governor held a 
special court at the Penitentiary for the trial of 
the five ringleaders in the recent mutiny. It 
would be interesting to know admittedly only as 
a subject of psychological speculation whether the 
Governor's letter to the Admiral requiring the 

(9) The brackets and the query mark to thieves do not appear. 

(10) from Milke's store. 

(11) American Vice -Consul. 

(12) Store. 

(13) Opened both by fire and by other means. 

(14) Lodged in. 

(15) "Town "omitted. 

(16) During his absence. 

(17) "Of owner" omitted. 

(18) I have the honour to be, with profound gratitude and highest 
respect, your obedient servant, (signed) ALEXANDER SWETTENHAM^ 
Governor. 

200 



FAMOUS LETTERS 

immediate recall of the American navy men had 
been written at the moment of the holding of the 
Governor's Court at the Penitentiary, or whether 
it was written afterwards. The probabilities are 
that it was already written and despatched. 

At the holding of the Court a party of armed 
men belonging to the American squadron were 
stationed within the prison enclosure, and in the 
proceedings of this tribunal, it was now brought to 
the Governor's knowledge in formal testimony 
(apart from the statement contained in the Ad- 
miral's letter) that a mutiny among the prisoners 
at the Penitentiary had been arrested by the timely 
aid of the American man-of-war's men. 

To those present in court it was difficult to 
conceive that the men who were now put on their 
trial were ever "ringleaders," capable of defying 
the authority of a child ; bewildered, trembling, and 
in such an abject state of terror were they, and to 
such lamblike submission had they been reduced. 

The sentence of the Court was that the five men 
should each receive ten lashes. 

The Governor, now availing himself of the 
American aid, directed that a party of these armed 
men should convey the prisoners to the place 
where the sentence should be executed. 

A deputy officer essayed to say that the armed 
escort of the American navy men was unnecessary, 
the prisoners being under the most complete con- 
trol. 

The Governor, however, put an end to all 
further parley and sternly directed the chief of the 
prison to^do as the Court had directed. 

A detachment of the American man-of-war's 
men was thereupon immediately brought up, the 
prisoners were led away under this escort, and the 
" cat " duly administered. 

261 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

So ended the business at the Penitentiary. 

It is interesting only as one aspect of the historic 
" incident," showing that the rising was within the 
knowledge of the Governor, that he awarded the 
punishment of the offenders, and that he himself 
directed the co-operation of armed men of the 
American squadron, on Friday the 18th the date 
of his own historic letter. 






262 




A CROWDED TRAM-CAR 




Both Photos ly IV. S. Cantpbdl 
THE RUINS OF A TRAM CAR AND A TANGLE OF ELECTRIC WIRES 



XXXVI 
THE PORT KINGSTON SAILS 

LATER in the afternoon of Friday the Port King- 
ston sailed, and for days I fear I had to uphold a 
most unpopular cause. Everything that the wit 
of uncharitable rflan could suggest was urged, I 
believe, in those days, by a sjnall but eloquent 
body of politicians. Why should the American 
people run to our rescue ? and why open the flood- 
gates of their bounty when neither rescue nor 
bounty was required ? (We were now nearly 1000 
miles from the scene of danger !) But, worst of 
all, why should an American Admiral land armed 
troops on British soil ? 

" Why ! " exclaimed Mr. Jesse Collings in a 
burst of anger so unlike the genial charity of the 
real man, " they would have gone away and pro- 
claimed to the whole world that they had * saved 
the situation.' ' 

In vain did I urge views which I ventured to 
think were not only sounder policy but rising 
above all such insular smallness and conceit. Again 
and again did 1 show that if we were now happy 
in our own security, on a British ship on the high 
seas, we had been saved, whether we cared to 
recognise the fact or not, from a very real danger 
that might have overpowered us at any moment ; 
that the lunatics had broken loose and that certain 

203 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

of them had roamed the city at will; that the prisoners 
at the Penitentiary, including some of the most des- 
perate half-bred creatures of the islands, had pre- 
pared for mutiny, and had been driven back to their 
cells by this armed body of American navy men from 
the Indiana, all eyes looking on ; that the English 
population of the Island was a mere handful, a 
beggarly two per cent, at most ; that looting was 
much more widespread than we had at first appre- 
hended, that the black troops which were supposed 
to be such a bulwark of security looted the looters 
under my own eyes, and that the whole atmosphere 
was so charged with nervous apprehension, that 
anything might have occurred at any moment. 

These were the arguments I used as they con- 
cerned ourselves. But what of the lives ebbing away 
under all the frightful debris of the wrecked city ? 
what of the poor souls watching and waiting for 
release from a living tomb ? 

Three men had come out alive on the Thursday ! 
Why not thirty ? How many others had reached the 
limit of human endurance and made their hiding- 
place their grave, bitter anger filling their hearts ? 

"Why, instead of resenting the help of 100 
men," I said, " we should have welcomed these 
with joy and asked for 900 more, and as many as 
could be spared from the ships." 

Happily no one ventured to defend, as I now 
recall the incidents, the refusal to accept skilled 
aid and medical supplies at the hospital, both of 
which had been so urgently wanted. 

Lastly, I urged that whether we wanted the aid 
or not, it would have been a diplomatic courtesy 
to accept it, and so strengthen on that side of the 
Atlantic in this hour of peril and pain one more of 
the national friendships which had been the dis- 
tinguishing note of King Edward's life and reign. 

264 



THE PORT KINGSTON SAILS 

All this seems now to be self-evident and irre- 
futable. Yet these views were made to appear as 
either rank opportunism or worse, traitorous 
heresy compared with the magnificent outbursts 
of patriotic zeal about the armed soldier of a foreign 
power on British soil. Yet the American men-of- 
war's men (as Admiral Davis represented his offer 
to me at least twelve hours before the offer was 
finally and irrevocably declined) were strictly en- 
listed in the British service, and American only in 
name, had the Governor chosen to avail himself of 
the tender. If any deduction can be drawn from 
the heated controversy into which my messages to 
the press, and my convictions had drawn me, it is, 
be it said, elemental and charitable, respect for the 
views of other men, who, with like opportunities 
of forming an intelligent opinion, arrive at con- 
clusions so entirely at variance. 

In the course of the two or three days' sailing 
from Kingston to Barbados, a gentleman who was 
a stranger to most of the ship's company asked 
some half-dozen of us if we would meet in the 
saloon and determine if certain expressions of 
opinion should not be put on record statements 
that I understood should be appreciative of the 
splendid behaviour of the doctors, officers and crew 
of the Port Kingston during the recent crisis. I 
agreed to join in the movement if we were not in 
danger of taking ourselves too seriously, and on 
the condition that all controversy regarding the 
American " invasion " be ruled out of order. " On 
that question," 1 was satisfied, " the world has long 
since formed its final opinion." 

At this informal meeting Mr. Arnold-Forster 
gave out the mind of the prime mover in the 
matter. My only contribution to the wisdom of 
the round-table conference was a suggestion that, 

205 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

while we testified to the splendid way in which 
every officer of the ship, from the captain to the 
youngest steward, had sought to alleviate suffering 
under circumstances of pain and inexperience 
sufficient to unnerve the most stout-hearted, it was 
fitting to begin by recognising that what had been 
done was only rendered possible by the active 
goodwill of the owners of the ship, and that if the 
medical chest had been invaded, food supplied 
without stint, and pillow-cases and sheets torn up 
wholesale, Messrs. Elder, Dempster & Co., in the 
person of Sir Alfred Jones, would alone bear the 
cost. Mr. Henniker Heaton was entirely of this 
opinion, and proposed that I should now take in 
hand the arrangements for a meeting and draw up 
the resolutions. 

My responsibility happily was shared by Mr. 
Arnold-Forster, and the meeting arranged for the 
following day according to the following 

NOTICE. 

A meeting of passengers will be held, 
by permission of the Captain, in the 
Dining Saloon, at 11 A.M. this day (21st 
January, 1907). 

Important resolutions will be sub- 
mitted, and the attendance of all pas- 
sengers is earnestly requested. 

The actual typewritten slip is before me as I 
write, with other more or less pathetic relics of this 
period of stress and trial, and it vividly recalls the 
curious experience that day and night were rapidly 
losing their significance to many of us. We had 
been awake and *' alive " at all hours for more than 
a week, living every hour of the twenty- four. The 
resolutions were drawn up at about midnight, and 

266 



THE PORT KINGSTON SAILS 

the notice calling the meeting for "this day" must 
have been posted up long before the dawn. That 
dawn has left a vivid picture on my mind, and one 
that I shall not readily forget, though it has its 
cynically humorous tinge. 

The heat was still intense, and the cabins were 
still odorous. The ship was uncomfortably full as 
far as Barbados. Ladies slept in chairs and on 
couches and on made-up beds on the floors of the 
drawing-rooms and the library ; dozens of men took 
their night's rest under white sheets on the benches 
round the music saloon, while others were glad to 
make their beds on the floor. 

The spectacle at night was awesome enough in 
the full glare of th'e brilliant electric light. Imagine, 
therefore, the first real sense of fright I suffered, in 
a week crowded with much mental suffering, when 
I awoke that morning in the earliest gleam of day, 
and found myself stretched out in what appeared to 
be a rather showily- decorated mortuary- chapel, with 
the dead lying about in dozens, and all covered up, as 
I could faintly discern, in white sheets and evidently 
quite dead ! as I said to myself. 

1 have heard of the disagreeable sensation of 
"waking up to find yourself dead," but never 
realised so vividly the pleasurable fright of waking 
up to find myself not dead ! 

The soul of Mr. Jesse Collings was vexed that, 
in drawing up the proceedings of the passengers' 
meeting, no mention was made of the one subject 
on which he desired to speak, and which, had it 
been touched upon, would certainly have terminated 
the whole proceedings. I believe I went so far as 
to say that if he proposed a resolution, giving the 
colour of approval to conduct which on humani- 
tarian grounds alone I regarded with such horror, 

267 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

I should submit an amendment " and carry it." 
Mr. Ceilings is separated from me by many, many 
years, and I would instinctively yield the deference 
that is due from a younger to an older man, most 
of all to one of such wide knowledge and ripe 
experience, and one with whom more than a 
month's residence on ship-board, including the 
unforgettable week at Kingston, I learned to hold 
in affectionate respect and admiration. 

If, therefore, I urgently pressed for unanimity, 
it was because I was overwhelmingly convinced 
that silence was best regarding what we were least 
competent to form an entirely dispassionate judg- 
ment upon. Besides, we were in imminent danger, 
as I have said, of taking ourselves too seriously, 
and of imagining that our resolutions were of any 
more value than the opinions of any other visitors 
of equal number. 

So convinced was the Bishop of Barbados of the 
unsuitability of the whole proceedings that, despite 
all representations by me, he declined to speak to 
the resolution first set down by us to his name, 
though later, when he saw that we only " recog- 
nised" self-sacrificing effort, he readily admitted 
that all the resolutions had his approval. For the 
same reason, and perhaps for other reasons, Mr. 
Lawrence was equally firm in refusing the invitation 
of my colleague, Mr. Arnold-Forster. 

The meeting was held shortly before the ship's 
arrival at Barbados, where so many passengers left 
us for their homes on this or one or other of the 
West Indian islands. Lord Dudley made an 
admirable chairman, and skilfully negotiated the 
" rocks ahead " that came up in the form, first, of 
the seemingly innocent suggestion that the resolu- 
tions should be "amplified" for the information of 
the Colonial Office. 

268 



THE PORT KINGSTON SAILS 

" Amplification " is as blessed a word as Meso- 
potamia. Without an atom of suspicion or ulterior 
motive, even Sir Daniel Morris seemed taken by 
the word and derived a measure of the familiar and 
traditional comfort from its use. But amplification, 
at the least, meant more than the resolutions con- 
veyed, and might mean a great deal more than the 
meeting would approve. Lord Dudley, therefore, 
disposed of the idea with the satisfying enigmatical 
promise, if " amplification " were found " feasible," 
it " might " be done. 

We were soon in the danger-zone a second time, 
with some other equally unnecessary and inappro- 
priate suggestion on this occasion from the prime 
mover of the meeting ; and it was equally happily 
disposed of by Lord Dudley without any break in 
the harmony of the proceedings. The speeches 
were all good, several, particularly that of Mr. 
Lancaster, were excellent never wavering from 
the subject-matter for a single half- sentence. 

Sir Alfred Jones made his acknowledgments in 
the dining-saloon after lunch, shortly before so 
many of the passengers (including Lord and Lady 
Dudley, Mr. and Mrs. Arnold-Forster, Mr. and 
Mrs. James Lawrence, Mr. B. Howell Jones, Dr. 
Francis Watts, C.M.G., Mr. J. H. Hart, F.L.S., 
Mr. John R. Bovell, F.C.S., Dr. Neville Williams, 
and many others) separated on our arrival at Bar- 
bados. 

Our host's wine-chest had been invaded to good 
purpose ; every one was in high spirits, as a relief 
from the tension of the preceding week. 

Sir Alfred's reply was entirely characteristic, force- 
ful and optimistic ; his faith, despite any check, was 
unshaken. We must go forward on the line of our 
destiny, and realise our great heritage in the West 
Indies. It was like a lightning flash of Titanic 

269 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

generalship. Sir Alfred made his hearers feel that, 
earthquake or no earthquake, the gods themselves 
were on our side, and that Jamaica was their pet 
child, and ours. Surely that is the spirit that moves 
mountains. 

An hour or two later, at the club-house at 
Bridgetown, we read the cables from London. 
The King, with characteristic generosity and 
promptitude, had inaugurated a Mansion House 
Fund with a gift of 1000 guineas, and the Queen 
and the Prince and Princess of Wales were not 
less kind and generous in their sympathy. 

" 1 am commanded by the King," read the 
message to the Governor, "to request you to ex- 
press to the inhabitants of Kingston the horror 
with which his Majesty and her Majesty the Queen 
have learnt of the terrible catastrophe which has 
befallen that town, with the loss of so many lives, 
and the deep sympathy of their Majesties with the 
sufferers, and with the relatives of those who have 
been killed." 

The Prince of Wales cabled : " The Princess 
and I are greatly shocked to hear of the earth- 
quake, and desire to express our deepest sympathy 
with the inhabitants and the sufferers." 

Canada, too, was ready to lend willing help. 
" Shall be grateful to you if you will convey to the 
people of Kingston, at request of my Ministers," 
was the message of the Governor- General of the 
Dominion, "an expression of their profoundest 
sympathy and of their anxiety to render assistance 
in any way that may be immediately required." 

With memories of Mont Peleeand the sympathy 
of England in that terrible disaster to the neigh- 
bouring French colony of Martinique, President 
Fallieres cabled to King Edward an expression of 
the sorrow of the French people. " I wish par- 

270 



THE PORT KINGSTON SAILS 

ticularly to express to your Majesty my heartfelt 
condolence on the sad event that has befallen your 
beautiful colony of Jamaica, and my sincere sym- 
pathy with the families of the victims." 

King Edward's reply was : " I thank you most 
sincerely, Monsieur le President, for your kind 
telegram, and I am deeply touched by the sympathy 
you express with me on the occasion of the terrible 
misfortune which has befallen my colony of 
Jamaica." Fresh from the scene of desolation it 
was only with eye bedim med with emotion that we 
could read these simple touching tributes. 

There were messages, too, from the British 
Premier, Sir Henry Campbell-Bannerman, from 
Lord Elgin and others, expressions of gratitude to 
the American people, the thanks of Sir Edward 
Grey and Mr. Haldane on behalf of the British 
Government to the Government of Washington, 
blank bewilderment at the news that American aid 
had been sought and declined, and positive dismay 
over the terms employed in the Governor's letter 
to the Admiral. 

We learned, too, that the Americans were not 
allowed to draw up their anchors without the citi- 
zens of Kingston making some effort to convince 
Admiral Davis that the Governor did not speak 
their minds. 

Mr. C. W. Tait, the Mayor of Kingston, was too 
seriously injured to attend any meeting. The 
Council, therefore, assembled at the Mayor's bed- 
side, and the following pathetic appeal was drawn 
up and signed : 

Kingston, January 19, 1907. 
" Rear- Admiral Davis, U.S.N. 

" Sir, On behalf of the Mayor and Council as 
well as all the citizens of this stricken city, I desire 

271 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

to express my deep and sincere regret that any un- 
pleasantness should have arisen to cause you to 
decide to withdraw the valuable assistance which 
you have voluntarily and so generously been render- 
ing to this country and my unfortunate fellow 
citizens. 

" Whatever may have been the cause that has 
induced you to decide to withdraw we deeply regret 
it, and we do not approve or take any part in it ; 
so we ask you not to withdraw your valuable assist- 
ance or take offence at the conduct of one man, if, 
at a time when overwrought by responsibility and 
calamity, he has acted in a manner that he himself 
will regret on reflection ; and in particular I ask 
you not to let the sick, wounded and destitute call 
in vain for the comfort which until now they have 
been receiving from your hands, and for which I 
and they thank and bless you. 

" I have the honour to be, sir, 
" Your obedient servant, 

" C. W. TAIT, Mayor of Kingston." 

The Admiral's reply was interesting but dis- 
ingenuous : 

U.S.S. Missouri, Kingston, Ja.* 
January 19, 1907. 

" Sir, Your Hon.'s communication of this date 
in the name of yourself and Council, as well as all 
the citizens of Kingston, is received. 

I beg that you will understand that I am 
not withdrawing my squadron from Kingston 
by reason of any unpleasantness, any misunder- 
standing, or any cause of offence. I came here 
to render first and immediate aid. 1 could only 
remain for a few days, and within that time I 
have done all that lay within my power to do, 

* Comparing the version published by Sir Frank Swettenham with 

272 



THE PORT KINGSTON SAILS 

and all that the representatives 1 of His Majesty's 
Government have 2 required of me. As a foreign 
naval officer, I am bound to respect the wishes 
and requirements of the supreme authority of 
this 3 island. I have left an emergency hospital 
at Winchester Park in what I believe to be 
good working order under the supervision of the 
American Jesuit Fathers. If I were to remain 
indefinitely there would, I know, be an abundance 
of work for me to do, but under the circumstances, 
having fulfilled the object of my mission, viz., to 
render first and immediate aid, my duties oblige 
me to withdraw. 

" I am particularly anxious to remove the im- 
pression that there has been any misunderstanding 
between myself and the constituted authorities 4 of 
Jamaica, and sincerely believe that the work of 
restoration will progress, and I express to you my 
wish that your city may 5 rise again from its ruins 
and find its former prosperity. 

" I thank you for your expressions 6 of apprecia- 
tion of such services as my officers and men 7 have 
been able to render, and I have the honour to be, 
with great respect, 

" Your Honour's obedient servant 

" C. H. DAVIS, 
Rear Admiral Com, Detached Squadron U.S.A." 

This is a remarkable letter chiefly because it 
says two things at the same time. Admiral Davis 
makes a well-intentioned effort to disavow the 

the text as it appeared in the Gleaner, the week after the earthquake, 
I note the following changes (all of them unimportant save the 
first) : 

1 representatire 4 authority 

2 has 5 may again 

3 the 6 expression 

7 " and men " omitted. 

273 S 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

assertion that he has received cause of offence, 
indeed he says he had " fulfilled " the object of his 
mission. If he had completed his task, why was it 
necessary to add the qualification " under the cir- 
cumstances " ? That there were limitations to the 
service he was enabled to render is shown in the 
words, " I have done all that lay in my power to 
do, and all that the representative of His Majesty's 
Government has required (!) of me." Whether 
the and should be " or " matters not. It is clear 
he would have done more or he would not have 
written " as a foreign naval officer I am bound to 
respect the wishes and requirements of the supreme 
authority of this island," otherwise the Governor 
would have had no occasion to state his " require- 
ments." 

In a word, the letter is the letter of a diplomatist, 
soothing and conciliatory, but none the less capable 
of two entirely distinct interpretations. 

Sir Frank Swettenham, in a lengthy communica- 
tion to the Times (July 20, 1907), that is praise- 
worthy only on account of its fraternal loyalty, 
seems to set great store by this letter. It forms 
at best a two-edged weapon in defence, its indirect 
revelations as a basis of indictment are obvious in 
every line. It remained, however, for Sir Frank 
Swettenham to remind us that Admiral Davis was 
not immaculate ; indeed, he was guilty of a most 
flagrant sin he forgot on arrival at a British port 
" Colonial Office Regulation No. 209." 

I find it difficult to appreciate seriously the 
official mind that can quibble over salutes in the 
face of a city lying in ruins, with the noisome fires 
of the burning dead still visible in its streets, and 
the whole atmosphere charged with an odour that 
is unspeakable. I find it difficult to appreciate the 
official mind that can remember pop-guns that did 

274 



THE PORT KINGSTON SAILS 

not go off, and forget lives slipping away in the 
awful gloom of a living tomb. " Necessary work 
was left undone" is the testimony of the special 
correspondent of the Times, a man of high purpose 
and unflinching integrity, and "that there were 
hands willing to do it is undoubted." No wonder, 
then, I find it impossible to treat with proper 
gravity a defence so unworthy of a brother, so 
feeble, and so cruel. 

To some extent Sir Frank Swettenham seeks to 
disarm criticism by the plea that he has ascertained 
his facts " with great difficulty, and only very 
recently." His difficulty, or his industry, may be 
judged by one statement he has not correctly 
ascertained the date of the earthquake. 

It is too much for me to hope that I can have 
provided a controversialist of such discretion with 
any first-hand information or the basis of any revi- 
sion of judgment. But I am entitled to question 
if he will disparage the determined, immovable 
attitude of the British Colonial Office in this 
matter, and of Lord Elgin in particular, until he 
shows that the late Governor appreciated the situa- 
tion with which he was called upon to deal though 
his " courage " and " devotion " were undoubted, 
and rightly bore recognition in the King's Speech 
that the American aid, medical, surgical, and 
otherwise, was neither sought nor needed ; that the 
late Governor did not avail himself of the services 
of armed men of the American squadron ; and that 
Sir Alexander Swettenham's letter to Admiral 
Davis was nothing more nor less than a model of 
courteous, diplomatic usage. 

A fresh touch of pathos was soon added to the 
correspondence. Mr. Tait did not long survive, 
his name being added shortly afterwards to the 
daily lengthening roll of victims. 

275 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

But the most significant of all the cabled mes- 
sages read by us that afternoon at Barbados was 
also the briefest : 

"The Missouri and Indiana have left Kings- 
ton." 

Thus terminated the historic " incident." 



276 



XXXVII 
THE PORT KINGSTON'S RETURN 

THE news that reached us over the cables in the 
club-house at Bridgetown, Barbados, on the after- 
noon of Monday, January 21, filled most of us with 
very conflicting enactions. 

It was with a natural sense of affection and pride 
of Empire and race that we heard of the King's 
keen and ready sympathy with the desolated and 
homeless citizens of Kingston, of his Majesty's gift 
of 1000, of the opening of a Mansion House 
Fund, to which the City, true to its high traditions, 
had already contributed a generous sum, of donations 
despatched from communities far and wide, of 
sister colonies subscribing (largely, in some in- 
stances, out of slender means) ; and, not least in 
importance, of the whole-hearted gratitude already 
expressed by the British Government to the 
Government of the United States for the hand 
of succour so promptly held out to our stricken 
colony. 

But what were we to make of the trenchant 
criticism of the action of the Governor ? of the 
acrimonious outburst arising from his rejection of 
all aid, and the sense of dismay created by his 
letter to the Admiral ? We saw that the breach 
was past all healing, for now we heard that 
Admiral Davis had drawn up his anchor and sailed 

277 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

away, as the only possible answer to the hauteur 
with which his good offices had been received. 

There was no mistaking the spirit animating the 
authority at Kingston. The last act of the pitiful 
drama was the arrival of an entire shipload of sup- 
plies, the personal gift of President Roosevelt. 
This ship, the Celtic, on reaching Kingston, learned 
that all American aid had been declined. She also 
received at the hands of the American Vice-Consul 
the instructions of Admiral Davis to return to the 
port in Cuba from which a day or two before she 
had started so readily on her mission of mercy. 

It is not difficult to understand the feeling 
created in the minds of loyal, earnest, self-sacri- 
ficing Jamaicans as the details of this seemingly 
cruel drama were unfolded before their eyes. As 
1 write I see strewn about my desk, covering 
chairs and floor, letters and newspapers, each re- 
counting some incident or point of view. Taken 
together, they continue the history of Jamaica 
from the hour I left the Colony. 

The newspapers were silenced by the disaster. 
Within five days, however, the Gleaner appeared, 
foolscap size, " printed by kind permission at the 
Government Printing Office." I see recorded the 
looting of between six and seven hundred bags of 
rice from one lock-up store, with the comment 
that " this does not speak well for the efficiency of 
the protection provided by the authorities ; and 
when it is considered that American assistance 
was refused, the situation is even more deplor- 
able." 

In the Jamaica Daily Telegraph, which also 
quickly regained its voice, I read with a sense of 
shame the petty humiliation to which it appears 
Admiral Davis was subjected prior to his official 
leave-taking. I must make deductions from a 

278 



THE PORT KINGSTON'S RETURN 

newspaper account produced in these days of 
bewilderment, and refuse to believe that any lesser 
Colonial Government official, however humble or 
undistinguished, could be wanting in manners to a 
gentleman of such distinction and courtier-like 
bearing, no less than a naval commander of a 
friendly foreign Power. 

But how could the Governor command respect 
and preserve authority amid all the seething dis- 
content or distrust of a white and black population, 
where a newspaper could publish a leading article 
such as appeared in the Daily Telegraph of Kings- 
ton a little more than a week after the disaster. 

The writer bears willing testimony to the Gover- 
nor's energy and the goodness of his intentions, which 
no sane man could ever have questioned, but asks if 
his Excellency's general behaviour in a moment of 
great peril has been worthy of a responsible British 
official, or even of a cultured English gentleman. 
A technical blunder was admittedly committed by 
the American Admiral, but why adopt an insulting 
attitude to him in a letter " also brimful of insults 
to the most prominent men in Kingston " ? 

The newspaper goes on : "The Governor's conduct 
is absolutely reprehensible, and as inexplicable as it 
is reprehensible. Indeed, it affords conclusive proof 
that he is not the man who is wanted in Jamaica 
at the present crisis. We want a calm, strong, 
controlling mind to direct operations a man who 
will not spend his time and waste his energy in 
cavorting round the city damning and swearing at 
officials who are endeavouring to do their work in 
a zealous and loyal manner, and humiliating even 
heads of departments in the presence of their sub- 
ordinates. We admit that His Excellency has been 
working hard, and that he is animated by the best 
of motives. But he has apparently not been able 

279 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

to maintain self-control during a critical ordeal, and 
he is perpetually making the mistake of thinking 
that he is the only wise man in the community. If 
he were to learn to bridle his tongue, and also his 
pen, and to sit down quietly at Headquarters House, 
issuing orders aid necessary reports, he would find 
that there is no lack of able and devoted assistance 
at hand, and he might yet be able to recover his 
reputation. But the people of this community 
(with possibly a few exceptions) have lost con- 
fidence in his powers of guidance, and are indignant 
at his autocratic bullying and insulting manner." 

How the Governor submitted to language like 
this perplexes me. If it were unjustified he was 
entitled, 1 think, in the interests of peace and good 
government, to suppress without a moment's hesi- 
tation such a publication at such a time. If it were 
true, then Jamaica wanted some other head in the 
piping times of peace no less than at a period of 
crisis. 

But that there is another side to this picture 
must have been evident to every one who will recall 
the paean of praise that went up the moment the 
Port Kingston touched the docks at Avonmouth. 

Sir Alfred Jones declared emphatically that it was 
cruel that the Governor should have been so bitterly 
criticised at a moment when he needed all the 
sympathy and support that could be extended to 
him. J\Jr. Jesse Collings had fact and sound argu- 
ment to show that the Governor was unsparing in 
his personal efforts to cope with the situation. It 
remained, however, to Mr. Hamar Greenwood, a 
lawyer by profession and a Member of Parliament, 
to realise the situation in phrasing that suggests the 
hustings in its unmeasured invective. 

" There were a few acts of petty larceny, a little 
rice and a little tobacco taken from broken down 

280 



v CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

to maintain self-control during a critical ordeal, and 
he is perpetually making the mistake of thinking 
that he is the only wise man in the community. If 
he were to learn to bridle his tongue, and also his 
pen, and to sit down quietly at Headquarters House, 
issuing orders and necessary reports, he would find 
that there is no lack of able and devoted assistance 
at hand, and he might yet be able to recover his 
reputation. But the people of this community 
(with possibly a few exceptions) have lost 
e in his powers of guidance, and are ir 



government, to suppu 

tation such a publication at such , If it 

true, then Jamaica wanted some other head in tl." 

piping times of peace no less than at a period of 

crisis. 

But that there is another side to this picture 
must have been evident to every one who will recall 
the psean of praise that went up the moment the 
Port Kingston touched the docks at Avonmouth. 

Sir Alfred Jones declared emphatically that it was 
cruel that the Govern* been so bitterly 

criticised at u needed all x the 

sympathy and sup: ,<1 be extended to 

hun. Mr. Jesse C v I fai > ^ound argu- 

ment to show that tli unsparing 'in 

his personal efforts toco th ; nation. It 

remained, however, to Mr. Ilainar Greenwood, a 
lawyer by profession and a Member of Parliament , 
to realise the situation in phrasing that suggests the 
hustings in its unmeasured invective. 

" There were a few acts of petty larceny, a li 
rice and a little tobacco tuken from broken down 

280 



THE PORT KINGSTON'S RETURN 

shops." (The " little rice " consisted, according to 
the Gleaner, in one instance alone, of 600 or 700 
bags ! The " little tobacco " consisted of thousands 
of boxes of cigars from the wreckage of one fac- 
tory.) Mr. Greenwood quite properly " takes off 
his hat " to the Governor, but this simple act of 
courtesy, reserved apparently for rare occasions and 
such as are of high dignity, is sadly diminished in 
value and significance, when we find him speaking 
of the criticism of " the tone and diction" of the 
Governor's letter to the American Admiral as 
" puerile." It " is simply the latest case of the 
criticism of the strong men in the firing line by the 
fool in the armchair at home." (I wonder how 
Lord Elgin and Mr. Winston Churchill appreciated 
that delightful piece of candid opinion from a poli- 
tical comrade Mr. Greenwood did not know at 
that moment how rapidly was history in the 
making. ) 

A superb sentence to close : " Is it come to 
this, that the might and majesty of the British 
Empire is to be prostituted to an outburst of 
Yankee bosh ? " 

What can this mean ? Can this " outburst" be 
a veiled allusion to the three warships laden with 
medical comforts and supplies that hastened to the 
succour of a city stricken by earthquake ? Or has 
it some dark reference to the President's gifts that 
filled the hold of the Celtic ? Or was it the hand 
of succour held out by the Brotherhood League of 
California, or the willing funds and the ready service 
of the American ladies at the Titchfield Hotel ? Per- 
haps the " Yankee bosh " was the judgment of the 
American press that neither apology nor explana- 
tion was wanting from the British people for the 
act of declining all aid at such a moment of need 
while the reading public of the world possessed a 

281 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

letter that explained all ! But enough ! Mr. 
Greenwood's rejoinder was at best worse than 
mere silliness, it was bad manners. 

Mr. Henniker-Heaton, M.P., in more sober argu- 
ment, declared his conviction that there would have 
been a riot among the negroes if the American 
armed force had remained on land for forty-eight 
hours ! Are we, then, to suppose that the negro 
of Jamaica is quite so den^e as to bite the hand 
that dressed his wounds ? 

And further, " Letters were written, unwise 
letters and letters never intended for publication, 
and I have no excuse for them." What letters 
are referred to ? I know of one letter only that I 
wish had never been written, and I have searched 
in vain in the letter to which it was a reply for any 
word that would justify the spirit of its rejoinder. 

Mr. Henniker Heaton yields to no one in respect 
for the people of the United States, among whom 
are his greatest personal friends, and his final word 
is : "It is most deplorable, and I am heartily glad 
peace was made with the United States authorities, 
who, I believe, have no designs on our possessions 
in the West Indies." 

This idea, however, that the correspondence 
between his Excellency and the Admiral was 
" private," and that Admiral Davis was guilty of 
a grave breach of etiquette in disclosing its terms, 
is surely founded on an entire misconception of the 
circumstance. Agencies of the United States, 
official and otherwise, hastened to the rescue of a 
city stricken by earthquake, of a people who were 
subjects of a foreign power, united to theirs by the 
ties of goodwill, race and religion. In the pursuit 
of that act of mercy, the American Government 
expended in ships and supplies a large sum of 
money ; and Admiral Davis had no more right to 

282 



THE PORT KINGSTON'S RETURN 

consider his mission " private " than he had to 
deem the refusal with which it was met as " con- 
fidential." It was a public service " in the cause of 
our common humanity," as he said both in his 
official letter and in his conversation with me, and 
it was no part of his duty to keep secret a corre- 
spondence that belonged to us next after the people 
of his own country. 

The real danger of the position becomes apparent 
when we seek to imagine the conflict that would or 
might have arisen between two strong men had 
Admiral Evans come himself instead of delegating 
the duty to Admiral Davis. " Fighting Bob " is 
deservedly the idol of the American people, as he 
is the idol of all his men, filling in their hearts and 
imagination a niche we reserve for our own breezy 
and indomitable Lord Charles Beresford. The story 
of his adventurous life is fuller of thrills than the 
most exciting romance of fiction. 

Would Admiral Evans have retired on any mere 
pretext of custom or diplomatic usage while lives 
were ebbing away amid all the agonising horror of 
a living tomb ? Or would he have brushed aside 
all idle letter- writ ing while the cry of the helpless 
and entombed resounded about the very vault of 
heaven. True, armed men might have been re- 
called, but the work of rescue of dead, dying, or 
merely injured would have suffered no check. 

There are moments when even the most lofty 
ideals of patriotism lapse into insignificance: when 
even "Colonial Office Regulation No. 209" does 
not apply ; when humanity is one family. Surely 
this was such a moment. And Admiral Evans 
would have left that service in the cause of our 
common humanity to speak for itself to the heart 
of our King, and the hearts of the English people 
everywhere, no less than the people of his own land. 

283 



CRUISE OF THE PORT KINGSTON 

What the harvest of living might have been we 
can never know. All we know is that though " all 
the dead died days ago," a certain number of people 
did come out alive on Thursday, January 17, the day 
of the arrival of the warships, and that they still 
live to tell their agonising tale of a living tomb. 

The " eye-witness's narrative " that appeared in 
the Times (alongside a briefer but equally lucid 
statement of fact in the form of a letter from Mr. 
Ebenezer Carr, who was making a tour of the 
island in the company of my friend, Mr. Alderman 
Adnitt, of Northampton) on the day following the 
return of the Port Kingston, was I believe I am 
disclosing no secret from the pen of the Right 
Hon. H. O. Arnold-Forster, M.P. It bears evidence 
of the scrupulous fairness of the writer's judgment, 
and I have already laid it under contribution. With- 
out knowing, however, the wide services Admiral 
Davis wished to render, Mr. Arnold-Forster wrote : 

*' Jamaica is a very hot-bed of idle rumours and 
unfounded stories, and it is not to be wondered at 
that the rumour of disorder should have spread in 
circumstances in which disorder might reasonably 
be anticipated. Nevertheless, the landing of the 
United States marines was an error ; an error which, 
unless I am greatly misinformed, was due to a mis- 
conception of his duties by a subordinate, and not 
to the act of the Governor, who, on learning what 
had taken place, lost not a moment in thanking 
Admiral Davis for his prompt and friendly action, 
and requesting him to withdraw an armed force for 
whose services there was no use whatever." 

It would seem that the " eye-witness " had only 
one idea of the object of the American marines 
that of saving white women from" disorderly" 
blacks. But that there was, or that there had been, 
work to do in the stricken city of an altogether 

284 



THE PORT KINGSTON'S RETURN 

different character is borne out by an earlier para- 
graph : 

" In the opinion of some persons, it would have 
been well if immediate application had been made 
to the willing men who passed the twenty-four 
hours in enforced inaction at Constant Spring, and 
if parties had been formed for an immediate and 
systematic search of the ruins before the advancing 
fire made all efforts useless. It is undoubtedly the 
fact that many persons were burnt to death in the 
absence of organised rescue parties, and it is possible 
that among the many men available, of whom 
nearly all had some experience in organisation or 
command, the nucleus of such search parties might 
have been formed. It is easy, however, to be wise 
after the event. The Governor displayed great 
courage and untiring energy, and much admirable 
work was done. But that, for a time, there was 
necessary work left undone, and that there were 
hands willing to do it, is undoubted" 

Surely no words contain a more emphatic justifi- 
cation for accepting the aid of the Americans, as 
well as that of those capable Englishmen on the 
spot, from the moment of the calamity. 

Public opinion in England, howeve